ARB locker switch to R/R Diff Lock Light Wiring

[martin770]

I was hunting all over for this info, so I'm adding it here in case it's useful to anyone else.

2000 4Runner
How to wire the factory R/R Diff Lock dash light to an ARB Locker switch:
1. This light activates when the wire sees ground, so you'll need a 12v SPST relay (like Viair # 93940 or RadioShack # 275-001).
More info on relays here: Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays
2. Open the Dash
3. Find the wire going to the R/R Diff Lock dash light (for me, pin 6 blue/yellow)
4. Attach the wires for the light, switch, and relay
a. Switch +12v Input from Compressor Switch output
b. Ground to Switch Ground
c. Ground to Relay 30 (common ground)
d. Ground to Relay 85 (relay coil)
c. Switch Out to Relay 86 (relay coil)
d. Dash Light to Relay 87 (normal open)
e. Switch Out to Locker Solenoid

With this setup, the ARB switch won't be active unless the compressor switch is turned on. When you hit the ARB switch, it activates the locker and the RR dash light (activates the relay coil which connects the dash light to ground).

Thanks to:
ARB install page larsdennert.com

 

[martin770]

2000 4Runner
How to wire the 4WD dash light to an ARB FRONT Locker switch:
1. To wire the FRONT switch so that it requires 4WD to be active AND the compressor switch turned on, you'll need a 12v DPDT relay (Radio Shack #275-218)
2. Open the Dash
3. Find the wire going to the 4WD indicator light (for me, pin 5 green/black). Hint: the light activates when you connect this wire to ground
4. Cut the wire and tap into the 2 cut ends, mark one as 4WD Lamp and one as 4WD ECM
5. Find the wire that supplies power to the gauge cluster (yellow-black, pin 8 of block 1F of driver's side fuse block, see diagram)
6. Splice into the wire, and label it Gauge +12v

7. Attach the wires for the light, switch, and relay
a. Ground to ARB Switch Ground
b. 4WD ECU to Relay A (relay coil)
c. Gauge +12v to Relay B (relay coil)
d. 4WD Lamp to Relay 5 (common 1)
e. Ground to Relay 3 (normal closed 1)
f. Compressor Switch +12v Output to Relay 6 (common 2)
g. Switch In +12v from Relay 4 (common 2)
h. Switch Out to Locker Solenoid

With this setup, the FRONT locker switch won't be active unless the compressor switch is turned on AND the 4WD light is active. Both lockers can be independently selectable, but it prevents you from engaging the front locker in 2WD. (when you shift into 4WD, the relay throws ground to the 4WD Lamp, and also completes the other +12v circuit to supply power to the locker solenoid switch)


This is the original circuit (sorta):

Here's what it will look like after:

I'm not sure what other uses there would be for a bypass like this, but it could turn other things on/off automatically when you go from 2WD/4WD.

 

[Jaysen4runner]

MY 97 have a open slot with no pin or wire to the rear diff lock?

 

[Devbot]

Gonna perform some necromancy on this thread cause it seemed like the most appropriate place to ask...
Would all this be possible with the OEM switch? I really want to use the original locker switch above everything, but having it also tied to the original lights would be super cool too
:deadhorse:

 

[Bad Luck]

Gonna perform some necromancy on this thread cause it seemed like the most appropriate place to ask...
Would all this be possible with the OEM switch? I really want to use the original locker switch above everything, but having it also tied to the original lights would be super cool too
:deadhorse:

I don't see why not. You'd have to put the ground wire for the rear diff lock indicator for the instrument cluster on a relay that completes the circuit to ground when the rear locker switch is depressed. Here's a 2000 EWD in case you don't have one: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/zu8ywkj4... Printable?dl=0&lst=&subfolder_nav_tracking=1 Rear diff locker wiring schematic is 182.

 

[sleepydad]

Gonna perform some necromancy on this thread cause it seemed like the most appropriate place to ask...
Would all this be possible with the OEM switch? I really want to use the original locker switch above everything, but having it also tied to the original lights would be super cool too
:deadhorse:

These might help a bit?

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3676635-post323.html

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3680136-post238.html

if I remember correctly the cluster has +12V to all the indicator bulbs, you just have to ground the correct pins

combo meter pin 8 yellow blue Y−L connector C10, just ground it when you switch is on. boom got RR dif lock. Both my clusters had a bulb already when I checked but your going to have to get in there anyways so just don't forget to check.

