Another Full-Length Roof Rack Option -PrinSu

[DenverTrailRunner]

The supplied washer are for over the rack mounting position and were not meant to fit into the drip rail. I have used the plus nuts before and it's much better to cinch them down while it's easy to access than when you have the rack in position.

Here are a few. I don't like my light bar in that position so I will move it to the center in front of the air deflector.

I switched out the allens with Torx security screws.

Thanks for sharing your install tips. I have mine on order and should receive it early June, this leaves me with a lot more confidence in the drilling portion. And I purchased the hole punch you recommended as well. Will be visiting this thread in a few weeks I am sure!

Sent from my SM-G925P using Tapatalk

 

[AlrighT4R]

The supplied washer are for over the rack mounting position and were not meant to fit into the drip rail. I have used the plus nuts before and it's much better to cinch them down while it's easy to access than when you have the rack in position.

Here are a few. I don't like my light bar in that position so I will move it to the center in front of the air deflector.

Thanks for the reply. I think i messaged you on IG too. I recognized the white painted rails. Looks great. Good call on the security screws. Id probably do the same.

 

[Seattle206]

Looks nice! I think it would look killer if you can cut out the fairing and incorporate the light bar.

 

[TK-422]

Looks nice! I think it would look killer if you can cut out the fairing and incorporate the light bar.

You can get them precut with 30" or 42" cutouts on top. This works great for single row light bars. The cutout is only about 3/4" so it wouldn't do much for this large and curved double row light bar.

 

[marshal]

i just ordered mine (was supposed to be on the very first shipment, but life got in the way). also ordered my faring with the 42" cut out for a 40" single stack. not sold on their Heretic Studios bars, so I'm opting to source my own rigid R40

 

[Low-Tek]

the front mounting points are bolted in using a plusnut. The 3/4" spacer is passing through the weather stripping.

lol nooooooooooope

 

[TK-422]

lol nooooooooooope

Why ya chicken? :infidel:
If done carefully it looks factory.

 

[MayorBloom]

a few questions about this rack (full length)....

Why does it seem to kick out as is goes front to rear? The side bar is directly over the channel in the front, but images make it look like it sticks out in the rear an inch or so.

Has anyone figured out the weight capacity (static and dynamic)?

 

[craaaazzy]

a few questions about this rack (full length)....



Why does it seem to kick out as is goes front to rear? The side bar is directly over the channel in the front, but images make it look like it sticks out in the rear an inch or so.



Has anyone figured out the weight capacity (static and dynamic)?

I can tell u the roof gets narrower towards the rear.

 

[carlomagne]

Has anyone ever considered using a neo magnet mount instead of drilling?

K&J Magnetics: MMR-A-ZC

While most full racks continue to use the 4 original OEM mounts and 2 additional fronts, I see on some racks, it's just double sided tape and others, like the Prinsu, require drilling.
To me, doesn't seem like there's that much "pull" to compensate for if some manufacturers are using double sided tape to hold down their front feet and why these neo mag mounts wouldn't work as a substitute. The 3.75" magnet has a pull of 151 lbs each. I can't imagine double sided tape having that much strength.
Again, I'm not a mechanical engineer nor do I play one on TV but seems like a potentially viable no drill option if "securing" the front feet is all that is required. How much securing????

Seems like a reasonable option for any full-length racks. Can any engineers chime in on this? Would there be any damage prying off these magnets afterward?

 

[dieck]

Does anybody have a pic of the factory roof rack bolt locations after the prinsu install?

I think I'm clear on the front drilling and plus nut.

On the rear factory locations though is there just a gap in the gutter guard?

I'm getting ready to do my install and am going to try to make it look as clean as possible.

This is the only pic I've been able to find, it looks like there is just a gap.

 

[p_j_o]

Seems like a reasonable option for any full-length racks. Can any engineers chime in on this? Would there be any damage prying off these magnets afterward?

Funny I was thinking the same thing as I have a full length rack that has been sitting in my garage from the TW GB waiting for work to allow me to have enough time to install it out:

I have to check the measurements of the front feet but this may be the way i go - just add some clear paint protection film underneath where the magnet sits and :jump:

pjo

 

[p_j_o]

Does anybody have a pic of the factory roof rack bolt locations after the prinsu install?

I think I'm clear on the front drilling and plus nut.

On the rear factory locations though is there just a gap in the gutter guard?

I'm getting ready to do my install and am going to try to make it look as clean as possible.

This is the only pic I've been able to find, it looks like there is just a gap.

dieck did you check the latest instructions? I noticed they have been updated...

Keep us updated I might actually get some time to install this bad boy sometime in the next 2 weeks, although I think I might look into the magnet solution over the plus nut...

pjo

 

[dieck]

Oh, those are updated since I downloaded mine, thanks for the tip! Still though, there are no pics of the finished install and I don't notice any specific mention of the gaps. I'd still like to know what this looks like and if debris piles up in there over time. It seems like maybe I should buy a replacement moulding an punch holes in it like the front.

dieck did you check the latest instructions? I noticed they have been updated...

Keep us updated I might actually get some time to install this bad boy sometime in the next 2 weeks, although I think I might look into the magnet solution over the plus nut...

pjo

 

[dieck]

I have an unhealthy addiction to high powered magnets and try all kinds of applications. My brake controller mounts to my truck with strong magnets, as do my guns in my gun safe.

The problem with magnets in these applications is that their strength decreases logarithmically with their distance from the metal surface. And for a strong neodymium magnet to achieve it's full rated strength, it needs more metal than the sheet metal of a car.

If you look at the electromagnetic door locks used in commercial settings that have 600+ pounds of holding force, they have a heavy 1/2 inch metal backing plate they connect to. And if you give the door a swift kick or put your shoulder into it just enough to slightly move the magnet it loses strength and just pops open. The forces of a 100lb load on the front when bouncing around off road or a tree branch would pop those little magnets off.

It would be a fun myth busters experiment. If only the show wasn't cancelled.

Funny I was thinking the same thing as I have a full length rack that has been sitting in my garage from the TW GB waiting for work to allow me to have enough time to install it out:

I have to check the measurements of the front feet but this may be the way i go - just add some clear paint protection film underneath where the magnet sits and :jump:

pjo

 

[TK-422]

There is about a 4" gap but unless you are 6' 11" you would never see them. They are covered by the mounting tab anyway. I also thought about getting a replacement molding just to make it cleaner but it wasn't cheap.

there are no pics of the finished install and I don't notice any specific mention of the gaps. I'd still like to know what this looks like and if debris piles up in there over time. It seems like maybe I should buy a replacement moulding an punch holes in it like the front.

 

[MayorBloom]

Does anyone think the roof rack delete kit would fill the gap?

 

[TK-422]

I don't think it would work. It has a bracket that is bolted down using those holes. If you left out the bolts and drilled 3/4" holes thru the top part and bracket for the spacers then snapped it together it would probably bounce around.

Also if you drilled 3/4" holes in the bracket for the spacers the bracket might fall apart.

 

[JimInTN]

Just ordered up my prinsu. I've liked the look and functionality of it...and well...because screw gobi!

I'm excited to get it here and customize it.

 

[MayorBloom]

Sorry for the lack of a pic, but I did drill holes in the delete covers and with the silicone they are covering the gap. I will post pics when I have a chance. And FWIW be careful when putting the rack together. I my have gotten a bad bolt but I had one snap off in the rail. Tried to drill it out using a removal tip and no luck. Then f*ing around with it snapped another.

Still waiting on Zach to get back to me.

Will update with pics