Back Window Problem.

Thanks for the good input. My rear window wasn't working for weeks... i figured it would be some electrical project where i would have to rip out panels and such. luckily I read about the rear wiper... apparently it had gotten jammed somehow. I just had to pop it up into its spot... run it a couple times, and now the window works again.
 
Thanks for this post

Im gonna give this a shot. I messed with all the wiring in the hatch last week to get the trim piece off the back of my runner to paint it and the window hasnt worked since.
 
Interesting Fix

I had this exact problem I bought my '98 last monday. I had it for 3 days and could figure out why my back window stopped working. After searching for hours to find out the problem I got a few hints and went out to look at the 4runner.

Seems that the back wiper has to be "off" the window for the back window to roll up and down. All I had to do was turn my wiper on and let it run. I shut it off and the back window worked fine. Seems to me if this doesn't work that you can manually make sure the wiper is off the window buy pulling it down onto the plastic "housing" that is on the door.
 
Same Problem

I sometimes have the same problem and I noticed that it's getting stuck on the rear wiper motor. You might want to look into that.

I have the same problem when trying to lower window. Track seems fine and motor is not loose. Any fix for this?
 
I sometimes have the same problem and I noticed that it's getting stuck on the rear wiper motor. You might want to look into that.

Were you able to fix this? I believe the same thing is happening to mine...goes down a couple of inches and the door bends right at the wiper blade
 
So my issue is: I have to pull on my rear wiper to let the window go down.

Any remedies?

I'm experiencing the same issue, every time I want to roll down the window I have to pull on the wiper while using my fob to open the window. Not the end of the world, but annoying nonetheless. If anyone has insight it'd be appreciated.
 
I'm experiencing the same issue, every time I want to roll down the window I have to pull on the wiper while using my fob to open the window. Not the end of the world, but annoying nonetheless. If anyone has insight it'd be appreciated.

I fixed my issue by removing the rear hatch plastic, removing the black metal cover... and finding out one of the 2 bolts that hold the rear windscreen wiper in place was loose.

It was a pain to tighten without a swivel head socket but I managed to tighten it up - and now my rear window goes up and down all the way no problem.
 
Good news! I turned on the rear defrost, ran the back wiper, and held the window button up, and next thing I know it rolls down. You have no idea how relieved I am to not have to pay for that new window motor and to put it in. Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it a lot. And I got it working just in time to go wheeling tonight.


I've got a spare motor one i'll sell it to you for 50
 
I dont ever use the back blade si i took it off, and put a small place of electrical tape on the switch. Haven't had any problems since.
 
Back Window Motor broken??

I have a 2001 Toyota 4Runner SR5 and when I push my rear window button it only goes down about an inch before it stops and I cannot make it go down anymore. I'm not sure if the motor is broken considering that it will not go down anymore. I can get it to go back up that one inch but that is all that I can move it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 
Here is my story AND thanx to the guys on this site!

So, here is my "DOH" moment of the day. After an exhausting and hot day (98 degrees) of Miniature golf with the wife and friends, I "show off" my very cool FOB feature of rolling the rear window down as we are walking up to my 4R. The rear window goes down without a hitch and everyone comments "how cool" and great to have on such a hot day!
Get in, fire up the A/C and hit the switch to bring the window back up...and nothing! I fiddle with the switch, the rear def, wiper and washer...nothing worked.
Then checked all the fuses and relays...everything good!
After 35 min with no fix, took the 45 min ride home with A/C on full and rear window down.
Jumped on the 'ol puter and Googled the situation and this thread popped right up...the damn safety switch?? NFW!!!
Sure as hell, went out and pushed the driver door safety switch and up went the rear window.
Now, here is what I am REALLY miffed at...why would the key FOB make it go down, but nothing else do anything? Makes absolutely no sense to me. There is no switch near the rear door on the interior for the rear window, shouldn't the dash switch override that?
Dumb if you ask me, but relieved it was such a simple "fix" if we can call it that.
Glad I found this thread BEFORE tearing the rear hatch apart!
Thanx guys!
 
ure as hell, went out and pushed the driver door safety switch and up went the rear window.!

Brought my Hilux home and the rear doesn't work. Checked all fuses and everything looks good. Then found that the plug for the switch was disconnected, so I replugged it and still nothing. Did the wiper thing, window lock button... everything. Not sure what the next step is to troubleshoot before removing the rear hatch inner cover. What is the driver door safety switch you are talking about?
 
I believe the window safety switch is simply the switch that disables all the windows in the vehicle.

