Aux fuel tank

OK - the marine grade filler neck I needed just came in. Tonight I have to cut our the cross-member that holds the spare tire for clearance. I'm trying to figure out if I need to weld a new tubular cross-member in a different place or if I can rely on the huge piece of plate steel that will act as my skid to stabilize the frame. I'm leaning towards the plate since the tow package also acts as support.

I'll get pics of the process throughout this weekend.

I read your previous post about making the bumper first.

IDK if you already have, but I would mount this tank first, then build the bumper around the tank. That way you don't have to worry about cutting the tank or beating shit.

Just my .02.
 
I read your previous post about making the bumper first.

IDK if you already have, but I would mount this tank first, then build the bumper around the tank. That way you don't have to worry about cutting the tank or beating shit.

Just my .02.

For lack of time before a big wheeling trip the bumper/swingout is on hold until I return. Tank was way more important for range and not having to keep jerrycans in the rig.

The tank will have a full plate steel skid to protect it. 68 lbs worth. Throw in 20 gallons gas and I'll be moving to the OME 891's before I do the swing-out anyway.
 
I'm still working on this idea. want to see if there's any interest out there:
I'm working on modifying a New (not junkyard) f150 tank with a relocated fill kneck, and toyota electronics (yes pump and sending unit) for a 1st gen 4runner. the tank fits perfectly between the frame rails and is only 8" deep so sits level with my rear bumper. 19 gal capacity. This could either be run as the main tank, or as an aux tank. If i can get this figured out, is there interest from anyone in buying one?
working on pricing but i think it would be in the 250-300$ range +shipping
 
The f150 tank as been used and converted to Yota electornics.
If you using it as a six you can just run the ford stuff but the signal is reversed

As a main tank, just becareful it fines have baffles or a dump so you can run it out if your off camber

I have been in the truck and been on trips with the truck in the Yotateck post, here's the read I cause your wondering good points and mounting solutions for the cheapes that can weld

F-150 Fuel Tank into first gen 4runner - YotaTech Forums
 
Hello all. New here, but looking for some good info. I actually have a supposed OME auxiliary fuel tank in my truck that i got from a buddy. Have pics of it somewhere will post them when i find them. It is a gravity tank, have it mounted but not plumbed yet. Still trying to find the plug that replaces the stock fuel tank drain. Does anyone have any info on these tanks? Application is on an 88' 4runner sr5/Dlx hybrid.
 
OK - let me start by saying I'm not done. My half a$$ skid plate is being replaced by a custom one my fabricator buddy is making but this proof of concept works.

I stole a page out of the Long Ranger aux tank on the fill filler as well.

Materials:
Ford focus gas tank and fuel sending unit ($40)
Filler neck hose (junk yard $5)
Marine grade filler neck (Amazon $15)
Wire, switch, relay, crimps, heat-shrink ($20)
Scrap Plate steel ($40)
Misc fittings and straps ($10)

I started with putting the marine fill nozzle in the fender-well of the drivers rear tire. This is a water-proof fixture so venting is necessary else where.
 

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After that I wired up the fuel pump (green/red = positive), capped off all additional return lines on the aux tank with the exception of the one vent. Then mounted it to the skid.
 

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Now I had to make more room for the tank - so I cut out the thin cross-member that held the spare and bumpers. Sprayed a little rust killing primer as well.
 

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Then I created a manifold. For simplicity sake I let gravity help so I could vent and transfer into the same line. Here is the line and the manifold I made - I love Flex-Seal maybe too much... The arrow indicates the line I replaced.
 

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Then lastly I wired up a RR Diff Lock switch I found in the junk yard to run the pump. Yes I know the cheezy sticker is for oil and I will replace it, but since it looks just like me rear diff lock I wanted to be able to glance and tell what I was doing for the wheeling trip I'm leaving on shortly.
 

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Here is a pic with it mounted. It mounted to the bottom of the tow package and you can't see the crappy welded angle iron reaching the frame up front. This half-a$$ skid already drives me nuts so look for a fully protected and gusseted skit in the near future. On that doesn't require the thick bungies to be used as tank-straps.

The pump works great - but is a little slow. I connected my relay to a ignition switched fuse so I wouldn't forget about it. Besides the skid I'm going to use the low level light indicator from the Focus tank to kill the relay and probably add a gas gauge since all the sensors are still in the tank....down the road.

12.2 gallons transferred properly last night.
 

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I dont know about measurements on your rig but I just put a 33 gallon tank from a 86-89 full size v8 bronco under my 90 4Runner. It was like it was made to fit.
 
