Bad Luck's Boring Build Biography

[JoeT4R]

8/17/2022 205105 miles
-Replaced windshield through Safelite. Green with blue tint. $385

I had a couple rock chips and an abundance of little sand chips in the windshield. After seeing [MENTION=118429]Sarki[/MENTION] replace his windshield I decided I deserved a new windshield lol I had Safelite come to me at work for the replacement. Of course the day that I scheduled decided to rain, but fortunately I was able to park in the shop in an empty bay for the guy to do the windshield replacement. There were a few rust spots under the windshield rubber molding, but he cleaned them up and put a rust converter then primer on the rust spots. Overall I'm very happy with the result. It's amazing driving with a brand new windshield! I ordered Cerakote Ceramics windshield treatment and trim treatment. They should be arriving today, but it's going to rain for the next week so I will have to wait to apply it. If you are on the fence about getting your windshield replaced DO IT! You won't regret it.

Have any pics to show? I’d like to get a new windshield since mine has a couple minor rock cracks from lots of highway driving. And also minor little specks that just won’t go away. But I can’t drop $385 right now for it if I don’t NEED it and it’s not obstructing my view. I’m curious to see how the tint turned out, too.


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[RandyBobandy]

Have any pics to show? I’d like to get a new windshield since mine has a couple minor rock cracks from lots of highway driving. And also minor little specks that just won’t go away. But I can’t drop $385 right now for it if I don’t NEED it and it’s not obstructing my view. I’m curious to see how the tint turned out, too.


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Try calling around to some local independent installers, I got mine done a year or so ago and it wasn’t even $200 and the guy does a really good job

 

[Sarki]

Have any pics to show? I’d like to get a new windshield since mine has a couple minor rock cracks from lots of highway driving. And also minor little specks that just won’t go away. But I can’t drop $385 right now for it if I don’t NEED it and it’s not obstructing my view. I’m curious to see how the tint turned out, too.


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You should contact your insurance carrier. I have Hagerty Insurance and they confirmed a glass claim will not affect my premium at renewal time so I decided to go that route instead of paying out of pocket.

 

[Sarki]

Try calling around to some local independent installers, I got mine done a year or so ago and it wasn’t even $200 and the guy does a really good job

Prices have gone up in the last year or so as I replaced the windshield on my 2000 4Runner about a year ago at the same Safelite facility I had the windshield in my 02 replaced and only paid $220 at that time.
They claimed the increase was due to “supply chain issues”……very convenient!

 

[Bad Luck]

Have any pics to show? I’d like to get a new windshield since mine has a couple minor rock cracks from lots of highway driving. And also minor little specks that just won’t go away. But I can’t drop $385 right now for it if I don’t NEED it and it’s not obstructing my view. I’m curious to see how the tint turned out, too.


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Mine was more expensive because I had them come to me ($50) and paid extra to be the first one that morning ($15). But I did get $50 off by starting to make an appointment but not finishing it. They emailed me a discount code the next day which obviously worked lol

 

[brillo_76]

Looks great.

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[JoeT4R]

Looks great.

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I second that! Definitely looks crisp.


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[Bad Luck]

I noticed a chirping/squeaking noise today. It’s too faint to hear in the cab unless you have the windows open and the radio off. The noise goes away with a slight bit of pressure on the clutch pedal so I think the throw out bearing is making the noise. Not a mechanical problem yet, but I will be moving clutch/flywheel/rear main/transmission replacement up on the priority list.

 

[brillo_76]

I noticed a chirping/squeaking noise today. It’s too faint to hear in the cab unless you have the windows open and the radio off. The noise goes away with a slight bit of pressure on the clutch pedal so I think the throw out bearing is making the noise. Not a mechanical problem yet, but I will be moving clutch/flywheel/rear main/transmission replacement up on the priority list.

Very possible your throughout. Mostly they get squeaky when the clutch pushed in

Might need to just grease some things up and bee good.

Pilot bearing?

You know more when your in there...



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[Bad Luck]

Very possible your throughout. Mostly they get squeaky when the clutch pushed in

Might need to just grease some things up and bee good.

Pilot bearing?

You know more when your in there...



