The Desert Rat
New member
Yep, MAF cleaner, that's what I just used on mine. It isn't that expensive and it works on all cars with a MAF sensor, of which I have several so a worthwhile investment.
Air box maintenance
- Thread starter csrobb007
- Start date
willis_bud2
New member
What speeds are we talking here???
I'm getting anywhere from 17 to 18.5mpg running 65-70mph on flat as board roadways in New Mexico. Just replaced the factory exhaust and cat with a magnaflow cat and the dynomax exhaust kit from summit racing. Also changed the O2 senser while I was at it. Haven't calculated with the new exhaust yet. Everything else is bone stock. Running on 31 x 10.50. I was happy with this but if yall are squeezing 18-20mpg out of these things it looks like I need to make a few more upgrades.
I'm getting anywhere from 17 to 18.5mpg running 65-70mph on flat as board roadways in New Mexico. Just replaced the factory exhaust and cat with a magnaflow cat and the dynomax exhaust kit from summit racing. Also changed the O2 senser while I was at it. Haven't calculated with the new exhaust yet. Everything else is bone stock. Running on 31 x 10.50. I was happy with this but if yall are squeezing 18-20mpg out of these things it looks like I need to make a few more upgrades.
TxUrbanRunner
New member
Very nice runner. I have a 95 3.0 auto 2wd. My daily curb hopper that gets about 18 on the highway. Where did you get the hood?
the great him
Elite Member
im very doubtful of your claim of 27mpg, for one those larger tires are not helping matter, not to mention that they are toyo MTs, probably the heaviest mud tire made, in a 285 70 17, they are almost 10lbs heavier than its closet competitor and more than 10lbs heavier than most mud tires. besides if you are doing that much hwy driving why are you running mud tires, they are heavier and have much greater rolling resistance than say a hwy tire. im sure if you just simply switched to a smaller(stock size) all terrain or heaven forbid hwy tire you would see your "30mpg" you are looking for. if you want to keep your mud tires then sure, keep them, but only use them for offroading, and not your long drives to yakastan... just my .02
csrobb007
New member
One at a time..."Tx.." The hood is stock other than a scoop I molded to the sheet metal prior to paint...don't know what kind, just a cast off that was sitting in the shop on a shelf. Set back about three inches from the rear of the hood, and accually two holes in the sheet metal so as to not remove any of the structure or stiffness.
"Idd...and Kid"...The tire thing is simple, The tires are off my old Suburban, again, in the corner of the shop and useable...the price was right. As far as "why"...I live at almost 4500 ft elevation and travel at over 5500 in my trips to Yakima. We will start seeing regular and long lasting snow prior to Thanksgiving and it will last until March.
Muffler...Flowmaster is a proven product that makes power and better flow numbers without the exhaust sounding like sh*t...simple on that one, besides the fact that I pay almost half of list through my suppliers. (36 to 45 bucks each)
The tires are a ten ply tire (a little rough...but it's a truck, not a car) and I run them at 50psi for less rolling resistance.
As far as the "claims" of mileage...I think we've been through this before...If I wanted to waste my time cooking up some bull**** story...I'd pick a more exciting subject...you can believe it, or not...it's your call. All I know is I go at things methotically, and one change at a time, keeping a very close eye on the results, trying not to reinvent the wheel so to speak. I've been building street rods for almost twenty years now, and some of the tech flows over to this truck, some doesn't...I'm just looking for solid bang for the buck given I spend almost eight hundred dollars a month in travel, and with gas prices not going down any...why not look for ways to save a little.
"Idd...and Kid"...The tire thing is simple, The tires are off my old Suburban, again, in the corner of the shop and useable...the price was right. As far as "why"...I live at almost 4500 ft elevation and travel at over 5500 in my trips to Yakima. We will start seeing regular and long lasting snow prior to Thanksgiving and it will last until March.
Muffler...Flowmaster is a proven product that makes power and better flow numbers without the exhaust sounding like sh*t...simple on that one, besides the fact that I pay almost half of list through my suppliers. (36 to 45 bucks each)
The tires are a ten ply tire (a little rough...but it's a truck, not a car) and I run them at 50psi for less rolling resistance.
As far as the "claims" of mileage...I think we've been through this before...If I wanted to waste my time cooking up some bull**** story...I'd pick a more exciting subject...you can believe it, or not...it's your call. All I know is I go at things methotically, and one change at a time, keeping a very close eye on the results, trying not to reinvent the wheel so to speak. I've been building street rods for almost twenty years now, and some of the tech flows over to this truck, some doesn't...I'm just looking for solid bang for the buck given I spend almost eight hundred dollars a month in travel, and with gas prices not going down any...why not look for ways to save a little.
the great him
Elite Member
dont get me wrong im not trying to bash you or call you a lier, its just very hard to believe, but hell if you are pulling that kinda mileage then great for you, and yes im with you on if you were trying to blow smoke up our a$$s youd think of something better than mpgs...
