Are 35s really the answer for off-road driving?

I think there would have been far less modifications with a 285/75-17 or 255/85/17 on TRD Pro or Trail wheels due to the offset.

I think a 33 is the best overall size for a multi purpose 4Runner that is a daily driver too, as in my case.

Thanks to the OP on the thorough feedback on running 35’s. Puts a lot into perspective for many of us about the expense, modifications required plus wear and tear on everything to consider.


I would agree with your assessment on fitting larger tires. In my experience it's the additional width that's the killer. It was significantly more work to fit 305/70's vs 285/75's in the same tire and the same height. (Ridge Grapplers, about .8 inch wider) If there was a 285/80 I think it would be relatively easy to fit and I'd probably give it a go. I also think keeping wheel offset as close to 0 as possible helps (Assuming a 9 inch wheel). If I was to replace my wheels I'd try a 8.5" -10 offset for a variety of reasons.

The 255/85 MT Baja Boss looks interesting, however I don' think I'd want to go down to a 8" rim. And it's so narrow it'd suck in deep snow situations.
 
The 255/85 MT Baja Boss looks interesting, however I don' think I'd want to go down to a 8" rim. And it's so narrow it'd suck in deep snow situations.
I just got this tire about a month ago. I'll let you know how it does in the snow this season.
 
I’m a track rat myself too but my damage tolerance on my car is waaayyyyyyyyyyy lower than my 4Runner. At least outside tires and brakes :)

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Sweet ride..the v8 m3 definitely makes some glorious music.
Back in the day I had a manual e36 M3 (99). It was a white coupe with the camel color napa interior..plus a few dinan bits for good measure. I miss that car.
 
Penultimate means second from last.

Sorry, it's a pet peeve.

I appreciate your feelings, being host to many similar peeves myself. I assure you I know what penultimate means. But I am puzzled:

Penultimately diff locks — then super-modified. Super-modified being the ultimate.

Was it confusing that I didn’t put super-modified behind a bullet point? Perhaps I should have. I apologize for creating this awkward situation.
 
I appreciate your feelings, being host to many similar peeves myself. I assure you I know what penultimate means. But I am puzzled:

Penultimately diff locks — then super-modified. Super-modified being the ultimate.

Was it confusing that I didn’t put super-modified behind a bullet point? Perhaps I should have. I apologize for creating this awkward situation.
Now that I reread your post, yes, that was it exactly. I didn't continue the full train of thought from the bullet points to the paragraph below them.
 
Now that I reread your post, yes, that was it exactly. I didn't continue the full train of thought from the bullet points to the paragraph below them.

Agreed hard to go forward when your stuck in a sea of verbal diarrhea :rofl:

perhaps the penultimate diff lock will prove adequate to remove the verbose poster from his somewhat eloquent verbal shitpile?

Who can say :rofl:
 
This is going to be my Saturday project :)


I know some people hate the idea of a body lift but it can prevent you from cutting into the fender and has some other benefits.

Sure you can trim the front fenders but can you really trim the back fenders and make it look good with the door in the way?

Sliders and armor can be raised higher if sliders are welded to the frame or if bumpers can be modified.

Center of gravity isn't impacted as much as lifting the entire vehicle the same amount to regain lost uptravel from larger tires.

More room for clocking a t-case or accessing that upper rear shock nut.
 
I think there would have been far less modifications with a 285/75-17 or 255/85/17 on TRD Pro or Trail wheels due to the offset.

On trail wheels with or without a 1" spacer (I had a custom set of 1" spacers and used a CNC mill to machine clearance in the aluminum for the rear studs). I only needed the BMC and trim the mud flap, plus the front minor fender trim and liner relocate. The BMC was pretty minor, but necessary. No need for bump stops. They didn't rub anywhere after those adjustments.
 
Great info in this thread...I've been planning the move to 35's for the past two months.

Curious how much of the fender cutting is due to the width of the tire/offset, rather than the height?

I've been planning a 17x8.5 -10 Offset, with a 35x11.5 Toyo (weighs about 63lbs, Load Range C, and it's skinny!)