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I’ve always thought a bad pilot bearing makes noise when the clutch pedal is pushed in. With the clutch disengaged the input shaft and engine crank aren’t spinning the same speed. I’ll do some more research

 

[brillo_76]

I’ve always thought a bad pilot bearing makes noise when the clutch pedal is pushed in. With the clutch disengaged the input shaft and engine crank aren’t spinning the same speed. I’ll do some more research

Yes. I just trying to think what's all in there. Those are the only 2 bearings I think that's in there. Unless the pressure plate is slightly noisy.

You say you needed to slightly apply some clutch. Might just need a slave cylinder pin adjustment.

I need to look at my 5 speed clutch pieces as mine is still in pieces.

I know when I change a clutch. I replace all the bearings and pressure plate.

I am thinking [ might be incorrect]
When you engage the clutch, the pressure plate fingers disengage the clutch and your clutch throughout bearing is riding on those fingers of the pressure plate spinning.

The pilot holds the shaft in place for alignment. As those splines bind the engine and input shaft together.

Freewheel when the clutch is in and engaged. Throughout spinning as well.

When clutch out: Throughout just Sits there. Pressure plate clamp to the input shaft via the clutch.

The clutch and pressure plate are replaced with a torque convertor in the auto. So you can sit in gear at a stop sign if TC good.

In auto the transmission pump always spinning if engine is spinning. The TC regulates the fluid. The pump and TC are independent of each other and that's how you can sit in gear stopped

It's possible this isn't 100% correct it's just how I have it my mind.


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[Bad Luck]

Yes. I just trying to think what's all in there. Those are the only 2 bearings I think that's in there. Unless the pressure plate is slightly noisy.

You say you needed to slightly apply some clutch. Might just need a slave cylinder pin adjustment.

I need to look at my 5 speed clutch pieces as mine is still in pieces.

I know when I change a clutch. I replace all the bearings and pressure plate.

I am thinking [ might be incorrect]
When you engage the clutch, the pressure plate fingers disengage the clutch and your clutch throughout bearing is riding on those fingers of the pressure plate spinning.

The pilot holds the shaft in place for alignment. As those splines bind the engine and input shaft together.

Freewheel when the clutch is in and engaged. Throughout spinning as well.

When clutch out: Throughout just Sits there. Pressure plate clamp to the input shaft via the clutch.

The clutch and pressure plate are replaced with a torque convertor in the auto. So you can sit in gear at a stop sign if TC good.

In auto the transmission pump always spinning if engine is spinning. The TC regulates the fluid. The pump and TC are independent of each other and that's how you can sit in gear stopped

It's possible this isn't 100% correct it's just how I have it my mind.


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That’s pretty much how I have it, but I think the throw out bearing is spinning all the time. It’s just a matter of if there is any load/pressure on it from the pressure plate when the slave cylinder forces the throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers. At least there’s no devil magic going on like in a torque converter lol

 

[brillo_76]

That’s pretty much how I have it, but I think the throw out bearing is spinning all the time. It’s just a matter of if there is any load/pressure on it from the pressure plate when the slave cylinder forces the throw out bearing against the pressure plate fingers. At least there’s no devil magic going on like in a torque converter lol

Devil magic...LOL. Those TC are actually very complex for what they are and yet not super complex. Its really hard to visualize and fully understand what the fluid does. Its not devil magic though.

That's makes sense that the through out Its always spinning. I thought it had a little clearance when not engaged. There be no reason toas it's function to to disengage the pressure plate.

 

[Bad Luck]

I have an extremely loud and annoying squeak coming from the rear hatch when it's cold out. So I spaced out the wedge blocks for the rear hatch on the body side with 1 washer at each screw location and wiped the gasket down with silicone spray on a rag. Hopefully tomorrow morning it will be quiet.

In a separate issue my reverse lights haven't been working. Luckily I have a new reverse light switch in my parts box. Replaced the old with the new and verified I have reverse lights again. Easy peesy!

