Ruiner
New member
you need to adjust this:
if/when you do make sure the car has the Ebrake on and the wheels are chocked so you dont run yourself over if you accidentally pop it into nuetral
Auto Shifter Rattles? Moves around a lot?
- Thread starter Ruiner
- Start date
you need to adjust this:
if/when you do make sure the car has the Ebrake on and the wheels are chocked so you dont run yourself over if you accidentally pop it into nuetral
fblainen11
New member
Thanks for the help. Just did this and the wife (who drives it daily) loves it. It was one of her biggest complaints. I also adjusted the position of the arm that attaches the shifter to transmission. It got rid of the front to back play in the shifter.
brian4t
New member
you need to adjust this:
if/when you do make sure the car has the Ebrake on and the wheels are chocked so you dont run yourself over if you accidentally pop it into nuetral
I hate to bring this back from the dead but adjust the linkage? How? Unscrew it while in park and sort of reset the position? I'm just not following. My shifter sways up and down over every bump in the road. Wondering if that's normal.
Ruiner
New member
yeah, its a bolt than you loosen and move the rod back and forth. but the up and down is most likely:
westerplatte21
New member
Quantity?
Ruiner,
Does a single order from that website contain the 4 necessary bushings or will I have to place 4 orders/quantity?
Thanks
Here is what you need to fix it. The rubber bushings in mine disintegrated, and on hard acceleration it would vibrate and rattle like crazy. It also felt crappy when shifting in ton gears.
there are two rods one on the top of the shifter plate, one on the bottom. So you will need 4 bushings.
part #33501G
you can order them here
SHIFT LEVER & RETAINER. Fits: TOYOTA | Village Toyota Parts
here is with the new bushings in
Ruiner,
Does a single order from that website contain the 4 necessary bushings or will I have to place 4 orders/quantity?
Thanks
Ruiner
New member
Whitedevil13
New member
I have a 1992 4runner AT and my floor shifter has the same issue of rattling around. It doesn't allow me to turn the off all the to remove it without jamming around that shift lever to get the key out. Will replacing the 4 shift bushings help that or do I have a linkage problem somewhere else?
JBurt
Senior Member
Here's my $.02. My bushings were so far gone the pin on the shift lever wouldn't interact with the parking switch, which consequently led to my key getting stuck in the ignition.
There are a total of 4 bushings. Two on the tube connected directly to the shift lever, and two below the floorpan after a linkage.
The top two are the ones most discussed here and those made a huge difference. Replacing them eliminated all of the side to side movement and gave the pin good engagement with the park switch.
It's blurry here but you get the idea:
I replaced the lower two for good measure since I was in there. I couldn't get the snap rings off the linkages, which I think would have made it a lot easier.
You can undo all 8 bolts that hold the metal shifter bracket down, then wedge something under it to have a few inches of clearance. It's a paint to get this bolt out but it's possible. The nut is 13mm and the bolt on the other side is 14mm.
Undo the nut, take out the bolt, shove the linkage around until you can put in the new bushings, then reassemble.
This lower set of bushings helped a little with the forward/backward movement in the shifter, and I'm sure it helps some, but it almost doesn't seem like it's worth it.
I wish they were bronze bushings instead of soft plastic. I hope they last awhile in the desert southwest heat.
There are a total of 4 bushings. Two on the tube connected directly to the shift lever, and two below the floorpan after a linkage.
The top two are the ones most discussed here and those made a huge difference. Replacing them eliminated all of the side to side movement and gave the pin good engagement with the park switch.
It's blurry here but you get the idea:
I replaced the lower two for good measure since I was in there. I couldn't get the snap rings off the linkages, which I think would have made it a lot easier.
You can undo all 8 bolts that hold the metal shifter bracket down, then wedge something under it to have a few inches of clearance. It's a paint to get this bolt out but it's possible. The nut is 13mm and the bolt on the other side is 14mm.
Undo the nut, take out the bolt, shove the linkage around until you can put in the new bushings, then reassemble.
This lower set of bushings helped a little with the forward/backward movement in the shifter, and I'm sure it helps some, but it almost doesn't seem like it's worth it.
I wish they were bronze bushings instead of soft plastic. I hope they last awhile in the desert southwest heat.
atalarico
Senior Member
Just doing the top two bushings today and I broke something but I'm not sure what. Here's a picture of the dangly white part in question.
What does that thing do and how can I fix it?
The two bushings I removed seemed fine too, so I'm guessing the lower ones might be my culprit for the wild forward and backward shifter motion.
What does that thing do and how can I fix it?
The two bushings I removed seemed fine too, so I'm guessing the lower ones might be my culprit for the wild forward and backward shifter motion.
Ruiner
New member
Just doing the top two bushings today and I broke something but I'm not sure what. Here's a picture of the dangly white part in question.
What does that thing do and how can I fix it?
The two bushings I removed seemed fine too, so I'm guessing the lower ones might be my culprit for the wild forward and backward shifter motion.
i think thats the thing that lets you get your car out of/into park with your key if the steering wheel is broken.
atalarico
Senior Member
Not sure what that is then. Or rather, how it's supposed to be connected. There's a small white plastic piece that may have come off its end too.
Last edited:
JBurt
Senior Member
It is the manual override for the shift interlock switch. When you put it back together it just kind of slips into place when you screw down the shifter surround. It took me a few tries but it goes back fairly easy.
JBurt
Senior Member
Glad you got it all back together. When I did mine it basically eliminated side to side play, but there is still some forward/backwards play. I didn't see any other wear parts in there so I assume mine is as good as it's going to get. Way better than it was, and my keys no longer get sick in the ignition. also my car no longer slips into 2nd gear.
atalarico
Senior Member
Yeah, I didn't do the lower two bushings even though I had 4 new ones to replace all of them with. It was hot out, and I compromised that I could see how just doing the two went and get back in there pretty easily if I felt I needed to do the lower two.
The shifter used to go back-and-forth and side-to-side quite a bit when I'd be going over bumps, etc., but it's tightened up a lot now. The actual action of shifting is a lot tighter now too, so that's cool. I can't imagine having it slip into 2nd on its own!
:cheers:!
4runner shifter loose problem fixed
just to add info guys, replaced mines in the base model 2.7L 4runner you only need two bushings 33501G part 90385-11003, I think the sr5 and limiter require 4 bushings but I´m not sure, now I´m happy with a firm shifter not shaking on the road:llama:
just to add info guys, replaced mines in the base model 2.7L 4runner you only need two bushings 33501G part 90385-11003, I think the sr5 and limiter require 4 bushings but I´m not sure, now I´m happy with a firm shifter not shaking on the road:llama:
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