ARB Fridge power requirements, here's the numbers for you!

[wild_turkey]

White Lithium Grease

Another tip for pulling the wires through the grommet is to use some white lithium grease. After I cut the extra nipple off the grommet, I applied the grease to both the grommet and the wires I was pulling through. I taped my wires to a coat hanger to pull through. I thought I was in for a fight pulling my bundle of 8 wires through for all my switches, but the lube helped it slip right through!

 

[Jhalko]

The ARB wires really don't need any lube, since they are stiff and have a protective coating they seem to go right through the hole.

:lol:

 

[LawnDart]

The ARB wires really don't need any lube, since they are stiff and have a protective coating they seem to go right through the hole.

:lol:

#thatswhatshesaid

 

[TRDPRORUNNER]

Awesome info and appreciate it guys... Love the custom connections you all have done. I'll try on the grommet again. Just hesitant to force too much as there is a serious loom going through it already. So I'm clear on what you guys are saying... the 3' grommet is only being used by the 1" bundle going through now, so I have another inch or so around its center to cut a hole in the rubber grommet rather than trying to go through the existing center hole that the loom is already in? Sorry just never done this... Thanks!

 

[TRDPRORUNNER]

There is a large gromet with a cable bundle going through it. The gromet is about 3" across so there is plenty of room. Just take an exacto knife and cut a small X on one side. Then push the cable through, then pull it from the inside. Really simple. Make sure the fuse is near the battery (within 18").

I ran down the driver side and mounted a new port.

I really like what you've done on this. Where did you get your panel? I like the option of the USB too so I can charge the phone on overnight camping with a "always hot" 12v connection. Thanks

 

[tigger]

I really like what you've done on this. Where did you get your panel? I like the option of the USB too so I can charge the phone on overnight camping with a "always hot" 12v connection. Thanks

Amazon.com: ISWEES 12V Car Cigarette Lighter + Dual Socket USB Adapter Charger & Digital Voltmeter: MP3 Players & Accessories

And yes, if you push on the grommet you will feel how much room there is. You don't want to go next to the current bundle to prevent damage to the existing wires. I have a 4 ga wire and an 8 wire bundle going through. Plenty of room for cables. If you look, there is a nipple that you can cut the tip off of and use, but I prefer to go through the flat part.

 

[Runamok]

There is a large gromet with a cable bundle going through it. The gromet is about 3" across so there is plenty of room. Just take an exacto knife and cut a small X on one side. Then push the cable through, then pull it from the inside. Really simple. Make sure the fuse is near the battery (within 18").

I ran down the driver side and mounted a new port.

Any chance you could hook me up with how it all connects together with the switch and all? I would like the same setup but I am really new to all this. I got the arb kit wire to the back passenger side ready to go, only took me 2 days to figure that part out!

Thx

 

[tigger]

Any chance you could hook me up with how it all connects together with the switch and all? I would like the same setup but I am really new to all this. I got the arb kit wire to the back passenger side ready to go, only took me 2 days to figure that part out!

Thx

There is a single main 8 gauge power and ground wire that all tie into. The USB and Power Port are tied directly to the power and ground. No switch. The gauge is on the switch as I didn't want it on all of the time.

The switch is wired up with - to the main ground wire, C to the main positive cable, + and NO are jumpered together and ran to the gauge positive. The gauge neg is ran to the ground wire.

Hope that helps.

 

[Runamok]

There is a single main 8 gauge power and ground wire that all tie into. The USB and Power Port are tied directly to the power and ground. No switch. The gauge is on the switch as I didn't want it on all of the time.

The switch is wired up with - to the main ground wire, C to the main positive cable, + and NO are jumpered together and ran to the gauge positive. The gauge neg is ran to the ground wire.

Hope that helps.

So this is very helpful thx! If I wanted the switch turn on an off all three would that be possible? And also what switch is it and where did you get it?

 

[tigger]

So this is very helpful thx! If I wanted the switch turn on an off all three would that be possible? And also what switch is it and where did you get it?

It is possible but not with just a switch like this. You would really want to use a relay and have the switch control the relay.

The switch is from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Ulincos®-Lat..._SR160,160_&psc=1&refRID=PAD8V1V8GMG9W72BADY3

 

[JEMP1003]

What's better, switch or always hot?
Wiring up the fridge next weekend, but not sure what route to go, straight to the battery, or have a switch along the way?

I now this is a personal preference question, but would be nice to hear arguments of the pros/cons of both.

Thanks

 

[Ducmonsta]

What's better, switch or always hot?
Wiring up the fridge next weekend, but not sure what route to go, straight to the battery, or have a switch along the way?

