ARB compressor/ AOB switch install

cjacob316

New member
I have managed to find pretty detailed write ups about everything I've wanted to do or will do in the future to my 4runner with the exception of an ARB compressor install, specifically using AOB switches instead of the ARB switch. I know the instructions with the compressor are pretty fool proof, but I know I would have appreciated a write up on it to make some of the work a little easier to figure out.

I received the CKMA12 as a gift for Christmas, and as I waited for the inflation kit, I did little research and prepped the AOB switch harnesses. I already have two AOB switches, one for the compressor and one for a future light bar, and I also have a compressor mount from a member here.

After looking through the parts and reading the instructions, I came up with a slight "problem" I wanted to make sure I solved in the install. For some reason the inline fuse was installed about a foot away from the compressor and over five feet away from the battery end. First thing was first, I cut back the tape to give myself some room and cut off the fuse.


Later I took the battery end of the cable, stripped it and used a butt connector and some heat shrink to attach it to one side of the gap, lined up the wire, cut it to size, and then connect the other side of the gap. afterwards I taped it back up just for fun, trying to make it look like it came that way.



Then I shoved everything into a split loom and taped the ends. I then taped up the locker solenoid connectors just to protect them.



Next up I prepped the switch harnesses. I am not using the compressor for lockers, at least not yet, but I still wanted to use the main harness for a few reasons. It will allow me to be able to just plug in a switch for a locker down the road if I want to add one, It provides me with multiple wires to light switches but only had to tap one wire into the factory dash lights, and it provides numerous ground wires. Otherwise you can just hook your switch into the first part of the harness that you pull through the firewall instead of dealing with the three switch harness. I just put spade connectors onto the ends of the wires for the switches and they fit nicely into the female ends from the ARB wiring harness. From the AOB switch to ARB harness you want to go:

AOB --> ARB
Black --> Black
Blue/Yellow --> Blue/White
Red/Yellow --> Red
Green/Yellow --> Red/Yellow




Once my inflation kit came in, I test fit the pump and mount in a few positions. I had to drill extra holes since this mount was made for the dual compressor so I wanted to make sure I got it just right... I failed, I placed the pump too close to the fender well and just could not get my hands in to bolt down the mount, so I had to drill more holes. But I eventually got it mounted up, I took some of the pictures before I moved the compressor on the mount.



I ran the wires for the switch through the little nub above the main harness. I just cut it off and fed it though with a fish tape and some grease. I also fed through a harness for a led light bar I want to add later. I wanted to go ahead and get all the wires through at once, and I wanted to use the 12v supply for the switch from the light bar harness for the compressor switch as well.



These are the wires for the AOB switch for the future light bar and the Red/Yellow 12v supply wire for the ARB harness. I Attached the Red/Yellow wire from the ARB harness and the Green/Yellow wire from the light bar switch to a spade connector, then attached that to the light bar wire harness. Now I have a 12 supply for the light bar switch and all the switches on the ARB harness.



I cut the green wire for the wiper de-icer and used a butt connector to attach the Blue/White wire from the ARB harness with the green wire to illuminate the switch with the dash lights. I plugged the Blue/Yellow wire from the AOB light bar switch to the Blue/White wire for "switch 2" of the ARB harness since this switch will likely never be used by me given I already have one locker.



I tucked everything up and tested the dash lights. I Need to go back at some point and trim down all the excess wires. I just didn't have all the proper parts or time to do it today.



Lastly, I hooked up all the power and zip tied the ARB wire loom along the top of the firewall. I ran the loom under the mount to avoid the heat from the pump melting the wires or connectors.

 
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What amp fuse does that compressor take??? I was going to go to my blue sea as well, but my twin had 2 fuses that exceeded the fuse max of the box... left my fuses inline and ran power off my auxiliary breaker.
 
What amp fuse does that compressor take??? I was going to go to my blue sea as well, but my twin had 2 fuses that exceeded the fuse max of the box... left my fuses inline and ran power off my auxiliary breaker.