I dont know about measurements on your rig but I just put a 33 gallon tank from a 86-89 full size v8 bronco under my 90 4Runner. It was like it was made to fit.


I wonder if this would be even close to possible for 3rd gens?
 
Nice job!!!

[MENTION=104746]geohil[/MENTION], any update on aux tank? Are you happy with mod? Do you have part # for fill neck?

This is a mod I plan on doing, and would like to know if you would do anything different?

Thanks

Durwin
 
[MENTION=104746]geohil[/MENTION], any update on aux tank? Are you happy with mod? Do you have part # for fill neck?

This is a mod I plan on doing, and would like to know if you would do anything different?

Thanks

Durwin

Filler neck I used was just a marine grade one off Amazon. I love the mod. It is wonderful to head out wheeling and not have to worry about slinging jerry cans. I’m still running the cheesy skid in the pic but so far even that has worked great. Only thing I would have done differently is I wish I would have cut my hole for the filler neck a bit higher in the inner fender. Mine does not have enough down-angle to take the full pressure of a standard gas station pump. I’ve been having to fill mine by syphon. Even that does not detract from the utility of carrying 12 extra gallons of gas.

I’m working now on the fuel gauge for the aux.
 
Filler neck I used was just a marine grade one off Amazon. I love the mod. It is wonderful to head out wheeling and not have to worry about slinging jerry cans. I’m still running the cheesy skid in the pic but so far even that has worked great. Only thing I would have done differently is I wish I would have cut my hole for the filler neck a bit higher in the inner fender. Mine does not have enough down-angle to take the full pressure of a standard gas station pump. I’ve been having to fill mine by syphon. Even that does not detract from the utility of carrying 12 extra gallons of gas.

I’m working now on the fuel gauge for the aux.

Ok, thanks. I love the idea of utilizing the vacated spare tire location for extra fuel. And, no more jerry cans! Any negative ramifications removing your rear cross member? I've been considering do this as well, just to be able to tuck aux tank up as high as possible.

Excuse my ignorance, but can explain the manifold? Why is it needed? Also, what is Flexseal?

Thanks

Durwin
 
Ok, thanks. I love the idea of utilizing the vacated spare tire location for extra fuel. And, no more jerry cans! Any negative ramifications removing your rear cross member? I've been considering do this as well, just to be able to tuck aux tank up as high as possible.

Excuse my ignorance, but can explain the manifold? Why is it needed? Also, what is Flexseal?

Thanks

Durwin

No issues with the cross-member removed at all. The skid plate is more rigid then the cross-member anyway.

The manifold was just a fancy way of saying t-fittings stuck in the one section of flexible tubing (on the existing vent line). FlexSeal is just a spray-on rubber compound that I used to seal my crappy manifold. I went back later and remade it with brass barbed t-fittings. The one take-away I have is when you find the donor tank, try and get as much of the fuel, vent, filler, and return line as you can. Saves you money and allows you to make a few mistakes without running out of material.
 
I've thought about this for a while, and I just don't like any that have been given in thread...

sure mines more $$ but it's preference...

A) make my own tank
B) run x2 pumps, to 'pull' and 'send' to main tank
C) run a breather tied in to 'stock' breather
D) use after market guage to see fuel level
E) simple switch on dash (up = send to main, mid = off, down = pull from main)

it's 3 hose connections, both aux pumps will be the same GPH rating, and the air breather will equalize the tanks. otherwise fuel won't flow unless I want it, and I can see the independent fuel levels.

the outside fuel pumps won't be run all the time, so noise I would prefer to hear the external pumps running.

I could send via a 'T' into the stock filler neck, but will require a filter before pump
was thinking about pulling after stock fuel filter, but don't think the stock pump will like that, so probably find another way... still thinking that bit.
 
Get aux fueltank for either FJ cruiser of Prado series

Hi, I was wondering why you just don't buy a aux tank that is originally made for the FJ or Prado 90-150 series? 4Runners, FJ and Prado all use the same frame right? I bought a Long ranger 87 liter tank from Australia and fitted it behind the rear axle of my FJ 5 years ago. Works flawless. I could imagine you would have to adjust some of the brackets to mount it under a 4runner, but that's not a big job. Move the spare tire onto the rear bumper, done. Will cost you about 2000-3000 dollars for both the tank and the bumper with swing arm for the spare, depending on shipping cost etc , but to that would be worth it if you wanna do some serious overlanding.
 

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