I used the 80 series switch but the 4runner one should be easy to find as well. You might want to hit a junk yard and grab that C10 connector because you will have to harvest a pin and wire as well.

Pretty sure this is the C10, that yellow blue wire is 8, that is the wire you want
<a href="https://imgur.com/yrVCGKO"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/yrVCGKOl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[Devbot]

These might help a bit?

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3676635-post323.html

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3680136-post238.html

if I remember correctly the cluster has +12V to all the indicator bulbs, you just have to ground the correct pins

combo meter pin 8 yellow blue Y−L connector C10, just ground it when you switch is on. boom got RR dif lock. Both my clusters had a bulb already when I checked but your going to have to get in there anyways so just don't forget to check.

I used the 80 series switch but the 4runner one should be easy to find as well. You might want to hit a junk yard and grab that C10 connector because you will have to harvest a pin and wire as well.

Pretty sure this is the C10, that yellow blue wire is 8, that is the wire you want
<a href="https://imgur.com/yrVCGKO"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/yrVCGKOl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

They don't help that much unfortunately but I'm interested to hear more with how few wires you ran - the less the better. Not your fault mind you, I'm just bad with wiring and have never wired an air locker before (doesn't help I'm still awaiting on it to arrive either)
Is the goal to grab the C10 plug off an e-locked vehicle and use it to replace the one behind the dash, and use that Y-B wire for the switch - or something along those lines? If so I like how simple that sounds if you could explain more. It's been about a year since I've been behind the dash so I'll probably take a quick peek to better get what you're saying
The OEM switch/pigtail only has two wires for what it's worth; not sure if you used the two or three wired switch that you linked

 

[sleepydad]

They don't help that much unfortunately but I'm interested to hear more with how few wires you ran - the less the better. Not your fault mind you, I'm just bad with wiring and have never wired an air locker before (doesn't help I'm still awaiting on it to arrive either)
Is the goal to grab the C10 plug off an e-locked vehicle and use it to replace the one behind the dash, and use that Y-B wire for the switch - or something along those lines? If so I like how simple that sounds if you could explain more. It's been about a year since I've been behind the dash so I'll probably take a quick peek to better get what you're saying
The OEM switch/pigtail only has two wires for what it's worth; not sure if you used the two or three wired switch that you linked

I have ARB lockers so my wire stuff might be a bit different if your doing toyota e-locker?

I ran two different setups, two different trucks.

#1 rear ARB locker

the switch I used just has 2 wires. you can use the switch as a ground.

if the switch is in the off position the ground is open so the circuit is not complete, nothing happens.

if the switch is in the on position the ground is closed and completes the circuit and stuff happens.

#2 setup has both front and rear, so 3 wires. but it's just a separate ground for the front/rear. pretty much the same setup with just a specific ground for front/rear.

as for the plug you don't need a specific e-locked vehicle C10 plug, you just need a wire with the correct pin so you can plug that into your C10 plug. I was just lucky enough to find a 99 e-locker in the junk yard the day I went.

you can just de-pin one of the pins from that C10 plug and send that wire to your ground on your switch, when you turn your switch on it will ground that wire and the locker light will turn on.

so really only need the C10 plug to get a wire/pin that will work for that plug. pretty much any 3rd gen should work, shoot for same year if you can they did change wire stuff often between the years.

I'm terrible at explaining things... does that make sense?

 

[Devbot]

I have ARB lockers so my wire stuff might be a bit different if your doing toyota e-locker?

I ran two different setups, two different trucks.

#1 rear ARB locker

the switch I used just has 2 wires. you can use the switch as a ground.

if the switch is in the off position the ground is open so the circuit is not complete, nothing happens.

if the switch is in the on position the ground is closed and completes the circuit and stuff happens.

#2 setup has both front and rear, so 3 wires. but it's just a separate ground for the front/rear. pretty much the same setup with just a specific ground for front/rear.

as for the plug you don't need a specific e-locked vehicle C10 plug, you just need a wire with the correct pin so you can plug that into your C10 plug. I was just lucky enough to find a 99 e-locker in the junk yard the day I went.

you can just de-pin one of the pins from that C10 plug and send that wire to your ground on your switch, when you turn your switch on it will ground that wire and the locker light will turn on.

so really only need the C10 plug to get a wire/pin that will work for that plug. pretty much any 3rd gen should work, shoot for same year if you can they did change wire stuff often between the years.

I'm terrible at explaining things... does that make sense?

