Bad Luck's Boring Build Biography
- Thread starter Bad Luck
- Start date
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
The one difference I noticed was that when shutting off a hot engine, the fan kept rotating for a few seconds with the old clutch, but stopped instantly with the new clutch. That would suggest that the new clutch was more firmly "coupled" to the pulley when hot, which seems like a good thing (less slippage).
5/21/2022 203165 miles
-Flushed cooling system x3 with distilled water $10
-Replaced thermostat 9091603075 and thermostat gasket 1632562010 $32
-Replaced heater water valve 87240-35070 $35
-Replaced radiator Koyo VH010665N and radiator cap Koyo SK-C13 $420
-Filled cooling system with Toyota red coolant 00272-1LLAC and distilled water $70
-Removed and cleaned radiator overflow bottle $FREE
I started off draining the old green coolant out as best as I could, removing the thermostat (jiggle valve was at 12 o clock as I suspected by my higher temps) and then reinstalling without the thermostat. Switched front and rear heaters to heat, filled the cooling system with distilled water using my Lisle spill free funnel to help get air bubbles out, let it run for a few minutes, turned it off and drained the cooling system. Repeated that for a total of 3 flushes.
Replaced the radiator and discovered that all of the body holes for bolting the radiator in do not line up. Took a dremel and a couple bur bits to elongate the mounting holes. I didn't have any paint so I coated the bare metal with grease to prevent rust. I also discovered that my harbor freight right angle grinder head doesn't spin true and will explode a bit. That was fun... Luckily I have a dewalt right angle grinder as well. Just had to swap the bits out. Very disappointed that all the mounting holes needed to be elongated for the very expensive Koyo radiator.
Installed the new thermostat and gasket. Replaced the heater valve. I discovered when I went to fill the Koyo radiator that none of the Lisle spill free funnel attachments work with the filler neck so I cut a transmission funnel down to size to fit in the hole. That didn't work very well and the system wouldn't burp allowing me to put any more than 3 quarts in the radiator so I pulled the upper radiator hose and poured it down the hose until it came out the radiator. Reassembled and elevated the front end with the lift and ran it to get some air bubbles out. It didn't burp much which was suspicious so I have an extra gallon of coolant with me to top off after it cools. I parked it on a gnarly incline yesterday and topped off the radiator one last time. I've been seeing much cooler temps but haven't had the chance to tow anything again. Highest I've seen so far after the repairs is 190*F which is where my last 4Runner would go to.
EDIT: I'm fairly certain that I still had an OEM radiator as there were no transmission cooler fittings like 16410-AZ011 has which is what Toyota shows for manual and automatic 3rd gens. I guess Toyota figured it was easier to stock one radiator for all of them rather than have a separate part number for radiators without the transmission cooler for manuals.
-Flushed cooling system x3 with distilled water $10
-Replaced thermostat 9091603075 and thermostat gasket 1632562010 $32
-Replaced heater water valve 87240-35070 $35
-Replaced radiator Koyo VH010665N and radiator cap Koyo SK-C13 $420
-Filled cooling system with Toyota red coolant 00272-1LLAC and distilled water $70
-Removed and cleaned radiator overflow bottle $FREE
I started off draining the old green coolant out as best as I could, removing the thermostat (jiggle valve was at 12 o clock as I suspected by my higher temps) and then reinstalling without the thermostat. Switched front and rear heaters to heat, filled the cooling system with distilled water using my Lisle spill free funnel to help get air bubbles out, let it run for a few minutes, turned it off and drained the cooling system. Repeated that for a total of 3 flushes.
Replaced the radiator and discovered that all of the body holes for bolting the radiator in do not line up. Took a dremel and a couple bur bits to elongate the mounting holes. I didn't have any paint so I coated the bare metal with grease to prevent rust. I also discovered that my harbor freight right angle grinder head doesn't spin true and will explode a bit. That was fun... Luckily I have a dewalt right angle grinder as well. Just had to swap the bits out. Very disappointed that all the mounting holes needed to be elongated for the very expensive Koyo radiator.
Installed the new thermostat and gasket. Replaced the heater valve. I discovered when I went to fill the Koyo radiator that none of the Lisle spill free funnel attachments work with the filler neck so I cut a transmission funnel down to size to fit in the hole. That didn't work very well and the system wouldn't burp allowing me to put any more than 3 quarts in the radiator so I pulled the upper radiator hose and poured it down the hose until it came out the radiator. Reassembled and elevated the front end with the lift and ran it to get some air bubbles out. It didn't burp much which was suspicious so I have an extra gallon of coolant with me to top off after it cools. I parked it on a gnarly incline yesterday and topped off the radiator one last time. I've been seeing much cooler temps but haven't had the chance to tow anything again. Highest I've seen so far after the repairs is 190*F which is where my last 4Runner would go to.
