B&M 70264 Transmission Cooler Install *PICS*

Hardway

New member
I know this topic has been covered quite a bit but here is my take on it to give others more ideas and to show once again how easy it is to do.

After spending time here on the forum and reading countless “strawberry milkshake” horror stories I decided to install an external trans cooler last weekend on my 2002 2WD SR5. I have just under 100K miles but with another hot Texas summer on its way I figured a small investment of $65 and a few hours of my time was much better than a $3K transmission rebuild if the trans cooler in the radiator were to fail. I installed a B&M Super Cooler # 70264 based on the many other posts covering this topic. The trans cooler comes with about 5ft of 5/16 transmission line, this will not be enough. Some other members who had mounted their cooler passenger side indicated a need to get 8ft of transmission line. If you mount the cooler on the driver side you need to get 10ft as it is a longer run for each hose. Below is a quick run down of how I approached and executed my install. Let me know what you think.

Remove the skid plate below the engine, remove the front grill, and horns on each side above the radiator. After some analyzing I realized utilizing the passenger side of the radiator was not a good idea for two reasons. 1. The A/C line was more obstructive on the passenger side and 2. where the A/C lines pass through the radiator core support access hole does not leave much room for anything else. I know others have utilized the passenger side location with no problem but I did not see the need to.

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Now that I had decided to use the driver side I needed to remove a small bracket on the A/C condenser that was not being used.

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Next I “eye-balled” where the brackets needed to bent to let the cooler sit a little closer to the AC condenser. I had considered using the push through straps that come with the kit. However since there was plenty of room for the brackets the choice was easy. Plus by using the brackets this would make the cooler easy to remove should the cooling system need to be serviced in the future.

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Once I had everything the way I liked it I used heater hose to wrap any sharp edges that the trans cooler or hoses would come in contact with.

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I cut the mounting brackets down and shot them with some semi-gloss black spray paint. I did the final install of the cooler and connected the transmission hoses using new screw type clamps for all connections. When I disconnected the hoses from the transmission hard lines I expected a tablespoon of fluid to escape as others had reported. Even with my 4Runner parked on a slight incline, nose up, I still lost almost a QUART of fluid! I had a pan ready so I did not make a mess on my driveway but just be warned and ready if you do this on yours.

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I blew some air through the original trans cooler to get all of the residual transmission fluid out of the trans cooler inside the radiator. I used a piece of the original transmission hose to cap off the original trans cooler connections.

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Finally I started it up to let the system start pressurizing. My wife helped me by running it through the gears a few times. Once I confirmed I had no leaks I reinstalled the horns and grill. As you can see the trans cooler gets a direct shot of air while driving and even with my hand in front of it I can feeling the cooling fan drawing air towards it.

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I drove it around and replaced the fluid I lost. It has now been a week with no issues what so ever. My skid plate has been reinstalled and I sleep better knowing the old girl won’t be mixing any milk shakes.
 
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clean install, thanks for the hose lengths, seems i have to get more now, i only bought 8ft, i was planning on placing it on the passenger side, but i can see where i may run into problems, thanks for the effort for the pics.
 
Hardway,

It looks quite good. I take it you used the brackets to get it as close as possible to the condenser without touching it.

Having the same one, I mounted my 70264 vertically, right up against the condenser, and as close to the divider as possible in order to get the maximum amount of airflow from the fan. I'd check your temps on a hot day using a Scangauge or another OBII port device. The 70264 starts working once the temps reach 180 degrees.

Also check the condition of your fan clutch for maximum cooling.
 
Thanks Nash. Another forum member PM'd with the same comment. I am going to take another look at it this weekend. Since I have plenty of room and trans hose I don't forsee a big issue with rotating it so the ports are facing towards the driver side.
 
I actually have a 70264 sitting in my garage waiting to go on, so I recently ran across that. Good luck and thanks for the writeup.
 
I'm about to do this myself, but I'm curious where/how exactly you bolted those brackets on...I didn't see any open holes in the frame so I didn't know if I needed to drill more or do something else...
 
So, I am about to got put this thing on today, here in a couple hours. This is going to sound real dumb, but I am not braining so well right now..still drinking coffee, but how do we tell which line is pushing fluid to, and which line is receiving fluid from the transmission cooler?
 
I know the purpose of this and he milkshake problem than can occur but what about the fact that the radiator actually helps warm the transmission in cold temps? Anybody in areas that have really cold weather running this mood and does being so cool affect how the transmission shifts? They always seem to shift better after they warm up.
 
So, I am about to got put this thing on today, here in a couple hours. This is going to sound real dumb, but I am not braining so well right now..still drinking coffee, but how do we tell which line is pushing fluid to, and which line is receiving fluid from the transmission cooler?

underneath-full.gif
 
I know the purpose of this and he milkshake problem than can occur but what about the fact that the radiator actually helps warm the transmission in cold temps? Anybody in areas that have really cold weather running this mood and does being so cool affect how the transmission shifts? They always seem to shift better after they warm up.

Coolers with LPD technology bypass the cooler (So the fluid goes from transmission through the bypass, back to the transmission) if the fluid isn't thin enough (thin meaning, not hot enough -- Thus, the concern about a Cooler cooling already cold transmission fluid is not right).

Per Tru-Cool's website, "LPD (Low pressure drop) highly efficient transmission fluid cooling technology that combines improved protection against lube system failure with the required levels of optimal heat transfer. Thicker oil that is below the ideal operating temperature bypasses the cooler through the upper two plates. When the temperature rises, it becomes thin enough to pass through the entire cooler."

Hell, at least this was my understanding when me and [MENTION=94063]slapdappy[/MENTION] bypassed both of our radiators with Tru-Cool (LPD) coolers. My tranny hasn't blown up. (yet).

transmissioncoolers.us: Tru-cool HD coolers

Edit: I just realized my post has absolutely nothing to do with addressing the Radiator helping the Transmission fluid get hotter. Oh well. I have no idea on that. I thought you were concerned about cooling already-cool tranny fluid.
 
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I know the purpose of this and he milkshake problem than can occur but what about the fact that the radiator actually helps warm the transmission in cold temps? Anybody in areas that have really cold weather running this mood and does being so cool affect how the transmission shifts? They always seem to shift better after they warm up.
I'm not as mechanic but I play one on tv.
get some pretty cold days here in colorado. my trans shifts fine, no ill effects.
LPD means low pressure drop. The trans cooler has small and large passages. when cold the trans fluid is more viscous (thicker) so it bypasses the small passages. This stop it from flowing through the entire cooler. as the fluid heats it becomes less viscous (thinner, if you will) and begins to flow through the smaller openings which allows it to flow through more of the trans cooler. once it reaches whatever temp the experts have designated as hot enough to benefit from cooling, the fluid flows through the entire cooler.
trans fluid is synthetic. it is designed to flow at very low temps because cars get used when it is very cold. the fluid heats up due to the friction from the transmission doing its thing.
My cooler has 20,000 btu rating vs 14,000 for BM 70264. Ive read that one needs to increase btu rating by 1 or 2 steps when BYPASSING the stock trans cooler vs as a supplementary cooler.
 
This is from the day I installed mine almost 2 years ago now. I have since adjusted it over a bit more to the left and cleaned up the install but this is how mine is basically mounted.
 

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Thank you for this image. The visual is very helpful.

With the Return Line that is disconnected, do we need to replace that line with the 8' tranny hose that is a recommended purchase for this install? Is there a coupler we can use instead to extend the existing return line?

Also, when I disconnect the return line, will a bunch of fluid gush out from the radiator?
 

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