ANTMAN'S Thread

I am now an OFFICIAL poser!!!!

Bilstein 5100's all the way around and SAW 1.5" rear coils! Many have done it, now I can join the crowd. Yippeeeeeeeeeeee!

First of all a giant "Thank You!" is needed (YOU know who you are...:thumb:)



Technical info and unofficial measurements at the wheelwells first, because I know you guys like that sort of thing:

Bilstein front shocks at 2.5"

SAW rear 1.5" coils with 5100's

Airlift 1000 rear airbags.

Duratrac's- 265/70R17- E rated on Level8 Guardian wheels

Fender liners pulled forward.

Nothing rubs at all.

Front Drivers: 38"
Front Pass : 38 1/8"
Rear Drivers : 38 5/8
Rear Pass : 39"

Things still need to settle a little bit, and the alignment is tomorrow.

The ride is a million times better. Smoother, quieter, more stable, no more dive, no more wander. It's like a new truck, but better!

Before:




After: (The forward rake you see in the pic has been reduced quite a bit after some driving!)




I used the same method as installing the top spacer.

No spring compressor needed for the front.

It worked like a charm for the front (again)! The rear springs went right in with some "jack induced articulation" and the airbags are easier the second time around. A quick note about the airbags. They are NOT fragile. Beat those suckers into submission and cram 'em into place. I basically stepped on the bags, forcing most of the air out and then I found a small cap for the nozzle. With the bag compressed, I shoved it into the spring and took off the cap. The bag self inflates right into position. Easy peasy!


Some install photos:


Stock with bags (I installed the rear 5100's a week ago)








Spring differences:





New springs installed with bags:







Just the rear finished last night!




All in all it looks pretty normal under there for going on 2 years, BUT- There was some rust that was, what I would consider, a little worse that it should be. Nothing to be overly concerned with though.

Under the panhard bar (where it mounts) was pitted pretty badly (no pic because I hit my head and got pissed for a while LOL). The spare tire lowering mechanism looked like this. I sprayed both with rustoleum rust converter, along with anything else that wasn't pretty.





On to the front:









In went a lamb- out came the LION!


















Continued:
 
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And lastly-

To celebrate my suspension victory, up for grabs is a well loved Toytec Top Plate Spacer kit. FREE to the first person to PM me. You pay shipping though!

**EDIT** They are gone (took all of 20 minutes). Vultures!!!!!




Happy Modding! A/M
 
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You stole my exact lift setup! :dammit:

If you lived closer, I go check and see if my parts are missing from my house, lol. I literally have all the same exact parts minus the front coils, and we both have mag grey, how cute :sadwave:

The lift height looks perfect, great minds think alike :cheers:
 
How was your alignment after the lift? :thumb:

Well- It drives straight as an arrow, brakes in a straight line and the steering wheel is straight.:der:

My alignment is scheduled for tomorrow at 2pm. If you look closely at the pics I definitely have a bit of positive camber right now. That'll be fixed soon enough!
 
Jeff truck looks good. I can see this picture this time in the cove but the truck is grey and someone else behind the wheel like (Dave) on your truck.
alex+t4r-albums-2013+t4r-picture20675-covevaoct201227uhoh.jpg
 
Hey Jeff! thank you for this! what great timing because I myself have 4 5100's en route to the homestead here as I type this...thanks for sharing that post from sp8ball - I am going to give that a go myself instead of getting bent over by a shop to have it done....any other tips or lessons learned from when you did your install??
 
....any other tips or lessons learned from when you did your install??

Yes- tons of tips! Let me jot them down while it's all still fresh...

**Front-

Jack the truck up high enough to allow the lower arms to sufficiently drop when prying (high as you can).

I removed the swaybar endlinks completely this time. Less in the way, and only 1 more bolt anyway.

If doing the install by yourself(like me) wedge a hunk of 2x4 between the lower control arm and the bumpstop after you pry it down as far as you can. This gives you hands free room to work.

When you install the 5100's, place just the spring in place first by feeding it up between the swaybar, tie rod and CV. THEN feed the shock body, the same way, through the coil spring. At that point you can properly orient the spring on the bottom perch and the top cushion. Trying to fight the entire assembly at once is a PITA.

Use a prybar to help locate the bottom shock bolt and a long punch to line up the hole (from the backside)so you can feed the bolt through the hole. It will be under slight pressure (from the lower control arm pushing up on it) so it doesn't just slide into place. This part gets easier with practice, unfortunately. Took me 30 minutes first time- after 3 installs I did it today in 3 minutes LOL.

Use the punch to drive out the shock bolts and sway bar bolts so you don't mess up the threads.

Make a checklist for all the bolts you loosen and have the torque specs ready and available (see the writeup)before you start!



**Rear (spring installation)



Once again, jack the truck up as high as you can.

Remove the spare tire. DO IT or you will not have room to work easily. I was able to sit comfortably and work with it out.

Disconnect the rear swaybar links and the shocks while supporting the rear end with a jack or it will drop.

I disconnected the panhard rod at the axle and strap-tied it to the frame out of the way until I was done.

You MUST pay attention to the flexible brake lines (driver's side) and the ABS wires (Pass side) that run from the frame to the axle. You do not want to stretch them. The ABS lines have a bracket right next to the exhaust that you can take off and then you can reach up and unplug the connection. That way you won't have to worry about that side while you flex the springs out. The brake hoses you will need to watch!

To remove the springs, I jacked up one side of the axle as high as possible and the spring on the opposite side will fall out. The key is the angle of the axle. As one side goes up, the other drops. There is plenty of room to get longer springs in there through articulation. Have jackstands handy to keep the axle from dropping too far and pulling on those brake hoses.

Make sure the springs are seated against the stop on the bottom, and in the "cup" at the top.

Bottom of shock on first, and then PUSH! down to move the top into place.


I think that's it?

More if I think of it.

I had fun doing it!
 
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Dang it! I'm getting my Bilsteins installed this Friday, and now I'm second guessing my .85 only, in the front.

Maybe I should go all out, and do 2.5" with SAW's.... ARGGGHHH!!!!
 
Jeff! It really looks great, how is mrs. Antman handling the altitude? Does she like it too?

Thanks pal!

Well, she came home from work, looked at it and said: "I really don't see anything different..."

I don't think she'll like the added height when it's time to climb aboard, but It's a small price to pay to keep me happy, right?:whistle:

PS- My 3 yr old saw it and said: "Woooow! Cool truck Dada!!" She gets it.
 
Inexpensive sound deadener


I threw in some sound deadener- on the cheap!- today. I read this post the other day from Whitson Metalworks:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/148019-sound-deadner.html#post1450331

I figured I would give this stuff a try. I already have some sound deadener in my doors so I have a little experience with this type of material. It looks the same, smells the same, sticks the same, is it the same? I dunno. The resonance on the rear floor is completely gone if you tap on it with a hammer though.











It's definitely a little thinner so I doubled it up. If you heat it VERY briefly with a torch/heat gun and press it into place it adheres to any angle/contortion with ease, just like the other stuff.

Big difference is price. It would have cost probably $200 to do this area with any other sound deadener. This stuff is 16 bucks per 6" x25' roll. 2 rolls are just enough to do the entire cargo floor that you see here at 2 layers!

So $32 at Lowes versus $200. Even if it only works half as good I figure I'm still ahead. I'll reserve judgement after some wheel time.

A/M
 
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