Auxiliary Fuel Tank

Dirtco

New member
It seems like one of the biggest complaints among the 3rd Gen owners is the lack of fuel capacity and range. I’ve never been able to get more than 14.5 gallons in my tank, when you add in 36” tires, heavy beadlock wheels and a thirsty supercharger I honestly feel like I’m driving an electric car with a very limited range. I’m constantly thinking about whether I have enough fuel to run “this” trail, and if I need to carry an extra gas can.

Lately I’ve been running longer trails in more remote terrain, so the need for extra fuel has become a major concern. A standard gas can isn’t really cutting it anymore, and I hate the idea of multiple gas cans on the roof. The only real option (in my opinion) was to install an auxiliary fuel tank where the old spare tire used to live. This is not going to be a step-by-step write up, there are too many variables between other rigs. I just wanted to document how I extended my fuel range and share some of my idea’s.

I originally planned on building a custom auxiliary fuel tank from scratch, but my goal for this summer is to wheel more and wrench less. So I looked around and found a fuel tank at a decent price that should fit pretty well, it’s not perfect but your not going to find that without making your own.

This is the tank I found on Summit Racing, it’s a pretty basic 16 gallon steel tank but it does have baffles and being that it’s steel I can modify it as needed.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-ut-n-2

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For reference I trimmed the rear of my frame rails when I built my bumper, and I have a one inch body lift. It’s possible that there is a better fitting tank out there, and there might be a better fitting tank for people who have not trimmed their frame rails but this seemed to work pretty good for me. Using this tank in conjunction with the stock tank will give me a capacity of around 30 gallons!

Before I get too excited though, I first have to install it and that’s going to take some work. Step one was to remove the factory crossmember and reroute some of the wiring I had perviously installed. I wanted to get the tank as high as possible, so I cut a small section of the factory body bracing out. This allowed me to get the tank another inch or two higher.

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And here it is roughly mocked in place

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You have my interest. How do you plan to connect the two tanks and fill the aux tank?

The auxiliary fuel tank will have a separate fuel pump that transfers the fuel over to the main tank, it will also have it's own fuel filler and filter. That should keep the evap system happy, and isolate the main fuel tank from a possible leak.
 
Something that has always been in the back of my mind to do. As always I am excited to see how you make it awesome!
 
Fuel Pump

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Filter and shut off valve

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This is gonna be good. You wiring aux tank pump to a toggle in the cab?

Thanks! You are correct, the switch is going to be in the rear cargo area. Both tanks will have to be vented before transferring fuel (loosen the gas caps) so it makes sense to have the switch close to the caps and the on/off valve.
 
I needed a way of getting the the extra fuel into the stock gas tank, so I welded a fitting into the the stock filler neck.

DO NOT WELD ON THE FILLER NECK WHILE IT'S ATTACHED TO THE FUEL TANK!!!

I removed the rubber fuel filler tube, disconnected the breather tube, capped both of them off, used compressed air to clear out the fumes, and let it set for a day before I started this part of the project.

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Only after it was 100% vented of the gasoline fumes could I weld the bung in for the fuel fitting.

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I didn't want to worry about evap codes or leaking fuel, so I used JB Weld to seal the fitting to the filler neck.

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And it looks stock with the plastic cover back on

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I want to see where the filler goes. Have a Suzuki Sidekick tank that is waiting for a filler solution I like - and is affordable.
 
Fuel Pump

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Specs on the pump? YMM? How many PSI?

Nevermind....found it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4600hp

I know you're just using this as a transfer pump but 4.5-8 psi is pretty low for an EFI system like Toyota uses. Again, shouldn't matter since you're only transferring fuel, but why did you pick that particular pump if you don't mind me asking?
 
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DO NOT WELD ON THE FILLER NECK WHILE IT'S ATTACHED TO THE FUEL TANK!!!


This killed me haha! I appreciate that you are cautious enough to put this warning out but it scares the hell out of me that this even needed to be said.....
 
What's the plan for air return to the aux tank to offset the fuel emptying to the main tank? You should probably be able to tee off the tank vent, but then you have to have a sealed aux tank to keep evap happy (though, I suppose that is obvious).

-Charlie
 
DO NOT WELD ON THE FILLER NECK WHILE IT'S ATTACHED TO THE FUEL TANK!!!


This killed me haha! I appreciate that you are cautious enough to put this warning out but it scares the hell out of me that this even needed to be said.....

LMAO. That made my night man. I was wondering whether you'd hook to the filler neck or top of tank.

Yes, unfortunately people do dumber stuff on a daily basis. Everything "has" to have a warning label. :rolleyes:
 
Yes, unfortunately people do dumber stuff on a daily basis. Everything "has" to have a warning label. :rolleyes:




warning7-314x450.jpg
 
I want to see where the filler goes. Have a Suzuki Sidekick tank that is waiting for a filler solution I like - and is affordable.

I have a basic idea, but I need to get the tank in it's exact spot before I can mock it up.

Specs on the pump? YMM? How many PSI?

Nevermind....found it: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4600hp

I know you're just using this as a transfer pump but 4.5-8 psi is pretty low for an EFI system like Toyota uses. Again, shouldn't matter since you're only transferring fuel, but why did you pick that particular pump if you don't mind me asking?

Good question. The psi of the pump doesn't matter because it's just transferring the fuel to the main tank. This pump is "free flow" rated at 100 gallons per hour, that means I can pump all 16 gallons of auxiliary fuel in less than 10 minutes. I've used variations of this pump for years to transfer fuel in the shops I have worked for and I've never seen a failure, they are super reliable.

What's the plan for air return to the aux tank to offset the fuel emptying to the main tank? You should probably be able to tee off the tank vent, but then you have to have a sealed aux tank to keep evap happy (though, I suppose that is obvious).

That's where things get tricky. To transfer fuel between the two tanks (without removing both gas caps) there has to be a shared vent hose between the two tanks to equalize the pressure. But, when I'm driving around with the aux tank empty there will be an extra 16+ gallons of air volume in the fuel system, which will probably trigger evap codes. So in addition to the fuel on/off valve I also have to install a on/off valve for the vent hose, that will completely isolate the aux tank from the main tank while not transferring fuel. I plan on mounting both valves next to each other for quick and easy operation.
 
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Here is the start of the upper supports for the aux fuel tank, it will be sandwiched like a Ford tank with HD straps below. You can also see the bracket for the fuel pump, I mounted it behind the tire to keep it protected from dropping off ledges and angry rocks.

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