It's a 40 amp fuse. I tossed the idea around of using a slot on the blue sea box since the amp draw under load is less than 30 amps, but I decided to leave the inline 40 amp fuse and attached the lines to the pos and neg studs on the fuse box with the cables from the battery. That way I can still "use" the fuse box without exceeding the maximum amps for the slots.
 
Can I ask where you got the mount from? A member thats making them or just someone who was selling one? Looks really nice!
 
Great write up and nice pics. How's your compressor working out?

Do you need an additional 3A fuse for the AOB switch as per the AOB wiring diagram?

Does the compressor run with your pos + neg tied to the Blue Sea fuse block? Thanks for posting this it will save a lot of folks time!
 
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Can I ask where you got the mount from? A member thats making them or just someone who was selling one? Looks really nice!

[MENTION=125603]bandi[/MENTION] makes them, he is a member here. Very reasonably priced.

Great write up and nice pics. How's your compressor working out?

Do you need an additional 3A fuse for the AOB switch as per the AOB wiring diagram?

Does the compressor run with your pos + neg tied to the Blue Sea fuse block? Thanks for posting this it will save a lot of folks time!

I used the 12v power from a light bar harness for the switch power, it uses the fuse for that harness.

Yes the compressor is wired to the block, but to the "incoming" studs, not through the fuse panel.
 
Love the AOB switches and the factory fit! I have a few for my Gobi lights. How's the compressor working out in that location?
 
Looking good!

Great write up. I installed the same compressor with an AOB switch. Love the OEM look of the AOBs. We installed 5 switches and have 2 hooked up so far. Waiting on our roof rack before we can hook up 2 more sets of lights.
 
Where can I find a mount for the ARB. In the engine bay what's the best position??

See above...the bandi mount is pretty good. I got it over the Slee (which is local to us here in the front range) because I wanted to mount mine on the passenger side rear of the engine bay. Send me a PM with you cell and I'll shoot you some pics. Don't have any on the computer.
 
See above...the bandi mount is pretty good. I got it over the Slee (which is local to us here in the front range) because I wanted to mount mine on the passenger side rear of the engine bay. Send me a PM with you cell and I'll shoot you some pics. Don't have any on the computer.
Here's some photos of the Bandi mount. I picked this one last week. Solid mounting solution for the ARB compressor. He has a few different options as well.

6cde86aeb1ffc37aac807bb164fa6e09.jpg
da07f1fffe3c04f34044714e8d8a4c15.jpg
8642e174bab348228b5c9c381d3257e0.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 
These are the wires for the AOB switch for the future light bar and the Red/Yellow 12v supply wire for the ARB harness. I Attached the Red/Yellow wire from the ARB harness and the Green/Yellow wire from the light bar switch to a spade connector, then attached that to the light bar wire harness. Now I have a 12 supply for the light bar switch and all the switches on the ARB harness.


If I am not running a light bar harness can you recommend where I should tap in the red/yellow wire?
 
These are the wires for the AOB switch for the future light bar and the Red/Yellow 12v supply wire for the ARB harness. I Attached the Red/Yellow wire from the ARB harness and the Green/Yellow wire from the light bar switch to a spade connector, then attached that to the light bar wire harness. Now I have a 12 supply for the light bar switch and all the switches on the ARB harness.


If I am not running a light bar harness can you recommend where I should tap in the red/yellow wire?

I believe it has to be tied into a 12v power supply. I am running this now and am planning on tapping into the dimmer switch. I believe it is the green wire that supplies power to that switch.
 
These are the wires for the AOB switch for the future light bar and the Red/Yellow 12v supply wire for the ARB harness. I Attached the Red/Yellow wire from the ARB harness and the Green/Yellow wire from the light bar switch to a spade connector, then attached that to the light bar wire harness. Now I have a 12 supply for the light bar switch and all the switches on the ARB harness.


If I am not running a light bar harness can you recommend where I should tap in the red/yellow wire?