but still as soon as you can lose those toyo MTs, they are holding you back, get some good ATs that are snow rated and youll be fine hell get some goodyear dura tracs those things are great all around
but still as soon as you can lose those toyo MTs, they are holding you back, get some good ATs that are snow rated and youll be fine hell get some goodyear dura tracs those things are great all around
I don't think its about upgrades. I'm pretty much stock. I drive like a grandma, never faster than 65 (well almost never). I think 60 is the sweet spot. I buy non-ethanol Conoco plus gas every time. In my opinion, it is worth the extra 10 cents per gallon. Rig runs like crap with pretty much everything else. BTW a new O2 sensor did wonders for my rig. Gained 2mpg right away. Best 50 dollars I've spent in a while. Just switched to manual hubs too. I hear that can help, but I haven't filled the tank since I put them on, so I'm not sure yet.
the great him
Elite Member
i am, and i hate the "hooah", it makes us sound like "knuckle draggers" so i just say "H"(or "hate") ive implemented it into my team as well. i am an 11B, just found out there where other MOSs lol, funny i never knew ive been kicking the idea of going 18x though, we shall see.
on a side note, how are your running your intake tube, keeping it cold or at least cool? i know you said you kept it shielded from the exhaust manifold but what are you using? did you wrap your exhaust with that header wrap stuff or did you put a shield on your intake tube itself? ive been thinking i should shield my intake some how and when i do headers and a SC, im gonna wrap the headers and maybe put in a set of RunCool hood louvers to help suck the hot air out of the engine bay as well as make the sport hood functional. anyhow if you have some pics of what you have done id love to see how you have streamlined and simplified things as well as improved them
csrobb007
New member
The tube from the airbox to manifold is two piece (accually three with the box looking affair that will be removed). I just removed the heater or "warming" box from the path, hence "cooling" or in reality keeping the air cool. The box thing lays really close to the exhaust manifold and I'm assuming it's Toyotas way of pre-heating the incoming air charge...why, I don't know, but I looked at it as defeating the "cold air" intake. So the solution was a tube/path away from the manifold.
Simple rule of thumb I use, gained from an engineer at BDS superchargers is this...for every 10 degree drop in intake air temp...it's one free horsepower. Without getting into air density/moisture and other issues involved...suffice to say that the colder the incoming air, the better...which is why we use "cold air" kits, intercoolers, etc.
Something to also keep in mind...instead of using header wrap, which will accually damage the manifold/header, consider ceramic coating(s). The initial cost of ceramic may seem expensive, but by the time you buy the wrap, destroy the part, then have to replace it...and then coat it...it's pretty cheap. The theory behind coating (or wraping) an exhaust component, is to keep the air inside the header (or whatever) hot, and therefore easier to move...not so much keeping the air around the component cool (although in a hooded vehicle it's a bonus) Cast iron manifolds are more suseptable to damage than tube headers because of the type of metal (cast versus forged or drawn) The heat contained within the wrap, will burn a certain ammount of the carbon out of the metal, create fatigue, and eventually break.
Anyway...i'll get some photos and let you decide.
Simple rule of thumb I use, gained from an engineer at BDS superchargers is this...for every 10 degree drop in intake air temp...it's one free horsepower. Without getting into air density/moisture and other issues involved...suffice to say that the colder the incoming air, the better...which is why we use "cold air" kits, intercoolers, etc.
Something to also keep in mind...instead of using header wrap, which will accually damage the manifold/header, consider ceramic coating(s). The initial cost of ceramic may seem expensive, but by the time you buy the wrap, destroy the part, then have to replace it...and then coat it...it's pretty cheap. The theory behind coating (or wraping) an exhaust component, is to keep the air inside the header (or whatever) hot, and therefore easier to move...not so much keeping the air around the component cool (although in a hooded vehicle it's a bonus) Cast iron manifolds are more suseptable to damage than tube headers because of the type of metal (cast versus forged or drawn) The heat contained within the wrap, will burn a certain ammount of the carbon out of the metal, create fatigue, and eventually break.
Anyway...i'll get some photos and let you decide.
csrobb007
New member
Here's a pic of the tube from the airbox to the TB...it isn't pretty, but for a total cost of...oh yea, ZERO...it seems to work so far. When I get concrete data on the change, then mabey one bent from some solid tube...who knows.
All I did was remove the box that pre-heats the incoming air, and route the tube away from laying near the exhaust manifold.
All I did was remove the box that pre-heats the incoming air, and route the tube away from laying near the exhaust manifold.
Attachments
TxUrbanRunner
New member
TxUrbanRunner
New member
csrobb007 what did you cap the end of the upper hard plastic tube with after you turned it 90 degrees? Also the rubber line going to the drivers side valve cover what did you do with it also?
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csrobb007
New member
cap...2.5" cap I get on the ends of tubing I buy for the shop, put a little rtv on the inside and clamp it. Like I said in a previous post...this setup is temporary...I figured I would use what's there to see if any gains were to be had before spending money on tubing, fittings, and the rest of the stuff to do it pretty.
