Bad CV angles?

[wfo9]

With my caster and camber now back to where it should be I clear all around full compress or full droop. I did trim plastic but no body mount chop. The stt is 33.03 at the 285 so that makes sense. I just can’t imagine my truck clearing the 285 stts with no
Lift.

Read what you just stated and that will clarify why lifts don't clear bigger tires unless you change up other things like alignment, bump stops, axle location, body mount and fender trim... There is just not enough travel to begin with in IFS to increase the bump stops like you would typically do on a solid axle setup.

These pictures of my truck explain it. Do you really think my 3" lift is helping to clear the tires all when I'm on the bump stop?

I will agree a little rub here and there is not a big deal offroad and can be very annoying on a daily basis and a lift can help there.. but technically, they don't really clear bigger tires without the other changes.

Don't mean to sidetrack the thread.. but this is a common misunderstanding here.

 

[iwishiwasbigger]

Read what you just stated and that will clarify why lifts don't clear bigger tires unless you change up other things like alignment, bump stops, axle location, body mount and fender trim... There is just not enough travel to begin with in IFS to increase the bump stops like you would typically do on a solid axle setup.

These pictures of my truck explain it. Do you really think my 3" lift is helping to clear the tires all when I'm on the bump stop?

I will agree a little rub here and there is not a big deal offroad and can be very annoying on a daily basis and a lift can help there.. but technically, they don't really clear bigger tires without the other changes.

Don't mean to sidetrack the thread.. but this is a common misunderstanding here.

When I indicated camber and caster I meant my adjustments back to the stock spec. 3.0* positive caster and a 1/2 degree of negative camber. I didn’t have to set it to 4+* to get it to clear. Yes the plastic is trimmed on the front side a touch but I do not rub at any time on the body mount / mud flap that I have noted. On or off road...

Question: what would you say it would take (cutting wise) to make 285’s clear a stock ride height vehicle, while still being within factory alignment specs. Max of 3.8 positive caster.

 

[mrblah]

when I ran 285/70/17 ko2s on stock trail rims, it didn't rub on the body mount, but it did rub on the front plastic splash guard (easy fix), and alignment was in OEM spec.

Now when I added wheel spacers (main reason why I now rub), and lifted it up........it rubbed on the body mount, and everywhere in between. Adjustable UCA's kind of fixed it....it still rubs when I turn the wheel to full lock, but its liveable.

So bottom line is, you may or may not get lucky with rubbing on stock height w/ 285s, but you definitely, don't need a BMC if you choose the proper offset rims, and running adjustable UCA's... YMMV.

 

[Nimbostratus]

The wheels I have on order are Method Mesh 17x8.5 and 285/70/17 BFG ko2s. I don’t want to be replacing boots and/or axles all the time. Will the 4x4 still function fine?

 

[wfo9]

The wheels I have on order are Method Mesh 17x8.5 and 285/70/17 BFG ko2s. I don’t want to be replacing boots and/or axles all the time. Will the 4x4 still function fine?

Of course it will, Why would it not? I'm not sure where all this misinformation comes from on CV angles. The only issue is if you run much over 3" of lift at freeway speeds. Then you will have boots leak over time. The other major problem is running a top hat spacer. That can push the angles beyond spec and cause binding....

Besides that. you really can't hurt them. They are made to be at angles... and that is what happens at full droop when turning....They get at extreme angles and they work. Best to not lay into the throttle then, but they are made to do that...

Your wheels and if you get rubbing or not will depending on the backspacing/offset.

 

[Nimbostratus]

Of course it will, Why would it not? I'm not sure where all this misinformation comes from on CV angles. The only issue is if you run much over 3" of lift at freeway speeds. Then you will have boots leak over time. The other major problem is running a top hat spacer. That can push the angles beyond spec and cause binding....

Besides that. you really can't hurt them. They are made to be at angles... and that is what happens at full droop when turning....They get at extreme angles and they work. Best to not lay into the throttle then, but they are made to do that...

Your wheels and if you get rubbing or not will depending on the backspacing/offset.

I can’t see this lift being 3 inches much less more than 3. Do you any advise on how to make it better? I’ve read some people put long travel boots on. Just kind of new to all this. I think my wheels are a 0 offset with 4.5 inch backspacing

 

[wfo9]

I can’t see this lift being 3 inches much less more than 3. Do you any advise on how to make it better? I’ve read some people put long travel boots on. Just kind of new to all this. I think my wheels are a 0 offset with 4.5 inch backspacing

There is no reason to make it better you are fine if in the 3" range (even a little over is fine).... I can't really tell from a picture.. But mine don't look all that different and have about 70k on them with no issue to speak of.

You can stretch the inner boot some and re-clamp, or use a high angle aftermarket boot... but it is all mixed reviews. If I were you I would not try to fix what is not broken. The only thing I would do is lower it a bit if it seems high in the front.

 

[honda250xtitan]

OMG CV ANGLES! So many trigger words like binding and geometry.....those UCA's are gonna max out before anything else. you're fine man, make sure you're at 3" of lift and no more, and just run it.

Errr, 285’s will rub like a mofo. There’s no way I could not run the stt’s Without a bunch of chop... Just saying

wife's car is stock and running 285's. works fine for hard core mall crawling. just removed front mud flap and move the fender liner.


wheel offset plays a bigger role in if they'll rub or not.

 

[Nimbostratus]

OMG CV ANGLES! So many trigger words like binding and geometry.....those UCA's are gonna max out before anything else. you're fine man, make sure you're at 3" of lift and no more, and just run it.



wife's car is stock and running 285's. works fine for hard core mall crawling. just removed front mud flap and move the fender liner.


wheel offset plays a bigger role in if they'll rub or not.

Any clue what stock 4Runner hieght is so I can measure to see how much lift I’m at?

 

[cjacob316]

Any clue what stock 4Runner hieght is so I can measure to see how much lift I’m at?

My trail was about 19.5 from center of the front driver hub to the fender.

 

[iwishiwasbigger]

Any clue what stock 4Runner hieght is so I can measure to see how much lift I’m at?

At 2-3/4” Lift above factory in the rear I’m measuring 24” from middle of center hub to bottom of fender in the rear. At 3-3/4” above factory in front I’m measuring 23-7/8” from middle of center hub to bottom of fender. Not sure if the bottom of fender is a precise way but it should get you close-ish

 

[wfo9]

Stock is about 20 front 22 rear. From center of hub to top of fender. I think mine runt at 23.5 or 23.75 front. No boot issues yet. 4" in front is where problems seems to start.

There is an entire thread on it if you search "center of hub top of fender"

 

[Nimbostratus]

Tires and wheels didn’t change the angles at all.

 

[bimrunner]

Tires and wheels didn’t change the angles at all.

I don't think anybody said they would. The preload on the coilovers will change the angle and no matter what size tires or wheel combo you run, it will be the same. Best to understand that part to save your sanity. Change the lift amount and CV angles will change. Don't change lift and you can swap tires and wheels every day and have the same CV angles. :hippie: