Air conditioning not cooling at idle

100% is the alternator, happened to me in the past

Given my present situation with a 2015 Tacoma PreRunner 4.0L, I find this comment interesting.
Dealer replaced A/C compressor. I told them before the swap that would not solve my problem and it's not at all like Jeremy's.
They made the swap - still having an issue.
It's the alternator - but dealer says no - they are supposedly bringing in a Toyota Field Technical Specialist.
I'm waiting for the phone to ring.
 
I thought I added a comment here last night...

I was going to suggest a sanity check with the alternator possibly not putting out enough juice at low rpm to engage the compressor clutch properly.

You can test the output with a meter.. but also maybe just jumper the battery from another running vehicle to see if the cooling is impacted. Worth a quick try since it would be so easy to do.
 
When sitting still, at idle, the A/C will only cool to about 8-10f degrees below ambient temp at 100f. Vent air temperature will climb from 42 to 90 degrees f at a rate of about 1 degree per 5 seconds when set on max fan speed and non-rec, setting rec slows the temp increase by about 3-4 times. Pressure on low and high side go up and off the gauge when this happens.
I don't see how a faulty clutch would cause high high side pressure.

A bad clutch would slip and lead to high low pressure and low high pressure.
 
Don't think it is the alternator. At idle, with minimal load, voltage is 13.8 steady. With A/C fan on highest, defrosters on, radio blasting, high beams on, voltage fluctuates from 13.58 to 13.7.

I installed a pusher fan today (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/218460-5th-gen-auxiliary-fan.html). I still need to wire it up to my relay and find a spot to tap into the compressor on circuit to trigger it until my temperature switch arrives.

I did an initial test by starting up the engine and letting the A/C cool as low as it would go, then waiting for the temps to creep back up. After jumping the fan to the battery, the vent temps dropped from 80 to 44 in a about 8-10 minutes. Gauges went from 80/400 when I turned the fan on to 32/220 within about 45 seconds and stayed there.

It looks like this should be an effective workaround until I can figure out the actual problem. I'm kind of leaning toward some sort of condenser obstruction at this point.
 
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I know this is a stupid question, but do you know if your A/C Machine counts line volume in it's calculation? Our old R134a machine is a bit dumb and now that we threw new lines on it, we've noticed she went from about .4 lbs in the lines to about .5lbs; so when charging you have to add .5lbs to the value to account for stuff in the lines otherwise the machine will underchange the vehicle.
I don't have a fancy machine, just a set of manifold gauges. The lines have valves on the ends, so the lines stay full of refrigerant. I figured volume by measuring the weight of the r134a cans and I am confident my fill volumes are within the specs of 550 +/-30 g
 
Definitely an airflow issue over the condenser or possibly an internal restriction in the condenser. I don't see how an alternator could possibly cause this problem since the cause of your poor cooling is compressor shut off due to high side pressure being excessive. As mentioned previously a faulty alternator would cause the AC compressor clutch to slip therefore causing low pressure. A slipping magnetic clutch on the compressor would also cause abnormal noise and failure within a very short period of time that would not allow the compressor to engage at all.

Your previous test of spraying down the condenser with a hose resulting in normal performance also confirms that it is a condenser heat exchange issue.
 
Jeremy556 - did you ever determine the cause of your problem?

Not yet. The condenser fan is good enough for it to maintain low to mid 40s vent temps when on recirculate at 103 ambient, so I'll probably run it as is until it gets worse. Only thing I can think of is an internal condenser obstruction.
 
Troubleshoot gas charge using R143a Temp/ Pressure Chart (google is your friend)

I have the same problem, on 15TE recharged gas to spec 550grams, improved a little bit but still not as cool as it used to be. pressure readings are within spec as per the chart

You are on the right path the aux fan will definitely help, good luck and let us know please
 
When sitting still, at idle, the A/C will only cool to about 8-10f degrees below ambient temp at 100f. Vent air temperature will climb from 42 to 90 degrees f at a rate of about 1 degree per 5 seconds when set on max fan speed and non-rec, setting rec slows the temp increase by about 3-4 times. Pressure on low and high side go up and off the gauge when this happens.

