Any reasons why I should not buy a 1998 5 speed with eLocker

[RonJR]

Airing down will help a lot for the stalling. It allows the tire to conform to the rock and climb it less abruptly than when you're at full tire pressure. Think "oozing" over the rocks instead of bouncing over or off of them. Even going down to 18-20 psi helps a lot. If you have bead-lockers you can go down to 10psi and you'll hardly feel the bumps.

 

[Sean K.]

Airing down will help a lot for the stalling. It allows the tire to conform to the rock and climb it less abruptly than when you're at full tire pressure. Think "oozing" over the rocks instead of bouncing over them. Even going down to 18-20 psi helps a lot. If you have bead-lockers you can go down to 10psi and you'll hardly feel the bumps.

And airing down will help with the "bounciness", though to get to my shooting spot, I'm running 30-32 lbs and don't air down. Airing down will also help absorb some of the shock to the suspension/drivetrain. On non-beadlocked wheels, I'm comfortable going down to 12 psi (depending on wheel to tire width ratio).

 

[Mark_BC]

Just practice re-seating your tire or search Youtube for videos on how to do this. I was running 15 psi last month on a dirt road and the tire just unseated way up in the middle of nowhere. It was dark and there were grizzly bears around in the bushes so I didn't screw around, I just put on the spare. At home I used a compressor to re-seat it but sometimes that doesn't work so you need to wrap straps around the tire to squeeze it, or set it on fire.

 

[ranchdog]

Was that the one in Cypress off the Houston craigslist?

If so , I just saw the add. LOL


Britt

Yep, and I wasted no time in buying it at Lunch that day it appeared :cheers:

Ranchdog

 

[Scramble]

Thanks RonJR, appreciate the link and advice. Yeah felt like I couldn't walk away from it for $6500. Others I looked at had bad tires, needed timing belt and water pumps, had 200k miles, some things didn't work and several owners, no owners manual etc. So yeah I guess we both got a good deal. Also none I looked at had the E-Locker. This one also has the clutch start also. Course the wife and daughter don't know yet its a 5 Speed LOL...the daughter needs to learn to drive a manual, its part of life..But she will like the Factory Stereo with CD play, dude cranked it up and it rocks, although I am not that much a loud stereo guy. I guess I could get my coyote call system hooked into it.....

Ranchdog

Congrats! Buying from the original owner is the way to go. It looks well taken care of. Wheelin' with a clutch takes practice but it's not hard. Dont ride the clutch! It's all about not getting into bad habits. Keep that left foot on the foot rest at all times until you need it. 1st gear & 4/lo will let you crawl over anything. Push the clutch to the floor & press the brake if you have to but dont ride it. Now get rid of those nerf bars & damage multiplier! :guitar3:

EDIT: I've never used the clutch start cancel in 17 years of ownership.

 

[Chuckles89]

Even with my 34s and stock gears, I don't have to ride my clutch much. Sure, it'll stall a bunch if you go slow, but that's just part of the game

 

[Scramble]

Even with my 34s and stock gears, I don't have to ride my clutch much. Sure, it'll stall a bunch if you go slow, but that's just part of the game

Not if your quick to the clutch pedal. I consider it a defeat if I stall it.

 

[ranchdog]

Congrats! Buying from the original owner is the way to go. It looks well taken care of. Wheelin' with a clutch takes practice but it's not hard. Dont ride the clutch! It's all about not getting into bad habits. Keep that left foot on the foot rest at all times until you need it. 1st gear & 4/lo will let you crawl over anything. Push the clutch to the floor & press the brake if you have to but dont ride it. Now get rid of those nerf bars & damage multiplier! :guitar3:

EDIT: I've never used the clutch start cancel in 17 years of ownership.

What do the nerf bars do to damage it and what do I put in its place ?

Thanks, Rancdog

 

[Sean K.]

What do the nerf bars do to damage it and what do I put in its place ?

Thanks, Rancdog

They can get pushed up into the body if you actually put a lot of weight on them. They are really designed as steps, not actual rock sliders.

If you want to protect that area of the body....you need a real set of sliders. There are several vendors on the site if you think they are needed for your 4wheeling uses.

 

[Scramble]

What do the nerf bars do to damage it and what do I put in its place ?

Thanks, Rancdog

They will not protect your rocker panels if you do any real off roading. Rock Sliders are what you want to put on there for protection.