I'm hoping that combination helps me avoid too much work on the outer fender, and limits all the cutting/hammering to inside the fender well.
 
I think there would have been far less modifications with a 285/75-17 or 255/85/17 on TRD Pro or Trail wheels due to the offset.

I think a 33 is the best overall size for a multi purpose 4Runner that is a daily driver too, as in my case.

Thanks to the OP on the thorough feedback on running 35’s. Puts a lot into perspective for many of us about the expense, modifications required plus wear and tear on everything to consider.

BMC, pinch weld, UCA (for caster), trim front bumper liner for 33's.

+

extended bump stops for 285/75/17 that measured 34.1.

and this was for wheels w/ 17x9 w/ -38 offset and 3.5 backspacing.. so TRD wheels will be easier to clear.

that was literally it to fit 285/75/17s, which is the easiest 34 to fit, unless you get into the pizza cutters.

Km3 and yoko's are relatively lightweight for 285/75/17 and still capable performers off road and have mild road manners.

cons: bad MPG and possibly need a re-gear (depending on your tolerance or annoyance level of tranny performance).
 
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I know some people hate the idea of a body lift but it can prevent you from cutting into the fender and has some other benefits.

Sure you can trim the front fenders but can you really trim the back fenders and make it look good with the door in the way?

Sliders and armor can be raised higher if sliders are welded to the frame or if bumpers can be modified.

Center of gravity isn't impacted as much as lifting the entire vehicle the same amount to regain lost uptravel from larger tires.

More room for clocking a t-case or accessing that upper rear shock nut.

i have thought about this, and might do a 1/2 inch body lift in the future. i just have to talk myself into living with the bumper gap (since they are already cut).
 
Great info in this thread...I've been planning the move to 35's for the past two months.

Curious how much of the fender cutting is due to the width of the tire/offset, rather than the height?

I've been planning a 17x8.5 -10 Offset, with a 35x11.5 Toyo (weighs about 63lbs, Load Range C, and it's skinny!)

I'm hoping that combination helps me avoid too much work on the outer fender, and limits all the cutting/hammering to inside the fender well.

If i was closer to -10 offset, I don't think I'd have to do much trimming. I'm right around a -28 offset though, and I think I'm about to start trimming the outside fenders.
 
If i was closer to -10 offset, I don't think I'd have to do much trimming. I'm right around a -28 offset though, and I think I'm about to start trimming the outside fenders.

Good to know. I'll report back on my experience once I get everything installed.
 
BMC, pinch weld, UCA (for caster), trim front bumper liner for 33's.

+

extended bump stops for 285/75/17 that measured 34.1.

and this was for wheels w/ 17x9 w/ -38 offset and 3.5 backspacing.. so TRD wheels will be easier to clear.

that was literally it to fit 285/75/17s, which is the easiest 34 to fit, unless you get into the pizza cutters.

Km3 and yoko's are relatively lightweight for 285/75/17 and still capable performers off road and have mild road manners.

cons: bad MPG and possibly need a re-gear (depending on your tolerance or annoyance level of tranny performance).
Actually, I did not have to do any mods whatsoever with the 1.5/1” Cornfed spacers and 285/70-17’s. I think this is because of the 7” Pro wheel and offset, port trimming on the front fenders, and possibly, but not sure, that the caster may have been set differently on the Pros. I did have it aligned afterwards, but didn’t check caster specs before and after. I like my front mudflats too. No clearance problems 4 wheeling over rugged terrain. No rock gardens yet. I would go 285/75 if I didn’t have to regear.
A Man's GOT to Know His Limitations - Clint Eastwood - YouTube
 
On trail wheels with or without a 1" spacer (I had a custom set of 1" spacers and used a CNC mill to machine clearance in the aluminum for the rear studs). I only needed the BMC and trim the mud flap, plus the front minor fender trim and liner relocate. The BMC was pretty minor, but necessary. No need for bump stops. They didn't rub anywhere after those adjustments.
Was this with a 285/75-17?
 

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