Alignment Toe Woes, Suggestions?

1blink

New member
I've had her aligned twice so far at Firestone, each time the toe has shifted within 30 miles. Recent work I've done prior to alignment:

New L.R. UCAs
Extended sway bar end links

New toyota:
ITRE/OTRE's
LBJs
Driver side steering knuckle/spindle/wheel bearing

Any ideas on what could be hiding my shifting toe problem?
Thanks for looking.
 
Register to hide this ad
After the time I spent on alignment problems with shitty replacement LCA's (Dorman) before switching to new Toyota LCA's, you might want to explore replacing the bushings and or entire LCA's (and it looks like you've already replaced all the other items).
 
You replaced the entire LCAs? How much did those set you back? From what I've read, removing the bushings from the LCA can be a beast
 
You replaced the entire LCAs? How much did those set you back? From what I've read, removing the bushings from the LCA can be a beast

Long story short, I went cheap and bought Dorman LCA's for like $55 each, they were total shit and gave me all kinds of alignment problems. Got smart and bought Toyota LCA's for $200/ea at the local dealer and everything is good to go now.

The LCA bushings are enough of a pain in the ass to drive me to just buy new arms and be done with...no amount of beer can make the bushings a fun job.
 
I think that's the route I will go, New LCAs, instead of jacking with the bushings. Did you have to order any other parts too, or did the rest of it transfer over to the new arms ok?
 
Long story short, I went cheap and bought Dorman LCA's for like $55 each, they were total shit and gave me all kinds of alignment problems. Got smart and bought Toyota LCA's for $200/ea at the local dealer and everything is good to go now.

The LCA bushings are enough of a pain in the ass to drive me to just buy new arms and be done with...no amount of beer can make the bushings a fun job.

Yep these trucks don't like aftermarket bushings unless they're poly... I had the same problem with my VatoZone LCAs
 
another option is doing poly bushing in the LCA... i just burned out my ilf bushings, cut out the sleeve and put new poly bushings in from whiteline... the kit is like $70 for both sides and works like a dream
 
another option is doing poly bushing in the LCA... i just burned out my ilf bushings, cut out the sleeve and put new poly bushings in from whiteline... the kit is like $70 for both sides and works like a dream
$70 vs $350 ... that is an attractive difference. How many miles have you put on them so far?
 
another option is doing poly bushing in the LCA... i just burned out my ilf bushings, cut out the sleeve and put new poly bushings in from whiteline... the kit is like $70 for both sides and works like a dream

Saving $300 bucks on parts for my labor seemed too good to pass up. My Whiteline bushing kit is on the way, I will let you know how it goes. Was a sawzall on the inner bushing the way you removed them?
 
it can be done that way, but be careful not to cut into the control arm... the method i used was a cutting tourch and scarfing the old sleeve out... the sleeve metal is made from a different material/metal than the control arm, and thus it burned out much easier and with minimal risk of damage to the actual control arm itself.

to make things easier on yourself, get some sylglide for lube -poly bushings will squeak if dry, and the sylglide will help with instal. heat up the control arm assembly in a oven if you can(make sure its clean and free of gunk ect -i took mine and washed them out in a parts cleaner and used a wire brush on them, then painted them with epoxy paint to fight rust and make them look nice and new, and the heat from the oven helped bake and cure the paint as well) as this will ever so slightly expand the metal -like 250* or less is all that is needed, and then freeze the bushings(this will shrink them) the combination of the two extremes will help you install them without the use of a press. remove the frozen bushings, apply sylglide to them liberally and put the control arms in a vice then use a 3lb hammer and something with a smooth flat surface to lay over the bushing and proceed to tap the bushing into place... -repeat as necessary. the two temp extremes will quickly offset one another and within about 10min they should be able to be handled.
 
Kid - with the whitelines did you reuse the original bushing washers or are they supposed to be installed without the original bushing washers?

EDIT: Found my answer - Whiteline bushings do not require reusing the original bushing washers.
 
Last edited:
Looks like Whiteline is back ordered 4-8 weeks. That rules them out. Any suggestions on high quality poly bushings, or maybe I should just stick with oem?
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,066
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top