ShrockWorks Toyota 4Runner Rock Sliders, Rock Rails - 3rd Gen, 1996-2002

 

[Mark_BC]

They can get pushed up into the body if you actually put a lot of weight on them. They are really designed as steps, not actual rock sliders.

If you want to protect that area of the body....you need a real set of sliders. There are several vendors on the site if you think they are needed for your 4wheeling uses.

I just took mine off, the three brackets holding each one on actually run left to right and stick down so if you do slide on a rock then you are going to slide until the rock hits a bracket then not slide no more!!!!! Then rip out the bracket and do who knows what other damage.

 

[Sean K.]

If you have bead-locks you can go down to 10psi

Or even lower. Depends on the tires and beadlocks. I run 3 psi in the rear on my buggy and around 4 or 5 in front.

On my 4Runner, I'm planning something more like 5-7 psi with 37" Pit Bull Radial Rockers on a bastardized mix of Ballistic Fab and Mayhem MetalWorks weld on beadlocks.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Yep, and I wasted no time in buying it at Lunch that day it appeared :cheers:

Ranchdog

Haha I saw that one also the day it appeared.
Just looking though; not actually on the market...
So you gonna keep the tan duct tape on the driver's seat? :flipoff:

 

[Chuckles89]

Not if your quick to the clutch pedal. I consider it a defeat if I stall it.

Or the gas pedal

 

[kolelt]

As I said earlier....the 3.4L has very good low end torque. If the rocks are around basketball size, the key is to let the truck idle (with your foot off the clutch). Ya, it *could* stall....but that's exactly what the clutch cancel button is for. While it *could* stall, I've been very pleasantly surprised how low this engine will idle down to and still run while going over decent sized rocks.

The place I go shooting at almost weekly at times has a dry (usually) wash littered with basketball and larger sized rocks (which keeps most people from going there). I lurch a little here and there, but I just idle through with the locker on.

Lemme guess...you don't have a locker. ***EDIT*** Just saw your build thread and that you have an elocker now****

Do you ever smell burnt clutch while going over these rocks you're talking about?

If so, it's a pretty good sign you should look into a crawl box and at least one locker for the type of wheeling you're doing.

No locker yet. I do have one. Just not installed. I did smell a burning smell lol. Before I read and asked for help. Now I'm much better. Thanks for the tips and info . How much psi can I air down so you think with level 8 mk6 / 285/75/16 general garbbers at2

 

[Sean K.]

No locker yet. I do have one. Just not installed. I did smell a burning smell lol. Before I read and asked for help. Now I'm much better. Thanks for the tips and info . How much psi can I air down so you think with level 8 mk6 / 285/75/16 general garbbers at2

Are those tires a P rated or LT tire? I have no experience with Ps in terms of airing down. The weaker sidewalls will mean the bead will pop off more easily.

As for the wheels and tires...how wide are the wheels and how wide are the tires? Generally speaking the narrower the wheel in relation to the tire, the better the bead retention as the tire is "pinched" onto the wheel. For example, an 8" wide wheel will retain a 12.50" wide tire better than a 10" wheel....which to me seems counter intuitive, but I've witnessed it enough that I'm inclined to believe it.

 

[Sean K.]

Oh, and once you get the locker installed....you'll find you can be a lot smoother as you don't need as much power input to get over a set of opposing rocks.

 

[kolelt]

Are those tires a P rated or LT tire? I have no experience with Ps in terms of airing down. The weaker sidewalls will mean the bead will pop off more easily.

As for the wheels and tires...how wide are the wheels and how wide are the tires? Generally speaking the narrower the wheel in relation to the tire, the better the bead retention as the tire is "pinched" onto the wheel. For example, an 8" wide wheel will retain a 12.50" wide tire better than a 10" wheel....which to me seems counter intuitive, but I've witnessed it enough that I'm inclined to believe it.

Sorry to OP for hijacking his thread.

The wheels are , 16x8 ET0 MK6, tires are LT285 /75 R16 122Q D1 OWL, load range D

 

[Sean K.]

Sorry to OP for hijacking his thread.

The wheels are , 16x8 ET0 MK6, tires are LT285 /75 R16 122Q D1 OWL, load range D

So they're about 11.2" wide. I'd guess 15 psi would be plenty safe. I'd start there and adjust based on how the tires are hooking up on the trails you run.

If you need lower pressure and you start popping beads....there are internal beadlock options that would allow you to air down to single digits if you wanted.