Bad Starter...?

Update

Sorry it's a few days late but wanted to report back having had the problem solved for a few days.

Well, the situation got a little hairy. I got the battery tested.... and they where fine. I got the alternator looked at it... and it was fine. The starter was also fine. I was driving down 77 doing about 78 MPH+/- and the truck shut down powering down everything. Put it in nurtural (to start it up again) and it started back up by itself. It was then was fine for 30 miles + and did the same thing again although at a lower speed around 26 mph in the city.

So I got home and took everything apart. Took all the wires out. Took the whole setup out and gave it a good clean, tightened everything back up and put the kodiak dual battery system back in place. Well two days later.... the issue seems to have been resolved.

Whats weird is even if you drive down a highway and (somehow disconnect your battery terminals) the car would still run. So why would the truck shut down like it did.... My only thought is some form of surge being created from a loose connection or terminal causing the ECU to shutdown to prevent damage. Now I could be way off but I cant think of anything else, thoughts?

As always your thoughts and opoions are greatly appreciated,

Thanks!
 
MeBe4running said:
Sorry it's a few days late but wanted to report back having had the problem solved for a few days.

Well, the situation got a little hairy. I got the battery tested.... and they where fine. I got the alternator looked at it... and it was fine. The starter was also fine. I was driving down 77 doing about 78 MPH+/- and the truck shut down powering down everything. Put it in nurtural (to start it up again) and it started back up by itself. It was then was fine for 30 miles + and did the same thing again although at a lower speed around 26 mph in the city.

So I got home and took everything apart. Took all the wires out. Took the whole setup out and gave it a good clean, tightened everything back up and put the kodiak dual battery system back in place. Well two days later.... the issue seems to have been resolved.

Whats weird is even if you drive down a highway and (somehow disconnect your battery terminals) the car would still run. So why would the truck shut down like it did.... My only thought is some form of surge being created from a loose connection or terminal causing the ECU to shutdown to prevent damage. Now I could be way off but I cant think of anything else, thoughts?

As always your thoughts and opoions are greatly appreciated,

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Shutting down on the freeway?????? Now that is scary.:wow2:
 
MeBe4running said:
Sorry it's a few days late but wanted to report back having had the problem solved for a few days.

Well, the situation got a little hairy. I got the battery tested.... and they where fine. I got the alternator looked at it... and it was fine. The starter was also fine. I was driving down 77 doing about 78 MPH+/- and the truck shut down powering down everything. Put it in nurtural (to start it up again) and it started back up by itself. It was then was fine for 30 miles + and did the same thing again although at a lower speed around 26 mph in the city.

So I got home and took everything apart. Took all the wires out. Took the whole setup out and gave it a good clean, tightened everything back up and put the kodiak dual battery system back in place. Well two days later.... the issue seems to have been resolved.

Whats weird is even if you drive down a highway and (somehow disconnect your battery terminals) the car would still run. So why would the truck shut down like it did.... My only thought is some form of surge being created from a loose connection or terminal causing the ECU to shutdown to prevent damage. Now I could be way off but I cant think of anything else, thoughts?

As always your thoughts and opoions are greatly appreciated,

Thanks!
Click to expand...

There's only one possible conclusion...SPACE ALIENS!!!
 
Double check ALL your grounds while you're at it, an even slightly bad ground can cause all sorts or problems.

What I've been doing to my truck is improving the ground connections as I do other wiring. I disconnect the battery, remove the ground to be improved, add some solder to the crimped connector, then reinstall it using electrical corrosion inhibitor. This keep corrosion from getting into the crimped connector and from getting between the connector and chassis.
 
Check the main power wire headed into your underhood fusebox.

Long shot, but I know when I did the fog-mod for Kraeken we noticed his running lights would flicker a tiny bit and his guages were acting funny. After some trouble shooting it turned out to be that wire, just a tad loose (I hadn't touched it either...).

Hope you figure it out!
 
To second on Gary's comment. Eliminate the dual battery connection (particularly the solenoid/isolator). Try running just one battery for a week and see if anything happens. I am wondering if the solenoid might be bad. When the solenoid opens, it breaks the circuit and you lose power.

