Amp & Sub question

Party Boy

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I have two Alpine Type R 10" subs that my brother practically gave me (they're a few years old, but hardly used), but I have no idea what kind of amp to get for them. Does anybody have any idea what I'd need? I don't want to get an amp that's going to fry itself or my subs.
 
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give me a model number or a RMS so i can reference for more spec, then i need to decide how you want to wire them because there are 2.
 
give me a model number or a RMS so i can reference for more spec, then i need to decide how you want to wire them because there are 2.

He gave them to me mounted in a box already, so I'll have to pull one out to verify the model number. I'd be inclined to bridge the two subs, but I don't know what's better. That's just what I'm familiar with and that's how my brother ran it. His amp died though, so I don't know if he knew what he was doing either.
 
Do you have an aftermarket HU or are you going to try and connect these to stock?

Bridged is how the amp was connected. I think shootmymime was asking more if you wanted to run the subs in series or parallel.
 
i need to know if they are 2 or 4ohm, thats why it would be nice if you could pull them out of the box, (just one atleast)
 
Do you have an aftermarket HU or are you going to try and connect these to stock?

I have an Alpine HU. Not sure the exact model, but it says "CDE-102" on the top. I just looked at the sub, and it's serial no. is C60410264S. It also says SWR-1042D above that. Hope that helps. I am fairly certain that they are 4 ohm, considering the fact that somewhere on them I saw the 4 with the ohm symbol next to it.
 
Are they gray or black? Ones that are gray in color are 2 ohm and black in color are 4 ohm.
 
You need to know what EXACT Alpine Type R 10" model it is.

Does it have 2 voice coils or just one?

How many connectors?

Can you look at the sub and read off a model # ?


Personally I would recommend only running 1 Type-R 10" in a sealed sub. That is what I do and it more than rocks the truck without rocking the neighborhood.

In fact since I sound proofed the vehicle I couldn't rock the neighborhood even if I wanted to be "that a-hole" :painkiller:

I'm running 550 W RMS @ 2 ohm into my single Type-R 10. That is a very safe wattage for this sub. I would try to stay above 300W RMS per sub and under 700 W RMS per sub for the Type-R..

Edit: you can also call Alpine!


Summary: sell one of them and run the remaining one with 500W RMS.

Also buy an Alpine Amp to pair it with. Check out EBAY, buy new. They have great prices and warranty.

This is a great Amp to pair a single Type R 10" with. I have it and it works great. 550 W RMS.
---> http://www.ebay.com/itm/MRX-M55-ALP...OOFER-DIGITAL-CAR-AMPLIFIER-NEW-/120887237468
 
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I'd rather just keep them together considering I already have a box for them. I'd hate to have to spend more money to buy a box for a single sub and go through the hassle of selling the other one when I don't think they're even worth very much considering they're probably close to 5 years old. They're in great shape and my brother only used them for a few weeks. It's a long story how he got them and never used them for that long. I also posted the serial number in a post above somewhere. It's serial no. is C60410264S. It also says SWR-1042D above that.
 
yeah these guys are on a good road, im better with kicker stuff so not exactly sure on tips that alpine does. also when you have the RMS wattage you want, and know the voice coils 2 or 4, you can just search on how to wire them online. there are very helpful diagrams on google.
 
I have 1, 12-inch Type R dual 2 ohm sub in a ported box and it is more sub than I could ever need. I took it from my friend who had 2 of them in a custom made ported box in the trunk of his grand cherokee, those were almost unbearable.

I have a 500 watt Alpine MRP-M500

When my friend had the 2 of them together he had the same amp only the 1000 watt version.
 
[MENTION=14772]shootmymime[/MENTION] kicker ftw! I went from a 12" type R to a 12" CVR with the same amp and there is no comparison!

Back on topic. Alpine SWR-1042D Type-R 10" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.comThis is what you have. Dual voice coil 4ohm. The best combo in my opinion. Gives you alot of options as to how you wire it. Also for what its worth I would sell one and get a single box. With two tens you will have to keep your bass levels pretty low unless you hate your ears.
 
Any links to specific amps you would run if you were to keep them together? I don't mind keeping the bass turned down low, and I enjoy loud music, so that's not an issue for me. I just need an amp that will function properly with the both of them.
 
