ARB fridge....need for a Jumper on relay?

canadiansr5

New member
With my new fridge on the way i was curious as to what people are running with their ARB fridges. When the fridge is plugged in to the cig outlet in the rear, and the truce is off, with the fridge continue to run? or will it only run when the ignition is on? as well is there a need for a jumper on the relay to feed continuous power to these outlets. any power loss along the line causing the fridge to lose power spontaneously. The reason i ask is where i bought the fridge they mentioned that they run an alternate wiring loom strictly for the fridge from the battery to provide consistent power. any input would greatly be appreciated. :cheers:
 
Register to hide this ad
With my new fridge on the way i was curious as to what people are running with their ARB fridges. When the fridge is plugged in to the cig outlet in the rear, and the truce is off, with the fridge continue to run? or will it only run when the ignition is on? as well is there a need for a jumper on the relay to feed continuous power to these outlets. any power loss along the line causing the fridge to lose power spontaneously. The reason i ask is where i bought the fridge they mentioned that they run an alternate wiring loom strictly for the fridge from the battery to provide consistent power. any input would greatly be appreciated. :cheers:

If you are talking about plugging it into the factory cigarette lighter outlet that is in the trunk area, then yes it will turn off once the vehicle is turned off. What you need to do is run a connection straight back from the battery to where ever the fridge is going, like they told you. Remember to fuse it near the battery connection end of the harness! :)

I've also heard that it is a good time to switch over to powerlet style connector for a more secure connection vs. the standard cigarette lighter plug. Powerlet Products - Rugged power outlets, cables and electronics

Of course this is optional, but it would suck to not realize that you unknowingly bumped your cigarette lighter connector a little bit and the fridge is actually not full plugged in. Nobody likes a lukewarm beer :(
 
Nobody likes a lukewarm beer :(

aint that the truth. thanks for the info. now ill just have to do some searching into kick panel removal and such. as well...suggestions on whether a relay would be a benefit up near the drive so that i would have the ability to cut the power if wanted.
 
aint that the truth. thanks for the info. now ill just have to do some searching into kick panel removal and such. as well...suggestions on whether a relay would be a benefit up near the drive so that i would have the ability to cut the power if wanted.

Relays are always a handy thing to have, I would do it if it was my install :)

If I may suggest...since you will be going through the trouble of running a wire from the engine bay all the way to the trunk, perhaps it would be a good time to just run one fat wire back and install a fuse block in the trunk instead (to future proof your wiring, because you know eventually you're going to want to add more gadgets back there, lol).

ST Blade - Blue Sea Systems
 
Relays are always a handy thing to have, I would do it if it was my install :)

If I may suggest...since you will be going through the trouble of running a wire from the engine bay all the way to the trunk, perhaps it would be a good time to just run one fat wire back and install a fuse block in the trunk instead (to future proof your wiring, because you know eventually you're going to want to add more gadgets back there, lol).

oh the possibilities are endless it seems. i have been looking into switches and would like as close to OEM as i can find...(to appease the lady) but 4th gen runners are hard to come by at the auto wreckers around here. i may check with the stealer....but they usually want your first born for parts. any idea if the OEM switches (like the sub woofer switch for instance) would work for this application???
 
Last edited:
oh the possibilities are endless it seems. i have been looking into switches and would like as close to OEM as i can find...(to appease the lady) but 4th gen runners are hard to come by at the auto wreckers around here. i may check with the stealer....but they usually want your first born for parts. any idea if the OEM switches (like the sub woofer switch for instance) would work for this application???

It's a fog light switch, but I think it just might work out for what you want to do...http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html

I guess if you can get over the fact that the symbol is a fog light and not a fridge, you should be go to go. Me personally, it would bother me forever, lol.
 
It's a fog light switch, but I think it just might work out for what you want to do...http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/159174-factory-style-fog-light-switch-fits-knock-out.html

I guess if you can get over the fact that the symbol is a fog light and not a fridge, you should be go to go. Me personally, it would bother me forever, lol.

Right on thanks!! Ya it would drive me mental having the lights on the switch...but I think I got that covered. I'll just strip the symbol off and get some decal letters from a hobby shop and spell 'fridge' or something like that on the switch itself. Problem resolved!!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,111
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top