Amazing...

[phattyduck]

Why do you need to remove the intake cams, and not the exhaust cams?

What parts need to be transferred? Throttle body? Sensors?

Everybody swore up and down this truck was bullet-proof and would last forever... I'm starting to regret buying it. Just today another problem surfaced. I'll have to start yet another thread...

He's saying that removing the cams makes adjusting the valves easier - but that only makes sense if you are doing major work to the heads. The valves can be adjusted with the cams in place if you have the right tools or rig something up (basically, you need to open the valve manual and pop the shim out).

For a JDM 5VZ engine into a US truck, EVERYTHING on the outside of the motor needs to be swapped over. All accessory drive pullies/brackets, manifolds (intake and exhaust), accessories, mounts, oil cooler, oil filter mount, engine mounts, etc. The JDM 5VZ's come from a HiAce (I believe) and have a totally different external configuration in that chassis. The motor itself (just the long block) is compatible.

These trucks are as bulletproof as a ~20 year old vehicle can be. If it was mistreated or neglected, it *will* have problems. Reliable doesn't mean maintenance free - and 20 years and a few hundred thousand miles means there will be some work to keep it reliable. But many of us here are perfectly happy to hop in our 200k+ mile trucks and drive across country tomorrow with no worries.

-Charlie

 

[The Cold War Kid]

He's saying that removing the cams makes adjusting the valves easier - but that only makes sense if you are doing major work to the heads. The valves can be adjusted with the cams in place if you have the right tools or rig something up (basically, you need to open the valve manual and pop the shim out).

For a JDM 5VZ engine into a US truck, EVERYTHING on the outside of the motor needs to be swapped over. All accessory drive pullies/brackets, manifolds (intake and exhaust), accessories, mounts, oil cooler, oil filter mount, engine mounts, etc. The JDM 5VZ's come from a HiAce (I believe) and have a totally different external configuration in that chassis. The motor itself (just the long block) is compatible.

These trucks are as bulletproof as a ~20 year old vehicle can be. If it was mistreated or neglected, it *will* have problems. Reliable doesn't mean maintenance free - and 20 years and a few hundred thousand miles means there will be some work to keep it reliable. But many of us here are perfectly happy to hop in our 200k+ mile trucks and drive across country tomorrow with no worries.

-Charlie

I've already done some work on the truck, Charlie. Like a new driveshaft, fixed the heater (door motor), changed the o2 sensors, serviced the trans, plugs, wires, oil change and general servicing... I'm not expecting a new truck and I'm willing to pay my dues.

It's interesting - the so-called JDM engines I've seen online look exactly like the one in the runner... So maybe not JDM after all?

 

[phattyduck]

It's interesting - the so-called JDM engines I've seen online look exactly like the one in the runner... So maybe not JDM after all?

The differences are subtle enough that if you don't know exactly what you are looking for, you won't see them in the standard pictures.

In this picture you can easily see:
- Heater lines over the intake manifold
- Oil filter in wrong location
- Wrong exhaust manifold

-Charlie

 

[brillo_76]

If you have a pcv valve stuck. Or major vaccum leak. Your valves can get noisy.

Has the knock sensor been verified as functioning properly?


Rough idles from vaccum leaks can get rattely..


I do believe the FSM has the procedure on how to shim the valves as well. Along with all the video and comments from people here that have done it.


If the engine was abused with oil not being changed regularly with new filters. Its possible your cams and valve train is extremely warn.


To test this theory

You could thicken the oil a little.

2 ways of easily doing it

1] use 10w - 30 conventional oil or synthetic blend.

2] as a test, replace 1 quart of oil with one quart of locus heavy duty oil stabilizer


If this quiets the engine valve train down big time. I would suspect heavy wear in the valve train.

As an Example:


I have one of my 5 4 runners the valves are very noisy on. I know its heavily damaged by abuse because the head gasket was leaking antifreeze and its TC is damaged.

Its PO 2 owners ago abused the living delights of of the rig. Thus causing all this damage.


I also have a 1998 4 runner v6 with 256k on the clock that purs like a kitten. Its original owner did basic maintenance.

Its amazing the differences between these engines and they are identical as the damaged one has 250k on the clock and also 1998 limited v6




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[gamefreakgc]

Why do you need to remove the intake cams, and not the exhaust cams?

What parts need to be transferred? Throttle body? Sensors?

Everybody swore up and down this truck was bullet-proof and would last forever... I'm starting to regret buying it. Just today another problem surfaced. I'll have to start yet another thread...

