(Another) Starter Contacts Removal Thread!

Thanks for the writeup. My wife's car has been doing this exact thing and I was about to have the starter replaced until I read this. I am thinking I may try it on my own this weekend.

I am very much a novice at this stuff, the most I have done is oil changes and replacing radios. Is there any lubricant or cleaner needed or is it as simple as removing the parts indicated and then replacing them?

It sounds like a breaker bar would be a good help, is it worth buying one for this project? I have a socket set but no extensions or anything other than the normal stuff.

I'm a little concerned about the bolts being tough to get out because this 4runner is a 4WD and while it hasn't been mudding or anything strenuous it is a '97 with a little over 300k miles so it is bound to have some rust.

Lash mine had 245k or so and it was easy and it has been wheel a few times. A swivel and a few ext. will make the job a lot easyer. The best why is to remove the right front wheel and and remove the top half of the dip stick to make the job easy.
 
I just did this on my '99 5-speed V6 4Runner. My truck has the smaller 1.4kw Denso starter as do most 5-speeds. I went with this kit on Amazon for plunger and contacts and they fit perfectly. Less than $12 and Prime-eligible.

Amazon.com: Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit: Automotive


Pulling the starter on a 5-speed is relatively painless. It comes right out pulling it towards the rear over the rack and cross-member. No exhaust bracket or tranny dipstick to remove, or any need to touch the swaybar. The black connector was a minor pain. I found it easier to unbolt the starter and the big power cable, and then maneuver the black connector to where it was easier to get my hands and tools on it. Tip: the starter bolts are 14mm and the other tranny bolts are larger (wrench sizes), so use a 14, and if it doesn't fit, your wrenching on the wrong bolt!
 
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I just did this on my '99 5-speed V6 4Runner. My truck has the smaller 1.4kw Denso starter as do most 5-speeds. I went with this kit on Amazon for plunger and contacts and they fit perfectly. Less than $12 and Prime-eligible.

Amazon.com: Victory Lap ND-34SOL Solenoid Repair Kit: Automotive


Pulling the starter on a 5-speed is relatively painless. It comes right out pulling it towards the rear over the rack and cross-member. No exhaust bracket or tranny dipstick to remove, or any need to touch the swaybar. The black connector was a minor pain. I found it easier to unbolt the starter and the big power cable, and then maneuver the black connector to where it was easier to get my hands and tools on it. Tip: the starter bolts are 14mm and the other tranny bolts are larger (wrench sizes), so use a 14, and if it doesn't fit, your wrenching on the wrong bolt!

I installed that exact kit, purchased from a local auto parts sore, about five years ago now. It seemed like good quality at the time, and I've had no issues since.
 
It's a little different.....one of the contacts is the same the other is offset.
P/N's
28235-54380 Plunger magnet switch
28226-54340 Kit starter repair
28226-72010 Starter kit

:cheers:

Anyone have the parts # for the contacts and the plunger, I believe my starter is orginal and with 116k on the odo I dont feeling like changing them out in the winter with no garage. I'm looking for oem

Are these the correct part numbers for a '99 2WD V6 auto?

Are these really the part numbers for a 4x4, 3.4L V6 3rd Gen (1998)? Would be incredibly helpful if someone could confirm. All I have to do is get these and I'll be good to go?
yes the parts listed in the top quote are the correct part numbers for the rebuild.

plunger, magnet switch pn- 28235-54380
starter kit pn- 2822672010
kit, repair service pn- 58226-54340
starter invoice.jpg
 

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I just bought my 99 4runner about a week ago and noticed it had this problem a couple days after I got it home. Picked up the contacts (with no plunger) at the dealership for ~$30. I recommend trying to maneuver the starter out and working on it in a cleaner environment than an engine bay. Once you get the bolts off, it's really just an extra few minutes of trying to work the starter out, and it will save you time in the long run. I also recommend replacing the plunger while your at it. Thanks for the writeup! Took me about 3 hours.
 
Did this a few months ago. Impact and proper tools and had it out in under an hour. Maybe like 30 min back in in under 1.5 hrs.
 
I just bought my 99 4runner about a week ago and noticed it had this problem a couple days after I got it home. Picked up the contacts (with no plunger) at the dealership for ~$30. I recommend trying to maneuver the starter out and working on it in a cleaner environment than an engine bay. Once you get the bolts off, it's really just an extra few minutes of trying to work the starter out, and it will save you time in the long run. I also recommend replacing the plunger while your at it. Thanks for the writeup! Took me about 3 hours.

at which local dealership did you buy the starter contacts?

