Aftermarket Stereo Setup

[SoCal4Run]

I know it's been covered, and to search and read, which was done. But I'm not finding some of the answers I'm looking for and need some help deciding.

Let me start my saying I have the SR5 Premium package, with navigation. Standard 8 speaker package. No amp/subwoofer.

First, I'm trying to find what power is coming out of the stock Entune head unit to power the speakers so I can properly match up new speaker requirements. Here's what I was thinking of doing to keep the cost somewhat down at this point. Don't really need boomy bass, just something that hits nice and clean when the volume is turned up.

Thinking about getting 6.5" componenets for the front door and putting the tweeters up in the dash and getting new 6.5 coaxials for the rear door with the Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub (hoping this might fit under a seat???). See link below.

Any thoughts to this? Should I just get 3.5 coaxials for dash and 6.5 coaxials for front door and not do components? What are plus/minus of those options?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/hideaway-8-subwoofer-with-enclosure-and-integrated-150w-amplifier/3526208.p?id=1218410279361&skuId=3526208&st=categoryid$pcmcat223300050038&cp=1&lp=2

 

[Auntie Soshul]

The choice of components vs coaxials is a matter of personal preference, I feel. But if you're keeping the stock head unit, it will work out best if your new speakers have a high efficiency rating - around 92 db, regardless of the type of speaker. It will require more power (amp) for low efficiency speakers.

I replaced all 8 speakers in my SR5 (non-nav) and the sound is great. I used all coaxials except for the Kappas in the dash.

What will you feed the powered bass unit with? The unused speaker leads? I'm asking because I've toyed with doing something similar. You may want to check Antman's thread - I believe he added a powered bass unit, but it may not be the same model you have in mind.

 

[SoCal4Run]

The choice of components vs coaxials is a matter of personal preference, I feel. But if you're keeping the stock head unit, it will work out best if your new speakers have a high efficiency rating - around 92 db, regardless of the type of speaker. It will require more power (amp) for low efficiency speakers.

I replaced all 8 speakers in my SR5 (non-nav) and the sound is great. I used all coaxials except for the Kappas in the dash.

What will you feed the powered bass unit with? The unused speaker leads? I'm asking because I've toyed with doing something similar. You may want to check Antman's thread - I believe he added a powered bass unit, but it may not be the same model you have in mind.

So when looking for new speakers, I'm looking more for efficiency rating than RMS power? Not sure how to feed the powered bass. Maybe use feed from rear doors and not use those speakers? And from what I've read, it seems pointless to replace lift gate speakers, correct?

 

[TomT]

I'm in the same place as you SoCal, stock system leaves a LOT to be desired.

My current plan is a three way component system in the front with the woofers in the doors, midrange in the factory dash positions and tweeters on the A pillar. Most likely going with the Hertz HSK163 setup as I heard them at Beach Autosound and like them. My old truck had Dynaudio 3 ways so I'm a little spoiled and these came close for half the cost.

In my opinion the factory amp does not put out enough power to make putting in good speakers cost effective. I'm going with the JL Audio XD series amps. Good, clean power in a small footprint for not too much money.

Tom

 

[Auntie Soshul]

So when looking for new speakers, I'm looking more for efficiency rating than RMS power? Not sure how to feed the powered bass. Maybe use feed from rear doors and not use those speakers? And from what I've read, it seems pointless to replace lift gate speakers, correct?

Yes, if you're going to power the new speakers with the stock head unit. The stock head unit doesn't produce enough power to be concerned with RMS rating. The rear door speaker leads will be OK to feed the powered sub, but you'll have no sound in those speakers if they're disconnected, of course.

 

[fourrunner1]

not to change the subject, but I also was considering changing all speakers in my wifes four runner. I saw on one of the threads that there are four speaker wires going to each speaker, how do you hook up the new speakers without running new wiring? I've installed a aftermarket stereo in my tacoma, but that was head unit and all new wiring.

 

[SoCal4Run]

Ok, quick update to this. Got all my pieces delivered yesterday and hopefully installed soon. Here is what I'm going with:

Alpine Type-S components in front with tweeter in the dash along with another pair in the 2nd row doors. All four powered by a JL JX360/4 amp. RMS for speakers is 80W and RMS per channel for amp is 70W @ 4ohms.

In custom built box (not yet determined how or where), I will have a JL 10W03V sub paired with a JL JX500/1D amp to power it.

Like I said above, trying to figure out the box still since I have a third row. Will probably go with some type of thin wedge to fit between door and third row when up. Will be annoying when trying to put stuff in the back, but I don't want to lose the third row capability. And I think this sub is meant for shallower enclosures anyway. Any thoughts?

 

[gdmaddog]

This was the solution to the subwoofer placement issue I had. I didn't want a huge box held down by straps. I used a local sound shop to create this custom enclosure for an 8" sub. Its driven by a nice Phoenix Gold RX600.5 amp under the driver seat. It's a custom fiberglass enclosure. My installer has a template for it in case anyone in the Las Vegas metro area is interested in having one done. This provides plenty of thump and doesn't impact the space in the cargo area at all.

 

[Logan714]

This was the solution to the subwoofer placement issue I had. I didn't want a huge box held down by straps. I used a local sound shop to create this custom enclosure for an 8" sub. Its driven by a nice Phoenix Gold RX600.5 amp under the driver seat. It's a custom fiberglass enclosure. My installer has a template for it in case anyone in the Las Vegas metro area is interested in having one done. This provides plenty of thump and doesn't impact the space in the cargo area at all.

View attachment 142222

How's that working out for you? Looked at having something like that done a few years ago but the shop said there wasn't enough air space behind it for an 8" sub and ended up building a custom enclosure for a 6" in front of the power outlets back there where the D ring sits.

 

[gdmaddog]

I am happy with the sound and location of the sub. I discussed the merits of a sealed sub vs. a ported one. This is a sealed set up. The bass is tight and thumpy which is perfect for my rock and country music listening. Down the road if I decide to go with a larger sub we would bump that panel out and make it more flush with the wheel well to incorporate a 10" driver. For now I am beyond pleased. The finished system is light years ahead of the factory system. :guitar3:

 

[SoCal4Run]

So I recently had some audio equipment installed by a buddy. The following is what was installed:

- Alpine SPS-610c components in front and rear doors powered by JL Audio JX360/4 amp

- JL Audio 10wov3 Sub powered by JL JX500/1d amp.

So I was trying to fine tune things today. I set the gains using the multimeter procedure as detailed in the JL manual. However, it just doesn't seem right. There is a low buzz coming from the speakers with the music turned down low. Isn't there when I turn it up. Also, it seems like the speakers get too loud too fast and overpower the sub now.

So now I'm trying to figure out what to do. Do I just turn down the gains on the speakers until the buzz is gone? Any better way to set/check the gain?