 

[Bad Luck]

11/5/2022 207064 miles
-Oil and OEM filter change $10
-Replaced spare tire valve stem and installed spare with valve stem facing down
-Tightened radiator drain plug
-Sanded thermostat housing hose connection where pitted with 150 grit

Found coolant seeping from drain plug on radiator and thermostat housing at the hose. Tightened the radiator drain plug. Slid the thermostat housing hose back to where it was almost off to inspect and found the thermostat housing pitted. Took some 150 grit sandpaper and smoothed out the housing and reinstalled hose. I had some free time to hook a smoke machine up to my exhaust and found multiple pin holes in the welding done when we salvaged the mangled exhaust from the transfer case explosion. I'll eventually get it fixed or the catalytic converters replaced/deleted. In the mean time I might just smear some exhaust putty over all the welds. It would be nice to not hear all my exhaust leaks.

I was originally planning on pulling the front diff and resealing the oil pan, but after I removed the skid plate I discovered the front diff drain and fill plugs were leaking and I didn't have new crush washers for them and neither did Toyota next door. I guess I'll try again at a later date. The week of Thanksgiving is usually pretty slow at work and there's usually a couple people off that week which means an open rack to use. I have new front axles, both front diff seals, and new lower ball joint bolts ready for the oil pan reseal. I figured I should just replace the front diff seals while it's out and replace the axles as well. As far as I can tell they are the original front axles and the boots are cracked and starting to seep.

I finally ordered a flywheel/clutch from LCE Performance. Everything looks good. I went ahead and ordered a new clutch hose and master cylinder. New transmission came with a new slave cylinder. I still need to modify the transmission gearing before I can install it. I'll probably try to do it the week of Christmas. The rear main leak is steadily getting worse as well.

EDIT: Just realized a year ago today I picked it up from a Toyota shop in Tennessee. That was a very long drive, but I'm still happy I got it.

 

[brillo_76]

You ever change a 3rd gen v6 rear main seal yet?

Might be best to do that and the oil pan together...

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[Bad Luck]

You ever change a 3rd gen v6 rear main seal yet?

Might be best to do that and the oil pan together...

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I haven't, but have everything to do the rear main when I do the transmission/clutch/flywheel. It doesn't look like the two have any overlap but I haven't done either lol

 

[brillo_76]

Well you can do it both ways.

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[Bad Luck]

Work was slow this week due to inclement weather. Which in the South doesn't take much for people to stay home. Tuesday I resealed my oil pan, front axle seals, new front axle shafts, and new lower ball joint bolts. The passenger side seal I installed too far so my brother was kind enough to 3d print an install tool for me that would only push the seal in 5mm before bottoming out. It worked great! Also took the time to clean the front diff and suspension with a bristle brush and brake cleaner to make it easier to spot leaks.

Work was still slow on Thursday/Friday so I replaced my transmission/flywheel/clutch, new rear main seal while I was there, new master/slave cylinders and braided clutch line, replaced the transfer case input seal, replaced all brake hoses with braided steel lines, and replaced the front sway bar bushings. I once again took the time to cleanup the transfer case and transmission tunnel to make it easier to identify leaks. The most time consuming part was removing the front and rear driveshafts. I was forced to use 2 wrenches due to lack of clearance. Brakes/clutch system bled thoroughly.

Test drove after reassembly and verified operation and no leaks. I'm honestly underwhelmed by the 5th gear ratio change I did, but I've only driven it about 30 miles or so since the swap. I'll give a more updated review after some more seat time.

 

[Bad Luck]

2/1/23-2/3/23 209278 miles

-Resealed oil pan $FREE
-Replaced front axle seals $40
-Replaced front axle shafts (TO-8043EXT) $250 RockAuto
-Replaced clutch/heavyweight flywheel/rear main seal (LCE Engineering Pro Clutch Kit) $837
-Replaced master cylinder $66
-Braided stainless steel clutch line $39
-Replaced transmission (slave cylinder/throwout bearing/arm included)
-5th gear swap on transmission $250
-Transfer case shifter gaskets $10
-Transfer case input seal $10
-Front sway bar bushings $FREE
-Front/rear brake lines (1st Gen Tacoma front hoses to eliminate hard line at calipers) $130
-Engine oil/gear oil/brake fluid $FREE

Prices and part numbers pending. Maybe even some photos if I can find the motivation.