BrianSD_42
New member
Glad to hear everything worked out safe. Must of been pretty scary with the family in vehicle though. Good reminder for all of us to check our cables.
AssBurns 2000 Limited Build Thread
- Thread starter AssBurns
- Start date
theesotericone
New member
Fixed that for you. Get one tomorrow. lol
Glad it all worked out but having one can be the difference between having a bad ass rig and having a used to be bad ass burnt shell.
AssBurns
New member
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] haha thanks! I’ll pick a couple up tomorrow. I think my brother can get me some from his work at a discount so might as well just do it now while I’m thinking about it.
fourfive
Senior Member
That's a scary situation but I'm impressed by your ability to process everything that was going on under that amount of stress and think to disconnect the cable. Were you unbolting the cable while it was on fire or did you just pull it off by force?
AssBurns
New member
I have marine style battery terminal clamps that use wing nuts to hold the cables, so it was pretty easy to do even with major adrenaline. Burnt my finger tips doing it but I didn’t even notice until a few minutes later when the adrenaline went away.
fourfive
Senior Member
Good idea.
AssBurns
New member
What started out as a supposedly very simple project turned into my 4runner sitting on jack stands in the driveway for 5 days. The project was simply just to change out the worn out uniballs on my rear shocks. I ordered a set of four Teflon lined COM8 uniballs from rod end supply during the offroad expo for a great price of only $5.89 each. So I get parts Friday and decided to pull the shocks off early Saturday to try to get the project done before the rest of the family is up for the day. Then the simplicity of the project started to take a slight turn. The original uniballs would not press out easy so I ended up having to drill out the edge of each race so that I could punch the ball out then cut the race out with a sawsall. It kinda sucked but still wasn’t that big of a deal. Then I was ready to drop the new ones into the shocks. And when I mean drop in, that’s what they did. No pressing or tight tolerances like it is supposed to. So I measure them to make sure I got the right size. Yup they are standard COM8 uniballs like I ordered. Then I realized that when I went to put the C clip in, the race on the new uniballs are slightly wider than what the shocks are made for. So I measured the original ones and sure enough, they are not standard COM8 uniballs. I have no idea what they are besides whatever Bilstein uses for 1/2” uniballs. So I immediately call my brother to order me the Bilstein parts through his work, so I could have them by Monday afternoon. Great! He sends me a text that he spoke with his sales rep and will have them by Monday afternoon. Monday afternoon comes and the parts didn’t make it on the shipment for that day. So Tuesday comes and my buddy that works with my brother brings me part after he gets off work. (Notice I said ‘part’ not parts?) He hands me a bag with just one uniball and said that was all there was in the shipment he received. So I call my brother again, and ask him where the other 3 parts were. Sure enough, he thought I only needed 1 uniball. Not his fault entirely, I didn’t specifically say I needed 4, but when I have two shocks taken apart on my work bench and 4 old uniballs sitting there, I would have assumed he would have known. Now it’s a Wednesday and I pick up the last 3 parts and had them installed and shocks back on the 4runner in less than an hour. It’s crazy how something that should have been a couple hours turns into a 5 day ordeal. Now my rear end doesn’t make clicking sounds when driving around. It’s awesome.
Just a couple pics I took throughout the process. Used my Hi-Lift to jack it up since it was already out and took a picture at full droop because why not.
Measured the free height of my rear 8 wrap coils since they are extremely loose at full droop. Enough that I can pull them by hand. I am hoping to find a taller set of coils that provides 3” max lift while unloaded. Obviously can’t go with 7 wraps at this point and I don’t want 9 wraps because I don’t want a higher ride height.
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Just a couple pics I took throughout the process. Used my Hi-Lift to jack it up since it was already out and took a picture at full droop because why not.
Measured the free height of my rear 8 wrap coils since they are extremely loose at full droop. Enough that I can pull them by hand. I am hoping to find a taller set of coils that provides 3” max lift while unloaded. Obviously can’t go with 7 wraps at this point and I don’t want 9 wraps because I don’t want a higher ride height.
