Anyone Running Dobinsons UCA? Opinions?

:guitar2::guitar2:

Install is on Tuesday, buddies lift will be clear on that day :)
 

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Dobinsons installed and very happy with results.

The pictures speak for themselves

First adjustment post lift with out UCAs while I knew would be very hard if even possible to get the geometry I wanted with out after market UCA. The alignment tech modified the machine readout/limits to put the numbers so they showed green:censored::gun5:.. and the truck pulled left which required about 2 deg of steering wheel correction!!!!
Tech was like "I don't know why it pulling left camber and toe are almost identical..":ybrick: well perhaps because you have a good amount of cross caster...... That was 2.5 hrs and 90$ wasted


After installing the Dob UCA went to a different dealership only took about 45 mins for them to adjust it properly.
Final adjustment ( at a different dealership) came out as close as I could have expected..

very very very happy with the Dobinsons UCA

One suggestion for Dobinson is to include a P clam example> (Essentra Components - SPN-10 - Clamp; Fixed; Screw Mount; Steel w/Black Rubber Cushion; 5/8 in holding diameter - Allied Electronics & Automation)

To secure the wheel position sensor wire to the stud on the UCA arm. Worked better then trying to reuse the factory bracket.
 

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I don't get why they don't come with the ball joints pre installed. Just adds more time and cost to the end user. They are the only ones that do this, doesn't make sense.
 
I don't get why they don't come with the ball joints pre installed. Just adds more time and cost to the end user. They are the only ones that do this, doesn't make sense.

We offer assembly for an additional cost, just like our strut assembly. Lots of guys can do it themselves which lets them buy the UCA set for less money.
 
We offer assembly for an additional cost, just like our strut assembly. Lots of guys can do it themselves which lets them buy the UCA set for less money.

Considering your arms are around the same price as other arms on the market, this should not cost more. Camburg arms are your closest match and they come ready to bolt in and they have grease zerks, that marks 2 selling points above your arms. IMO, It's just a way to get more $ out of people and definitely not the right thing to do. The time it takes to press in a set of ball joints is minutes. Support your customers, support your product, provide the customer with a bolt in option like literally everyone else on the market.
 
Considering your arms are around the same price as other arms on the market, this should not cost more. Camburg arms are your closest match and they come ready to bolt in and they have grease zerks, that marks 2 selling points above your arms. IMO, It's just a way to get more $ out of people and definitely not the right thing to do. The time it takes to press in a set of ball joints is minutes. Support your customers, support your product, provide the customer with a bolt in option like literally everyone else on the market.

We can compare ours to Camburg if you'd like.

1. Our UCA's (arms only) are $400 without ball joints. You can put in inexpensive ball joints (like Moog) if you'd like, to lower the cost. They just don't last as long and don't have the same quality.
2. Our ball joints are the highest quality aftermarket joints that we could possibly find. They are $75 each, 2 for $150, bringing a pair of those with the arms totals $550.
3. As I said before, we offer them assembled for an additional charge, so that would be $610 at current pricing.
4. Greasable fittings = maintenance point. Stock UCA joints are not greasable, and there are plenty of 4th Gens running around with 150K+ miles and stock upper bj's still running just fine. Grease fittings have been known to weaken certain type of joints, mainly because they put a hole right in the middle of it. And they can introduce moisture and dirt in instances where they go from hot to cold very quickly.
5. Camburg is running poly bushings. Quick and easy to install, yet require regular maintenance or at least checking, and greasing. Ours use OEM grade rubber bushings that can't squeak and require no maintenance or greasing, ever.

I'm not saying ours are better or worse than anyone else's. But we DO give the customer all the options, if they want it.

So if someone wants to buy our UCA arms-only with Moog ball joints, it would be ~$480, but I wouldn't sell those joints.
 
We can compare ours to Camburg if you'd like.

1. Our UCA's (arms only) are $400 without ball joints. You can put in inexpensive ball joints (like Moog) if you'd like, to lower the cost. They just don't last as long and don't have the same quality.
2. Our ball joints are the highest quality aftermarket joints that we could possibly find. They are $75 each, 2 for $150, bringing a pair of those with the arms totals $550.
3. As I said before, we offer them assembled for an additional charge, so that would be $610 at current pricing.
4. Greasable fittings = maintenance point. Stock UCA joints are not greasable, and there are plenty of 4th Gens running around with 150K+ miles and stock upper bj's still running just fine. Grease fittings have been known to weaken certain type of joints, mainly because they put a hole right in the middle of it. And they can introduce moisture and dirt in instances where they go from hot to cold very quickly.
5. Camburg is running poly bushings. Quick and easy to install, yet require regular maintenance or at least checking, and greasing. Ours use OEM grade rubber bushings that can't squeak and require no maintenance or greasing, ever.

I'm not saying ours are better or worse than anyone else's. But we DO give the customer all the options, if they want it.

So if someone wants to buy our UCA arms-only with Moog ball joints, it would be ~$480, but I wouldn't sell those joints.

I get it and of course you have to do what you have to do to justify your price. OEM Toyota upper ball joints direct from Toyota are $38.92 each and that was a quick google search, didn't try very hard to find them cheaper. PN 43310-39016

I agree, OEM ball joints last quite some time even without greasing but the grease point is a nice added bonus. In no way shape or form does adding a zerk to the ball joint cap going to compromise it's integrity, ever. Maybe I'll pick up an OEM joint, take it apart so no filings fall into them, drill the caps and tap them for zerks, and run those. Best of both worlds!
 
Maybe I'll pick up an OEM joint, take it apart so no filings fall into them, drill the caps and tap them for zerks, and run those. Best of both worlds!