I should back up a little. There's two ways to remove the shims: with a valve adjustment tool set or by removing the camshafts. The valve adjustment tools look like a pair of curved pliers with a small pick, you compress the valve bucket (but not pinning down the shim) and then you use the small pick and wedge it on the small knife edge of the bucket against the bottom of the camshaft shaft. If you do it right, the pliers will release and hold the bucket down but not the shim, allowing you to pop it out with a small screwdriver and magnet. Takes a good 20 tries before you get it right the first time though, very frustrating.

If you want to remove the camshafts, the whole engine has to be torn apart. Fan, belts, timing cover, timing belt, tensioner, it's a long list of parts in addition to the top end parts that need to removed to access both valve covers. Basically stripping it down to a long block at that point. However, you just measure the gaps, unbolt the camshafts and the shim are just sitting there to swap in and out.

Either way, both are big jobs that would take a lot of time. I would not recommend having a shop do due to the labor costs alone.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Something else i'm curious to know is if you hear it when its cold at first start up or after its gotten up to operating temperature. Mine has always "tapped" since the day I got it. But only when its warmed up and I'm pretty mush 100% sure its related to the ABS canister on that side clicking/actuating through the vacuum lines. I had read somewhere that it wasn't valves but it sounds a lot similar to valves tapping. Could be wrong. But without actually hearing it It's hard to know from a forum what is actually going on. BTW I've put 33k on mine since I bought it making that "noise" and its been totally fine, and my engine was super sludged up and I had a low oil pressure light. Had to clean oil pan, sludge, pickup tube, and replace the lower connecting rod bearings....So if i've put 35k on my engine since doing all that I would say yeah these engines are pretty damn robust! I feel like you're just trying to find something to come on here and complain about when the majority of us don't even consider it a real big issue. Just my .02 hope you get whatever it is figured out. Cheers!

 

[The Cold War Kid]

Something else i'm curious to know is if you hear it when its cold at first start up or after its gotten up to operating temperature. Mine has always "tapped" since the day I got it. But only when its warmed up and I'm pretty mush 100% sure its related to the ABS canister on that side clicking/actuating through the vacuum lines. I had read somewhere that it wasn't valves but it sounds a lot similar to valves tapping. Could be wrong. But without actually hearing it It's hard to know from a forum what is actually going on. BTW I've put 33k on mine since I bought it making that "noise" and its been totally fine, and my engine was super sludged up and I had a low oil pressure light. Had to clean oil pan, sludge, pickup tube, and replace the lower connecting rod bearings....So if i've put 35k on my engine since doing all that I would say yeah these engines are pretty damn robust! I feel like you're just trying to find something to come on here and complain about when the majority of us don't even consider it a real big issue. Just my .02 hope you get whatever it is figured out. Cheers!

Why would I want to "come on here and complain"? What's in it for me? I want to get my lil truck running right - that's all. If, in the process of doing so, I have a negative effect on those that are chauvinistic, about these trucks, my bad - I tend to speak directly and without the sugar coating.

My noise is barely present at startup and gets louder as the motor warms.

What is an "ABS CANISTER"? You're saying the ABS system is doing something all the time - even when the brakes are not being applied? Maybe my understanding of that system is incomplete...

I would be very happy to learn it is not the valves. I will use a stethoscope on it tomorrow, in order to find out!

If you are not anal about your vehicle and the way it runs valve noise is not a big issue. However, when there are loose clearances that is a good sign there are valves that are too tight, as well, and THAT IS a big issue.

 

[The Cold War Kid]

If you have a pcv valve stuck. Or major vaccum leak. Your valves can get noisy.

Has the knock sensor been verified as functioning properly?


Rough idles from vaccum leaks can get rattely..


I do believe the FSM has the procedure on how to shim the valves as well. Along with all the video and comments from people here that have done it.


If the engine was abused with oil not being changed regularly with new filters. Its possible your cams and valve train is extremely warn.


To test this theory

You could thicken the oil a little.

2 ways of easily doing it

1] use 10w - 30 conventional oil or synthetic blend.

2] as a test, replace 1 quart of oil with one quart of locus heavy duty oil stabilizer


If this quiets the engine valve train down big time. I would suspect heavy wear in the valve train.

As an Example:


I have one of my 5 4 runners the valves are very noisy on. I know its heavily damaged by abuse because the head gasket was leaking antifreeze and its TC is damaged.

Its PO 2 owners ago abused the living delights of of the rig. Thus causing all this damage.


I also have a 1998 4 runner v6 with 256k on the clock that purs like a kitten. Its original owner did basic maintenance.

