Anyone Hardwire a Radar Detector yet?

[GJC]

Thanks to this thread I mounted my 9500ix this weekend using the 12" invisicord and the performance package mount that I linked below. I would have used the blendmount, but this one came with the detector I bought. I had to attach it at the skinniest part of the mirror extension and it works fine. The cost for the mount is $34.95. The whole installation took me 10 minutes. The covers pop off with a little wiggling and the invisicord wires go straight into the slots the other two wires are connected in. You may have to use a little force to get them in there.

PerformancePackage.com

 

[kernel]

Hello all,

I just bought a 2012 4Runner and wanted to hardwire my V1, and my efforts have been unsuccessful. I used a paint can opener to run the wire under the headliner, then under the top of the A pillar under the plastic air bag cover, under the seal to the door, then down to the fuse box. Overall, a very simple and effective way of running the cord.

I have the fuse tap with a 7.5a fuse plugged into the acc slot. The radio works, so that leads me to believe the fuse tap is working (when I remove the fuse I plugged into it, the radio goes out). I replaced the inline fuse to the V1, yet my V1 still doesn't work. My best guess is that it isn't properly grounded.

Where is everyone screwing in the grounding wire? Any other thoughts on what the issue might be?

thanks in advance.

 

[Jaker]

Hello all,

I just bought a 2012 4Runner and wanted to hardwire my V1, and my efforts have been unsuccessful. I used a paint can opener to run the wire under the headliner, then under the top of the A pillar under the plastic air bag cover, under the seal to the door, then down to the fuse box. Overall, a very simple and effective way of running the cord.

I have the fuse tap with a 7.5a fuse plugged into the acc slot. The radio works, so that leads me to believe the fuse tap is working (when I remove the fuse I plugged into it, the radio goes out). I replaced the inline fuse to the V1, yet my V1 still doesn't work. My best guess is that it isn't properly grounded.

Where is everyone screwing in the grounding wire? Any other thoughts on what the issue might be?

thanks in advance.

If you're using a fuse-tap, do you have a fuse plugged into both slots of the fuse-tap? That is most definitely the issue. Finding a ground is relatively easy, but I can't help you with where you wired it in. I personally wired mine (on my Limited) into the electronics of the overhead console.

 

[kernel]

I have a fuse tap with two slots, but only a single fuse plugged into the tap. Do I need two plugged into it? In my 335i, I never put a fuse into the tap and just used it without one without any issues.

 

[harper7]

I have a fuse tap with two slots, but only a single fuse plugged into the tap. Do I need two plugged into it? In my 335i, I never put a fuse into the tap and just used it without one without any issues.

Then you had it in your 335i backwards and got lucky and it was'nt being protected by the fuse as it was tapped off the wrong side. Did you read the directions on the tap? It's pretty important!

There is a hot side to a fuse socket . If you tap into that side and short the circuit out a fire can and will start as it's not fused. To find the hot side use a test lamp or a voltmeter per the directions for the tap. You don't want to tap off the hotside or it bypasses the fuse.

Post # 9 shows exactly where you to tap into the mirror power.
If you get the fuse tap figured out .....there is a steel crash bar up under dash with studs and nuts that work as a grounding point.

 

[kernel]

I did read the instructions and it stated if it was plugged in backwards, the accessory wouldn't work. Initially when I had it plugged in, my radio wouldn't come on. When I reversed the tap and fuse, it came on so I thought everything was good from that end. The instructions make no mention of a hot end.

This is the fuse tap I bought:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ed-circuit/_/N-25gq?itemIdentifier=32416_0_0_

Post 9 works if you have an auto-dimming mirror, which I do not have. For now, I've put the original acc fuse back in it's spot. Is it possible to have put this in backwards? I don't remember which way it was in originally and definitely don't want to short anything considering this is the first new car I've ever purchased.

Also, do I need to plug two fuses into the tap, or is one sufficient? The tap I have is only rated for up to 10a, yet the original fuse in that tap was 7.5a so that's what I bought. I assume that putting two 7.5a fuses in it would overload it.

Obviously this area is not my forte, so I appreciate all of the information.

 

[Jaker]

I have a fuse tap with two slots, but only a single fuse plugged into the tap. Do I need two plugged into it? In my 335i, I never put a fuse into the tap and just used it without one without any issues.

As I stated in my previous post, put a fuse in both slots of the tap and you'll be good to go.

 

[kernel]

Thanks! Given that the original fuse was 7.5a and my fuse tap is rated for 10a would placing two 7.5a fuses into the fuse tap be okay, or do I need to find a smaller fuse?

 

[deekoi]

Thanks! Given that the original fuse was 7.5a and my fuse tap is rated for 10a would placing two 7.5a fuses into the fuse tap be okay, or do I need to find a smaller fuse?

I used a fuse rated at 10a and put 10a in both slots. Worked with no problems.