It's a lot less work to just replace them as they come (without modifying) after the 5+ years that it will take them to wear out.
 
Have the Dobinson UCA's as well. Have been on the 4Runner for well over 30K of both on and off road. They have been flawless. In fact, I have had many Toyota Tech's mention how beefy they are and that they were pretty impressed.
 
Just installed Dobinsons UCAs. Got alignment done today and after lots of wrenching the guy could only get +3º caster. When turned closer to +3.5º it pushed the camber out of spec (0.7 to 1.0 degrees) so I had to settle for only +3.

My setup is: Bilstein 14" springs, Toytec 1/2" top plate spacer, and TRD struts. My front bumper adds 90 lbs so I don't think I'm too much over 3" of front lift. I'm happy with how it drives, but I know 4º caster would feel better. I watched him adjust the cam bolts all ways seemingly possible, is this as much caster as I can get?

69788912_10220194993094103_2530781497456066560_o.jpg
 
Just installed Dobinsons UCAs. Got alignment done today and after lots of wrenching the guy could only get +3º caster. When turned closer to +3.5º it pushed the camber out of spec (0.7 to 1.0 degrees) so I had to settle for only +3.

My setup is: Bilstein 14" springs, Toytec 1/2" top plate spacer, and TRD struts. My front bumper adds 90 lbs so I don't think I'm too much over 3" of front lift. I'm happy with how it drives, but I know 4º caster would feel better. I watched him adjust the cam bolts all ways seemingly possible, is this as much caster as I can get?

69788912_10220194993094103_2530781497456066560_o.jpg

Nice stance, how does it ride now since you removed the toytec 1 inch spring perch?
 
Just installed Dobinsons UCAs. Got alignment done today and after lots of wrenching the guy could only get +3º caster. When turned closer to +3.5º it pushed the camber out of spec (0.7 to 1.0 degrees) so I had to settle for only +3.

My setup is: Bilstein 14" springs, Toytec 1/2" top plate spacer, and TRD struts. My front bumper adds 90 lbs so I don't think I'm too much over 3" of front lift. I'm happy with how it drives, but I know 4º caster would feel better. I watched him adjust the cam bolts all ways seemingly possible, is this as much caster as I can get?

69788912_10220194993094103_2530781497456066560_o.jpg


With my 2 in lift, the tech was able to get me 3.4. He tried for 3.5 but it kept throwing the numbers off
 
I started out with just the Dobinsons 2.5” lift (2.25” after winch and aluminum slim bumper) then swapped the factory UCAs for Dobinsons a few weeks later. I checked the alignment paperwork and the caster is 3.5°. It definitely changed how the T4R tracks. Wandering all over the place at highway speed is drastically reduced. The lift didn’t really make the wandering worse. It was already annoying right off the dealer lot. Now I can relax and drive without having to make constant corrections.
 
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Does anyone know if these allow for extended travel when used with extended length shocks (kings)? The website doesn't really say one way or the other.

It says it requires at least 1.5" of lift. I will be at about 1.6-1.7" so technically in the range, but what happens when you are on the low end of the lift range? Does that mean it will push caster really high where there is a chance camber or toe won't come in?
 
How's it tracking on the highway?

Looks like I have just about the same amount of Dobinsons lift as KB180 and the Dobinsons UCAs resulted in very slightly higher caster (than KB180) with the rest of the alignment numbers within spec. The highway tracking is drastically improved and well worth the money. It's not luxury sedan precise, but it's about average now compared to most trucks. Way better than my 2017 F-150. About the same as my stock 2009 Tundra and a little worse than my stock 2006 Tundra (best handling truck I've ever owned).

The UCAs also eliminated the slight steering wobble I was experiencing intermittently after the lift on some roads between 60 - 65 MPH. Could be the result of a better alignment or balance by a competent tech instead of the UCAs.
 
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Around town, not an issue. I'll be on the freeway tomorrow afternoon, but I suspect it won't be much of an issue either.

Looks like I have just about the same amount of Dobinsons lift as KB180 and the Dobinsons UCAs resulted in very slightly higher caster (than KB180) with the rest of the alignment numbers within spec. The highway tracking is drastically improved and well worth the money. It's not luxury sedan precise, but it's about average now compared to most trucks. Way better than my 2017 F-150. About the same as my stock 2009 Tundra and a little worse than my stock 2006 Tundra (best handling truck I've ever owned).

The UCAs also eliminated the slight steering wobble I was experiencing intermittently after the lift on some roads between 60 - 65 MPH. Could be the result of a better alignment or balance by a competent tech instead of the UCAs.

Thank you both.
 
Does anyone know if these allow for extended travel when used with extended length shocks (kings)? The website doesn't really say one way or the other.

It says it requires at least 1.5" of lift. I will be at about 1.6-1.7" so technically in the range, but what happens when you are on the low end of the lift range? Does that mean it will push caster really high where there is a chance camber or toe won't come in?

Yes, it shouldn't be a problem to run them with those Kings.

The arms add caster, but the lower arm cams can be adjusted to take some out if you have too much and get the alignment locked in properly. They're just not needed with zero to a low lift which is why we have them listed with 1.5" of lift, plus the fact that they have added caster.
 
[MENTION=148378]Dobinsons Mike[/MENTION] I finally have my Dobinsons UCAs on the way and I have an installation question. Do you guys recommend lowering the vehicle back to the ground before torquing to spec, as I have seen recommended on UCAs with greasable bushings? The UCA installation pdf doesn't mention anything about lowering the vehicle but I think maybe that's because the Dobinson's bushings don't require grease.

Thanks man.
 

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