Yeah that makes quite a bit more sense, I think I'm getting you now; pin a wire to position 8 on the C10 connector and run it to the switch's ground. I'm a little lost on where the solenoid comes into play here though, since 12V is sent to the light is the solenoid tapped to the positive lead? Or does it get sent to the ground as well, and the positive connects to the power lead from the ARB harness?
Sorry if that's an obvious question, I don't mean to have my hand held; I'm trying to look at a PDF of both Toyota's and ARB's wiring diagrams for reference but it's only getting me so far with my limited understanding :brick:

 

[sleepydad]

Yeah that makes quite a bit more sense, I think I'm getting you now; pin a wire to position 8 on the C10 connector and run it to the switch's ground. I'm a little lost on where the solenoid comes into play here though, since 12V is sent to the light is the solenoid tapped to the positive lead? Or does it get sent to the ground as well, and the positive connects to the power lead from the ARB harness?
Sorry if that's an obvious question, I don't mean to have my hand held; I'm trying to look at a PDF of both Toyota's and ARB's wiring diagrams for reference but it's only getting me so far with my limited understanding :brick:

This is my setup, I cut up the ARB harness and used their plug ends but this is basically what I did. The compressor, solenoid are always 12V+ and always on. Then it's just the ground thru the switch.

<a href="https://imgur.com/IB3sby3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/IB3sby3.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I did not show the pressure switch but it's always on as well since it just gets connected and grounded thru the body of the compressor I think. not 100% sure how the cutoff works exactly internally.

I hope this helps? your not going to be able to use the ARB harness like it is and your going to have to chop it up.

 

[Devbot]

This is my setup, I cut up the ARB harness and used their plug ends but this is basically what I did. The compressor, solenoid are always 12V+ and always on. Then it's just the ground thru the switch.

<a href="https://imgur.com/IB3sby3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/IB3sby3.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I did not show the pressure switch but it's always on as well since it just gets connected and grounded thru the body of the compressor I think. not 100% sure how the cutoff works exactly internally.

I hope this helps? your not going to be able to use the ARB harness like it is and your going to have to chop it up.

Oooh I see, I was picturing it kinda backwards. Thanks for the help, I'll probably end up going this route. I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out once I'm looking at all the pieces instead of staring at PDFs :thumb:

 

[Devbot]

This is my setup, I cut up the ARB harness and used their plug ends but this is basically what I did. The compressor, solenoid are always 12V+ and always on. Then it's just the ground thru the switch...
I hope this helps? your not going to be able to use the ARB harness like it is and your going to have to chop it up.

Sorry for the spoonfeeding but I got one more question for you... Are you just running one switch to activate both the compressor and locker at once? I didn't totally realize until just now, I was jotting this diagram down for future reference and just wanted to confirm I'm reading it right

 

[sleepydad]

Sorry for the spoonfeeding but I got one more question for you... Are you just running one switch to activate both the compressor and locker at once? I didn't totally realize until just now, I was jotting this diagram down for future reference and just wanted to confirm I'm reading it right

Yes, my setup is the same as having 2x lights on one switch.

I have the little baby compressor(CKSA12) that is dedicated for just lockers. If you want to run the compressor separate from the locker you need 2 switching sources.

Amazon.com: ARB CKSA12 Air Compressor Compact On-Board 12 Volts DC, Designed Exclusively for ARB Air Lockers Locking Differentials : Automotive

 

[Devbot]

I don't see why not. You'd have to put the ground wire for the rear diff lock indicator for the instrument cluster on a relay that completes the circuit to ground when the rear locker switch is depressed. Here's a 2000 EWD in case you don't have one: Dropbox - Link Disabled - Simplify your life Rear diff locker wiring schematic is 182.

I don't mean to be a pain but could you drop the link again? It went dead and I'm actually in the process of trying this again, now that I know my ass from a hole in the ground
I didn't realize the dash light needed to be a negative trigger back when I first started so I made my air locker circuit positive trigger. Now I'm trying to find a way to wire in the light without having to re-do everything :doh: :doh:

 

[Bad Luck]

I don't mean to be a pain but could you drop the link again? It went dead and I'm actually in the process of trying this again, now that I know my ass from a hole in the ground
I didn't realize the dash light needed to be a negative trigger back when I first started so I made my air locker circuit positive trigger. Now I'm trying to find a way to wire in the light without having to re-do everything :doh: :doh:

I would if I could, but it’s not working for me either.

 

[Devbot]

I would if I could, but it’s not working for me either.

My bad i thought you were the host