 

[harper7]

I did read the instructions and it stated if it was plugged in backwards, the accessory wouldn't work. Initially when I had it plugged in, my radio wouldn't come on. When I reversed the tap and fuse, it came on so I thought everything was good from that end. The instructions make no mention of a hot end.

This is the fuse tap I bought:
Cooper Bussmann/ATM fuse tap converts one into two fusible circuits - 10 Amps maximum on added circuit (BP-HHH-RP) | Fuse and Accessories | AutoZone.com

Post 9 works if you have an auto-dimming mirror, which I do not have. For now, I've put the original acc fuse back in it's spot. Is it possible to have put this in backwards? I don't remember which way it was in originally and definitely don't want to short anything considering this is the first new car I've ever purchased.

Also, do I need to plug two fuses into the tap, or is one sufficient? The tap I have is only rated for up to 10a, yet the original fuse in that tap was 7.5a so that's what I bought. I assume that putting two 7.5a fuses in it would overload it.

Obviously this area is not my forte, so I appreciate all of the information.

Did you read it!!!
You can put up to 10amps in each slot.Like I said yesterday, you have to find out which way it goes in the socket so your not bypassing the fuse........first. It matters.

The bottom slot from from the pigtail gets the original fuse that was in the fuse box and it has to be 10amps or less. The circuit your adding has to be 10 amps or less and is the slot right next to the leadwire.

Here ,I'll take a pic and ask questions on what you don't understand. Follow the installation directions and you won't have a problem. The radar detector has to be grounded of course .

 

[kernel]

I've put two 7.5a fuses into the fuse tap and I've tapped the lead wire using the V1 kit. I don't have a voltmeter, so can anyone tell me the right way to plug the fuse tap into the fuse box so I don't end up bypassing the fuses?

What does the crash bar look like?

Thanks for helping a noob.

 

[Rlin0997]

I'm hard wiring my V1 this weekend. I have a 2012 TE. Is there a power wire I can tap into already in the headliner? :thanks:

 

[Jaker]

I'm hard wiring my V1 this weekend. I have a 2012 TE. Is there a power wire I can tap into already in the headliner? :thanks:

I'm not sure what the innards of a TE's overhead console look like, but this is what I used for my Limited: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/66190-kingpins-new-truck-5.html#post844340

 

[westwind77]

I just used the mirror tap that came with a 2-amp in-line fuse installed. Nothing to worry about.

 

[Rlin0997]

Thanks for the help guys! Might do the rear view mirror trick. Not brave enough yet to take apart and tap my new baby. I'm going to make a mirror tap myself. Wish me luck.

 

[Rlin0997]

Hey guys. Does anyone know what fuse is linked to the rear view mirror?
I popped it and cant find the fuse :redbrick:

 

[kernel]

Can anyone that hardwired the V1 with a fuse tap please take a picture and show me where you bolted the ground wire in? I don't have a multimeter or know how to use one for that matter, and I have no idea what a "crash bar" looks like.

thanks in advance.

 

[Jaker]

Can anyone that hardwired the V1 with a fuse tap please take a picture and show me where you bolted the ground wire in? I don't have a multimeter or know how to use one for that matter, and I have no idea what a "crash bar" looks like.

thanks in advance.

The crash bar is a long piece of metal. For a ground, just find a bolt or nut that is attached to the crash bar and this will serve as the ground.

 

[Randyman...]

I decided to keep my Radar lower on the dash - as cops generally aim towards your bumper/license plate for an accurate "read" (License Plates and Chrome Bumpers = Fantastic reflectors! ). Mounting a radar detector "way up there" on the rear-view mirror in a high 4x4 vehicle can negate Laser detection (and can lower K/Ka sensitivity a little).

I also believe the radar is well out of the way WRT driver visibility. It covers part of my hood view - and doesn't affect ANY of the road/traffic visibility where it's currentrly located - yet it is easily visible and grabs my attention when "alerting". I also avoided the interference/attenuation from the dark-area of the windshield that surrounds the rear-view mirror in my '13 T4R (not sure if older 5th Gen's have those little "dots" around the rear-view mirror - but those will attenuate Radar and BLOCK Laser detection!).

I initially hard-wired my Escort 8500 x50 by passing the wire through my T4R SR5's unused auto-headlight sensor at the center of the dash (drilled a hole in it), but I just swapped to a slicker install where the radar wire comes in from the defroster vents (the wire is less visible - runs a shorter distance until it disappears into the dash).

Then, I just received the Escort "Hardwire Smart Cord". I gutted the small plastic pod it came in and installed the "Mute" button right below the 4WD-Selector knob for easy-access (physically reaching up to the Radar on the dash to hit the "Mute" button is awkward). I didn't need to see the LED's on the remote-mute button (Radar is in plain view), so I only allotted for the physical Mute button itself (LED's are still on the PCB, I just didn't drill any holes for them to shine through). My eyes are on the windshield/dash when driving anyways - so the Power and "Alert" LED's on the remote-pod in the console wouldn't be of much use anyways.

