alignment question
- Thread starter Funcrazy1
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absalom
New member
Which lift are you using? You need about 3 degrees more caster. I hope you got the lifetime alignment. I regret not doing it with my first alignment. Also, you're on the higher side of allowable toe, which will result in rapidly accelerated tire wear. If they can't get the caster any higher, I'd look into adjustable UCA's.
To be honest I have no idea what type of lift I have.. I bought it with the lift on. All i can see in the front is Old man emu shocks and coil spacer "I think"
absalom
New member
Either way, with 3" of lift, you're at the upper end of OEM caster adjustability. It looks like they sacrificed all of your caster so as to avoid having positive caster ... \ /. Snap a quick picture of your lift, it'd help to see what you're working with. SPC UCA's run about $380, and this is arguably the most affordable solution to your issue. Unless of course you go back to stock suspension.
JayRolla
New member
Let me know if you need more ! I really appreciate the help. I also got the lifetime alignment
OME coils and shocks with a top out spacer to achieve 3" lift. Like stated you might need some new UCA's, I just installed some to combat the same issue. Guy at the alignment shop always said its not within spec but good enough to not cause major tire wear. I just installed some SPC's and will be getting alignment first thing in morning.
What does that mean?
Are installing UCA hard? Never done the furthest I've go into working on car is changing the LBJ CV axle and brakes
fourfive
Senior Member
They mean the outer edge of your stock UCAs were trimmed to prevent your tires from hitting the edge of your UCA. Installing the Light racing UCAs aren't too difficult and will allow more adjustability to get your alignment closer to factory specs. Toughest issue I ran into was trying to remove the upper ball joint. I initially used the 3 jaw puller with no luck, then a c-clamp press with no luck, & the pitman arm puller also with no luck. I kept at it going from one puller/press to the next until finally it came loose. Didn't have any rust issues and sprayed all the nuts/bolts down with liquid wrench several hours before but just had a hard time getting the upper ball joint free. Aside from that everything else was pretty straight forward.
JayRolla
New member
I used an 8" 3 claw puller to pull and press this weekend. I had no issues, it worked pretty good, had to use one of the adapters from my domestic ball joint press, a long socket and the 3 claw. Worked pretty good, just took awhile to find a good combination. So first side took an hour just for the ball joint and sleeve install where the other side took like 15 minutes after I figured it out. Last time I pulled entire hub assembly and found this way was much easier.
fourfive
Senior Member
Well damn, I know I will be reaching out to you the next time I'm having to do any UCA/upper ball joint work!
D Farms
New member
the stock ucas have an excess material around the upper ball joint mount, when you put wider tires on the truck they rub on that extra material. the previous owner took the upper control arms off, cut off the excess, then filled the hole with metal, doesnt look like they painted it. basically you can fit a 315/75r16 without rubbing the uca.
[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION], trimmed ucas are a good thing, they just need some paint.
[MENTION=79826]absalom[/MENTION], trimmed ucas are a good thing, they just need some paint.
absalom
New member
Installing the UCA's is pretty simple to be honest. Just make sure you drive in the adapter straight.
Oh I just meant he needs new UCA's to help with the caster issue.
IBallEngineer
New member
And for the record, the alignment shop made your alignment worse than it was when you showed up!
:violin:
:violin:
Well thats great... Good thing I got the lifetime alignment. Now I gotta save up and order some UCA. Somehow install them in a parking lot lol
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
How can it be worse, it was done on a JB alignment machine :behindsofa:
JayRolla
New member
So just got back from alignment shop. Had a battle with them. One side they could get aligned with my new SPC UCA's. The other had a camber of -1.8* full maxed out. They told me they needed to flip the ball joint completely around which SPC does not even say you can do and they wanted to charge me $200!!! Just to unload front suspension, loosen one bolt and flip it around. I was like hell no!
Drove home, flipped the ball joint around and camber was way off it was not even funny, looked dangerous to drive. So I set them too the +2* setting and hoped for best. Once I got there they said it was wrong again before trying and when they went to align they got it to work!!! LOL
Loading pics now. And to the OP I would take it to them again, those numbers look pretty bad after looking at my before and after.
Drove home, flipped the ball joint around and camber was way off it was not even funny, looked dangerous to drive. So I set them too the +2* setting and hoped for best. Once I got there they said it was wrong again before trying and when they went to align they got it to work!!! LOL
Loading pics now. And to the OP I would take it to them again, those numbers look pretty bad after looking at my before and after.
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Konkordmusk
New member
That's what I initially thought too, but I put myself in place of the tech. He at least evened out the camber and slid the right front tire ahead of the left front caster. IMO, its not horrible, but it could definitely improve withh some adjustable upper control arms. You should have seen my before specs
JRZEE2000TR4LTD
Senior Member
Those last readings are what you're riding at now. That caster is way too high. Everything else is dead on though. What are your SPC UCAs set on?