Alignment issue, need advice/recommendation

[RedST4R]

So I recently lifted my rig with bilsteins front (1.75") and rear w/ saw coils. Today, I went to the dealer for alignment. I requested highest caster but keeping everything else within specs. However, as you can see with the first pic, it is still out of specs and they even put a note saying left side is frozen, right side maxed out, and that I needed to get camber bolt kits (2nd pic). Plus, idk what SAI, and other alignment terms are. To me, seeing a lot of red just hurts my eyes. I'm not sure if what they're saying is a legit reason, but it might be true given that the shop who installed the lift said suspension parts were rusty and cause first 33k miles was driven in upstate NY by previous owner.

I'm no alignment expert nor mechanically inclined, but I need advice if I should get those camber bolt kits and have them realign it? Or have another shop align it? Or just upgrade UCAs?

Would those specs cause uneven tire wear or any issues?

Trying to avoid spending extra money in the meantime due to certain circumstances, so If I could keep stock UCAs for now then great, if not I'll have to break bank again lol.

Thanks in advance!

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[RedST4R]

Any input would be appreciated.


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[(none)]

If the camber bolts are frozen on one side, then the camber can't be adjusted. This isn't an uncommon issue, go ahead and replace them. From what I've read, the only way you are going to get the much castor is with aftermarket UCAs.
As you are already seeing, they can try to max out the castor with the stock arms as a priority, but it's hard to get everything else in spec at the same time. It will be much easier once you put UCAs on it.

 

[RedST4R]

If the camber bolts are frozen on one side, then the camber can't be adjusted. This isn't an uncommon issue, go ahead and replace them. From what I've read, the only way you are going to get the much castor is with aftermarket UCAs.

As you are already seeing, they can try to max out the castor with the stock arms as a priority, but it's hard to get everything else in spec at the same time. It will be much easier once you put UCAs on it.

I'm probably going to just replace the cam bolts and keep stock UCA for now and get them to realign. I know I won't achieve a high caster, but just hoping to get in specs which will give me a peace of mind. From what I've searched and read in other threads, folks are able to get it in spec with that setup. Thanks for the input!


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[RedST4R]

So I recently lifted my rig with bilsteins front (1.75") and rear w/ saw coils. Today, I went to the dealer for alignment. I requested highest caster but keeping everything else within specs. However, as you can see with the first pic, it is still out of specs and they even put a note saying left side is frozen, right side maxed out, and that I needed to get camber bolt kits (2nd pic). Plus, idk what SAI, and other alignment terms are. To me, seeing a lot of red just hurts my eyes. I'm not sure if what they're saying is a legit reason, but it might be true given that the shop who installed the lift said suspension parts were rusty and cause first 33k miles was driven in upstate NY by previous owner.

I'm no alignment expert nor mechanically inclined, but I need advice if I should get those camber bolt kits and have them realign it? Or have another shop align it? Or just upgrade UCAs?

Would those specs cause uneven tire wear or any issues?

Trying to avoid spending extra money in the meantime due to certain circumstances, so If I could keep stock UCAs for now then great, if not I'll have to break bank again lol.

Thanks in advance!

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I'm reviving my thread as I have encountered another issue/concern. I bought new cam bolts to try to resolve the frozen cam bolts according to the dealer, so I went to an alignment shop today and they told me I would need to replace both front LCAs because its seized. Now, I'm out of funds to buy new LCAs... my only concern is if the alignment specs above are okay to drive for a few months or so? Will it cause any uneven tire wear? Any input is appreciated.

 

[mybabydaddy]

I’ll bite.... but take into account I am not even CLOSE to being a suspension expert.... However, based off the #s you show on the spec sheet, I would have to say “no”, you are probably not going to experience any crazy damage or tire wear if you drive it in its current state for a few months while you save up some money. Having said that, if you drive 100 miles a day, 7 days a week, then yes, you will wear out your tires and components more than the guy who only drives 10-15 miles per day. Common sense.

But overall, no, your main specs are not ridiculously out of line, so I would say you are not “killing” anything in a short term time-line.

EDIT: Only you know/see your truck every day... so keep an eye on things while you are saving up some cash. If you walk out to the truck after a few weeks or month and see feathering or weird shadowing on a tire, you know you are doing some wear damage.

 

[LandCruiser]

If you think you need aftermarket UCAs, you need aftermarket UCAs.

 

[sting555]

I'm reviving my thread as I have encountered another issue/concern. I bought new cam bolts to try to resolve the frozen cam bolts according to the dealer, so I went to an alignment shop today and they told me I would need to replace both front LCAs because its seized. Now, I'm out of funds to buy new LCAs... my only concern is if the alignment specs above are okay to drive for a few months or so? Will it cause any uneven tire wear? Any input is appreciated.

If you need new LCAs and new UCAs, you might as well go long travel!

 

[Jetboy]

If you need new LCAs and new UCAs, you might as well go long travel!

If you give a mouse a cookie...

 

[RedST4R]

I’ll bite.... but take into account I am not even CLOSE to being a suspension expert.... However, based off the #s you show on the spec sheet, I would have to say “no”, you are probably not going to experience any crazy damage or tire wear if you drive it in its current state for a few months while you save up some money. Having said that, if you drive 100 miles a day, 7 days a week, then yes, you will wear out your tires and components more than the guy who only drives 10-15 miles per day. Common sense.

But overall, no, your main specs are not ridiculously out of line, so I would say you are not “killing” anything in a short term time-line.

EDIT: Only you know/see your truck every day... so keep an eye on things while you are saving up some cash. If you walk out to the truck after a few weeks or month and see feathering or weird shadowing on a tire, you know you are doing some wear damage.

I appreciate it and yes, totally makes sense. I'll be moving to Alaska in a few weeks which raises my concern, so I'll definitely be on the lookout for those things. Thanks!

If you think you need aftermarket UCAs, you need aftermarket UCAs.

I'll see if stock holds out for now, then upgrade later.

If you need new LCAs and new UCAs, you might as well go long travel!

Maybe... but I'm sure my wife will kill me if she finds out (and she will) how much those costs lol.