I believe the window safety switch is simply the switch that disables all the windows in the vehicle.
I am lost as to why my back window won't function. The key fob and the dash switch both make the relay click and the motor make a sound as if it's trying to run, but it just doesn't have enough juice to actually roll the window up or down. I thought it was the motor/regulator so I got another one from a junk yard and tried to test run it before I installed it. Same weak noise and it wouldn't operate the new motor. So I went to the yard and got a different power window relay orange box to see if that would fix the problem....And it didn't! Same click and weird noise like it's trying to run but can't!
If I hook up 12V directly to the motor/regulator from the battery it runs up and down no problem!!! I don't have a real way to test both of the relay's I have at this point so I guess it still could be a relay problem??
The relay in mine currently will only fire the rear defrost for a few seconds and the back wiper runs really slowly, and upon further testing tonight if the lights are on, the license plate lights dim super bad when the back wiper runs, and if you click the rear defrost button while the rear wiper is running it will stop the wiper in motion and run the rear defrost for about 5 seconds is all...So it's like it's wore out or something?
I did the same test with the other junk yard relay and it does the exact same thing!
Another wierd thing is that if you don't have that orange box plugged in, my keyless entry is rendered inop. And the different junk yard relay when plugged in disabled my keyless entry as well.
How is that little orange relay box for the power window have anything to do with keyless entry?
It sounds like a power supply issue or ground issue, where do I start? I just got the runner a couple days ago and am trying to learn as quick as I can.
Could it be a corroded fuse? Does one fuse run that whole tail gate electrical?
Thank you.