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4-Ripcord
New member
What an ordeal!
Fyi i went through the same search with my rear springs.
Ride height was my lowest priority behind spring rate and free height. Ive had all the springs on this list at some point and preferred the superflex. Considering the weight you have (2nd tank, no tire carrier) id say you would be at about 3.25" of lift with them.
Fyi i went through the same search with my rear springs.
Ride height was my lowest priority behind spring rate and free height. Ive had all the springs on this list at some point and preferred the superflex. Considering the weight you have (2nd tank, no tire carrier) id say you would be at about 3.25" of lift with them.
Most are progressive spring rates of course, so the values listed are the rates at normal load conditions according to toytec and OME.
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AssBurns
New member
Thanks for the info 4-Ripcord! It sounds like the Superflex coils might be just tall enough to keep my coil seated properly at full droop. Spring rate should be pretty good too for what I need. I’d prefer something a little taller free height and softer but that might be only doable custom spring that I don’t really want to deal with.
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Flemster
Member
My Superflex coils sat high for the first few months and was perfect for my weight, but after they settled it dropped to below three inches of lift and started to cause issues for me and all my weight. So if my theory is not flawed you may sit high for the first few months then settle to a perfect ride height. I also never had issues with the coils falling out/being loose at full droop.
theesotericone
New member
That's not something you here on this site everyday. lol
[MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION]
I just measured up my Toytec 9602RC's. That's there standard 3" lift coil. They are just under 18.5 as well. So you can probably cross them off the list. If you want to try them anyway your more than welcome to if you ever make it up to Bishop. There sitting on the shelf since I tossed the 861's on.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Since the springs are inboard of the rear shocks, your springs cannot get to full droop unless the rear end is in the air. When articulating, the springs will be slightly more compressed than full axle droop. I think you'll want to check with articulation, not full droop to verify your current springs are ok.
-Charlie
AssBurns
New member
Based on the info that you guys provided and the info on ToyTecs website. The Superflex coils might be the best option. I wonder how tall a set of used Superflex coils will sit at their free height? If they are under 19", there really isn't any point in making the swap. My ideal setup would be only 2.5" of lift since my front is already pretty low and once I go to coilovers, I'd like to drop everything down another inch or so. With a full tank and no load, I am sitting around 23.75" Hub to Fender in the rear. When fully loaded with camping gear (Maybe up to 400lbs) I sit about an inch lower. So in reality the superflex coils will only help with preload at full droop. Not sure how beneficial it would be to spend $200. My coils don't fall out on their own yet, but they are really loose. I bet if I keep doing what I'm doing they will sag enough to fall out on their own pretty soon. I'll keep an eye out for a used set.
From Toytec's website
3.75"+ rear lift with stock rear weight.
3.25" rear lift with 200lbs over stock rear weight.
3" rear lift with 400lbs over stock rear weight.
From Toytec's website
3.75"+ rear lift with stock rear weight.
3.25" rear lift with 200lbs over stock rear weight.
3" rear lift with 400lbs over stock rear weight.
jkeith.w
Official Vendor
can you strap them somehow? like a clamp at both ends? (thinking out loud here...)
Black798
New member
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You sir need a bigger jack, good gawd thats some nice droop
AssBurns
New member
You are definitely right, there is no way I'll be losing a coil at full flex, but my rear axle ends up at full droop more than it really should. The last thing I want is my coil unseating as my axle is fully off the ground then landing with the coil unseated. Sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Granted, my coils don't just fall out at this point but give it a few months and they will sag even further to the point they will fall out. Just trying to figure the situation out ahead of time before this happens.
Definitely an option. I think for now I might just get some much needed limit straps for the rear until I can either figure out the coil option or come up with some come up with some major dough to finally do my rear 4-link and coilover setup.
ray2:I thought the same thing when I was almost maxed out on my 48" jack. If I go to the 60" jack, I won't be able to use my current mounting setup.
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