I now this is a personal preference question, but would be nice to hear arguments of the pros/cons of both.

Thanks

I think you kind of answered your own question. One isn't better than the other, it's personal preference. As long as both options are wired properly, it doesn't matter what route you choose.

Your question about wiring straight to the battery or having a switch isn't valid. The power wire should always go straight to the battery (or junction nearby). The switch should only turn on/off the properly amped relay.

 

[LawnDart]

I think you kind of answered your own question. One isn't better than the other, it's personal preference. As long as both options are wired properly, it doesn't matter what route you choose.

Your question about wiring straight to the battery or having a switch isn't valid. The power wire should always go straight to the battery (or junction nearby). The switch should only turn on/off the properly amped relay.

Listen to Bobby. He's smart.

 

[JEMP1003]

I think you kind of answered your own question. One isn't better than the other, it's personal preference. As long as both options are wired properly, it doesn't matter what route you choose.

Your question about wiring straight to the battery or having a switch isn't valid. The power wire should always go straight to the battery (or junction nearby). The switch should only turn on/off the properly amped relay.

ha! you got me there
This will be my first electrical mod on the 4Runner, so basically I'm thinking of going straight from the battery or going ahead of getting the relay/fuses(Bussmann/sPod/etc) box in preparation for the future stuff I'll need switches for (basically spend the money now, or later :lmao

 

[sooperslow]

I found a solution that works great for me. I keep the fridge plugged into a goal zero battery, and keep the battery plugged into the switched AC outlet in the back of the 4runner. Goal Zero battery keeps the fridge running overnight. If needed, I can charge the Goal Zero battery using solar panels, but keep it charged while driving. Like this option because it isolates the fridge from the vehicle battery.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jrandom]

What's better, switch or always hot?

I have mine always hot.

The power wire should always go straight to the battery (or junction nearby). The switch should only turn on/off the properly amped relay.

Only quoting for agreement.

I use one of these for my distribution (of course this is the newer version that came out right after I installed mine, go figure). One side is switched relay/fuse and the other side is just fused. For example, I have all of my auxiliary lighting, accessories, and compressor wired to the key controlled switched relay side and the fridge wired to the always hot side. Its is a nice distribution block, 70a relay (well mine is the older 50a), and up to 60a jcase fuses.

This is the newer that will accept a delphi 800 terminals and sealed connector, instead of thread studs.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46094/Bussmann-37702-2AA0022-Power-Relay-Module-/

 

[sroodtuo]

I have mine always hot.



Only quoting for agreement.

I use one of these for my distribution (of course this is the newer version that came out right after I installed mine, go figure). One side is switched relay/fuse and the other side is just fused. For example, I have all of my auxiliary lighting, accessories, and compressor wired to the key controlled switched relay side and the fridge wired to the always hot side. Its is a nice distribution block, 70a relay (well mine is the older 50a), and up to 60a jcase fuses.

This is the newer that will accept a delphi 800 terminals and sealed connector, instead of thread studs.
https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46094/Bussmann-37702-2AA0022-Power-Relay-Module-/

Can you add some photos of how and where you mounted? This is interesting to me and something I'd like to explore further.

 

[jrandom]

Can you add some photos of how and where you mounted? This is interesting to me and something I'd like to explore further.

Sure I'll snap a pick and describe it tomorrow. I really dig it. Although I could have done a far cleaner job with the newer version, I may just drop the $30 to get another and terminal set.

 

[e60ral]

I also have my fridge on always hot with no switch, if i need to disconnect the wire for some reason i can just remove the fuse

 

[jrandom]

Can you add some photos of how and where you mounted? This is interesting to me and something I'd like to explore further.

Here is a pic, you'll have to forgive the mess, this is in the middle of the project, I have a better ground block and bussman RTMR relay/fuse block to add, I just haven't had the time to build and wire the bussman. Obviously need to fab a bigger mount to accommodate.

Pretty self explanatory. I mounted the distribution relay on a piece of 2" Al angle on top of a piece of Lexan. The delphi control plug that runs the relay goes through the firewall to main fuse block. I added a custom "tap-a-fuse" to a fuse that is only ignition on hot (I would have to look to see which one I used, can't remember off the top of my head, I do know that I was unable to find one in the engine compartment fuse block, something I found a bit odd).

Ya know after seeing what I did (hah I had kinda forgot) I think I am definitely going to get the updated distro relay I linked to earlier. LOL I am kinda pissed the way the studded connections came out, they look pretty ghetto. I couldn't find the right size terminal sleeves to cover them up with. I recall having a pretty difficult time getting the ones I got on with the 4 wires+ring connectors. Anyway...