ATF Exchange (using the cooling line)

[GMZ]

Just finished this up, attached my drain hose to the top of the trans cooler straight down through the skid plate. Very easy to do this way, took me maybe an hour. Used 13 qts of Amsoil ATL in total. Shifts are much smoother and more consistent now.

Thanks for taking the time to do this OP. I had filed the Tacoma DIY away for when it was time to do this but our configurations are a bit different than theirs.

 

[GMZ]

Did you notice any difference after doing it? Did it shift smoother or anything?

Posted this in the "What did you do today" thread.....hth

I had 75,556 when I did the change out, I did a drain and fill when I got it at 42,XXX. I drive in a lot of stop and go base traffic and light offroad/mtn passes almost every week on some adventure or another, fluid was dark brown.

My 3-2 downshift under medium throttle was basically a huge thump, and my 4 to D upshift was inconsistent sometimes it would shift normally other times it would just stay in 4 so I would have to manually shift to 4 then to D to complete the shift. I have not been able to replicate those issues now within a couple hundred miles, I would experience one or both of these phenomena daily. Other shift points, subjectively, feel smoother overall.

Based on my driving habits, I think I am going to do a drain and fill every other OCI which would be every 30k.

 

[chitown40]

Changing transmission fluid must have been the thing to do this past week. I did mine on Friday. 168,000 miles on the original fluid - 2006 V6 4x4.

Fluid came out black, but did not have any foul odor. No solids that I could see. I did the initial drain and fill of just shy of 3qts. I totally spaced and forgot to swap out the new crush washer on the drain plug thinking I'd be opening and closing the pain drain a few times - but I was wrong. I ended up pulling the cooler return line and did a few flush cycles. Ended up exchanging about 10 qts. in total. I could have done a few more quarts but I was running low on time and wanted to get to the level check procedure. I replaced a little more than I took out, but still was low when I did the first level plug check. I immediately turned off the truck and added another half a quart of fluid. Started up truck again and put it in temp check mode and then pulled the level check plug and drained about half of what I just put back in until the fluid started to slowly trickle. New crush washer on the plug and then buttoned everything up.

I didn't notice any poor shifting prior to the fluid change, and I decided to do the maintenance on the trans fluid based solely on the fact it's never been done. After the fluid exchange I noticed smooth shifting and leaks or issues.

I almost went for the Valvoline MaxLife, but after seeing I could get Toyota WS ATF for about $.30 per quart, I chose to go OEM. I paid $7.44 per quart from my local dealer with a preferred pricing level. The crush washers were about $1 apiece.

 

[Dpassmore]

Can you not just siphon the fluid in while dispersing the fluid until you've ran the 12qts through and then top off the fluid?

 

[Dpassmore]

Did mine at the trans cooler.
The return line would not suck fresh fluid in. I used a universal fuel pump. It couldn't keep up but worked. Ran it till a quart or two came out and waited on the pump to catch up. Ran 12qts through it and topped it off at the filler plug. Still a slow process but very easy.

 

[Marde]

Did mine at the trans cooler.
The return line would not suck fresh fluid in...

No surprise. I was also doubting that this trans would "suck in" trans fluid from a bucket (from the return side) when doing this type of fluid flush. This full-flush DIY method is not the OP method and it only uses the top hose & the top nipple on the radiator/trans cooler.

The idea was to suck-in the fluid at the HIGHEST point on the system; using a funnel with a hose attached to the top radiator/trans cooler nipple (fluid inlet port). This should also work ok, even if you have an additional external cooler.

.....

My plan is to disconnect the cooler line (the top-one) on the radiator and extend this hose with some raw tubing, and place this hose into an empty bucket, -the bucket will be tick-marked so I can see and measure the amount of fluid that comes out when I start the engine.

Connect some raw tubing onto the cooler nipple (the top-one) and add a very large funnel. Keep funnel filled with new fluid during engine-on. Start engine and old fluid comes out (goes into the bucket) while new fluid goes into the cooler via the funnel.

Turn off the engine when you see the trans fluid coming out changes color from old-dark to new-red color.