I am lost as to why my back window won't function. The key fob and the dash switch both make the relay click and the motor make a sound as if it's trying to run, but it just doesn't have enough juice to actually roll the window up or down. I thought it was the motor/regulator so I got another one from a junk yard and tried to test run it before I installed it. Same weak noise and it wouldn't operate the new motor. So I went to the yard and got a different power window relay orange box to see if that would fix the problem....And it didn't! Same click and weird noise like it's trying to run but can't!

If I hook up 12V directly to the motor/regulator from the battery it runs up and down no problem!!! I don't have a real way to test both of the relay's I have at this point so I guess it still could be a relay problem??

The relay in mine currently will only fire the rear defrost for a few seconds and the back wiper runs really slowly, and upon further testing tonight if the lights are on, the license plate lights dim super bad when the back wiper runs, and if you click the rear defrost button while the rear wiper is running it will stop the wiper in motion and run the rear defrost for about 5 seconds is all...So it's like it's wore out or something?

I did the same test with the other junk yard relay and it does the exact same thing!

Another wierd thing is that if you don't have that orange box plugged in, my keyless entry is rendered inop. And the different junk yard relay when plugged in disabled my keyless entry as well.


How is that little orange relay box for the power window have anything to do with keyless entry?

It sounds like a power supply issue or ground issue, where do I start? I just got the runner a couple days ago and am trying to learn as quick as I can.

Could it be a corroded fuse? Does one fuse run that whole tail gate electrical?

Thank you.
 
What is the driver door safety switch you are talking about?

$_1.JPG


It's the switch next to the door lock button. Has what looks like a door window with an X in it.

This locks all the passenger windows including the rear window from being used.

It's weird, because if I recall correctly, in most vehicles I've been in, this switch disables controls for passengers, but not the driver. But in the 4runner, it's a lockout, even to the driver.
 
[MENTION=146637]dsms4ever[/MENTION]

Look at the wiring loom that goes from the top drivers side of the tailgate into the truck. My window wouldn't work and none of the easy solutions made it work either. I took the loom cover off and found two broken wires. I had to remove the rear cargo light and trim to gain better access. After some crimps, solder and shrink wrap my window works good as new.
 
My situation:

My rear window would roll down about 3" then stop. Someone suggested trying it from the outside, and holding / pulling the rear window wiper toward you (rear of vehicle) while turning the key to roll window down.

IT WORKED!


Something popped loose in there and was making the motor track bind up. I removed the panel of trunk door, and peaked in. I saw a loose connection, tightened it, and voila!
 
I believe the window safety switch is simply the switch that disables all the windows in the vehicle.

I am lost as to why my back window won't function. The key fob and the dash switch both make the relay click and the motor make a sound as if it's trying to run, but it just doesn't have enough juice to actually roll the window up or down. I thought it was the motor/regulator so I got another one from a junk yard and tried to test run it before I installed it. Same weak noise and it wouldn't operate the new motor. So I went to the yard and got a different power window relay orange box to see if that would fix the problem....And it didn't! Same click and weird noise like it's trying to run but can't!

If I hook up 12V directly to the motor/regulator from the battery it runs up and down no problem!!! I don't have a real way to test both of the relay's I have at this point so I guess it still could be a relay problem??

The relay in mine currently will only fire the rear defrost for a few seconds and the back wiper runs really slowly, and upon further testing tonight if the lights are on, the license plate lights dim super bad when the back wiper runs, and if you click the rear defrost button while the rear wiper is running it will stop the wiper in motion and run the rear defrost for about 5 seconds is all...So it's like it's wore out or something?

I did the same test with the other junk yard relay and it does the exact same thing!

Another wierd thing is that if you don't have that orange box plugged in, my keyless entry is rendered inop. And the different junk yard relay when plugged in disabled my keyless entry as well.


How is that little orange relay box for the power window have anything to do with keyless entry?

It sounds like a power supply issue or ground issue, where do I start? I just got the runner a couple days ago and am trying to learn as quick as I can.

Could it be a corroded fuse? Does one fuse run that whole tail gate electrical?

Thank you.

Sounds exactly like a bad ground. Remove the fabric strap, interior trim panel on the hatch and the two access covers (it's easy to do). Take a look inside an make sure nothing is broken or loose You could even have someone operate the motor, etc while you watch to see if the track is blocked at all.
 
Thanks for the response, I'll take a close look at the wiring tonight hopefully!

I took the orange relay box out of a 98. Will a 98 relay box work in my 2000? Like I said everything worked but my keyless entry?? Do you have to reprogram the key fobs to a different power window relay to make them work? It makes no sense?
 

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