Are there correct size universal joints for the driveshaft?

[gtgt_bangbang]

Running out of things to do, and was going to replace a couple sticky but not loose u-joints in my 95 V6 automatic truck rear drive shaft (2 ordinary u joint with the sliding yoke, but NON Cardan joint type.)

When I finally started looking closely at the joints I had picked up awhile ago to get ready (#285 moog precision brand, listed for this vehicle), noted that these are a few millimeters wider ,across the cross, than the originals (which were nested just INside the yokes.)

In other words, while they would install and lock in, the end caps would hang out of the yokes, and be subject to nicking, which could ruin the needle bearings pretty quick.

Has anyone run into this? Is there another part number that would fit exactly original without going to the stealership? It turns out it's pretty hard to find those dimension specs by searching online.

I would also prefer to find universal joints with the zerk in the center of the cross same as original, which protects them a little, while these Moog parts have the zerk at the end of one arm, hanging outside of the shaft out in the rocks.

Thanks in advance

Lastly, I hope they're not too tight in there, because even though it would be a breakeven to buy a Tiger tool Press compared to dropping the work at a driveline shop, it does look like the smaller of the commonly available Pitman arm pullers is a Candidate to do double duty as a u-joint press, with a little bit of grinding possibly required, depending on which exact brand you get.

Thanks anyway, but I'm aware of the hammer & vise method, and I am not going to beat on my driveshaft, and the sockets & vice method is doubtful here also due to the sloped sides of the yoke.

 

[Hyde802]

I think this is the right part number, but its not shown in the diagram.

1995 Toyota 4Runner Parts - Hendrick Toyota Scion Concord

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

Thanks but

I know Toyota can hook me up, but first of all it's just a u-joint; Quality aftermarket is totally fine for under $20 per. Toyotas run at least $50 and up for the same part in a Red and white box. Rock auto can get you home for 3 1/2 bucks, and max out at 30.

I also know the Moog 285 is the correct if not most often quoted part number, and it will fit, at least regarding the critical dimensions such as bearing cap diameter and distance between the circlips, but it will stick out just a little bit from the yoke. Probably nothing to worry about but call me anal about my shafts. Wow I don't like the sound of that.

What I'm hoping for is someone who has recently been there done that, and either has a different part number for the correct (70 mm) outside dimension, or or failing that, I'd make peace with a u-joint having the zerk in the center of the cross (protected by the shaft & yoke)

 

[nevada]

Thanks but

I know Toyota can hook me up, but first of all it's just a u-joint; Quality aftermarket is totally fine for under $20 per. Toyotas run at least $50 and up for the same part in a Red and white box. Rock auto can get you home for 3 1/2 bucks, and max out at 30.

I also know the Moog 285 is the correct if not most often quoted part number, and it will fit, at least regarding the critical dimensions such as bearing cap diameter and distance between the circlips, but it will stick out just a little bit from the yoke. Probably nothing to worry about but call me anal about my shafts. Wow I don't like the sound of that.

What I'm hoping for is someone who has recently been there done that, and either has a different part number for the correct (70 mm) outside dimension, or or failing that, I'd make peace with a u-joint having the zerk in the center of the cross (protected by the shaft & yoke)

its up to you to decide, but how many miles do you have on that OE u joints?

I had over 250k before I changed mine.
I doubt you will get that kind of mileage out of an aftermarket part...

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

so Toyota makes their own u-joints using Secret unique materials? I guarantee this item is put in a red & white box by an OUTSIDE supplier, after meeting toyota design, spec, SPC, etc according to that all-important contract. At least thats the way it worked during my days w/ a Big 3 then a stint at a JV assembly plant.

It's not impossible the vendor is prohibited from making an exact design (in this case the zerk location comes to mind ) but the days of melting iron on one end of a factory, and pumping cars out of the other, with no trucks delivering outside parts, are long over , if they ever existed. Auto manufacturers dont have deals with Gates, Moog, and a 1000 others? Vertical integration is dead.

Some parts are unique and only Toyo will have stock. You're stuck or at least better off with the dealer. Some parts of such reliable quality, and hard to find elsewhere (many times I stock up certain nuts etc at a dealer just cause they are so good ... and available). There's a lot of parts that are actually better aftermarket, because the OE stops addressing problems at some middle point in the production cycle, while the secondary market has to differentiate themselves. But a whole lot of more or less consumable parts are fine from the aftermarket

 

[02SE]

so Toyota makes their own u-joints using Secret unique materials?

Even the cheapest aftermarket Parts can generally be made to the correct dimensions within an acceptable range of tolerance, so they will "fit". But aftermarket parts may or may not be made of the same quality of materials as the OEM part.

With OEM you know reasonably well what you are getting.

With aftermarket parts, you can get better than OEM parts for a price, or much worse parts. If the aftermarket parts are significantly cheaper, there is the likelihood that the materials used in making the part, are of inferior strength or quality compared to the OEM part.

Of course the only way to know how good a part truly is in comparison to OEM, is to buy a random aftermarket part, and test it against an OEM part.

Most people wont do that, and will just buy on price. Never even realizing that there might be significant differences in the service life of the parts.

 

[HanginInUtah]

Just for some info... I spent three years managing a Napa Auto Parts store. There are five options for you... Napa Proformer P387 (same as Moog); Greasable 285, non-Greasable 287, and premium greasable 387 all made by Spicer; and finally Altrom AP17 made by GMB, which is the OEM sourced part. Here in the SLC area in Utah, Napa is company owned and all of those options are available. But, all of them list the same measurements, so I don't know if the one you got would be the same as these or if yours is actually boxed wrong. Also, I can tell you that when I do mine, I'm going for the Spicer made, and possibly the non-grease model, which seems wrong except for the fact they aren't cross-bored for the grease passage and are stronger.
I don't work for Napa anymore, so I could care less what brand anyone likes. I can count on one hand how many u-joints ever came back, tho, so I don't feel the loyalty to OEM. And, actually, the Altrom (GMB) ones are less than the others. So, there's that.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

Hangin - thanks for your enlightened input. Where did you find dimensional info on these part numbers? I got sick of opening literature without finding the info I sought.

I think my original request is much to do about nothing. I already own a couple Moog 285 which are just a few milliliters wider across than the presumably Toyota parts there now. I sincerely doubt they are boxed wrong and it's not really enough to worry about on a relatively noncritical dimension. If anything gets that close to the driveshaft, likely there will be bigger problems to worry about. At worst the cap will get rock dinged and the third owner downstream from me will have a little more headache to remove it.

Not to make too much fuss, but that Altrom has to be one of the durn prettiest universal joints I've ever seen. I'd wear that for a necklace! Looks like they went to a lot of trouble to form that cross. Damn shame to hide it under the truck. I may have to roll the rig over just so people get to notice.

Agreed that the nongreasable / non drilled means stronger, although unlikely be breaking any with this stifled motor, and clean protected grease should last decades. I would guess there are more parts ruined with excessive greasing blowing out seals , than saved. I'll probably grease these the first time then replace the zerk with plug to lessen the chance it'll get broken off. These BeckArnly ball joints came plugged, with zerks included. Will reuse those

 

[HanginInUtah]

I'm able to access Napa's ProLink. I now work for a city, and we have an account, so I can get access to it. Nice little tool if I want their parts, as it shows all the options and where in the area the parts are sitting on the shelf. I'm not sure if napa's website shows the specs or not.