Compare "measured amounts" of how much came-out verses how much went in. Remove the overflow/level checking plug and check that some fluid comes out, to ensure it is properly filled.

Sadly, I never did this DIY full-flush method on our 4Runner. I will do it soon; in the next couple months. I have previously done this full-flush method on a different type of car with great results.

 

[Dpassmore]

I used a universal electric fuel pump and it did work pretty good and was simple. You could also use a cheap drill powered plumbers pump.

 

[NuclearN8]

does anyone know the pitch on the 14mm drain bolt?

I'd like to replace it with one of these if possible....
TOYOTA/LEXUS NISSAN/ INFINITI

I failed to measure last time I did this maintenance

 

[pjbrownva]

Can I skip the ATF Temp Check Mode, & read tranny temp on my Ultragauge blue instead?

Steps for ATF Temperature Check:

View attachment 155023

13. The fluid temperature must be between 36C (97F) and 46C (115F) to accurately check the fluid level.

So here's my question... Does activating the ATF Temperature mode do anything special, OTHER THAN CHANGING THE BEHAVIOR OF THE DASH LIGHTS TO LET YOU KNOW WHEN THE TRANSMISSION FLUID IS IN THE CORRECT TEMP RANGE?

Here's why I ask. I have an Ultragauge II Blue, and it reads out Transmission temp fairly accurately. So, I can already measure my temp, and wait until the fluid is between 97F and 115F to check the fluid level after a fluid replacement.

So, my only concern is if activating the "ATF Temperature Check Mode" does anything else in addition to using the dash gauge to let you know the transmission fluid temp. For example if the Temp Check Mode caused the fluid to circulate differently through the tranny, or allowed fluid to flush out the valves, then I would still need to activate this mode, but if all it does is let me know the tranny fluid temp, then my Ultragauge Blue will give me that information easily, and I can just warm up the truck in place and not deal with the jumper wire, the song-and-dance with the shifter lever, and the cryptic on, off, flashing behavior of the lights.

Anyone with knowledge on this would help me a lot. [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] , do you think you could shed some insight (or anyone else)... I know your a competent tech who's top notch on these issues.

-Phil

 

[JB.]

So here's my question... Does activating the ATF Temperature mode do anything special, OTHER THAN CHANGING THE BEHAVIOR OF THE DASH LIGHTS TO LET YOU KNOW WHEN THE TRANSMISSION FLUID IS IN THE CORRECT TEMP RANGE?

Here's why I ask. I have an Ultragauge II Blue, and it reads out Transmission temp fairly accurately. So, I can already measure my temp, and wait until the fluid is between 97F and 115F to check the fluid level after a fluid replacement.

No. In fact,

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...r-ways-check-ws-transmission-fluid-level.html

But if you're confident in your ultragauge, it will be even easier for you.

 

[fdbyrne]

As long as you work fast and you're confident that your temperature readings are correct then you should be fine. My understanding of the ATF Temperature Mode is that it activates or deactivates other things that keeps the transmission fluid in the correct range for a longer period of time.

I'm not a mechanic, however. I just ran across that tidbit in another thread.

 

[pjbrownva]

No. In fact,

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-g...r-ways-check-ws-transmission-fluid-level.html

But if you're confident in your ultragauge, it will be even easier for you.

In addition to the ultra gauge, I also have an IR thermometer, so I can take readings as indicated in your thread and cross check the IR with the ultra gauge.

Thank you for the link, and more importantly, thank you for the research you did in that link.

JB, you sir, are a gentleman and scholar. :thumb3:

 

[pjbrownva]

As long as you work fast and you're confident that your temperature readings are correct then you should be fine. My understanding of the ATF Temperature Mode is that it activates or deactivates other things that keeps the transmission fluid in the correct range for a longer period of time.

I'm not a mechanic, however. I just ran across that tidbit in another thread.

Check out the thread that @JB created and linked to.

No need for temp check mode: Eas(ier) ways to check WS transmission fluid level

It's excellent work, and I think it gives sound advice on an Easier alternative method for checking the level of the trans fluid. I'll cross check my Ultragauge reading against my IR thermometer reading, and if they are close, then I can just rely on my UG.

