B&M 70268 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Install on a 3rd Gen

You guys probably only don't notice a difference because you aren't pushing your tranny at all. Having the inlet at the top allows air to be trapped inside, which does lower the efficiency of the cooler. If hayden suggest that configuration, then they probably just didn't think it all the way through.

There is logic to your theory. I like!
 
You guys probably only don't notice a difference because you aren't pushing your tranny at all. Having the inlet at the top allows air to be trapped inside, which does lower the efficiency of the cooler. If hayden suggest that configuration, then they probably just didn't think it all the way through.

meh.
 
I'm putting this same cooler on and im pretty inexperienced so let me ask... im going to run a hose from the return line to the cooler..
then run a hose from the line i disconnected to the other fitting on the cooler, correct?
seems a lil too easy.....
 
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I'm putting this same cooler on and im pretty inexperienced so let me ask... im going to run a hose from the return line to the cooler..
then run a hose from the line i disconnected to the other fitting on the cooler, correct?
seems a lil too easy.....

Think of it as a loop or a circle. At one end is the transmission and the other end is the cooler. Two lines (send and return) go between the two. Just hook them up and you're good. I'd recommend following the tutorials.
 
Great write-up, although this damn forum is getting expensive!

I just ordered my B&M through advance auto. Got the online coupon code for $20.00 off bringing it to $45.99.
To avoid the shipping charge, I ordered it at my local store over the phone. When they receive it, they will add it to inventory and then I can go online and purchase it with the coupon code. Then, just pick it up at the store.
 
I have the Pink Stuff.........

So i noticed the other day that my coolant is milky. I picked up the B and M cooler today and plan on installing this evening. Does anyone know if i can get away with connecting the old trans cooler lines on the radiator together with hose. Even though i know the radiator is bad? I know this is a bandaid but im thinking of doing this for the short term untill i can change the radiator. Thanks
 
Does anyone know if i can get away with connecting the old trans cooler lines on the radiator together with hose. Even though i know the radiator is bad? I know this is a bandaid but im thinking of doing this for the short term untill i can change the radiator. Thanks
hmm dirty rigging hose is a bad idea....espeacly when it comes to cooling.
Best bet is to run new 3/8 in. transmission oil cooler hose.
5ft will run 10.00 at Autozone and you will also need four 3/8 worm clamps.
 
Does anyone know if i can get away with connecting the old trans cooler lines on the radiator together with hose. Even though i know the radiator is bad? I know this is a bandaid but im thinking of doing this for the short term untill i can change the radiator. Thanks

Do you mean bypassing the transmission cooler in the rad, without adding an external cooler? Then NO, the transmission will have no means of heat rejection, and failure will be sudden.

Do you mean running a hose between the in/out of the factory tranny cooler? This is preferred, if the rad does blow through into the tranny cooler, you wont loose coolant thru the open lines. Just be sure you have an external cooler installed already!
 
Great write-up, although this damn forum is getting expensive!

I just ordered my B&M through advance auto. Got the online coupon code for $20.00 off bringing it to $45.99.
To avoid the shipping charge, I ordered it at my local store over the phone. When they receive it, they will add it to inventory and then I can go online and purchase it with the coupon code. Then, just pick it up at the store.

I did the exact same thing except they told me to bring the online shopping cart total into the store when i picked it up and theyd ring it up from there. So I went into pick it up the guy hands me the cooler and he says "you're good to go" I tried to pay and insisted but he kept swearing i paid for it online so I didnt question it any further..
 
I know this write-up has been done before (many, many times), but I haven't seen any other writeups that go into significant detail where the cooler is mounted via the zip tie method. Also, I took a lot of photos which might help someone out.

After about a month of digging through threads here and on YT regarding the pros and cons of adding an aftermarket transmission cooler to my 1997 T4R, I decided that it was the right choice for me and my vehicle’s usage. With 162,000 miles on the odometer, I would get nervous on every road trip that I’d be left stranded by a failed stock transmission cooler/radiator and the “Pink Milkshake”.

Here’s another thread here on T4R.org that has a bunch of pictures of different mounting options that people have used and some miscellaneous information on this procedure.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63553-writeup-tranny-cooler-install.html

After looking at all the options, including Tru-Cool, B&M, and the TRD transmission coolers, I decided that for my needs the B&M 70268 SuperCooler would work just fine.

This cooler is rated at @13,000 BTU (vs. the thicker 70264 @ 14,400 BTU) and I liked the idea of having a thinner cooler, while not giving up much in the way of cooling capability. The B&M 70268 measures 11”x 7-1/2”x 3/4”, so you can fit it just about anywhere behind the bumper/grille on a 4Runner.