At 1500rpm, sitting still, no problem, gauge readings are like 26/240, vent temp is 40-44f and the compressor cycles regularly, even at 103 ambient. I can coast down a very long hill for 30+ minutes at 15-30mph speeds with the engine in neutral, and maintain normal operation. So airflow over the condenser anywhere above idle speed from the radiator fan is enough.

These would lead me to suspect the fan clutch, however coolant temp never varies significantly (actual reading from Techstream, not the idiot gauge on the dash). I also can't stop the radiator fan when coolant temp is at operating temperature.

I have evacuated/charged and pulled vacuum between on the system twice, no change in operation or readings. It also held vacuum for over 12 hours, so no leaks.

Magnetic clutch on the compressor operates normally and all of the techstream active tests produce expected results, no stored codes.

I am pretty ignorant of cooling systems and am at a loss at this point. Hoping to avoid throwing parts at it until I find a fix, as many of these components are not cheap nor quick/easy to install.
I know this is 6 yrs ago. I'm curious if you got it fixed and what was the culprit?
 
^^^ The electric pusher fan helped me as well..

Ambient temps +125F in idle leads to quite poor AC performance before that.. even worse on the tacoma for some strange reason.

FYI The stock v6 4.0 Prado comes with electric pusher fans here standard.
 
Found the problem today. The simplest answer was the correct one - lack of airflow over the condenser.

For the last few weeks, I have noticed when sitting at idle, or at low speed with a tail wind, the coolant temps would climb near the red. Moving faster or revving the engine would make it cool back down.

The foam that is meant to seal the gap between the condenser and radiator had deteriorated and was allowing the fan to suck dirt and debris in between, causing the lack of airflow. I had already knocked a lot of it out before thinking to take a picture, but there was about a 1/8-3/4" thick cake of crap on top of the radiator in the approximate shape of then fan, not to mention the crap packed between all of the fins. I'm kind of amazed that I didn't have more/worse symptoms before now for how bad it was.

radiator.jpg
 
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OP - I know that you reported an electric fan was in the works earlier this yr.

A/C in 2015 Tacoma with the 4.0L engine does poorly idling in traffic.

Today at tacomaworld.com - 2nd Gen Forum - I learned that Toyota has come out with TSB 0034-18 supposedly for 2015 Tacoma 4.0L. It was reported at TW to have been released in May of this yr. - I have not read it - don't have access

See post #5 in this thread - FYI

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/bebop’s-texas-summer-a-c-thread.556250/

My wife drives the 4R - if it were weak I would have heard about it. If you haven't done the fan enhancement yet there might be some useful info in this Tacoma TSB.
 
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"...After jumping the fan to the battery, the vent temps dropped from 80 to 44 in a about 8-10 minutes. ...It looks like this should be an effective workaround until I can figure out the actual problem. I'm kind of leaning toward some sort of condenser obstruction at this point."

I hate sounding like a broken record, but again... when has (or has) the condenser been gently power washed (with "Mr Clean"); you'd be surprised how much 'dirt' (sand, dust, salt, 'calcium from rain') insulates the condenser coil fins/radiator, which diminishes the normal Heat rejection process! 'Best',

rig
 
Opps,

...guess you can ignore my last post; so glad that you found the trouble! 'Best to you and yours',

rig, cheers!
 
I had this same problem. Car blew cold when accelerating and warm when coasting and various temps at idle. Took my car to Toytoa and they too said it was the expansion valve failed. one way they confirm is they pull a vacuum, then refill and if they cant get all the gas in this means the valve is blocking part of the line. This ONLY happens when that valve is failed.
thermal expansion valve is located behind your glove compartment. First you must evacuate your AC refrigerant then proceed.

You should also replace your desiccant pack on the receiver/dryer when you do this job. its a long skinny desiccant pack. you can buy one in a service kit on rock auto More Information for FOUR SEASONS 10310SK

I bought a Denso expansion valve. i did not use the one that came in the service pack. It looks the same but its not. The Denso comes with its own 4 o-rings. The only thing i used from the service kit was the desiccant and the plug. The other parts are not OEM quality. More Information for DENSO 4752060

Follow this video http://https://www.youtube.com/shorts/M0sSlxSk0EI


or follow this video, even though i didnt remove my blower at all i followed the first video http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HUR6zxiabY&t=21s
 
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