ArkMaster Build Thread

Are the flares still nice and rigid and holding their shape after taking that much meat off of them? I thought about doing the same thing you did to mount up my front flares and clearance them, but was worried they'd lose their shape.
 
smallfry said:
Nice.

The gas tank skid is kind of a pain to install.
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How so? I'll plan a little bit of extra time for install :thumb:

AZ_Trails said:
The UPS man left an identical package on my front doorstep today too!
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So you're as excited as mine is? Mine is rather, well, let's just say i've lost about a gallon or two of fuel capacity....

UnderFire said:
Are the flares still nice and rigid and holding their shape after taking that much meat off of them? I thought about doing the same thing you did to mount up my front flares and clearance them, but was worried they'd lose their shape.
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I haven't noticed any movement yet, but they seem to be holding up. Once i've done the other 3 fenders and tested it a little more, i'll be able to give a better review.
 
I made a new friend today. 19,200 of them to be exact. Say hello to Lumen:
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Each one of these bad boys produces a whopping 9,600 lumens. They measure exactly 7" in diameter, and fit PERFECTLY in my bumper. There is absolutely no room to wiggle around. I have 1/4 of a centimeter from the top of the light to the plate top of my bumper.
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They also threw in a free pair of rock lights for me to test out :girl:
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They measure about 3.3" long. If I like them, I'll order a whole set.
 
awpsome said:
how much were the lights? any output pictures?
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Introductory price was 300 for the pair, w/ free rock lights covers, wiring, and harness. They aren't installed yet. I just test fit them in the bumper to make sure they would fit. I'll post output pictures when I install them.
 
Those little rock lights they include with their orders are a decent little light. I've got a couple of them mounted as rock light also. I would run some more clear silicon around the edges of the domes, they aren't affixed with much to hold them together.
 
NateMob said:
Those little rock lights they include with their orders are a decent little light. I've got a couple of them mounted as rock light also. I would run some more clear silicon around the edges of the domes, they aren't affixed with much to hold them together.
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Good to know. I know [MENTION=88576]smkd13[/MENTION] out here in Utah has them as well, he's actually fabbing me up some brackets that he used to disperse the light. If the light output is good like you say, i'll order a whole set.

Thanks for the input. I'll definitely look into the silicon on the edges. So are you back from deployment yet?
 
TheArkMaster said:
Good to know. I know [MENTION=88576]smkd13[/MENTION] out here in Utah has them as well, he's actually fabbing me up some brackets that he used to disperse the light. If the light output is good like you say, i'll order a whole set.

Thanks for the input. I'll definitely look into the silicon on the edges. So are you back from deployment yet?
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Yes sir, got back last Saturday. Been working on some updates on the rig. Hope to get out and up to CO and UT over the next two weeks.
 
UnderFire said:
Alright, I'll start out by saying why the JL may not be the right sub for use in a 4Runner.

JL's current line-up, especially their lower lines like the W1 and W0 are geared towards people who want to give up a small amount of space while still getting the most out of the equipment that goes into it, that is why their recommended enclosures are almost always small sealed boxes. That is perfect for the boxes that are molded into the side panels of trunks, or factory integrated set-ups, but in an SUV, you get a lot more room to play with.

Both the Sundown E10 and SSA DCON 10 are designed to get the most out of the 300W you give them, but to do that, they need a little more room to breathe, both can be ran sealed still, but with these two, ported will just about always give you more output and a flatter response (i.e. plays all frequencys from 30-~80 close to the same volume) To go ported though, you have to give up a bit more space.

JL's subs are around .65-.7 Ft^3 Sealed

The DCON and E10 take around 1.25 Ft^3 + the space the port takes up.

If you're wondering where the difference in price comes from between the 3 relatively similar woofers, here's what I think, this isn't concrete fact, just an educated guess.

The JL W1 is around 180$, The DCON is 150$ and the Sundown right around 100$.