For more information on the cooler, check this link to B&M’s website:

Automatic Transmission SuperCooler rated at 13,000 BTU 11"x7-1/2"x3/4"

I purchased my cooler in June of this year on Amazon.com for $52.24 + $7.08 S&H, for a total of $59.32. B&M sells them directly for about $70, and I’m not sure if they charge for shipping.

Besides what is included with the B&M SuperCooler, I had to purchase the following (from Autozone) at a cost of about $25:

1. Two 5/8” – ¾” Steel Hose Clamps (The kit includes 4)
2. 4 feet of 3/8” Inner Diameter Transmssion Hose (The kit includes 4 feet of 5/16” ID hose)
3. 4 feet of 3/4” Heater Hose
4. 2 quarts of Dexron III Automatic Transmission Fluid
5. A pack of Zip Ties (6” & 11”)

I started by removing my grille and skid-plate. I left the bumper on for the installation. The grille is easily removed by pressing the little tabs that retain it to its mounting points downward with a flathead screwdriver. You can see the tabs by looking at the front end of the holes/locations where the grille mounts to the body. I know some guys have had a hard time with the grille removal, so here's a few shots of the tabs you're looking for:

Looking at the grille from the front, the bottom right:

P7261214.jpg~original


The top, center:

P7261215.jpg~original


And the bottom center:

P7261217.jpg~original


The hardest part of the job was getting the old rubber transmission hoses off of the steel lines coming from the transmission. After years of heat cycling, they were really stuck on there, not to mention it’s a really tight fit in there to get the hose clamps off. What worked for me was to grab the hose with pliers where it fit over the steel lines and twist back and forth until the rubber hose broke free from the steel line. Even then, I had to pull pretty hard on the hoses to get them off the steel lines. When the first one came loose, my hand shot back and hit the bottom of the radiator tank, skinning a good section off the back of my hand.

P7211113.jpg~original


I’d wear some Mechanix gloves (The Original® Glove : Mechanix Wear) or something similar for this part of the job. I had to buy some the next day to finish the job since my hand was shredded and I didn’t want grease/dirt/transmission fluid getting in the wound.

I lost about 1/3 quart of transmission fluid out of the transmission lines and stock cooler after I had all the rubber hoses pulled. Next I connected a 4 foot section of transmission hose to both the send and return lines from the transmission. In this pic, the send line is on the left, the return line is on the right. (There is a great write up on YT that has a photo of which line is which here >>>> (TRD Transmission Cooler - 3rd Gen 4Runner - YotaTech Forums)

P7211110.jpg~original


The route I chose for the hoses was up along the passenger side of the radiator, and through the hole in the radiator support where the A/C lines pass through, and then to the cooler itself.

Looking up from under the truck at the passenger side of the radiator and the new transmission hoses routed up to the hole for the A/C lines…

P7211108.jpg~original


Looking up to where the lines pass though the radiator support, through the hole between the frame and the inner fender on the passenger side…

P7211107.jpg~original


I had originally planned to use the 3/4” heater hose as a sheath like Speedy did here in his install >>> ((Project SportRunner - Transmission Cooler).

This didn’t work out so well for me because once I sheathed the transmission hoses with the heater hose, they were too thick to pass through the hole for the A/C lines (Speedy actually cut a new hole in the radiator support for his installation). What I did instead was take a section of heater hose about 8” long and cut it lengthwise, then notched it every two inches to allow it to bend easily. I took this cut section of heater hose and used it to line the hole for the A/C lines, eliminating any concern about the sharp edges of the hole causing abrasion and holes in the transmission hoses. When cut precisely, the heater hose fits very tightly in this hole and is actually held in place by the A/C lines and transmission hoses.

P7211101.jpg~original


P7211102.jpg~original

Pics are messed up... About to do this myself, I think I'll go with the 70268 as well - temps range from -40 to over 100+F where I live...

I need coolant, right? Or just ATF?

If and when I buy coolant, this is the right stuff, it's the "red" genuine coolant, right? http://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Genuin..._1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1338863056&sr=1-1
 
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Great write up and information gents...Quick quesiton though.
I have an ARB bumper with winch. I see that you all are just installing it with the grill out of the way, but I can barely reach my grill as it is. I don't really want to deal with the hassle of dropping the bumper for such a simple job. And without currently looking at my rig....is there another way/location to approach the install besides behind the grill?
 
I've got an ARB and a winch as well on my '01, one of the model years which happen to have the largest, most porky (read: hardest to remove w/an ARB on) grille.

I can stlll get my grille off with the ARB on there. It takes a little wiggle, push, and pull, but once you get it off, you'll have plenty of room to do the trans cooler install.
 
Thanks for the quick reply! I'm planning on installing the Hayden 1678 (basically the TRD without the brackets) cooler in the next week or so...I've got a 1500 mile trip next month, and then another journey moving back to AZ in the fall. So I don't want any surprises. Might do the Koyo radiator beforehand as well. my truck only has 120k but its already 15yrs old!
 

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