B&M 70268 SuperCooler Transmission Cooler Install on a 3rd Gen

[Bad Luck]

This has all been debated ad nauseam. The thought with not bypassing is that the transmission will warm up faster due to it still routing through the radiator cooler. In my experience while flushing my cooling system is the coolant at the bottom of the radiator stayed pretty cool well after my transmission had already warmed up. If you replace your radiator every 100k then pink milkshake is astronomically rare occasion.

 

[mesooohoppy]

Ikay. Thank you for the heads up/reminder. I'll have to read this thread in its entirety.

 

[mesooohoppy]

so i looked up tim's video on this on youtube and B&Ms instructions for hose routing the lines baffle me (if the out/inlet are side ways).

id like to mount the in/outlet sidewways to keep resistance down to a minimum. in tim's video someone corrects him and says that B&M's instructions state return line needs to be on the top fitting. doesn't this seem backwards? im in line of thinking with the OP that the top is the inlet into the cooler itself and gravity will help push the ATF to the bottom of the cooler and back into the trans.

 

[phattyduck]

im in line of thinking with the OP that the top is the inlet into the cooler itself and gravity will help push the ATF to the bottom of the cooler and back into the trans.

There is no need for gravity to help the cooler lines, there is a hydraulic pump doing that job. The outlet should be at the top so that any air bubbles can escape, so the cooler can be filled with the maximum amount of trans fluid, instead of wasted air space.

-Charlie

 

[mesooohoppy]

2. 4 feet of 3/8” Inner Diameter Transmssion Hose (The kit includes 4 feet of 5/16” ID hose)

Can you explain why you used different sized hoses? Are the hard lines different sized?

 

[alumarine]

Can you explain why you used different sized hoses? Are the hard lines different sized?

I'm guessing he didn't.
I think he's making a note that his kit came with 5/16" but he needed 3/8".
I used 3/8" for mine.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I'm guessing he didn't.

I think he's making a note that his kit came with 5/16" but he needed 3/8".

I used 3/8" for mine.

Does that mean that his cooler has 5/16” nipples or dies it come with both and you thread in what is required?

My TrueCool has molded nipples.


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[metallitera]

Does that mean that his cooler has 5/16” nipples or dies it come with both and you thread in what is required?

My TrueCool has molded nipples.


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My cooler's nipples were 3/8" but I had an issue with one leaking ever so slightly, so I adapted in a short section of 5/16" line to connect to the cooler;\'s barb and no more leak. The 5/16 hose slid on firmly but easily. Not like the 3/8" hose did on the two metal lines by the engine....holy crap those were tight!

 

[mesooohoppy]

I'm guessing he didn't.
I think he's making a note that his kit came with 5/16" but he needed 3/8".
I used 3/8" for mine.

Does that mean that his cooler has 5/16” nipples or dies it come with both and you thread in what is required?

My TrueCool has molded nipples.


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According to this link:
B&M 70268 B&M Hi-Tek SuperCooler Medium - 13,000 BTU Rating

The cooler has a 3/8 inlet and outlet. Although I dont understand why it comes with 5/16" line? When buying stuff like this, is it standard for companies to include line that is a size down to help with sealing? I see the kit comes with adapter barbs as well, but it doesn't explain what they are.

5/16"= 0.3125"
3/8"= 0.375"

My cooler's nipples were 3/8" but I had an issue with one leaking ever so slightly, so I adapted in a short section of 5/16" line to connect to the cooler;\'s barb and no more leak. The 5/16 hose slid on firmly but easily. Not like the 3/8" hose did on the two metal lines by the engine....holy crap those were tight!

Which cooler do you have? If you have 3/8" barbs and its leaking when the 3/8" line is on, they're either not 3/8" barbs or the unit is defective.

 

[Capnemo]

Same cooler I bought nd near identical placement and install, I did install the magna filter? in the return line, it was cheap and added 5 minutes to the install.

 

[metallitera]

Which cooler do you have? If you have 3/8" barbs and its leaking when the 3/8" line is on, they're either not 3/8" barbs or the unit is defective.

B&M 70264.

I think it more likely that the hose clamp was creased or there was damage or a defect in the end of the hose. Either way, it's dry now.

 

[mesooohoppy]

i updated my build thread with some 70268 tips and tricks, but id like to add to this thread specifically as well. just copying and pasting from my build thread:

-i can get goodyear 250 psi hose at cost so that is what i went with. i bought 5 feet of 3/8" ID hose, but you need 6' to do the feed and the return line. i ended up using the good year stuff for the feed line, and what came in the kit as the return line. the good year hose is MUCH nicer than whatever is in the kit. i will keep an eye on the return line, but as soon as it gives me any issue, its coming out and being replaced with the better good year stuff.

