AOB Switch Install Question - Negative Switched Headlights or Not?

dsfra

Member
Instead of writing it over again, I'll just paste in what I sent to AOB:

I ordered 3 switches for my Toyota "4Runner 2010-ON" from you, and am connecting one of them to my LED light bar, with the relay to be triggered by the highbeams. The wiring diagram that came with the switches is titled "HILUX / PRADO PUSH BUTTON SWITCH WIRING DIAGRAM". Please confirm that this diagram is applicable to my 2012 4Runner Trail. Beyond that, I am not sure whether I should be using "DIAGRAM 1 Positive switched vehicles (older models) or "DIAGRAM 2 Negative switched vehicles (newer models) 1 amp diode required". Is a 2012 4Runner considered an "older model" (Diagram 1) or a "newer model" (Diagram 2)? Looking at the factory 2010 wiring diagram (which applies to 2012 vehicles as well), it appears that the + 12 v. comes out of the "Main Body ECU" and triggers the factory highbeam relay, then we have a 10 A. fuse, then the highbeam bulb, then go to chassis ground - with no switching on the ground side of the highbeam bulb. This would suggest that I should be using DIAGRAM 1, since according to the factory wiring diagram it sure looks like the highbeams are not negative switched. Can you please confirm this?

What I got back:

Sorry i am not an auto electrician but going by your info i would say it is positive switched so use diagram 1. If you are still unsure maybe see what you can find online.

I appreciate AOB's response, but it doesn't answer the question, and I am really inclined to tread carefully here since - per a couple of recently active threads - it's all too easy to screw up and fry a few hundred dollars worth of ECU's. I know there was a recent group buy for AOB switches, and I assume that some of you guys received the same wiring diagram from AOB and have installed your switches on 2012's. So the question is: Which did you use - Diagram 1 or Diagram 2?

I have already spent way over an hour searching and have looked at a couple hundred posts, but apparently my little pea-brain just can't quite figure this one out. It looks to me like I should use Diagram 1 and tap my LED light bar relay trigger from the Green / Black Stripe wire on my left highbeam. Is that what you guys did? Anyone? I already have a handful of 1N4001's sitting around, and really don't care which way it goes - I just want to get it wired and done with.

EDIT: My VOM sez that the White / Black Stripe wire goes to ground when the highbeams are both on and off, and the Green / Black Stripe wire is + 12 v. exactly when the highbeams are on. This would suggest that Diagram 1 is in effect. Then why did AoB send the 2 wiring diagrams and say that Diagram 2 should be used for "newer models"? Does AoB consider the 2010-13 4Runners to be "Diagram 1 - older models" and the 2014-15's to be "Diagram 2 - newer models"? No one seems to know. Still don't even know whether their diagrams apply to 4Runners or not - or just Hilux / Prado. Why is this so damn difficult?
 

Attachments

  • aob.diagram.jpg
    aob.diagram.jpg
    132.3 KB · Views: 17,806
  • wiring.diagram.jpg
    wiring.diagram.jpg
    75.2 KB · Views: 10,578
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
I used diagram #1 but also didn't hook up the switch to the headlight power, but directly to a switched +12 source under the dash.

I think it's really going to depend on what voltage you have at the point where you tap into the headlights. If you measure +12v between the tap and ground with the headlights off, then you need to wire it like #2, if it's 0v then use #1.
 
Last edited:
I used Diagram 1 for a compressor, rear lights and driving lights. I have general aux power for the compressor and rear lights and the driving light switch set up with power from the high beams. I do use a 3 amp diode here. (see my build thread) For the High beam power, I used a 9005 extension from Amazon (like $5) to tap into then just plugged into the High beam connectors. Totally removable too.

Have fun!
 
I am in the same boat as the OP and want to ensure I have the right wires as well before I finish my wiring. Please confirm or correct the way I plan to hook up my AOB switch.

Note: I do not want to run this off of high/low beams but to direct power

Black - chasis ground
Blue - wire tap to the green wiper warmer switch
Green - tap into blank (switched power) spot on fuse panel (anyone know a good spot?)
Red - connect to blue wire off the Rigid LED light bar wiring relay.

Does this sound correct?
 
I am in the same boat as the OP and want to ensure I have the right wires as well before I finish my wiring. Please confirm or correct the way I plan to hook up my AOB switch.

Note: I do not want to run this off of high/low beams but to direct power

Black - chasis ground
Blue - wire tap to the green wiper warmer switch
Green - tap into blank (switched power) spot on fuse panel (anyone know a good spot?)
Red - connect to blue wire off the Rigid LED light bar wiring relay.

Does this sound correct?

I followed these instructions and it worked perfectly.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192198-switch-not-switch.html#post1960113
 
I'm not seeing a very clear instruction of how to do the install in this link. It seems to be more of a what not to do.

The last paragraph has the specific instructions I used. I connected the green/yellow wire to the cigarette lighter, the Red/Yellow to the relay, the Blue/Yellow to the Green wire of the RSCA switch and the Black wire to the Gray wire of the RSCA switch.

"Tap into whichever stock button on the dash is easiest to get to... I chose the RSCA (restraint system curtain airbag). The Green wire is the courtesy lighting circuit (HOT), which connects to your parking lights. The Gray wire connects to the GND junction and ultimately the 'Dimmer dial' or rheostat. Be particularly careful NOT to hit this wire with 12V... or else lol!"
 
The last paragraph has the specific instructions I used. I connected the green/yellow wire to the cigarette lighter, the Red/Yellow to the relay, the Blue/Yellow to the Green wire of the RSCA switch and the Black wire to the Gray wire of the RSCA switch.

"Tap into whichever stock button on the dash is easiest to get to... I chose the RSCA (restraint system curtain airbag). The Green wire is the courtesy lighting circuit (HOT), which connects to your parking lights. The Gray wire connects to the GND junction and ultimately the 'Dimmer dial' or rheostat. Be particularly careful NOT to hit this wire with 12V... or else lol!"

Great explanation. Thank you!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top