I used a similar "Mini/ATM" Fuse Tap to get into my fuse-box (obviously means removing the stock plastic fuse-box cover). I used one of those "ATM Add-a-Circuit" fuse taps for the reverse trigger for my Alpine INA-W910 as well (our T4R's reverse fuse only sends +12V when shifted into reverse! - Makes for a perfect reverse-camera +12V trigger!).

Pics:

Escort 8500 x50 (Blue) - Driver's View:

Escort 8500 x50 (Blue) - Passenger Side w/Wire into Defroster Vent:

Escort "Smart Cord" - Gutted & "Mute" button mounted by 4WD Selector:

The hole I drilled in the console was pretty friggin' ugly - so I cut-up the Escort's "Smart Cord" label, and used the "Mute" button sticker to cover up the piss-poor hole I drilled A little ghetto - but MUCH better than revealing the piss-poor hole I drilled...

Works very well IMNSHO. I used a small piece of rubber I trimmed and glued to the bottom of the Radar to support the Radar on the dash. The rear of the radar is supported by the windshield (suction cup mount), and the front rests on the dash (via the rubber "bumper"). This results in a completely stable mount - the Radar doesn't bounce/jump AT ALL!!! I can't stand when my Radar is bouncing around on the windshield mount!!!! :lasercannon:

Merry X-Mas Y'all! :cowboy:

 

[ATL4R]

I decided to keep my Radar lower on the dash - as cops generally aim towards your bumper/license plate for an accurate "read" (License Plates and Chrome Bumpers = Fantastic reflectors! ). Mounting a radar detector "way up there" on the rear-view mirror in a high 4x4 vehicle can negate Laser detection (and can lower K/Ka sensitivity a little).

I also believe the radar is well out of the way WRT driver visibility. It covers part of my hood view - and doesn't affect ANY of the road/traffic visibility where it's currentrly located - yet it is easily visible and grabs my attention when "alerting". I also avoided the interference/attenuation from the dark-area of the windshield that surrounds the rear-view mirror in my '13 T4R (not sure if older 5th Gen's have those little "dots" around the rear-view mirror - but those will attenuate Radar and BLOCK Laser detection!).

I initially hard-wired my Escort 8500 x50 by passing the wire through my T4R SR5's unused auto-headlight sensor at the center of the dash (drilled a hole in it), but I just swapped to a slicker install where the radar wire comes in from the defroster vents (the wire is less visible - runs a shorter distance until it disappears into the dash).

Then, I just received the Escort "Hardwire Smart Cord". I gutted the small plastic pod it came in and installed the "Mute" button right below the 4WD-Selector knob for easy-access (physically reaching up to the Radar on the dash to hit the "Mute" button is awkward). I didn't need to see the LED's on the remote-mute button (Radar is in plain view), so I only allotted for the physical Mute button itself (LED's are still on the PCB, I just didn't drill any holes for them to shine through). My eyes are on the windshield/dash when driving anyways - so the Power and "Alert" LED's on the remote-pod in the console wouldn't be of much use anyways.

I used a similar "Mini/ATM" Fuse Tap to get into my fuse-box (obviously means removing the stock plastic fuse-box cover). I used one of those "ATM Add-a-Circuit" fuse taps for the reverse trigger for my Alpine INA-W910 as well (our T4R's reverse fuse only sends +12V when shifted into reverse! - Makes for a perfect reverse-camera +12V trigger!).

Pics:

Escort 8500 x50 (Blue) - Driver's View:

Escort 8500 x50 (Blue) - Passenger Side w/Wire into Defroster Vent:

Escort "Smart Cord" - Gutted & "Mute" button mounted by 4WD Selector:

The hole I drilled in the console was pretty friggin' ugly - so I cut-up the Escort's "Smart Cord" label, and used the "Mute" button sticker to cover up the piss-poor hole I drilled A little ghetto - but MUCH better than revealing the piss-poor hole I drilled...

Works very well IMNSHO. I used a small piece of rubber I trimmed and glued to the bottom of the Radar to support the Radar on the dash. The rear of the radar is supported by the windshield (suction cup mount), and the front rests on the dash (via the rubber "bumper"). This results in a completely stable mount - the Radar doesn't bounce/jump AT ALL!!! I can't stand when my Radar is bouncing around on the windshield mount!!!! :lasercannon:

Merry X-Mas Y'all! :cowboy:

Nice looking mute button. Great idea.

I will say, I believe the HIGHER the detector is mounted, the better (further) the reception for RADAR.

You are correct about LASER being aimed at the front bumper and the beam being super narrow. So lower would be better in that instance, but if you detect the laser that was just shot at your bumper then your just getting confirmation your speed was most likely detected (as long as everything went correctly on the officer's end).

High or low, you are protected well and your install looks great.