Anyway, JB's thread should answer all of the questions. Great work JB. Thanks!

 

[Ju1cE82]

Have a question regarding "high mileage" transmission fluid exchanges....

New to me 185K 05 V8, dealership was kinda skeezy and it is a little rough but hope it was a good buy. Anyway snatched the check plug out today and grabbed a couple drops just to see the condition...yup pretty dark.

I intend to do the transmission flush as described here, unless there is anything like the old chrysler "flush it and push" transmission problems. Also curious if there is any benefit to dropping the pan? Is the filter an actual paper element or screen and is the gasket one of the steel and rubber reusable or old school scrape and seal?

What is the best source for trans fluid? I will be doing light towing consistently (6x8 enclosed loaded around 800 most of them, sometimes 1600). Should I be running an amsoil or Toyota with good intervals good enough? Does anyone on here have access to BG products??

I am sure there will be more questions to come...thanks in advance :cheers:

 

[Morphyne]

Filter is steal mesh. I just changed mine with 165k on it and it still looked fine. The gasket is rubber. No scraping necessary. Mine came right off. Autozone has the filters for $22. I would recommend changing the filter just to get in there and clean out the pan and all the magnets. But no the filter does not need changed.

As far as fluid is concerned walmart sells valvoline maxlife for $17 a gallon. It is the only synthetic with WS rating aside from amsoil. And of course there is always OEM.

I used the Trans flush through the cooling line method, it was so easy. Pro tip. To get the cooling line off, after you remove the clamp, twist the rubber line to break the seal between the rubber and the metal line.

 

[Ju1cE82]

Really I can run MaxLife? Even in the 05 5 Speed?

@ $17 a gallon I'll buy a case and get good at it haha!


This is my first Toyota and need this thing to be as reliable as possible and willing to spend the money needed (wish I could have gotten lower mileage but I can fix everything else)

I have gotten so used to driving a TDI where $30 a gallon oil is the absolute MINIMUM.

Liking this Yota more and more!

:girl:

edit: I did just double check this as sometimes on the interweb people may get confused about a brand that meets this or that spec...nope according to Valvoline's white paper the $17.87 a gallon meets WS spec (I am assuming the AS in the above post is a typo or another atf spec I am unfamiliar...forgive the newb) http://content.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

 

[Morphyne]

Well shit. Owning an 05 gx470 and an 07 4runner has just put a wrinkle in my knickers. I used the temp check range of 115 to 130 recommend for the gx. Not the 97 to 115 recommended for the 4runner. Guess I will have to bite the bullet and do the temp check and see where I am at tomorrow morning.

 

[Morphyne]

Ok so a couple of things. 1. My odb done and torque app measured 98 degrees right after the light went off so now more using that stupid wire, that was weird! 2. When I opened my overflow and nothing came out. So I turned it off and added 1/2 a quart. When I started it up I hot the whole 1/2 quart back. So I guess I was good to go.

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Well shit. Owning an 05 gx470 and an 07 4runner has just put a wrinkle in my knickers. I used the temp check range of 115 to 130 recommend for the gx. Not the 97 to 115 recommended for the 4runner. Guess I will have to bite the bullet and do the temp check and see where I am at tomorrow morning.

Not sure where you got the 115~130°F range from, the FSM (and TSB for updated temperature ranges for both Lexus and Toyota) specify 97~115°F as the temperature tech range. It's the same transmission for the GX470 as the V8 4th Gen.
[MENTION=70631]pjbrownva[/MENTION]

As far as I can tell, "ATF Check Mode" is meant for "intelligent tester" (scantool); it doesn't really explain what it does exactly as far as I see in the FSM. But if you're just shorting the two pins on the OBDII connector to get the dash light to turn on, it's not needed.

Using an IR Thermometer on the fluid pan isn't super accurate, but since you have about 18°F to play with; you should be fine if you shoot for the middle of the min/max.

 

[crencom]

I have an 06 T4R w/ 47000 miles - v6. I added a Hayden external ATF cooler. Since the capacity of the atf system is increased with the external cooler, does that affect the temp range for checking the fluid level?