battery help

Ahh, okay, so almost 600 bucks if you can get the two batteries at 230 bucks, and if not, 700 bucks. I stand corrected.

Again, all this to run a fridge or air compressor?:dizzy:

It's all good, didn't mean to step on anyone. Sorry.

Think of it like a Boy Scout, Be prepared.

I added the 2nd battery when my TE was new, I couldn't see tossing out a brand new battery(even if it is a panasonic) , so I only bought one battery ($250) So $350 in my case with no fancy monitoring harnesses or crazy $100+ brackets.

The spare battery is for the accessories that are always on, like the fridge. When we go camping we hit it for a week and up to 10 days, we rarely fire up the rigs for anything. We hike, fish, hunt, but not much driving.

When the 4R is not running the batteries are isolated from each other so the starting battery doesn't drain down or even have a chance of getting run down from the fridge. Don't want to take the chance of being stranded someplace.

I also added Anderson power pole connectors so I can hook up just about anything needing 12v. Like LED Camp Lights. I can also use the same port for Jumper cables, the trailer winch, compressor, etc. Granted if I do much of that I would fire up the engine to keep it charged.

It just adds flexibility and peace of mind. Totally worth the $350 for me and when the OEM battery does go T-up then I can invest the other $300, but at that point it will be normal maintenance instead of just a waste of cash by tossing a perfectly good battery if I had done it when the 4R was new.
 
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I wanted an AGM battery and got the Duralast Platinum 34R from Autozone a year ago for about $160. It's a perfect fit with the supplied spacer that sit underneath the battery.
8b4e79a8859942c8169478979345df54.jpg
 
It's all good, didn't mean to step on anyone. Sorry.

Think of it like a Boy Scout, Be prepared.

I added the 2nd battery when my TE was new, I couldn't see tossing out a brand new battery(even if it is a panasonic) , so I only bought one battery ($250) So $350 in my case with no fancy monitoring harnesses or crazy $100+ brackets.

The spare battery is for the accessories that are always on, like the fridge. When we go camping we hit it for a week and up to 10 days, we rarely fire up the rigs for anything. We hike, fish, hunt, but not much driving.

When the 4R is not running the batteries are isolated from each other so the starting battery doesn't drain down or even have a chance of getting run down from the fridge. Don't want to take the chance of being stranded someplace.

I also added Anderson power pole connectors so I can hook up just about anything needing 12v. Like LED Camp Lights. I can also use the same port for Jumper cables, the trailer winch, compressor, etc. Granted if I do much of that I would fire up the engine to keep it charged.

It just adds flexibility and peace of mind. Totally worth the $350 for me and when the OEM battery does go T-up then I can invest the other $300, but at that point it will be normal maintenance instead of just a waste of cash by tossing a perfectly good battery if I had done it when the 4R was new.

Its cool! For your scenario, that makes a good amount of sense, since you're not running the vehicle at all for many days. Personally, I'd go with a 100W solar panel and just bungee it to the roof of the vehicle, they're relatively cheap enough nowadays, including the required solar panel controller, and that would keep the battery fully charged throughout the day, requiring the battery to run whatever you have once it gets dark.
 
Its cool! For your scenario, that makes a good amount of sense, since you're not running the vehicle at all for many days. Personally, I'd go with a 100W solar panel and just bungee it to the roof of the vehicle, they're relatively cheap enough nowadays, including the required solar panel controller, and that would keep the battery fully charged throughout the day, requiring the battery to run whatever you have once it gets dark.
I don't want to throw this too far off topic...
but do you have a link to such a thing?
 
I replaced my 2010 OEM battery on Sat -- was going to get the DieHard Platinum but Sears in SLC was out of stock on them and the manager said the Platinum line was apparently going EOL and they hadn't received any new stock of Platinums for over a month (and they were out in several sizes). Anybody else heard this?

I ended up with the Group 34R Gold version for $165+tax. It's also an AGM but with 3 yr vs 5 yr warranty. Not sure on the CCA differences... Since I was willing to spend the $250+tax on the Platinum if she could get one I doubt she was just trying to make a quicker sale on the Gold version but could be wrong...
 
The autozone AGM batteries "Platinum" are very similar in specs as the Sears ones. More limited on sizes, seems there are way more autozones than Sears atleast in my neck of the woods.

