ANTMAN'S Thread

[MENTION=36159]Mtn.Rush[/MENTION]
[/QUOTE]

Those camera photos are from a camera magazine sandbagger, who you trying to kid? I mean really with your skills there is no way you took clear photos of a camera that was alledgedly used to take clear photos. Your burying yourself here....each lie brings you closer to the truth.

That video was great though, funny Sh!t, good stuff.
 
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so you recommend then once I have the spring removed from the OEM shocks NOT having them seated on the 5100's by the shop but rather to keep them separate and install separate then?
 
so you recommend then once I have the spring removed from the OEM shocks NOT having them seated on the 5100's by the shop but rather to keep them separate and install separate then?

I prefer not to recommend anything, really. :)

There are risks associated with coil springs that you need to be aware of (basically they can kill you).

That's how I did it though- 3 times now.

If we can work out a mutually convenient time I would be happy to help you in the A/M garage! You would just need to get an alignment afterwords... J
 
Inexpensive sound deadener


I threw in some sound deadener- on the cheap!- today. I read this post the other day from Whitson Metalworks:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/148019-sound-deadner.html#post1450331

I figured I would give this stuff a try. I already have some sound deadener in my doors so I have a little experience with this type of material. It looks the same, smells the same, sticks the same, is it the same? I dunno. The resonance on the rear floor is completely gone if you tap on it with a hammer

It's definitely a little thinner so I doubled it up. If you heat it VERY briefly with a torch/heat gun and press it into place it adheres to any angle/contortion with ease, just like the other stuff.

Big difference is price. It would have cost probably $200 to do this area with any other sound deadener. This stuff is 16 bucks per 6" x25' roll. 2 rolls are just enough to do the entire cargo floor that you see here at 2 layers!

So $32 at Lowes versus $200. Even if it only works half as good I figure I'm still ahead. I'll reserve judgement after some wheel time.

A/M
that stuff is asphalt, not butyl-based, however, isn't it?
 
that stuff is asphalt, not butyl-based, however, isn't it?

Yes- mixed reviews all over the Internet. Some love it and say it works perfectly, others say it stinks when it gets hot and slides off.

I can tell you that so far I haven't smelled a thing- and I've purposely left the windows up. That back floor gets pretty darn hot too with the exhaust under there. There is also NO WAY this stuff is coming off.

I don't have data yet to say "go for it" but so far it's working for me.
 
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Cargo Area Voltmeter Gauge


Just a quick little project today to keep tabs on battery voltage while using the rear 12V outlet.

First, I wired the rear outlet to be "hot" all the time. It seemed pretty useless to me wired for "ignition only" the way it comes from the factory. Anyone that chooses to do this should know that it's very easy. There are 2 wires at the plug, green and white/black. Leave the white/black wire alone. Cut the green wire on the outlet plug and connect it to a 12V source (I have 8 GA power running into the cargo area already so I tapped into that). YOU MUST FUSE THE HOT WIRE! Also, don't forget to insulate the factory green power feed so it doesn't short out against the inner fender.

Anyway- back to the MOD-

I picked up the gauge from Harbor Freight for $5. I didn't want the gauge to be on all the time so I wired it with a simple push on/off switch. When the switch is "on" the gauge lights up and shows the current voltage (at the 12V plug). The plug itself stays hot all the time regardless of switch position.

I took the outlet completely apart so I could solder the wires for the gauge directly to it. This way, if I want to take the panel out all I have to do is disconnect the factory connection and I'm good to go!

Pics:
























 
You suck. You know every time you come up with one of these it means less time for activities when I get around to coming down there. So much for mountain biking...
 
Lol, ScanGauge in front and voltmeter in the back : ) but looks good and I like the idea.
By the way the other day I was looking for a fire extinguisher and realize that I didn't see its mount in your built thread. Hopefully when you get to it I will be simply mod and I will be able to the same : )
 
Lol, ScanGauge in front and voltmeter in the back : ) but looks good and I like the idea.
By the way the other day I was looking for a fire extinguisher and realize that I didn't see its mount in your built thread. Hopefully when you get to it I will be simply mod and I will be able to the same : )

Thanks for that! I have been meaning to get to a fire extinguisher for a while now. Maybe that'll be next...:)
 
Did someone say Mountain Biking?

You suck. You know every time you come up with one of these it means less time for activities when I get around to coming down there. So much for mountain biking...

Keep me in the loop if you guys decided to ride some of the "mountains" around here. Haven't been out on my bike since I left Utah.
 
I've been looking to do an always hot 12v outlet(I wired my scanner to the fuse block and almost burned up my 4runner). What fuse would you recommend? I keep all sorts in my 4runner now that I've broken down 3 times blowing EFI fuses. Thanks in advance, you do great mods, sir!
 
I've been looking to do an always hot 12v outlet(I wired my scanner to the fuse block and almost burned up my 4runner). What fuse would you recommend? I keep all sorts in my 4runner now that I've broken down 3 times blowing EFI fuses. Thanks in advance, you do great mods, sir!

You can use any inline fuse holder, or accessory fuse block you may have.

Just dont exceed a 15a fuse with the factory outlet.
 
Geeez fella, just quit your job and work for Toyota R & D program and all things modded section, I mean really. Thats some real good stuff there.
 

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