I used to have an issue like this with a stereo amplifier, I had to wire a switch to tell the amp when to come on.

Good luck!
 
Antman said:
Check the main power wire headed into your underhood fusebox.

Long shot, but I know when I did the fog-mod for Kraeken we noticed his running lights would flicker a tiny bit and his guages were acting funny. After some trouble shooting it turned out to be that wire, just a tad loose (I hadn't touched it either...).

Hope you figure it out!
Click to expand...

Now thats a good point. I hadn't thought of that. First thing tomorrow morning, I will check that. Thank you and if I don't figure it out.... I'll trek my way up to the cove for some Antman repair work :)
 
MeBe4running said:
Now thats a good point. I hadn't thought of that. First thing tomorrow morning, I will check that. Thank you and if I don't figure it out.... I'll trek my way up to the cove for some Antman repair work :)
Click to expand...


Wasnt that..,

I am going to try a few things next week.

Will update
 
This situation sounds bad and confusing. I think I'd take it back to stock and see if that eliminates the problem.

I had to deal with some gremlins on my Land Rover. I replaced a lot of parts getting it sorted. The ones I recall right now were the battery, and starter, and even the batteries in the keys, but also found that if the shift lever was not ALL the way forward into park it would prevent the truck from starting.

Edit to add: The starter was my main problem on the LR, and I think I'll go with the IBS dual batt setup when I get around to spending money on it....
 
Last edited:
Mick1 said:
This situation sounds bad and confusing. I think I'd take it back to stock and see if that eliminates the problem.

I had to deal with some gremlins on my Land Rover. I replaced a lot of parts getting it sorted. The ones I recall right now were the battery, and starter, and even the batteries in the keys, but also found that if the shift lever was not ALL the way forward into park it would prevent the truck from starting.
Click to expand...

Well, it sure is. I have now seen two mechanics who cant get their head around it either. So it is staying put until tomorrow.

I have left two messages with Yawn (*spelling) (owner of Kodiak Industries) on thursday and friday and yet to have a call back. I will be trying a again on Monday.

I agree totally with you and harper7 about the issue being within the dual battery setup. I will take it back to stock tomorrow for the time being..... It just sucks because the setup has worked flawlessly for a little over a year.
 
Update :/

Well, took the whole dual battery setup out again and placed it back to stock. Everything is working and almost back to normal. Though something still isn't right. Last two days I went to start the car... cranked right up no problem they just cut out then re-started the truck boom stayed on.

So its dealer time. I fear the outcome...

Thanks for all your input and advice folks!
 
I think I understand what you wrote. Just a typo confused me.

So good luck at the dealer. However, if you just want to part it out, I call dibs on the rear bumper... :bigok:
 
Mick1 said:
I think I understand what you wrote. Just a typo confused me.

So good luck at the dealer. However, if you just want to part it out, I call dibs on the rear bumper... :bigok:
Click to expand...

A typo, that is very polite of you to say Mick. I think you mean to say that I have WAY to much going on in my head and that I'm beginning to contradict what I am writing about! In fact I'm starting to beilve my own bull-crap :wink2::lol:

IF I part out the truck.... The rear bumper would be offered to you first. Sorry to say but thats not happening for hopefully quite some time!
 
LOL, yeah were not at the part-out time yet. I was j/k, but I do like that bumper....:hiding:

I have complete confidence you'll get it worked out.

So just to clarify. It is back to stock but still had an issue. Depending on what the issue was. Maybe start with switching out the battery?

This might get solved the "mechanic's way", i.e. throw new parts at it until its fixed, or the customer runs out of money....
 
Is your battery grounded ok?

Our trucks start then shut off after the ECU is reset - then they will start up fine just as you are describing. So if you unplug your negative terminal, then plug it back in it will do this.

I'm guessing after you turn your truck off it resets itself...

I would think your battery is staying charged if you have enough juice to crank it, there is just some disconnect somewhere.
 
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