I have to do this soon...
 
Step 4: There are 2 connections to the starter itself. The yellow arrow points to a plastic cover over one of them, and the blue arrow points to a kind-of clipped-in connection. Remove the plastic cover and unclip the smaller black connector. Both of which might be easier to do coming from below the frame.
step04connectorremoval.jpg

What's the trick to removing the gray plastic cover from the yellow wire, as well as unclipping the smaller black connector?

Do I just pry the gray plastic cover and tug a bit more? I figure it's brittle, and so I didn't want to pry and pull too hard for now...

Exactly where do I unclip the smaller black connector?
 
Many thanks to the OP

[MENTION=26530]CoMarc[/MENTION] great write up! I tackled this job myself over the weekend and definitely needed this. Pictures sure help with a job like this :yo:
 
Just used this thread to replace my contacts. Took about 5 hours. I struggled taking the bolts off for the exhaust bracket. After 45 mins of differnt extensions and angles, oh and a bike ride to autozone, I was only able to get one off. I decided to try and get the starter bolts out with out removing the exhaust bolts. I was able to remove the starter bolts with no problem. Just my experience...
Thanks so much for the write up OP!
 
thanks so much for this

I changed both contacts and cleaned out the starter on my 99 4runner sr5. I couldn't have done it without this thread. I had a hard time buying the parts at the local dealership...they didn't want to sell them to me probably because I'm a woman, and they wanted to make a bunch of $ replacing the entire starter. You should have seen their faces when I went back in there to get a new gasket to re attach the cat converter. I couldn't resist ;)
thanks for the clear directions
 
Thank-you_!

I printed the entire thread out and executed your steps - mostly in order. I have to say that the exaust bracket bolt I fought that one for seemingly forever (what I wouldn't have done for an impact wrench...) but all worked out. :banana:

Your documentation was friggin outstanding - thanks much !
 
Thanks very much for posting how to repair the starter.
Mine recently began acting up so I bought the parts to repair the starter and 3 hours later it was done. Wish it would've taken a hour but I found the space tight and better suited to smaller forearms and left handed mechanics.
 
I just unbolted the starter and did the repair with the starter still in the vehicle! No need to take it out of the vehicle. Not bad at all! The trick is unclipping the mud flap guards in the inner passenger fender, then smooth sailing. Took 2 hours. I got the contacts at my Toyota dealer. They had 3 different styles, and I just bought two of each, and returned the ones I didn't use.

After unbolting the starter bolts (use 2 long extensions 6" or more with 1/2 drive/and the largest ratchet you have with swivel, remove the trans stick, unbolt the brakeline), you can twist the started around to face the passenger side wheel well. This lets you remove the 3 bolts on the solenoid cover:
starter_cap_on.jpg


With cap off. The bottom contact is the one that wears out and the one that everyone is replacing:
starter_cap_off.jpg


I only replaced the bad contact, as the other was barely worn. Comparo of old and new contact. Crazy how much the plunger dug into it over time:
contacts_old_new.jpg


Next, I put some brake cleaner on a rag and wiped out the inside and installed the new contact, on bottom in photo:
starte_clean.jpg


After two hours, this is what I was left with:
hands.jpg


:) Remember, you DO NOT have to remove the starter to do this repair. All I did was buy contacts from the dealer, nothing else. I did this back in 2010 and still going strong.
 
Just took mine off and put all new toyota contact kits as well as the plunger in it.
FYI it will come out of the hole thought the fender. No need to work on it all confined up in there. I didn't even unbolt the exhaust bracket. I did everything but that. With long extensions you can unbolt it from underneath. It will only slide out one way between the frame and the back side of the fender though. Put the motor on the bottom and the gear side facing your engine and it will slide out. All together from start to finish took me a Hour or so on a 2002 4runner 186K. Here are the toyota part numbers:
28235-54380 plunger
28226-54340 contact kit
28226-72010 contact kit
Cost me $46 for all of it at Capital Toyota in Chattanooga, TN.
So far seems to have fixed the problem mine was doing.

Some people say that the plunger isn't necessary but comparing it to the new one it had very noticeable wear on it.
 
How in the world do you get the black clip off that the blue arrow is pointing at? I've been trying for 30 minutes and all that happens is that the entire black clip assembly comes out of the hole it's mounted in on the starter.
 

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