Auto trans tips/trick?

3rdgenT4R

New member
First auto I've had in about 15 years and first with a 'yota.....any tips/tricks/insight to prolong life, avoid issues, ect.....I can find factory info but wanted personal insight or exp...

Change radiator every 90k, possible dedicated cooler
Flush schedule
Fluid specs.....standard or synthetic?
Always use "press button" on shifter?...even when you can "slap" it?
Additives?....
Obvioussly, I would say always try to be at a complete stop while shifting right?...other than using same drive direction.
Use O/D off when accelerating/merging with peddle down or leave in on and shift to 2nd?
Always use 2nd when trailering or turn O/D off?
Go easy on peddle unless needed I assume.
Filters that are better?
Ect, ect....
....i am SURE I am forgetting options and thoughts.....but I want to try and get the same type of service from my auto as I did my 5sp......got 355k out of original clutch......ya I know that probably won't happen with the auto, but just want to do what I can to maintain and preserve her....currently has 155k, bought her last week....and minimize my costs......FYI, locked/limited if that matters for my questions.

Thanks guys.....I searched a bit but really didn't find what I was looking for.
 
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One of the biggest things would probably be to take preventative measures against the dreaded "pink milkshake". External trans cooler, or new radiator or both.
 
Ya AZ, plans for new Rad in the works.....might add a dedicated cooler,.,..?..l. but not sold on the bypass, yet....still looking into temps and if it really needed ....or smart money?......thanks for insight
 
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Ya AZ, plans for new Rad in the works.....might add a dedicated cooler,.,..?..l. but not sold on the bypass, yet....still looking into temps and if it really needed ....or smart money?......thanks for insight

Smart money, cheap insurance against even the new Rad failing someday.

FWIW, on my 99, the trans cooler was one of the first things I installed when I bought it at 120k. 285's, lots of wheeling, pulling my first gen a couple of times, a boat back from North Bay, Ontario to North Carolina and living in the mountains for 3 years...after 60k the fluid still looked almost new. To this day I don't think its had a trans put in it and last I saw some kid had it and it looked like a high school mud whomper. Cooling is essential in making any auto trans last even if the A340 is probably the most reliable auto I have ever been around, and I'm good at breaking stuff.

That said...I need to quit being a slacker and get the one installed on my 97.

Flush schedule
I typically check the color of the fluid every other oil change. At 169k on my 4Runner now and the fluid still looks good. I got the 4Runner at 161k with no record of when the last trans service was, but the fluid looked fresh. Whenever I start to see it discolor a little is when I do a fluid/filter change. Higher mileage transmissions I follow this routine rather than a pressurized flush: drain, fill, drive for 10-15 minutes to circulate fluid, then repeat 2x more... takes more fluid but just a drain only gets about 1/3 or so of whats in the trans. The converter holds a ton so circulating it and introducing new fluid each time is a more time consuming but reliable way IMO to do a full fluid change in a higher mileage trans. IIRC last time I did it on an A340 I used about 16qts of Toyota T-IV

Fluid specs.....standard or synthetic?
I've always run whatever the manual calls for in the A340's which if you look at different production years of the trans, Toyota specifies different types. I used Toyota T-IV Never had a trans failure. Both Redline and Amsoil have a compatible DexIII as well

Always use "press button" on shifter?...even when you can "slap" it?
Press button is just a lockout from Park to all the other gears. You won't hurt anything not pressing it shifting between L-2-3 etc

Additives?....
Unless your trans is slipping or something I wouldnt introduce anything else into the system. Just personal preference

Obvioussly, I would say always try to be at a complete stop while shifting right?...other than using same drive direction.
You're thinking too much

Use O/D off when accelerating/merging with peddle down or leave in on and shift to 2nd?
See answer above. Set it in D and O/D on and roll out. A high rpm shift merging into traffic isn't going to hurt anything. Its the constant in and out of OD or in and "searching" for the right gear that heats up a trans.

Always use 2nd when trailering or turn O/D off?
Set it in D...Depending on the load and how the truck is reacting to the load you can leave OD on or off. If I'm pulling my dirtbike on a small 5x8 or something I will leave it in OD. It doesn't search for a gear any more than it normally does. When I am pulling a small vehicle or a few things like a couple of dirtbikes/atv's on a larger trailer then I will typically leave OD off and just drop my speed on the highway to 60-65. It doesn't search for a gear nearly as often at those speeds

Go easy on peddle unless needed I assume.
Drive it, enjoy having a 3rd gen and being totally awesome

Filters that are better?
Total crapshoot and opinon on this one. I just go get em from the stealership when I buy a case of T-IV at fluid change time
 
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I'm no master at any of this, but I can share the little bit of experience that I do have.

Dipstick - If you look at the tip, you'll see that it bends up. Stick it in with that bend going in the direction of the engine. As you push in and hit the first bend in the line, rotate it counterclockwise about 10 degrees. Beyond that, just keep pushing and twisting until it goes in. But, if you're having trouble, just know that you're not the only one. It really is that stubborn.

Fluid Type - I like the Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc which only comes in the Fully Synthetic variety.

Drain/Fill/Filter - If you read the manual, it will say a drain/fill is 2.7 qts. I think that's only if you pull the plug and put it back in, like an oil change...not the full pan drop. If you drop the pan, it's more like 8.5 qt. As far as filters go, just get whatever is cheapest from RockAuto/Amazon/Parts Store. I did mine a few months back and got the Hastings brand that included a cork gasket.
 
Do not use Type T-IV in a 3rd Gen's A340! Only Dexron III or one that meets those requirements.

Care to explain? Thats what was recommended to me years ago on my 99. Never had an adverse effect. I have yet to do any trans service on my 97 so correct my ways.

I had this saved in my archives of random truck stuff from years ago
http://www.yotatech.com/f2/what-oil-my-tramsission-dextron-ii-iii-other-105153/#post50405868

But a quick google since then shows a range of threads recommending all kinds of different fluid for the Tacoma and 4Runner A340's.
 
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The big one in my mind is to keep xmsn fluid below 200°. Endurance drops dramatically as temp goes above that.
 
Care to explain? Thats what was recommended to me years ago on my 99. Never had an adverse effect. I have yet to do any trans service on my 97 so correct my ways.

I had this saved in my archives of random truck stuff from years ago
what oil for my tramsission?? dextron II or III other'? - YotaTech Forums

But a quick google since then shows a range of threads recommending all kinds of different fluid for the Tacoma and 4Runner A340's.

The owner's manual recommends using Dexron fluid. That thread is the first where I have seen Type-IV recommended as well. Is there any TSB from Toyota that confirms this? I would not start trusting some random guy on a forum.
 
The owner's manual recommends using Dexron fluid. That thread is the first where I have seen Type-IV recommended as well. Is there any TSB from Toyota that confirms this? I would not start trusting some random guy on a forum.

Fluid specs.....standard or synthetic?
I've always run whatever the manual calls for in the A340's which if you look at different production years of the trans, Toyota specifies different types. I used Toyota T-IV Never had a trans failure. Both Redline and Amsoil have a compatible DexIII as well

It varies from year to year what is specified for an A340 in 3rd Gens and 1st Gen Tacomas. Hence my recommendation to run whatever it calls for in your owners manual. I simply asked a tech at a dealership and asked the parts counter and that was what was prescribed for my application in the past. This is fairly common to run into with Toyota. There are 79-95 gear driven cases that are in trucks that were originally filled with ATF rather than gear oil. And vice versa. And different year owners manuals reflect these changes/discrepencies.
 

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