Alignment Revolution- post your alignment print off sheets. 3rd Gen

[psraff]

This sheet is after SPC UCAs. I've started a thread on this before I found this. My problem is I'm rubbing on the back of the wheel well more now then when I was before. Do I need to jack my Caster all the way up? I don't see too many people needing to do that....

...come to think about it, we started in the "D" position on the UCAs, and he did all the adjusting down below... He pulled all the caster out to get it back into spec. Where he should've zeroed out the ones down below and adjusted to get the caster on the UCAs. (just thinking out loud here.....)

 

[endgame56]

Make sure the steering wheel is straight also. Everywhere I've gone the wheel comes out crooked. I have to go back to Toyota for them to correct it, although the specs are good.

If you feel like getting under the truck, you can always just do this yourself by turning each ITRE the same exact amount of turns in opposite directions. I.e. lengthen the driver side by 1/4 turn and shorten the passenger side by 1/4 turn.

This will center your steering wheel without affecting toe.

 

[v3bahumut]

Should I be worried about the caster being .2* out of spec? Anything else look off or am I good. This is stock UCA with 3" toytec boss lift.

 

[JayRolla]

Should I be worried about the caster being .2* out of spec? Anything else look off or am I good. This is stock UCA with 3" toytec boss lift.

Not at all. Thats a good amount of caster for stock UCA's. You will be fine. I have ran from 1*-5.5* front caster and found not much difference between 1-5*.

 

[TrunksGen3]

Hi all,

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but i need your collective help.

My Gen 3 has a 2" suspension lift (Pedders) and a set of 285/75/16 BFG AT's fitted. I've been to get my wheel alignment done today, but am not sure what to aim for! These are my current measurements:

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Is there anyone out there who can offer some advice please?

By looking at the above data, it seems that the settings on file are:

Toe: 0.06
Camber: 0.15
Caster: 3.02

But i have no way of knowing if these are OK?

Anyone running a 2" suspension lift & 285's know the correct Camber & Caster angles for a gen 3?

Thanks in advance

James (UK)

 

[RonJR]

The correct numbers are pretty much independent of lift, especially for toe and camber. You want to shoot for factory numbers, which should be what are shown as the limits on the alignment sheet.

For caster, biasing it toward the positive end of the spec or perhaps a bit past will give you a more stable experience on the highway, at the expense of a somewhat heavier steering feel. It's a matter of preference.

If it was me, I'd put camber and toe right in the middle, and set caster to +3 on each side. If it still wanders, up the caster to 3.5 deg. If the steering feels too heavy and stiff, drop the caster to 2.5 deg.

For tire wear, it's very important to have the toe dead on in the center of the spec. Less critical for camber, and hardly at all for caster.

 

[PWD4R]

I just did my alignment today actually. 3" lift on OME suspension and 285/75 r16 BFG mud terrains. Here are my numbers

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[silverturbo]

My first time geting an alignment after installing my 3" bilstein/toytec lift w/superflex coils in the rear. 265/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler

2000 4runner limited 4wd

After reading and comparing my results with others, it looks like the only way to adjust my caster is with an aftermarket UCA.

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[BigFishAllDay]

This is a beautiful alignment.

3.3 caster on the right and 3.1 on the left to account for road crown and everything else zeroed. Fresh bushings in both UCAs and LCAs. Front cams in, back cams out for full firewall clearance via the LCAs. SPC UCAs on "D" for +2.0 caster and set with the UBJ ~1/4" inboard from the outside edge of the slot to dial in some negative camber at the UBJ.

I'm always amazed at the trouble people have getting good alignments.

 

[Maximushawj]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I’m having issue with my alignment as well. I have tundra/5100 Bilstein on second perch in the front net about 3” lift with all pro uca Uni-Ball all new lca bushing inner outer tie rods new oem lbj. I went to get an alignment today the tech told me he max out my cams and couldn’t get my caster to spec. My steering wheel won’t turn to center and wanders off on the highway. maybe this guy doesn’t know what he’s doing... need some help plz.

 

[SFsquared]

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I’m having issue with my alignment as well. I have tundra/5100 Bilstein on second perch in the front net about 3” lift with all pro uca Uni-Ball all new lca bushing inner outer tie rods new oem lbj. I went to get an alignment today the tech told me he max out my cams and couldn’t get my caster to spec. My steering wheel won’t turn to center and wanders off on the highway. maybe this guy doesn’t know what he’s doing... need some help plz.