Good read on batteries here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/battery-information.610857/

"There are three large AGM manufactures- Odyssey, East-Penn- Deka Intimidator, and Optima (Johnson Controls). It is worth noting that the first two are U.S. manufactured, Optimas are now manufactured in Mexico and there have been many complaints of quality since production for the Optimas was moved."
 
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I don't want to throw this too far off topic...
but do you have a link to such a thing?

Yeah, sorry for the hijack OP!:hello:

Here's the panel I use, have two of them for my shop:

SOLAR PANEL WITH CONTROLLER


The Goal Zero panels are nice, but expensive. These Renogy panels aren't really made for strapping to a vehicle's roof and driving around, but for camping/outdoor use, I can throw the panel in the back and when I get where I want to be, just bungee it to the roof, plug in the controller (I have it all wired up with R/C car-type "Dean's" plugs) and run a splitter to the rear 12VDC cig plug (which I've wired constant to the battery) to be able to charge the vehicle and run one item off the second jack.

The Renogy panel is 100 watts @ 12VDC and provides up to 5.5A of power into the controller at full direct sunlight. At this amount of current, it should be able to charge the battery quite fast AND run the ARB all at the same time.
 
One of the BEST battery ever. Fit into the original location, the fitting is a little tight, but it works.

Odyssey Battery 31M-PC2150ST

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TCRERQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000TCRERQ&linkCode=as2&tag=jickrevi-20">Odyssey 31M-PC2150ST-M TROLLING Thunder Marine Dual Purpose Battery</a><img src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=jickrevi-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000TCRERQ" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
 
Yeah, sorry for the hijack OP!:hello:

Here's the panel I use, have two of them for my shop:

SOLAR PANEL WITH CONTROLLER


The Goal Zero panels are nice, but expensive. These Renogy panels aren't really made for strapping to a vehicle's roof and driving around, but for camping/outdoor use, I can throw the panel in the back and when I get where I want to be, just bungee it to the roof, plug in the controller (I have it all wired up with R/C car-type "Dean's" plugs) and run a splitter to the rear 12VDC cig plug (which I've wired constant to the battery) to be able to charge the vehicle and run one item off the second jack.

The Renogy panel is 100 watts @ 12VDC and provides up to 5.5A of power into the controller at full direct sunlight. At this amount of current, it should be able to charge the battery quite fast AND run the ARB all at the same time.
thanks. I was actually looking at that exact product.




i appreciate the link, but im not sure its the right one, or maybe it wasn't meant for me?
I was asking about a solar charger set up.

matter of fact, I have basically the same dual battery set up on my wheeler. have been running it that way for years. its great!

though, that says to not jump the battery through the solenoid, to use jumper cables instead. not sure what that's about, I have jumped mine that way several times, no issues. it works perfectly.
 
Didn't I read sometime back that the Sears Platinum is basically a rebadged Odessy?

I think people speculate that based on the similarity in specifications. Warranty are definitely handled differently tho. While not to say that Sears warranty is bad at all. Personally, I just prefers Odyssey.
 
i appreciate the link, but im not sure its the right one, or maybe it wasn't meant for me?
I was asking about a solar charger set up.

On that link I posted, scroll down to post #4. It shows how to wire in a solar panel....
 
One of the BEST battery ever. Fit into the original location, the fitting is a little tight, but it works.

Odyssey Battery 31M-PC2150ST

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TCRERQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000TCRERQ&linkCode=as2&tag=jickrevi-20">Odyssey 31M-PC2150ST-M TROLLING Thunder Marine Dual Purpose Battery</a><img src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=jickrevi-20&l=as2&o=1&a=B000TCRERQ" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />

you have soom pics of it in there? about to buy today.
 
I have an XS Power D3400R, almost the same size as the oem Panasonic battery but a little shorter; yet more efficient. had to replace one of the battery tie down shaft/bolt since the battery is shorter. Can post up pics if you'd like.
 
I have an XS Power D3400R, almost the same size as the oem Panasonic battery but a little shorter; yet more efficient. had to replace one of the battery tie down shaft/bolt since the battery is shorter. Can post up pics if you'd like.

Do you have photos of this? I'm looking at that exact battery and am considering a spacer for the bottom to make it fit OEM.
 

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