The JL is Assembled in the US with Chinese made parts, this accounts for some of the difference but not all of it, part of the extra price you are paying is for the name that's on it, JL has built a huge mainstream reputation, and advertises a lot more than most car audio companies, all of that costs money, and therefore you end up paying more for the product in the end.

The SSA is completely built in the US, for the price you're getting a cast basket that allows for more excursion (16mm) vs the stamped metal baskets on the Sundown and JL W1 (12mm or so) they are able to keep the cost down due to low profit margins to compete with the Chinese built subwoofers (as stated by the owner of the company who is a regular on the audio forums) and being effiecient in general.

The Sundown is made in China, but this isn't necessarily a bad thing, all of their products go through QC and testing here in the US before they are shipped out, and even the most minor defect gets it pulled from stock, google "Sundown Yard Sale" and you'll see what I mean. Sundown has built a great reputation with the audio community as a whole, some people will run their subs, amps and speakers exclusively, and I've never seen a major complaint, or any for that matter go unresolved.

In the end, it comes down to how much space you are willing to give up, if it isn't a whole lot, the W1 is a great choice, and so is the Image Dynamics ID10v3 now that I think about it, but if you're willing to go a bit bigger, there are subs that are better suited to it.
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The SSA is assembled in the US with coils from china and the material for the motors are from china as well(the ferrite). They like to put the big "Made in the USA" stickers on the motor but I this misleading. The "z" and "x" series from sundown are assembled in the US as are all the lines of Tantric Sounds from LD through the soon to be available UHD's. I've had issues with Nick from SSA/FI about some of the smoke he tries to blow up peoples rear ends about their products. At this point I would really like to try some DSS Ethos out as well, Quinton seems to be a decent guy however I don't like that the soft parts are stock incriminator audio softies. Are you running a stock Alt with that bc2k? How is it holding voltage for you? I considered a singer built 270-350a+ but I figured I should plan my rig around wheeling first and then work the audio in where it will fit. Sorry to hijack your build log! Just wanted to give a little extra info about woofers and ask a couple questions. There are a ton of good audio companies out there and to stick with mainstream brands is really selling yourself short. Go to an audio forum like Car Audio Classifieds - Buy, Sell and Trade Car Audio Equipment and see how few people actually use mainstream brands there. FI, Tantric Sounds, Sundown, and Incriminator Audio are the big dogs these days, your $ goes much further with all but the latter in my opinion than it will with any mainstream brands. Sound quality of the first three is surprising to say the least. Tantric woofers are all based on SQ designs and have also been winning world championships in SPL builds as well. I would take image dynamics over JL every day of the week as well. All of the above are in a class above the JL woofers and in most cases will cost less for the same power class. I should divuldge that I am a member of Team Tantric Sounds, but I would run Sundown, ID, Tantric, DSS, and even Incriminator Audio (I believe they are overpriced for their performance) before any mainstream brands. Just my 2¢
 
e46inperrycounty said:
The SSA is assembled in the US with coils from china and the material for the motors are from china as well(the ferrite). They like to put the big "Made in the USA" stickers on the motor but I this misleading. The "z" and "x" series from sundown are assembled in the US as are all the lines of Tantric Sounds from LD through the soon to be available UHD's. I've had issues with Nick from SSA/FI about some of the smoke he tries to blow up peoples rear ends about their products. At this point I would really like to try some DSS Ethos out as well, Quinton seems to be a decent guy however I don't like that the soft parts are stock incriminator audio softies. Are you running a stock Alt with that bc2k? How is it holding voltage for you? I considered a singer built 270-350a+ but I figured I should plan my rig around wheeling first and then work the audio in where it will fit. Sorry to hijack your build log! Just wanted to give a little extra info about woofers and ask a couple questions. There are a ton of good audio companies out there and to stick with mainstream brands is really selling yourself short. Go to an audio forum like Car Audio Classifieds - Buy, Sell and Trade Car Audio Equipment and see how few people actually use mainstream brands there. FI, Tantric Sounds, Sundown, and Incriminator Audio are the big dogs these days, your $ goes much further with all but the latter in my opinion than it will with any mainstream brands. Sound quality of the first three is surprising to say the least. Tantric woofers are all based on SQ designs and have also been winning world championships in SPL builds as well. I would take image dynamics over JL every day of the week as well. All of the above are in a class above the JL woofers and in most cases will cost less for the same power class. I should divuldge that I am a member of Team Tantric Sounds, but I would run Sundown, ID, Tantric, DSS, and even Incriminator Audio (I believe they are overpriced for their performance) before any mainstream brands. Just my 2¢
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Yea, a lot of not so great things have surfaced about SSA since I posted that, I still thought the motors were made by Fi here though. I still have no problems with running them, my ZCON 18 took a beating over rated every day for over a year, so I don't mind standing behind their product. I have nothing against American Bass, Sundown, Fi, Tantric, IA etc.

