Any benefit to doing timing belt and valve cover gaskets at same time?

[4Runner4Leon]

I was all set to do the timing belt job today, but noticed that my valve covers gaskets are leaking like a sieve, so I have those parts on order.

Having scoped out both jobs, I don't see much benefit of doing them together. Also if I do them separately and the truck decides to not start when I'm done, it'd be easier to diagnose if I did only one job at a time.

Does that make sense, or are there savings in labor time or ease of access in doing the two jobs together?

Thanks.

 

[octanejunkie]

I was all set to do the timing belt job today, but noticed that my valve covers gaskets are leaking like a sieve, so I have those parts on order.

Having scoped out both jobs, I don't see much benefit of doing them together. Also if I do them separately and the truck decides to not start when I'm done, it'd be easier to diagnose if I did only one job at a time.

Does that make sense, or are there savings in labor time or ease of access in doing the two jobs together?

Thanks.

Besides draining coolant, the two jobs are mutually exclusive, and isolating two potential problems to troubleshoot makes sense to me

 

[4Runner4Leon]

OK, damn the torpedoes, I'm about to start spinning wrenches (I guess I'll wait till first light so the neighbors don't complain about air tools at 6 am)...

 

[LittleCaesar]

You can hold down the cams to more easily break the tight as heck cam sprocket bolt to change out the cam seals.

All day easier, just don't forget a wayward connector or two....

 

[4Runner4Leon]

You can hold down the cams to more easily break the tight as heck cam sprocket bolt to change out the cam seals.

All day easier, just don't forget a wayward connector or two....

Good point; hopefully my cam holding tool will do the trick. Stay tuned.

 

[IBallEngineer]

I was all set to do the timing belt job today, but noticed that my valve covers gaskets are leaking like a sieve, so I have those parts on order.

Having scoped out both jobs, I don't see much benefit of doing them together. Also if I do them separately and the truck decides to not start when I'm done, it'd be easier to diagnose if I did only one job at a time.

Does that make sense, or are there savings in labor time or ease of access in doing the two jobs together?

Thanks.

I did my valve covers 5 days after my timing belt because it turned out my oil leak was from the right valve cover, not the front crank seal as I had assumed. The real benefit to doing both is they both get done. But it turns a day's job potentially into a 2 day job.

Just do it right, it will start!

:couch2:

 

[BamaDrewski]

I was all set to do the timing belt job today, but noticed that my valve covers gaskets are leaking like a sieve, so I have those parts on order.

Having scoped out both jobs, I don't see much benefit of doing them together. Also if I do them separately and the truck decides to not start when I'm done, it'd be easier to diagnose if I did only one job at a time.

Does that make sense, or are there savings in labor time or ease of access in doing the two jobs together?

Thanks.

I guess it all depends on the time you have to spare. I was in the same spot and decided to do all the valve cover gaskets, half moons, cam covers and cam seals (along with a "all components" timing belt change) at the same time. Admittedly, I had set aside a few days for the job as I wanted to be sure I did it right.

 

[mtbtim]

You're probably already deep into this job but here's some videos that might help you out:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/N5fAXAuGozI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[weekendclimber]

I did mine together and was fine. Just mark everything like Timmy says.

(click to enlarge)

 

[4Runner4Leon]

I did my valve covers 5 days after my timing belt because it turned out my oil leak was from the right valve cover, not the front crank seal as I had assumed. The real benefit to doing both is they both get done. But it turns a day's job potentially into a 2 day job.

Oh yeah, my valve covers are leaking bad, I already know that. 3 pounds of disgusting sludge all over the motor sort of gave that away

I decided to do just the timing belt today, as I would like to be done this weekend, and the valve cover parts won't come till mid week.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

You're probably already deep into this job but here's some videos that might help you out

Thanks a bunch Tim... Those were super helpful, here is me getting started this morning . You da man!

 

[4Runner4Leon]

So I'm pretty happy with my progress today. I got everything torn down, cleaned, and mostly reassembled (the belt is on, the timing marks triple checked, and the timing covers have been cleaned and are ready to go back on tomorrow).

I would have finished in one day if it weren't for the above-mentioned 3 pounds of sludge all over the motor.. I HATE greasy motors, so I used nearly a quart of Simple Green until I could see aluminum and painted metal again. Also, the pulleys and some other items are being painted, so that's gotta wait till tomorrow before going back on.

Here is the sludge, yuck!



Here it is all cleaned up, much better!



I did run into some unexpected issues which slowed me down (aside from the sludge).