EDIT: I'm fairly certain that I still had an OEM radiator as there were no transmission cooler fittings like 16410-AZ011 has which is what Toyota shows for manual and automatic 3rd gens. I guess Toyota figured it was easier to stock one radiator for all of them rather than have a separate part number for radiators without the transmission cooler for manuals.
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
I'm about to do similar, replacing the heater valve and removing the rear heater connection, and potentially the core
I'm also switching fronted to green and will use Blue Devil radiator flush with distilled water and new upper and lower hoses.
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I'm also switching fronted to green and will use Blue Devil radiator flush with distilled water and new upper and lower hoses.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I considered doing the heater core, but that would start a cascading repair avalanche. I would want to replace the evaporator as well which would lead to the condenser, drier, compressor, etc. The heat works great now so I'll postpone that until it either leaks or the ac gets a rebuild.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Removing the rear heater circuit (fluid) is pretty simple. I'll start there.
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I misread that lol I thought you meant the main heater core. I like my rear heater but to each their own
I'll add another +1. I had the same issue where engine temps would rise into the 200's idling with AC on in hot temps. Replaced my fan clutch and haven't had a issue since.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Sounds about right. The high temp issue I had was a leaking radiator cap. That was under load at speed though (and triple digit temps). Idle was perfect.
-Charlie
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Yes!!! Very happy it yielded the same results for you! It felt like I was all-knowing once I replaced it and it solved that problem. I was like a kid, it was great. Coming up on one year with the new fan clutch and the highest it’s gotten is either 193 or 195
brillo_76
Elite Member
Mine was a leaking water pump. I never got warm. I just was loosing small amounts of coolant and my system wouldn't pull coolant out of the overflow tank. Once I replaced the pump. It functioned properly and pulled from the overflow again.
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Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk
5/27/2022 203353 miles
-Replaced valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, half moons, and cam plugs (Parts list in post #3) $146
I stayed late after work to reseal the valve covers. Nothing major to note except how clean the valvetrain looked when I pulled the valve covers off. Looking really good for it's age in my opinion. I put the valve covers in the parts washer while I cleaned the old gasket material/sealant off the heads and replaced the cam plugs and half moons. The valve covers cleaned up pretty good as well. Spark plug tube seals looked in good condition, but I already had new ones to put on so I replaced them as well.
-Replaced valve cover gaskets, spark plug tube seals, half moons, and cam plugs (Parts list in post #3) $146
I stayed late after work to reseal the valve covers. Nothing major to note except how clean the valvetrain looked when I pulled the valve covers off. Looking really good for it's age in my opinion. I put the valve covers in the parts washer while I cleaned the old gasket material/sealant off the heads and replaced the cam plugs and half moons. The valve covers cleaned up pretty good as well. Spark plug tube seals looked in good condition, but I already had new ones to put on so I replaced them as well.
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6/4/2022 203456 miles
-Cleaned valve cover leaks with brake cleaner
-Removed skid plates to clean at a later time
-Drained engine oil, installed Fumoto F133N drain valve, filled engine oil w/syn 5W30 $28
I had to work Saturday morning, and like most Saturdays work was slow so I took advantage of the down time to do some cleanup that I didn't make time to do when I did my valve cover reseal the week before. I replaced the engine oil drain plug with Fumoto F133N drain valve as well.
-Cleaned valve cover leaks with brake cleaner
-Removed skid plates to clean at a later time
-Drained engine oil, installed Fumoto F133N drain valve, filled engine oil w/syn 5W30 $28
I had to work Saturday morning, and like most Saturdays work was slow so I took advantage of the down time to do some cleanup that I didn't make time to do when I did my valve cover reseal the week before. I replaced the engine oil drain plug with Fumoto F133N drain valve as well.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
The running parts list is invaluable! Thanks for updating it for others to follow and refer to :thumb:.
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They were religious on oil changes from what I could see in the maintenance folder that came with it when I bought it. I am very thankful for that!
You're welcome! I thought it would be a nice addition for other people looking with a 99-00. I already had it all in a note on my phone so it wasn't too bad to transfer it over and organize it somewhat.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Run some Rotella T6 for a few oil changes and it'll get even better...
That's mine after years of good oil service (maybe 270k total) and about 20k on Rotella T6.
I am jealous of how clean you got those valve covers!
-Charlie
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION], Heads do look good, any idea what oil was used ?
Mine @200k had darker oil stains just as clean, PO religious with oil changes at quicklube with house oil non syn.
Got me to thinking, is it frequency or oil quality.
Did you use ultra sonic cleaner ?
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION], I like that after pic.
Been running T4 25k mi pulling covers soon so I'll get to see the results.
Mine @200k had darker oil stains just as clean, PO religious with oil changes at quicklube with house oil non syn.
Got me to thinking, is it frequency or oil quality.
Did you use ultra sonic cleaner ?
[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION], I like that after pic.
Been running T4 25k mi pulling covers soon so I'll get to see the results.
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