At one point I had a Singer built 275A CS144 ready to go on, but I decided I didn't need it (regret that, I'll end up picking up another one) The way I see it now is, even if I'm not pushing the electrical to it's limits, the alternator will only help with all the lights, compressors, and winching too.

For the last 2 years I've had a rewound stock alt from a 22RE on my truck, stock sized 3RZ pulley, Bench tested around 140A @ 1200RPM, I've been having some voltage issues as of late, due to crappy front battery terminals (Picking up some of Toolmaker's new SAE Terminals tonight) and I need to re-run my rear battery's dedicated ground, that should put me back up there, I ran an Incriminator 20.1 (2nd gen) for a year or so with voltage never dropping under 14.0 even hitting sub-30hz full-tilt. I moved onto an AB 150.1 at 3kw, dropping around 13.8, and then ran an Ampere 3800.1 when they first came out set to around 3500W, dropped to around 13.6.

I've slowed down a bit and my XFL 12's and BC2K keep me satisfied, sounds great no matter what I listen too, just gotta fix the electrical back up.

Sorry for the Semi-Hijack Arkmaster.
 
The motors are assembled here but the ferrite for all the motors comes from china as we have no ferrite producing mines left in the US. The only way to get fully US woofers is to go neo. A lot of the motors are charged here in the states but it is misleading for companies to say 100% US made when some parts have to come from overseas. I'm thinking about putting one of my crossfire c5 1700d's in the truck but the 85a Alt worries me a bit. Don't want to put all 4 of my agm's in the back to keep voltage in check...lol
 
147560 miles New NAPA driver ITRE and replaced my A/C belt, Power Steering belt, and my alternator belt.

Also finished painting the new gas tank skid and should have it on the truck wednesday. Then I just have to fix my brake lines, get a fuse box, wire some LEDs, and go wheeling.
 
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KidVermicious said:
Somebody needs to put these together and make a sweet DD/rock crawler. I think it should be you. $5500 and a little bit a work for a fully built 350-swapped clean 1st gen is a bargain.

4.3 TBI/700r4 with adapter to toyota transfer case adapter
Best Offer For Sale: 1987 and 1988 Toyota 4Runner
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You have no idea how tempting that is.... I would be half tempted just to replace the window, use too much caulking for the windshield, and dove nose the thing :frisky:
 
TheArkMaster said:
You have no idea how tempting that is.... I would be half tempted just to replace the window, use too much caulking for the windshield, and dove nose the thing :frisky:
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I know exactly how tempting it is. If I didn't already have one project sucking the life out of my wallet, those would be in my driveway. The guy with the 350 was looking to trade it for a 3RZ a little bit ago. I came this -><- close to calling him.

SOMEBODY needs to pull the trigger on those.
 
KidVermicious said:
I know exactly how tempting it is. If I didn't already have one project sucking the life out of my wallet, those would be in my driveway. The guy with the 350 was looking to trade it for a 3RZ a little bit ago. I came this -><- close to calling him.

SOMEBODY needs to pull the trigger on those.
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Did you see the 1st gen pop up on ksl for $1000 about 3 weeks ago? SAS, 4 link front a rear, caged, dove nose, and the ex wife sold it for pennies!
 
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