Its amazing the differences between these engines and they are identical as the damaged one has 250k on the clock and also 1998 limited v6




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The PCV valve was stuck. I think it was the one toyota installed at the factory, as was the fuel filter. First thing I thought when I test drove this truck was the top end was overheating. I've remedied several things, including the thermostat and a new fuel/air sensor.

I'm amazed by how quickly the temp gauge come up. I fixed it, too - lol - new sender. It takes about 2 blocks for it to show operating temp and the heater to begin working. Not sure what that's a sign of but at least the cooling system is working.

The idle is smooth. The motor runs good now. I don't think there are any vacuum leaks. There seems to be a port on the intake manifold to measure that. I'll try to remember to do that. Now, where is that gauge...

I'd like to verify the oil pressure before I get any farther into this motor.

 

[The Cold War Kid]

The differences are subtle enough that if you don't know exactly what you are looking for, you won't see them in the standard pictures.

In this picture you can easily see:
- Heater lines over the intake manifold
- Oil filter in wrong location
- Wrong exhaust manifold

-Charlie

Yeah. And so this motor is still being used in Japan?

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Here's a thread to support what I was saying about the ABS charcoal canister.

My "solution" to the charcoal canister clicking and "thupping" issue

Took me 2 seconds to type in google "3rd gen 4runner ABS canister clicking"
this could be what the cuprit is and it may have only gotten louder. Good luck
figuring this out.

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Why would I want to "come on here and complain"? What's in it for me? I want to get my lil truck running right - that's all. If, in the process of doing so, I have a negative effect on those that are chauvinistic, about these trucks, my bad - I tend to speak directly and without the sugar coating.

My noise is barely present at startup and gets louder as the motor warms.

What is an "ABS CANISTER"? You're saying the ABS system is doing something all the time - even when the brakes are not being applied? Maybe my understanding of that system is incomplete...

I would be very happy to learn it is not the valves. I will use a stethoscope on it tomorrow, in order to find out!

If you are not anal about your vehicle and the way it runs valve noise is not a big issue. However, when there are loose clearances that is a good sign there are valves that are too tight, as well, and THAT IS a big issue.

Not the fact that you complain you just get frustrated with fellow T4r members for not answering your questions right away when the fact of the matter is the sounds you may be encountering may be completely normal or a benign issue. I understand if its a valve issue that you wanna address is that it can lead to bigger issues. But that link I provided above should be able to help you out and hopefully that's what it ends up being. I've noticed I don't hear it chattering when my trucks cold but when it get's up to operating temperature but when I park and shut it off and restart it the noise goes away. Again good luck addressing it.

 

[brillo_76]

[MENTION=430723]The Cold War Kid[/MENTION].


I have one last suggestion..


Why dont your start a Cold war kid Repair thread?


That way you can ask your questions and the members can answer them help you learn how to search the forum etc. :]


I can understand you want to get your rig in tip top shape and lots of users are here just to help others and contribute ( pretty much what I do) . I also learn things I didn't know from others experiences.


From what I gathered from your threads is your 3rd gen 4runner was neglected some from previous owners and that is not uncommon. Most of my fleet was as well.


Toyota engines have a extremely solid oil pump. Check out that section in the Factory service manual [FSM] and you see what I mean.


I personally in almost 30 years of working on these engines never had to mess with the oil pump. I currently own 10 Toyotas and in my lifetime probably had 20 Toyotas from Camry's, trucks, 4 runners and sienna Van's.

Not a bad idea checking the oil pressure. If its good. Try my 2 suggestions to see if your engine quiets down. Then you know for sure your dealing with heavy wear on your valve train. :]


My theory is that it will quiet down big time and your engine has some significant wear in it. :[







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[BoomerBob]

Has anyone suggested this may simply be a noisy injector or two? They can sound like noisy valves sometimes when they click, click, click.

 

[The Cold War Kid]

[MENTION=430723]The Cold War Kid[/MENTION].


I have one last suggestion..


Why dont your start a Cold war kid Repair thread?


That way you can ask your questions and the members can answer them help you learn how to search the forum etc. :]


I can understand you want to get your rig in tip top shape and lots of users are here just to help others and contribute ( pretty much what I do) . I also learn things I didn't know from others experiences.


From what I gathered from your threads is your 3rd gen 4runner was neglected some from previous owners and that is not uncommon. Most of my fleet was as well.


Toyota engines have a extremely solid oil pump. Check out that section in the Factory service manual [FSM] and you see what I mean.


I personally in almost 30 years of working on these engines never had to mess with the oil pump. I currently own 10 Toyotas and in my lifetime probably had 20 Toyotas from Camry's, trucks, 4 runners and sienna Van's.

