give me a model number or a RMS so i can reference for more spec, then i need to decide how you want to wire them because there are 2.
Do you have an aftermarket HU or are you going to try and connect these to stock?
Are they gray or black? Ones that are gray in color are 2 ohm and black in color are 4 ohm.
I have 6 GA cables that I've already installed. Probably overkill on the size, but that's what I have. No idea what kind of box it is, but this looks exactly like the one I have. (If you haven't noticed, I'm a complete noob when it comes to this kind of stuff, but I'm not picky at all about the system. I just got a lot of the stuff for free, and I'm just trying to get it together). The box that they came in looks exactly like this, except the connections are on the back and it has some insulation on the inside.
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I could be wrong but the box doesn't matter to what amp you pick as long as its within spec of the sub.
As far as amps go, with the length of wire you have to run and using 6 gauge wire I wouldn't go over 750w. Even that is pushing it in my opinion. The only reason I wont say "use this amp" is because everyone has their own opinion on what is best and I've used multiple different brands with good results. So in conclusion, get a class D amp somewhere between 500-750 amps. Stick to a good brand. JL audio, Kicker, Alpine. Soundstream if you really want to dive into your wallet.
Here are a few examples (note that they do recommend atleast 4gauge wire, as do I, if not more)
Alpine PDX-M6 Mono sub amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
JL Audio XD600/1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com
While those are very nice amps, spending that much on an amp without a extremely high quality source unit, and better subs is kind of throwing money in the toilet honestly.