Anyone with 9.5" wide wheels on a 5th gen?

bofa

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Just curious of the specs and any issues.

I've read the stickies. And search was mostly about 4th gen.
:hiding:
 
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Just curious of the specs and any issues.

I've read the stickies. And search was mostly about 4th gen.
:hiding:

On a 5th Gen, moving the centerline of the wheel outboard is a recipe for rubbing. So if you are looking for wide wheels then you need a plan to mod to keep from rubbing. Lifting the vehicle does not help. Suspension still has to travel and you will rub. You also cannot go inboard because you will rub the strut.
 
On a 5th Gen, moving the centerline of the wheel outboard is a recipe for rubbing. So if you are looking for wide wheels then you need a plan to mod to keep from rubbing. Lifting the vehicle does not help. Suspension still has to travel and you will rub. You also cannot go inboard because you will rub the strut.

Yeah was trying to do the math. A 9.5" with a 10mm offset should be approx 5.64" backspace but the outside depth of the wheel will stick out 0.8" more.

At 20mm offset, the backspace is 6.04" but it corrects the outer depth close to stock, 2.46."

Doesnt seem too drastic but was hoping someone tried it. Not sure if someone has figured out the max backspace yet.
 
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Also, fwiw, tirerack says both offsets will fit... though im not sure if that really accounts for articulation or perhaps rubberband tires. :twitch:
 
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The problem in running a rim that wide is that it limits your tire choices, even a 285 is on the small side for a 9.5, of course this is only if you care about the manufactures recommendations.


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7My replacement TRDP came with these kinda silly dealer-installed 20x10s, with 4.5" BS, wrapped in 33x12.5 Mud Claws. They had already removed the mud flaps.

After a significant amount of trimming up front, I was actually able to glean about 1 to even 1.5" of space between the front of the tire and the front bumper, at full lock.

During regular driving, it still rubbed lightlt on the body mount, though I think there might have been room to increase caster to move the wheel forward another half inch, which would have allowed casual daily driving with little to no rubbing.

But, after about a week we just bought a set of 17x8s and 285s, and sold the 20s at a quick profit.

Some factors that I think could have made it work for street use:

1) Slightly less width, obviously.

2) 4.75 or even 5" of BS.

3) Less aggressive tires (more rounded profile or a narrower section width like 285s or even 295s).

4) Setting for maximum caster and accepting minimal camber.

Of course YMMV, and going offroad you will likely still rub. At full lock and with one wheel off the ground, my 285 ATs on the 17x8s with 4"of BS have less than a half inch between the back of the wheel and the body mount area.

Also, of course, the more mods you are willing to do, the more you can get away with. 34s or even 35s can be done with chopped mounts, severe bumper trimming, and aftermarket UCAs.
 
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The problem in running a rim that wide is that it limits your tire choices, even a 285 is on the small side for a 9.5, of course this is only if you care about the manufactures recommendations.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Should be okay on tires, though pricey. KO2 comes in a 275/55/20 and is spec'd for 7.5 to 9.5 wheels. The 60 profile work too - just need to see what can realistically fit.
 
7My replacement TRDP came with these kinda silly dealer-installed 20x10s, with 4.5" BS, wrapped in 33x12.5 Mud Claws. They had already removed the mud flaps.

After a significant amount of trimming up front, I was actually able to glean about 1 to even 1.5" of space between the front of the tire and the front bumper, at full lock.

During regular driving, it still rubbed lightlt on the body mount, though I think there might have been room to increase caster to move the wheel forward another half inch, which would have allowed casual daily driving with little to no rubbing.

But, after about a week we just bought a set of 17x8s and 285s, and sold the 20s at a quick profit.

Some factors that I think could have made it work for street use:

1) Slightly less width, obviously.

2) 4.75 or even 5" of BS.

3) Less aggressive tires (more rounded profile or a narrower section width like 285s or even 295s).

4) Setting for maximum caster and accepting minimal camber.

Of course YMMV, and going offroad you will likely still rub. At full lock and with one wheel off the ground, my 285 ATs on the 17x8s with 4"of BS have less than a half inch between the back of the wheel and the body mount area.

Also, of course, the more mods you are willing to do, the more you can get away with. 34s or even 35s can be done with chopped mounts, severe bumper trimming, and aftermarket UCAs.

Good perspective. Will definitely be getting KO2s again so i may need to keep looking for narrower wheels.
 
No longer chasing this info. Just found a killer deal in some 9" wide wheels i like and ordered them instead. Not even getting the 4R for a few more months. :lol:
 

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