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Alright, I'll try to help you out here and figure out what amp I think would work best for you, first I need to know a couple more things about your install, 1st, what size of wire do you plan on running for power and ground, and second what kind of box are the subs in (Custom ported, Prefab ported or sealed?)
 
I have 6 GA cables that I've already installed, but if you really recommend running something else, they're not too expensive and not too difficult to rerun. I don't know if 6 GA is overkill on the size, but that's what I have. No idea what kind of box it is, but this looks exactly like the one I have. (If you haven't noticed, I'm a complete noob when it comes to this kind of stuff, but I'm not picky at all about the system. I just got a lot of the stuff for free, and I'm just trying to get it together). The box that they came in looks exactly like this, except the connections are on the back and it has some insulation on the inside.

images
 
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I could be wrong but the box doesn't matter to what amp you pick as long as its within spec of the sub.

As far as amps go, with the length of wire you have to run and using 6 gauge wire I wouldn't go over 750w. Even that is pushing it in my opinion. The only reason I wont say "use this amp" is because everyone has their own opinion on what is best and I've used multiple different brands with good results. So in conclusion, get a class D amp somewhere between 500-750 amps. Stick to a good brand. JL audio, Kicker, Alpine. Soundstream if you really want to dive into your wallet.

Here are a few examples (note that they do recommend atleast 4gauge wire, as do I, if not more)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDXM6/Alpine-PDX-M6.html?tp=35834

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XD6001/JL-Audio-XD600-1.html?tp=35834
 
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I have 6 GA cables that I've already installed. Probably overkill on the size, but that's what I have. No idea what kind of box it is, but this looks exactly like the one I have. (If you haven't noticed, I'm a complete noob when it comes to this kind of stuff, but I'm not picky at all about the system. I just got a lot of the stuff for free, and I'm just trying to get it together). The box that they came in looks exactly like this, except the connections are on the back and it has some insulation on the inside.

images

Alright that helps a lot, in this case the cables are going to be your limiting factor when it comes to which amp you choose, Over the distance of a run in a 4runner (around 17-19 feet usually) 6 gauge will be good for around 80A worth of draw.

Since they are going to be in a sealed box, I would definitely say, you would not want to go over rated RMS, and you'll want to be easy on them, the older Type R's are more suited for ported boxes.

All things considered, you're definitely going to want to look for as close to 1000W RMS as possible at a 1 ohm load, definitely Class D, since they work more efficiently and therefore need less input power.

My choice would be this amp:

Hifonics ZRX1000.1D 1000W Max Class D Monoblock Zeus Series Amp

I've had quite a few Hifonics amps in the past, and they are normally more efficient than many of the other budget brands out there, this particular amp might not do rated power, but it will do at least 800 RMS, which should be plenty for the Type R's sealed.
 
I could be wrong but the box doesn't matter to what amp you pick as long as its within spec of the sub.

As far as amps go, with the length of wire you have to run and using 6 gauge wire I wouldn't go over 750w. Even that is pushing it in my opinion. The only reason I wont say "use this amp" is because everyone has their own opinion on what is best and I've used multiple different brands with good results. So in conclusion, get a class D amp somewhere between 500-750 amps. Stick to a good brand. JL audio, Kicker, Alpine. Soundstream if you really want to dive into your wallet.

Here are a few examples (note that they do recommend atleast 4gauge wire, as do I, if not more)
Alpine PDX-M6 Mono sub amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

JL Audio XD600/1 Mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms at Crutchfield.com

While those are very nice amps, spending that much on an amp without a extremely high quality source unit, and better subs is kind of throwing money in the toilet honestly.
 
While those are very nice amps, spending that much on an amp without a extremely high quality source unit, and better subs is kind of throwing money in the toilet honestly.

Agreed on the source bit, but personally i've seen to many cheaper amps either sound like garbage or blow up to complain about an extra 200. Plus it leaves room for upgrades.

I would like to echo your point on getting as close to 1000w rms at 1 ohm though. Thats definitely the best way to go about it. I just think running 6 gauge to a 1000w is not the best idea.
 

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