Did you ever figure out the problem? I’m in a similar situation and would love to know your solution.

 

[bkelsey.6692]

Help!

This was the first alignment I got with this truck. The rear alignment is cringeworthy. What do you guys think the verdict is? Axle doesnt seem "bent", but definitely out of alignment.

Doing all wheel bearings, ball joint, sway arms ends and bushings, and a new to me Panhard bar, and front right LCA (had some knocking). Checked front UCAs and back LCAs and UCAs, and they're fine. Front left LCA wasnt as bad as the front right.

Guy at the alignment shop said my axle is PROBABLY bent. Do you guys think so?

Wouldnt toe in and toe out of equal measurement mean the axles is sitting off-center? Hoping the better pandard bar fixed it. Dumping money into this thing, and would hate for the frame to be bent.

A former toyota tech said that bad springs can cause the rear end to be pushed to the left.

 

[RonJR]

Your rear toe issues simply mean the rear axle is not exactly square with the vehicle - one side is slightly ahead of the other side. That's not a problem per se, it just means the vehicle will run slightly crooked (dog -style) down the road. Since the error is only .5 degrees, it will probably be barely noticeable. Have someone drive behind you and see if the rear axle runs noticeably out of line with the front. If they can't see the issue, forget about it and don't worry about it again. Since the toe error is essentially the same magnitude on each side, just opposite sign, it means the wheels are running parallel, so it won't affect tire wear or handling or much of anything else.

It's not a bent axle, btw, nor a problem with the pan-hard bar. Much more likely a worn control arm bushing on one side or the other.

 

[Smog-guy707]

From today. Coronavirus has my job slow as F, so I did an alignment to my 4Runner today. With a 3” lift, stock control arms


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[Vansnxtweek]

This is the alignment I just got with JBA UCAs and a 3" Toytec Aluma series lift. To me, it feels like its still wandering and wants to walk itself all over the road. Does this sound like a caster isue? I specifically asked for the highest caster possible and this is what they gave me.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

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[Bad Luck]

This is the alignment I just got with JBA UCAs and a 3" Toytec Aluma series lift. To me, it feels like its still wandering and wants to walk itself all over the road. Does this sound like a caster isue? I specifically asked for the highest caster possible and this is what they gave me.

Any advice is appreciated.

That does sound like too little caster, but that's probably as good as you can get without the UCA being adjustable like SPC UCA. Anytime you change caster you are also changing camber so it's a bit of a trial and error/balancing act in order to get camber and caster in spec. In other words they probably ran out of adjustment on one of the cams and had to call it close enough.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

That does sound like too little caster, but that's probably as good as you can get without the UCA being adjustable like SPC UCA. Anytime you change caster you are also changing camber so it's a bit of a trial and error/balancing act in order to get camber and caster in spec. In other words they probably ran out of adjustment on one of the cams and had to call it close enough.

It sure behaves like that. I really hoped with buying aftermarket control arms I'd be able to get all of what I needed as far as adjustment.

I'm curious what someone else's experience is with this range of caster.

Maybe should've gone, SPC, IDK.

 

[Bad Luck]

It sure behaves like that. I really hoped with buying aftermarket control arms I'd be able to get all of what I needed as far as adjustment.

I'm curious what someone else's experience is with this range of caster.

Maybe should've gone, SPC, IDK.

Have you looked at the 4 adjustment cams to see if they look close to maxed in any direction? For more caster the fronts will be bolt head towards the center and the rears will be bolt head towards the outside. You may be able to get more caster out of it if you're willing to run a little bit more negative or positive camber. Just need to make sure both sides are either both negative camber or both positive camber. Mismatched camber will cause a pull towards the positive camber side.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

Have you looked at the 4 adjustment cams to see if they look close to maxed in any direction? For more caster the fronts will be bolt head towards the center and the rears will be bolt head towards the outside. You may be able to get more caster out of it if you're willing to run a little bit more negative or positive camber. Just need to make sure both sides are either both negative camber or both positive camber. Mismatched camber will cause a pull towards the positive camber side.

I’ll go out and take a look here in a few and see what we’re looking like.