Average engine heat in high temps?

Boognish_Forever

Boognish_Forever

Member
So I was running my OBD car scanner app yesterday afternoon while driving in slow traffic with the ac on and it reached 220 at one point. Outside temp was 97. Once I got moving the temp went down to 190. The radiator cap was replaced last year with an OEM, new Denso radiator and fluid two years ago.

I’m thinking about replacing the clutch on the fan, as it doesn’t seem to get louder when hotter.

I don’t know where the jiggle valve is at on the thermostat and not sure that would be the issue being it cools down when moving.


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Definitely replace your fan clutch. To me, that sounds like your problem, especially if your operating temperature is normal while moving.

220 is pretty warm. The highest I usually see while stuck in stop-and-go traffic is ~190 with the AC on and hot ambient temperatures. If I'm towing on the highway with the AC on, I might get up to 205 or so...pretty sure that's from the ARB bullbar blocking airflow.
 
aontkos said:
Definitely replace your fan clutch. To me, that sounds like your problem, especially if your operating temperature is normal while moving.

220 is pretty warm. The highest I usually see while stuck in stop-and-go traffic is ~190 with the AC on and hot ambient temperatures. If I'm towing on the highway with the AC on, I might get up to 205 or so...pretty sure that's from the ARB bullbar blocking airflow.
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Even when it's 90 degrees, and I'm running 4lo for hours, my coolant gauge never moves above half. I plugged in my scanner just to check after running a hard section in 4Low, and I was at 190....

So if yours is doing this in normal driving, my money is on fan clutch as well.
 
220* sounds high to me, but I have been wondering the same recently!

Where I live we never break 90*, but breaking 80* has definitely been more common this summer than in previous years. Most of the summer our highs are mid-high 70s and I expect my motor to hit 190-195* per my Ultraguage. I only seen higher than 194* if I am using the AC, but 190* is my standard cruising temp. I am never worried about doing any damage but I often wonder if it could or should be running a few degrees colder given the mild climate.
 
My 3RZ runs, according to the Scangauge, at 184F all the time. Only in the summer, with the AC on, going up a 10% grade pinned in 3rd gear does it climb maybe 6 degrees.
 
shadow247 said:
Even when it's 90 degrees, and I'm running 4lo for hours, my coolant gauge never moves above half. I plugged in my scanner just to check after running a hard section in 4Low, and I was at 190....

So if yours is doing this in normal driving, my money is on fan clutch as well.
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The coolant gauge generally isn't a great guide for temperature. It doesn't really start to show that temps are high until you are getting very close to the danger zone, and probably won't show any noticeable difference between 190 and 220.
 
Skulking said:
The coolant gauge generally isn't a great guide for temperature. It doesn't really start to show that temps are high until you are getting very close to the danger zone, and probably won't show any noticeable difference between 190 and 220.
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Even at 220 on the scanner app, the temp gauge on the dash is still just under half. It’s started rising on me a couple years ago from a long wheeling trip in Moab. Pulled over immediately when it happen and let it cooled down.
 
Around 188 - 194 is normal. People that normally run around 198 - 204 probably have their jiggle valve at the 12 o'clock position rather than the 6 o'clock position.

Your problem sounds like the fan clutch like [MENTION=102336]aontkos[/MENTION] mentioned since you're only overheating while sitting stationary or rolling slow.

This video will help you swap it out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WzhlACxqeqQ" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>




t
 
Noticed the truck was idling at about 204* with AC on which is normal for 3rd gens but mine idles between 188* and 194* on my daily commute. None the less I replaced the oem fan clutch with aisin fct-013 about two weeks ago which brought the temps back in line to where they were.
 
mtbtim said:
Around 188 - 194 is normal. People that normally run around 198 - 204 probably have their jiggle valve at the 12 o'clock position rather than the 6 o'clock position.

Your problem sounds like the fan clutch like [MENTION=102336]aontkos[/MENTION] mentioned since you're only overheating while sitting stationary or rolling slow.

This video will help you swap it out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WzhlACxqeqQ" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>




t
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That’s good to know on the jiggle valve, being it does normally run below 200. I actually watched your video a few months back and was questioning on changing the clutch or check the jiggle valve position. Looks like I’m gonna try the clutch first. Thanks!
 
spartacus said:
Noticed the truck was idling at about 204* with AC on which is normal for 3rd gens but mine idles between 188* and 194* on my daily commute. None the less I replaced the oem fan clutch with aisin fct-013 about two weeks ago which brought the temps back in line to where they were.
Click to expand...



I tested to see how high the temp would go idling with the ac on in hot weather a couple weeks ago and it stayed around 205 as well. I was just gonna go with an oem clutch and buy some new bolts being mine a little rusty.
 
Boognish_Forever said:
So is this clutch a manufacturer Toyota sells as OEM?
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You won’t go wrong buying that. I bought the same one.

With a rebuilt engine and everything new I’m 188-190 no matter what I’m doing.
f6e663bec5be166fb6160b89abadf818.jpg


This is how much of the Rad I had to block to get my temp up to 193 in stop and go city driving.

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Boognish_Forever said:
So is this clutch a manufacturer Toyota sells as OEM?
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Yes it is. Aisin is the OE manufacturing company for our fan clutches. This isn’t an aftermarket company, this is what Toyota uses. I’m sure others can explain it better than I can, but this is definitely the one you want. Do not buy from the dealership unless you can get a hookup/cheaper price. But think of it like how our o2 sensors are made by Denso. You can buy the same ones from the dealership, and they’ll say Denso and Toyota on them. Same thing with spark plugs, oil filters, air filters and so on.
 
JoeT4R said:
Yes it is. Aisin is the OE manufacturing company for our fan clutches. This isn’t an aftermarket company, this is what Toyota uses. I’m sure others can explain it better than I can, but this is definitely the one you want. Do not buy from the dealership unless you can get a hookup/cheaper price. But think of it like how our o2 sensors are made by Denso. You can buy the same ones from the dealership, and they’ll say Denso and Toyota on them. Same thing with spark plugs, oil filters, air filters and so on.
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I hear ya. I found a clutch at a Toyota dealership free shipping for $123, so buying the aisin I would save $35. I do the same when it comes to denso and not buy at the dealer.


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Boognish_Forever said:
I tested to see how high the temp would go idling with the ac on in hot weather a couple weeks ago and it stayed around 205 as well. I was just gonna go with an oem clutch and buy some new bolts being mine a little rusty.
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Aisin should work fine. Although the oem lasted 400k+ miles. The fan is held on to the fan bracket with studs and 12mm bolts. Wire brush the studs and and a little antisieze and you should be good. The nuts are not so tight, think the torque value is 65 inch lbs or so. I just hand tightened mine.

Note: There is a member here who sprayed the spring coil that engages the fan clutch located at the front of the fan with wd40 and had the fan operating well again.

edit: the fan itself is attached to the clutch with 10mm nuts.
 
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spartacus said:
...
Note: There is a member here who sprayed the spring coil that engages the fan clutch located at the front of the fan with wd40 and had the fan operating well again.
...
Click to expand...

I've done this, mine looked a little rusty on edges, so a few sprays and days later, it worked well again. The rust just made it stay on too long, nothing butg roaring always, better when it silences down some. Its just a spring, doesn't really wear yet I guess the fluid could leak out.
 
I put in a new clutch today and the engine temps are hovering around 188 to 195 with the a/c on, 93 degrees outside and drove in slow traffic. I could also hear the cooling fan getting louder when taking off from a stop light, which tells me the clutch is doing its job.

Thanks everyone for the advise! I I’ve saved so much money through the years with the help of you guys on this forum.
 
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