For one thing, I could not for the life of me get an extension and a socket onto the rear tensioner screw. I couldn't even see the screw head, so I have no idea how I was supposed to get a socket onto it. And then I started pondering how on earth I would guide the screw back in without cross threading. I hate threading blind, especially into aluminum. So I followed the FSM and took off the PS pump and the AC compressor. Personally, I think it's a better way to go - everything is so easy to see, look at these perfectly exposed tensioner screws (ignore the sludge):



Second, in Tim's video, the crank sprocket came right off. That's what I expected too, but no such luck - mine was rusted on to the crank something fierce. So a quick trip to the local OSH later, I made up a contraption that I could use with my harmonic balancer kit (which did not include the needed 6mm screws):



Look at all that rust, that's why it didn't want to come off:



I now have all the new parts back on, and have the belt lined up:



Hopefully tomorrow will go quick and easy, with no surprises. I did break a few of the grille clips, any idea if they can be bought individually?

 

[4Runner4Leon]

OK, found the grille clips - https://smile.amazon.com/Toyota-904...F8&qid=1512274789&sr=1-3&keywords=90467-12040

 

[Mark_BC]

Any advantage to doing the timing belt and head gaskets at the same time?

 

[Kelevra]

OK, found the grille clips -

$7 on ebay..

 

[4Runner4Leon]

OK, found the grille clips -

$7 on ebay..

I actually ended up getting these knockoffs - a bit cheaper than OEM, and I get them delivered same day. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1H4X9Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[amalik]

Any advantage to doing the timing belt and head gaskets at the same time?

Whoa. Hg?

You're going eons deeper on a hg than a timing belt.

Id check out fsm removal pages for HG and compare to TB job, maybe you'll find a commonality or two in the steps.

Sent from my LGMS428 using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

For one thing, I could not for the life of me get an extension and a socket onto the rear tensioner screw. I couldn't even see the screw head, so I have no idea how I was supposed to get a socket onto it. And then I started pondering how on earth I would guide the screw back in without cross threading. I hate threading blind, especially into aluminum. So I followed the FSM and took off the PS pump and the AC compressor. Personally, I think it's a better way to go - everything is so easy to see, look at these perfectly exposed tensioner screws (ignore the sludge):

Second, in Tim's video, the crank sprocket came right off. That's what I expected too, but no such luck - mine was rusted on to the crank something fierce. So a quick trip to the local OSH later, I made up a contraption that I could use with my harmonic balancer kit (which did not include the needed 6mm screws):

It is debatable what's easier, taking the AC compressor and bracket off or fishing an extension, swivel and socket up between the starter wire bracket and AC bracket to get that back tensioner bolt off. When Sean and I made the first video, I had a very easy time getting the bolt off and back on because I had the radiator out of my way and I could get my head in there to see better what I was doing. When we did the second video to troubleshoot the noise on the front of his motor, we didn't remove the radiator and that made it harder for me to negotiate the bolt back in. There was definitely some cursing going on. Taping the swivel so it doesn't flop around a bunch and also putting a little tape on the head of the socket so the bolt won't fall off as you're fishing it back up there definitely helps.

For the crankshaft timing gear, what was the length and thread pitch of the M6 bolts you used to pull it off. I want to add this information to our video because there's probably a lot of people that will run into the same problem.

That was cool seeing our video on your laptop screen in front of your vehicle. That's how I envision some people using our videos, playing and pausing as they complete each step we show in the video.

 

[4Runner4Leon]

Any advantage to doing the timing belt and head gaskets at the same time?

I'd say so - Step 6 of Cylinder Head Removal Section is "Remove Timing Belt"

 

[4Runner4Leon]

It is debatable what's easier, taking the AC compressor and bracket off or fishing an extension, swivel and socket up between the starter wire bracket and AC bracket to get that back tensioner bolt off. ... There was definitely some cursing going on.

Tim, I think it's one of those things that once you are familiar with the motor, you can probably get to the second tensioner screw fairly easily (I am only a few weeks into the 5VZ, so a noob). My bigger concern still is reinstalling the screw into aluminum without really seeing things clearly. A stripped thread makes for a very bad day, especially in that area.

I started cursing too, and since my motor was so greasy, I just gave up and took the PS and AC off - better access and a good opportunity to clean the gunk off .

For the crankshaft timing gear, what was the length and thread pitch of the M6 bolts you used to pull it off. I want to add this information to our video because there's probably a lot of people that will run into the same problem.

Sure thing - it was an M6-1.0 mm x 100 mm screw that I got at my local OSH, and was glad to find them. I was a little worried about them bending or snapping with my harmonic balancer puller kit (which I was surprised did not have these size bolts), but they held. In hindsight, I found that HD (at least my local one) stocks the same size screw in a socket head configuration, which should be stronger. I'd recommend trying to find those - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...al-Hex-Socket-Head-Cap-Screw-845078/204834736.

That was cool seeing our video on your laptop screen in front of your vehicle. That's how I envision some people using our videos, playing and pausing as they complete each step we show in the video.

Absolutely! I have to say, your videos are truly top notch - the attention to detail is phenomenal, like the small detail of the washer on the back of the No. 1 Idler. I'd rather watch a long video that I know has all the details than a short one where some key details are missing. So you can be sure your valve cover videos will be fired up on the Toughbook next week .