Air Locker max air pressure for ARB

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I researched this on here a little but I am confused on the max pressure you can run to the solenoid and locker.
I looked at the instructions and they say min 90 max 105 but I called ARB this morning and the guy said 150 should be ok

On research I found this article
https://arbusa.wordpress.com/2011/05/25/air-locker-pressures/

can anyone let me know what they did?
Thanks
I researched this a lot when adding an air locker, and IIRC, the original 90psi quoted in the instructions was based on an old model of solenoid, so I threw out my expensive pressure regulator and just run the locker off my 115-135psi OBA system. So far, no problems here.
 
I researched this a lot when adding an air locker, and IIRC, the original 90psi quoted in the instructions was based on an old model of solenoid, so I threw out my expensive pressure regulator and just run the locker off my 115-135psi OBA system. So far, no problems here.

Thanks for the response I have 150-155psi will this make a difference?
 
Thanks for the response I have 150-155psi will this make a difference?

ARB says their new solenoid is good to 160, so probably fine. Is there a specific reason you run 150-155 or could you change pressure switches to run lower overall pressure? My compressors are rated higher than the pressure switch I run, but I really don't have any need for anything above 90psi.

In lots of pirate4x4 posts, people report running air lockers around 40 psi reliably.
 
ARB says their new solenoid is good to 160, so probably fine. Is there a specific reason you run 150-155 or could you change pressure switches to run lower overall pressure? My compressors are rated higher than the pressure switch I run, but I really don't have any need for anything above 90psi.

In lots of pirate4x4 posts, people report running air lockers around 40 psi reliably.

Huh
I never thought of lowering the pressure I just ran it as it came from viair
it should shut off at 150 though
just figuring warm up pressure increase
 
running mine off the 120 preset pressure switch on the twin arb compressor. My compressors leaky and the arb lockers design is allowing oil to work its way into the air lines. I'm replacing my second arb solenoid switch whenever it arrives in the mail. I can't say if they're failing due to pressure or oil in the lines or a combination of both.

Lockers seem to work though.
 
I have run arb's in a few Jeep applications (D30 and D44's) since the 90's, and have never operated them at anything over 50psi. Both of my applications have over 100,000 miles of operation. ARB always said to operate them at 90-100psi, but that never made sense to me. It just seems like a bad idea to be sending that much pressure to the locker, and hoping the seals stay intact.
 
running mine off the 120 preset pressure switch on the twin arb compressor. My compressors leaky and the arb lockers design is allowing oil to work its way into the air lines. I'm replacing my second arb solenoid switch whenever it arrives in the mail. I can't say if they're failing due to pressure or oil in the lines or a combination of both.

Lockers seem to work though.

Likely you are drawing a bit of gear oil through the seals when the ARB is turned off/vented. That's the only way oil can get into the solenoid. I would try turning the pressure down and see if it helps.

FYI... If it continues to be a problem, there are cheaper/better air solenoids than the ARB version. Mac Valves makes one for around $20. Do a search on 12vdc pneumatic valves.
 
Likely you are drawing a bit of gear oil through the seals when the ARB is turned off/vented. That's the only way oil can get into the solenoid. I would try turning the pressure down and see if it helps.

FYI... If it continues to be a problem, there are cheaper/better air solenoids than the ARB version. Mac Valves makes one for around $20. Do a search on 12vdc pneumatic valves.

Damnit I needed this info monday before I ordered another stupid ARB product. I paid 62 bucks at a trailer supply company for an ARB solenoid.

I suppose then I'm drawing a bit of gear oil through the seals for 90% of the carriers drive time because they don't get used on the road.. IMO I should be able to turn a selectable locker off and not have to worry about it causing issues like oil leaking into the air system. I had to get fittings to connect the exhaust ports of the solenoids to additional air line to run the oil to a better draining location.


I've questioned lowering the pressure before but that completely defeats any tire filling purposes of the on board air. Unless I purchased an additional regulator to regulate the pressure on the solenoids alone.
 
Damnit I needed this info monday before I ordered another stupid ARB product. I paid 62 bucks at a trailer supply company for an ARB solenoid.

I suppose then I'm drawing a bit of gear oil through the seals for 90% of the carriers drive time because they don't get used on the road.. IMO I should be able to turn a selectable locker off and not have to worry about it causing issues like oil leaking into the air system. I had to get fittings to connect the exhaust ports of the solenoids to additional air line to run the oil to a better draining location.


I've questioned lowering the pressure before but that completely defeats any tire filling purposes of the on board air. Unless I purchased an additional regulator to regulate the pressure on the solenoids alone.

That is exactly what I do on my Jeeps. Regulate the air to the ARB, and have full line pressure for filling tires/resetting beads and such. The only time the arb will draw in oil is when its turned off and the pressured line vents Through the NO path of the solenoid. It will create a vaccuum on the seals and draw oil through.
 
That is exactly what I do on my Jeeps. Regulate the air to the ARB, and have full line pressure for filling tires/resetting beads and such. The only time the arb will draw in oil is when its turned off and the pressured line vents Through the NO path of the solenoid. It will create a vaccuum on the seals and draw oil through.

have any part info or links to the additional regulator you're using? perhaps even a pic of your manifold setup?
 
I use this manifold. Don't buy the blue anodized aluminum ones from Amazon, they are tapped way too deep and won't seal.

I bought this regulator for it's compact size and fixed pressure to use with the locker, but didn't install it.

Purchase some Loctite 545 thread sealant, works far better than teflon tape.

DSCN2290.jpg
 
well that looks way easier to fit in the engine bay than trying to shoe horn ARB's manifold in there..

time to back up and punt...

thanks for the info for sure!
 
well that looks way easier to fit in the engine bay than trying to shoe horn ARB's manifold in there..

time to back up and punt...

thanks for the info for sure!
Keep in mind, that manifold holds very little air volume, I just use it for distribution. If you don't have a tank elsewhere in the system you may not get reliable engagement if your compressor can't keep up.
 
No pics, but I simply put a tee in and tee off to a regulator, and to the solenoid. The last one I did, I think I just picked up a small adjustable regulator from Lowes or Home Depot from their air compressor department. One that you set and lock the handle in place. That was years ago, and its still working great.

I also run a small air tank, approx. 1 gallon. Having some volume helps reset beads and/or run impact tools.
 
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No pics, but I simply put a tee in and tee off to a regulator, and to the solenoid. The last one I did, I think I just picked up a small adjustable regulator from Lowes or Home Depot from their air compressor department. One that you set and lock the handle in place. That was years ago, and its still working great.

I also run a small air tank, approx. 1 gallon. Having some volume helps reset beads and/or run impact tools.

Will the regulator hold pressure? I mean not leak? And keep the system holding air?
 

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