Alternator Choice

C

CutthroatSlam

Senior Member
Think the alternator went out while we were driving early this morning. Headlights got progressively dimmer and then a whole bunch of idiot lights came on: Brake, ABS, Battery, traction control, etc. Eventually the whole dash went dark, but would come back on when the headlights were turned off. We pulled off onto a snowy residential side street and parked it waiting for a tow. It is at our mechanic's shop, but he's not working today to test it.

When I look up the alternators on Toyota's online parts site, they show a 130 amp and 100 amp alternators. Are these interchangeable? Both listings show it applicable for 2010 to 2020 4Runners with 4.0 liter engine. If that is the case, it would seem that the 130 amp would be preferable. What do you all think?
 
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I would only choose the larger if that is what you need or that is what the existing is rated at. Otherwise, will be wasting money assuming it costs more. The alternator will only produce what your vehicle will use.
 
I'd go by part number. Partsouq lists number 2706031190 as the OEM replacement, which is a 130 amp.

This is for the 2019-2020 model....
 

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Alternator for 2014 Toyota 4Runner | Lithia Toyota Parts

These are the two that showed up when I punched in the vehicle. Description on the 100 amp indicates Tundra. I called the dealer with the VIN # and they confirmed it was 130 amp. However, the dealer price was around $580 (I tuned out at 5), but they could have it as early as tomorrow. The website price is obviously much lower. They did say they are all reman'd unit, so there is a core charge. I'm wondering if the brand new CKO (Chinesium Knock Off) for $125 with Amazon Prime is the better option?
 

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If you have the towing package you'd want the higher amp alternator. Usually that's part of the package along with a larger battery, tranny cooler and other things.
 
I went back with an ohm/voltage meter to test it. Got a steady 11.74 volts at the battery terminals when Idling and when held at 2000 rpms. Then when we stopped it, voltage increased to 11.86, which makes sense as there is no draw.

So it's confirmed bad. I punched in the order and it should arrive the 8th or 9th.
 
Mine made it to 277k miles.

If you have Limited or TE, you want the 130, otherwise 100 is fine. The extra amps are for the PTC heater in the TE and Limited, which are electric heat strips on the heater core which draw a huge amperage to get warm air, faster.

You definitely want to go OEM, especially with your wife driving in remote areas.
 
I stuck my cellphone down and took a pic of the actual part number on mine to make sure it was the 130Amp.
A lot of places sell the Denso reman part number, even Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-210-1190

When I was a kid, there were alternator and starter rebuild businesses in every town. Do they still exist? Parts are available from Toyota, just need a puller.
 
My advice, either go full OE or specialty aftermarket. There is no in between.

If retail Denso alternators are anything like retail Denso AC compressors, they’ll only last about 4 years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
First miles not on its own…..
 

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CutthroatSlam said:
I'm wondering if the brand new CKO (Chinesium Knock Off) for $125 with Amazon Prime is the better option?
Click to expand...

It's a cheaper option, but not necessarily a better option. Look how long your OEM alternator lasted. Most of that is because it's a high-quality unit which happens to cost more money. The lower priced Amazon unit will not last nearly as long because so many corners were cut in the manufacturing process to get the cost down.

Remember, cost and price are not the same thing. Price is what you pay at the cash register. Cost is what you pay over the life of the part. And don't let the warranty of a low-priced part fool you. They may replace a defective unit - once - but they won't cover the cost of the labor to install it.
 
Too Stroked said:
It's a cheaper option, but not necessarily a better option. Look how long your OEM alternator lasted. Most of that is because it's a high-quality unit which happens to cost more money. The lower priced Amazon unit will not last nearly as long because so many corners were cut in the manufacturing process to get the cost down.

Remember, cost and price are not the same thing. Price is what you pay at the cash register. Cost is what you pay over the life of the part. And don't let the warranty of a low-priced part fool you. They may replace a defective unit - once - but they won't cover the cost of the labor to install it.
Click to expand...

You also rarely (never) get the choice of where the cheap part fails. The main reason most of us have a 4Runner, is reliability.

Me, I'd go with the new OEM unit.
 
jp.vegas said:
poor girl
Click to expand...

Probably could have waited until sunrise and drove it to the mechanic because it did start easily there when I tested it.

For all the rest, a new OEM Alternator has been ordered. Meanwhile we drive the big brother to the 4Runner, my '99 K2500 Suburban w/ 6.5 diesel.
 
CutthroatSlam said:
Did you think it through before posting this. There are no fuses between the alternator and the battery.

New alternator is in and working fine. 13.74 volts at the battery posts while idling.
Click to expand...

Glad you got that POS of an alternator fixed, maybe you should read a wiring schematic before asking me if I think it through, next time you post asking for help you should think before you type.
 
vipergrhd said:
Glad you got that POS of an alternator fixed, maybe you should read a wiring schematic before asking me if I think it through, next time you post asking for help you should think before you type.
Click to expand...

Dude, I didn’t ask you for input and based on your response here, no one should. You’re embarrassing yourself. Check the fuses for the alternator
 
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