-the soft hoses that go to the hardline on top of the front subframe are an absolute PITA to get off. heat cycling through out the years make this stuff damn near impossible to get off; you arent going to pull it off. it being in such a cramped place doesnt help either when you are trying to cut the hose off. i ended up finding a razor blade with a hook on it and that eventually cut off the soft line. im not sure what this type of razor blade is used for, but if you google 'razor blade with hook', you will see what i am talking about.

-the zipties that come in the kit are super aggressive. you only want to be running this through your radiator one time. we were originally going to feed it through the front to use as a 'guide' so i could feed it back through in the same way the guide linked above does. the problem is once you feed it through the front, we noticed it was chewing up the rad fins pretty good. so we just installed the zip ties this way.

-i recommend you mount the cooler FIRST and get your lines all setup. it was abundantly clear that once i had everything in front of me and the grill off, the cooler needed to go in first and then route the lines. we chose this way of install because it allowed us to ensure the cooler would fit with the lines on, and we got all of the hose routing done once the cooler was installed. this basically made it so once it was time to unplug the hard lines and pop the new ones in, the hardlines would only be exposed for a minute or two, minimizing the potential ATF spillage and keeping the mess down to a minimum.

-the good year hose and the hose in the kit i used would not go on for the hardlines. it would get right past the nipple and stop. i had to use a heat gun to persuade it to go on all the way. if you use this hose, you will need a heat gun to get the hose real hot and expand. once its hot, wrap it in a rag and get it pushed onto the hardline ASAP. the hose cools down fairly quickly and even when its warm, its not hot enough to get it on the hard line all the way.

-i didnt replace my radiator because it looked fine although i have no idea how old it is. at 240k, i want zero chance of pink milkshake, so i just capped the radiator trans cooler lines all together. im surprised people install these and still loop through the radiator; which IMO is the main reason to do this swap and eliminate the possibility of pink milkshake all together.

 

[MagusWyatt]

Thank you OP for this awesome write-up! Almost 10 years later, and your post is still helping people! I'm about to tackle this project and wanted to ask a question that seems really easy, but want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

I am replacing the radiator as well, so I have it out right now. Is there any reason that the zip ties have to go through both the A/C condenser and the radiator fins? I'd rather just install it into the A/C condenser right now before I put the new radiator in.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thank you OP for this awesome write-up! Almost 10 years later, and your post is still helping people! I'm about to tackle this project and wanted to ask a question that seems really easy, but want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

I am replacing the radiator as well, so I have it out right now. Is there any reason that the zip ties have to go through both the A/C condenser and the radiator fins? I'd rather just install it into the A/C condenser right now before I put the new radiator in.

That’s what I did.


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[MagusWyatt]

That’s what I did.


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Thanks for the response! Tackling this tonight.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Thanks for the response! Tackling this tonight.

My advice is not centering it infront of the cooling fan. Shift it to the passenger side where there is more air being pulled by the fan blades when your not moving.

I used the big TrueCool cooler.


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[Thebeastlives]

My advice is not centering it infront of the cooling fan. Shift it to the passenger side where there is more air being pulled by the fan blades when your not moving.

I used the big TrueCool cooler.


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I agree it is all about air flow. Crusing down the fwy at 75 mph I barely see 120 to 130 temps even when it is 105 degrees outside. Climbing I might see 155 to 165 temps but never beyond 170. Good air flow help more than anything helps with a trans cooler temps.

 

[varol1]

My cooler recently leaked due to a poor seal with one of the hoses and I ended up removing it to clean up the condenser fins, thereby breaking the B&M zip ties.

Amazon reviews on replacement cooler zip ties don't inspire confidence - has anyone tried a universal mounting kit like this one? Hayden Automotive 253 Metal Mounting Bracket Kit

It seems like there're enough pieces included to get creative enough to be able to mount the cooler.

 

[Joshv4runner]

10 years ago and now 305k I still have the same rig I followed this write up. One of the cooler lines started to fail and replaced it. Hoping for another 10+ years with this rig.

 

[IconicFJ_]

My cooler recently leaked due to a poor seal with one of the hoses and I ended up removing it to clean up the condenser fins, thereby breaking the B&M zip ties.

Amazon reviews on replacement cooler zip ties don't inspire confidence - has anyone tried a universal mounting kit like this one? Hayden Automotive 253 Metal Mounting Bracket Kit

It seems like there're enough pieces included to get creative enough to be able to mount the cooler.

I know this post is a few years old but I now sell bracket kits specifically for 3rd gen 4runners and Hayden and Derale coolers.

1996-2002 4runner Transmission Cooler Bracket Kit
– Iconic Fabrication