I believe it has to be tied into a 12v power supply. I am running this now and am planning on tapping into the dimmer http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/222282-cymons-weekend-warrior-mfd-thread-3.htmlswitch. I believe it is the green wire that supplies power to that switch.

What [MENTION=103396]4rnrgrl[/MENTION] said.
AOB blue to wiper warmer Green for dimming.

I have the wiring for AOB in this light bar write-up.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/222834-if-i-can-do-you-can-behind-grill-light-bar-install.html

And here is a write-up on the AOB switch install.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/222282-cymons-weekend-warrior-mfd-thread-3.html
 
We're working on a similar install this week as well. We're hoping you guys could take a look at how we believe we're supposed to make the connections and let us know if we've got it right or not??? The instructions and wire colors seemed to have changed some from previous threads we've checked out.

AOB instructions
AOB instructions.jpg

These are the plugs we got with the switches.
AOB Plug.jpg

ARB instructions
ARB instructions.jpg

So just in case the hand-writing isn't showing up well enough I've typed it out here:


Isolation Switch:
ARB ---> AOB
Red/Yel -- > Red
Red ---> Green
Blu/wht --> Blue
Black ---> Black

Switch 1 (R):
ARB ---> AOB
Red ----> Red
Yel -----> Grn
Blu/wht ---> Blue
Black ----> Black

Switch 2 (F):
ARB ---> AOB
Yel ---> Red
Dk Grn ---> Green
Blu/Wht ---> Blue
Black ---> Black


Does this make sense/look right????

Thanks!!!
 

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We're working on a similar install this week as well. We're hoping you guys could take a look at how we believe we're supposed to make the connections and let us know if we've got it right or not??? The instructions and wire colors seemed to have changed some from previous threads we've checked out.

So just in case the hand-writing isn't showing up well enough I've typed it out here:


Isolation Switch:
ARB ---> AOB
Red/Yel -- > Red
Red ---> Green
Blu/wht --> Blue
Black ---> Black

Switch 1 (R):
ARB ---> AOB
Red ----> Red
Yel -----> Grn
Blu/wht ---> Blue
Black ----> Black

Switch 2 (F):
ARB ---> AOB
Yel ---> Red
Dk Grn ---> Green
Blu/Wht ---> Blue
Black ---> Black


Does this make sense/look right????

Thanks!!!

I'm preparing to wire an ARB compressor loom to an AOB switch. This moment, the way I've wired it up (based on the wiring schematics that came along with ARB/AOB) matches what you've written for the Isolation Switch. Going to test with a meter and triple check. Did you have success with the way you've planned it?
 
Question?

I'm considering adding a compressor to my T4R, I have a hand held unit that works just fine, but a more permanent solution would be cool.


Just curious, but please help me understand.

So if the air compressor is under the hood, and you have to pop the hood to use it and hook up the hose or air line and then run it out to the tire, air mattress, blow-up doll or whatever...........why is the switch in the cab?

Wouldn't it make more sense to just mount a switch of some kind on the mount right next to the compressor? or on the inside of the fender wall close by.

Or am I just lazy and don't like poking holes into the cab for no reason....or am I too lazy to run back and forth between the cab, the engine bay, my blow-up doll and back to the cab to shut her down and then back to the compressor to unhook her, I'm getting dizzy just thinking about it.

Also seems like a wasted switch spot/blank when we already have so few to use already......

??????
 
I'm considering adding a compressor to my T4R, I have a hand held unit that works just fine, but a more permanent solution would be cool.

Just curious, but please help me understand.

??????

The ARB compressors are geared to multipurpose application, ie, lockers AND using air for tires/tools. For locker operation, the switches are going to be in the cabin, and consequently, if you also want air for tires.

I picked up a CKMA12 because of a great price and the pressure switch, and am going through the motions of install. If I could have a choice between pre-made looms for under hood or in cabin, I'd 100% go with under the hood. I already have the oem locker, and I don't care about switches.
 
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