Not a bad idea checking the oil pressure. If its good. Try my 2 suggestions to see if your engine quiets down. Then you know for sure your dealing with heavy wear on your valve train. :]


My theory is that it will quiet down big time and your engine has some significant wear in it. :[







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The search has never worked for me - not once. I saw another guy use google with something like site: or something like that. I'll have to look up that thread.

Maybe the motor does have wear. And that's the point - if it does, I'll simply do a JDM engine. If I have to change a lot of stuff, well, ok... But flogging a dead horse never works.

Anyhow - it's about over for serious work on cars. Winter is here. I think I have it going well enough to drive it until spring... though I do want to check for vacuum leaks and use my stethoscope to see it the injectors are making the racket. That's possible, yes?

The motor uses no oil and is pretty peppy. The truck is kinda cool. I'm not crazy about the "roomy" interior but I like the rest It rides rough - seems new rear springs will fix that?

Anyhow, I will do as you suggested and consolidate my threads all into one. would have been a good idea from the start. Somebody considering buying one of these at this late date might have gotten an idea of what it would take to get it going good.

 

[brillo_76]

Oh we can teach you in time how to use the search...

Living in South west Pennsylvania. I Do all my work in garage. I have heat and AC. However, for 25 years I did all my work outside so I can completely understand the rust belt goes out of commission after October till about March or April for outside work.

Granted, if you have the power and only need to run thicker oil to quiet it down. You may get another 50 to 80k out of that engine before a head gasket etc go. Then you can do your engine swap. [ or rebuilt head swap ]


I have seen these Toyota engines run quite a long time with issues.... Granted eventually you will probably have to change it but then again. . She may stick together for many many years yet.







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[Rolling_Thunder]

In conclusion - adjusting valves is actually pretty easy. I adjust the valves on my 440 every 2-3 months since I am running a mechanical camshaft.

 

[The Cold War Kid]

Has anyone suggested this may simply be a noisy injector or two? They can sound like noisy valves sometimes when they click, click, click.

B I N G O !!

Used my trusty listening hose. Listened along the outsides of the valve covers - nothing. Tops - nothing. Placed the hose next to the injectors. Bingo! Verified it with the stethoscope.

I've yet to hear a fuel injector - before now. They typically just kinda sit there... and inject. Now I learn they can make noise. I was suspicious when I changed the oil to rotella t 15w40 and nothing happened...

The obvious question, of course, is is making noise a sign they are about to quit working? Methinks not...

Drove it some today. Sitting at a light you need to look at the tach to know if the motor is running Thermostat and hoses installed with clean antifreeze. Heat sender changed and new heater hoses. Temp is down and rock steady. Heater door motor fixed. Heater works. Driveshaft isn't perfect but not bad, at all. Windshield replaced. Trans is serviced, fluid clean and silky smooth. Still haven't cut the wire to kill the headlights - lol

On a run of 150 miles at 60 mph, regular road driving with small towns, etc. she turned in 23.76 miles/gallon.

I'm declaring my new truck fixed, for now.

I'll put a new set of injectors in it when the weather warms up again. That'll cost me around $500. I'm on budget - paid $3100 and planned to spend $1900 getting it running perfectly. I can't STAND vehicles that don't run and drive right!

Thank you BoomerBob and all that helped me out with this. You guys are all right... no matter WHAT they say about you

 

[infamousRNR]

B I N G O !!

I'm declaring my new truck fixed, for now.

I'll put a new set of injectors in it when the weather warms up again. That'll cost me around $500. I'm on budget - paid $3100 and planned to spend $1900 getting it running perfectly. I can't STAND vehicles that don't run and drive right!

Thank you BoomerBob and all that helped me out with this. You guys are all right... no matter WHAT they say about you

it doesn't have to cost you that much if you consider replacing them through Motor West. check out our video and tell the owner Martin Diaz that Timmy the Toolman sent ya!



YouTube




.

 

[brillo_76]

Great glad you found it. I use the oil test if it's a warn valvetrain. I am also glad it just an injector. Fairly easy to change and your good to go.


I have heard of folks using aftermarket injectors and had nightmares. So maybe find yourself a good set out of a junkyard or from a fellow member on here.






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[gamefreakgc]

Just putting this out there, but Toyota injectors tick. Every one I've ever owned does it. I put in a brand new set about 4 years ago (nothing wrong with the old ones) and guess what? The new ones tick. The FPR also ticks with age.

Ticking does not imply they are not delivering fuel accurately.