Another AC Problem

[Fuzzy Fingers]

Have you had any luck with this Fuzzy? Im pretty much relying on this thread to diagnose my problem because the small town I live in I dont trust the mechanics at all.

Well I think I've figured it out. Replaced the amplifier and still not help. Went back to thermistor in the side of the evaporator box. Drop the glove box and bottom piece under the glove box and you'll see the carrier with a blue wire wedged in there. The blue cover has two wires in it and has a connection right there that is fitted to a brace of evap box.

Purchased another one and put it this time with the tab pointing up. Well it seems this part needs to be in the exactly the correct position or it will continue to cycle incorrectly. Now it is just a little further back from the evap coil. It cycles normally and I can hang meat in my 4runner, finally. When running fresh air, I literally get a steady stream of water out of drain line. Very efficient system.

PM me if you need pics and I'll get you on or two. Pain to get the carrier out the first time. DON'T BREAK IT! You apparently can't get the carrier without buying a whole new box or going to the junk yard.

Here's your part number.
[ 6 ] HVAC / AIR CONDITIONER & HEATER / EVAPORATOR & HEATER COMPONENTS / Thermistor
Part Number: 8862535050

thermistor
PARTS: Part included with evaporator assy. MSRP Core ? Online Price
$16.39 $0.00 $11.62
2003 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Toyota Parts Superstore

Good luck with your 4runner!

Post Note: The position of the sensor makes a difference. When tab is straight up, I nearly froze my core. Trying next position.

 

[zonianbrat]

This is awesome Fuzzy. If you could get me some pics it would be greatly appreciated as I am not sure what I am looking at as far as the tab etc. We are getting into the colder weather here but I would still like to fix this problem asap. Thank you very much for figuring this out. If this works and finally fixes my phantom ac issue I will be sure to buy you a beer if you are ever out this way.

 

[snowboardwcu]

:clap2: :clap2: :clap2: :whoo:
glad to see you've figured it out. so rewarding to see this.

 

[Fuzzy Fingers]

this is awesome fuzzy. If you could get me some pics it would be greatly appreciated as i am not sure what i am looking at as far as the tab etc. We are getting into the colder weather here but i would still like to fix this problem asap. Thank you very much for figuring this out. If this works and finally fixes my phantom ac issue i will be sure to buy you a beer if you are ever out this way.

Screw driver points to the carrier. The connection top pops out.

The placement seems to be very important. I had mine rotated 90 degre clockwise and nearly froze my evap coil. My tab broke when I removed it but the carrier is still intact. I'd like to see the how the carrier is placed into the box. I do not remember the position of mine. Let me know how yours is set up or send a picture before you remove it. I'd appreciate it.

 

[dirty monkey]

So I wrapped the wrong pipe, Been awhile since i worked on an AC system. I will do a recording of the thermometer in the A/C vent, it will be a week of testing. :rofl:


before



after.

 

[Fuzzy Fingers]

Well,
Problem still exists. While the last tech believed it was electrical, the evap is still getting to cold like there is a restriction in the line not allowing enough freon into the evaporator. Nothing else it can be.

 

[zonianbrat]

Darn! I might still try this fix on my week off coming up. I also have been told that evap can get plugged with growth. Is there a way to get a boroscope into it to see if anything is growing in there? I think BG makes an aerasol that you spray into the inlet to kill growth. I could be wrong though. I have been once before!!

 

[Fuzzy Fingers]

Replaced condenser today. Denso part from Amazon. $70 to my door. Moved to desperation at this point. It acts like a restriction but the gauges tell another story of perfection. Vacuumed it down for an hour after install. Dumped 22 oz in which is 1.37. Max is 1.41 lbs. System is still cycling off excessively due to the evaporator getting to cold. EVERYTHING points to a low flow into the evaporator.

I did the site glass check test. The truck tests like it is over charged. Refrigerant remains clear after compressor shuts off. Why would it do this? Maybe the High pressure line has something stuck in it?

 

[Gag405]

View attachment 175695
Screw driver points to the carrier. The connection top pops out.

The placement seems to be very important. I had mine rotated 90 degre clockwise and nearly froze my evap coil. My tab broke when I removed it but the carrier is still intact. I'd like to see the how the carrier is placed into the box. I do not remember the position of mine. Let me know how yours is set up or send a picture before you remove it. I'd appreciate it.

Do you turn it to remove it or does it pop out? I tried and couldnt get it out. What did you use a small flat screwdriver or needle nose pliers. Thanks for your help

 

[thirdelement]

i have the same issue, was there ever a solve for this?
seems like the OP changed out everything...

 

[Captsolo]

2003 V8 SR5 2WD with 150K.
Used the search button zealously and did find some solutions. Unfortunately, the didn't work for my issue. Started off with cold air then barely cool air then cold air. Had system vacuumed down and recharged. Still happened. Found the thread on the Evaporator Case Sensor and replaced it. Still cycling.
Had my buddy bring out his gauges and assorted toys to check through it again. Appeared to be over charged somewhat so bled it down. Ultimately, when running max ac and running fan on high, the compressor doesn't cycle. If I reduce the fan, the duct temp (close to the core) gets to 45 degrees, the compressor cycles off. Warms a little then compressor kicks back on and so forth. If I am using fresh air, I can reduce fan speed but the air is fairly warm since its 90 plus outside. We watched for pressure changes for the expansion valve doing anything. We were unable to see any dip in pressure as it got colder in the evap case, then the sensor would open and cycle the compressor. Ultimately, the evap case is getting too cold.

There doesn't seem to be a leak anywhere and pressures on high and low side were good when running at 1500 RPM and and idle. I don't understand the expansion valve function but the current guess is the valve is stuck open and unable to close. Anyone with any ideas? Moisture in system? Blockage? (Doesn't seem to be the case based on pressure)

Run dye in your system and drive for two weeks. That will find the leak. If you are on original compressor you need a new one. Amazon can sell you a Denso for $190.

I have 2005 SR5 with 150,000 miles, and had to buy AC compressor.

System has to be evacuated with proper machine or you could ruin the new compressor. Find some inexpensive AC shop.

I've had good AC for a year. No more endless recharges for $60 that do nothing.:flamethrwoer2: