BE CAREFUL if you install wheel spacers

I would never run spacers on our 4runners. Aftermarket wheels for our tricks are fairly cheap compared to the BMW world I am used to.

Plus spacers in some countries are illegal to use, i.e. Australia where it is the 4x4 capital of the world IMO.

Tire companies will not touch your vehicle also if you have wheel spacers here in California, American Tire Company, etc.

Safety alone, fork up the $800 and get some aftermarket wheels with better offset. Sell your old OEM wheels for $400 on CL, bam only $400 for a new set of wheels. Small price to pay for safely.

I can understand where you are coming from, but my local America Tires (Different from American Tires Company) touches my car, and I am from Orange County too. Some folks love the look of OEM wheels better than aftermarket, but of course they do not come with the wider stance. So sometimes it is not a money issue. I've used spacers/wheel adapters for years before owning my 4Runner. I've never ran into any problems. And now I have them on my 4Runner, because I LOVE the look of the 2014+ Trail Edition wheels on mine, again, this is all opinions. Me personally, I rotate my tires every oil change, 4-5K. That is the perfect time to re-check my torque. If at any point the lug nuts move, I will re-check after 100 miles. If not, I will re-check on my next oil change. If spacers were so bad, why does multiple companies make them and keep selling them? 99.9% of the time it fails, it is because of installation error, which was stated by the OG thread starter.
 
or just dont be a hack POS installer. That solves the issues.

70,000 miles not one issue and i jump my shit often. Keep spreading the false fearful info though.

If you have a spacer failure and your tire hits another car, I guarantee it's a lawsuit you lose. Even if it's the bolts that shear off, you have no ground to stand on.
 
If you have a spacer failure and your tire hits another car, I guarantee it's a lawsuit you lose. Even if it's the bolts that shear off, you have no ground to stand on.



I prefer to not live in fear. Any suspension mods can snap and send you off a cliff into a protected bird and be sued. Get over it. Don't install like a POS. Mine haven't even budged.
 
:behindsofa:Ran 3/4" wheel spacers for over 4 years without any issues.
Hell BlackWorksInc ran one of mine on his front that was WAY out of whack, trying to pull him off the road, for close to 15 miles.
Spacer is fine.:blabla: No snapping. They are fairly tough, I would lean towards the "over torque" idea.
Not to sure if I have ever even had the air pressure the same from the tire shop.
 
The studs sheared or the wheel bearing seperated? I find it hard to believe the bearing failed so suddenly without signs before hand.

Someone mention torquing the wheels and adapters correctly, this is critical as bolts and studs are designed for a certain amount of elasticity. Once you go beyond that range, they become plastic and and stretch out but can no longer "Spring Back" and thus they will tend to break more easily. This is why you see lots of broken studs on wheels because people typically throw wheels on with impact guns and over torque the wheel nuts.

A good quick explaination of what I am saying:

http://www.enerpac.com/en-us/bolting-theory



I didn't even look to be honest, he just showed me a picture of his wheel almost separated from his truck. I would say it was held on by a string but that would make no sense, so I'm going to say the studs sheared because it was hanging by what looked like his brake lines and some imaginary strings


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I would never run spacers on our 4runners. Aftermarket wheels for our tricks are fairly cheap compared to the BMW world I am used to.

Plus spacers in some countries are illegal to use, i.e. Australia where it is the 4x4 capital of the world IMO.

Tire companies will not touch your vehicle also if you have wheel spacers here in California, American Tire Company, etc.

Safety alone, fork up the $800 and get some aftermarket wheels with better offset. Sell your old OEM wheels for $400 on CL, bam only $400 for a new set of wheels. Small price to pay for safely.


Sometimes, you don't have any other options if you're trying to match widths from wider axles....short of building a custom housing.

Fear mongering helps no one though....fact is: spacers are safe if you install quality components properly.
 
If you have a spacer failure and your tire hits another car, I guarantee it's a lawsuit you lose. Even if it's the bolts that shear off, you have no ground to stand on.

And if your factory wheel comes off b/c it wasn't properly torqued down, you'd be liable for that too....meaning: your point is moot.
 
I stood there as they torqued them down and installed them and I personally used red loctite on all of the studs spidertrax and have been off roading with no problems time for a re-torque.,,all 2x24 by hand even the tires
 
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I stood there as they torqued them down and installed them and I personally used red loctite on all of the studs spidertrax and have been off roading with no problems time for a re-torque.,,all 2x24 by hand even the tires

I used the loctite that came with the kit as well, been running for over a year no issues.
 
And if your factory wheel comes off b/c it wasn't properly torqued down, you'd be liable for that too....meaning: your point is moot.

Find a lawyer who could prove it. Spacers are easy to identify as a failure point. Tracking down the shop who put your tires on with an impact for the average person who knows jack shit would be impossible.

So it's not a moot point.
 
Find a lawyer who could prove it. Spacers are easy to identify as a failure point. Tracking down the shop who put your tires on with an impact for the average person who knows jack shit would be impossible.

So it's not a moot point.

Uh....Liability is determined by negligence....be that intentional or unintentional. No one is going to argue that a tire coming off was 'on purpose'. If your vehicle causes an accident....YOU'RE the one that will be found negligent, regardless of mechanical failure, distracted driving or "wheel spacers", LOL.
 
I've ran wheel spacers on many of my vehicles. The key is, proper torque.
They essentially mount as if you have a different offset rims. No difference!
This I would guess was a case of improper torque. I normally torque my lugs to 80-85 ft/lbs. (Never had any issue)
Using Loctite or any other viscus fluid will change the torque value, as compared to dry torque.
I believe 80-85 ft/lbs. is dry torque recommendations.
So with Loctite it would be lower. But still ok to go to that value.
100ft/lbs torque seems a bit high using loctite.
The bolts may have already been at the point of yelding. So just a modest bump could cause them all to fail. (Which seems to be the case)

What ever the reason? I doubt it was the cause of the spacers.

Here in Hawaii I see some pretty F'd up wide ass rims, which put way more stress on the hubs and lugs.
Much more than any Spidertrax spacers.

1.25" spacers on the stock rims make them equal to a rim with 4.25" BS. (Which really isn't that bad)

Just be careful about the amount you torque the studs to, and you should be fine!
 
Was doing some research on wheel studs and ran across this old thread.

Just wanted to add my experiences, I've ran spidertrax spacers on my:

2000 Tacoma
2004 Tacoma
2011 Tacoma
2012 Tacoma
2013 Tacoma
2016 Tacoma

Installed them myself, followed directions properly, used a torque wrench that's alway put back into its case after using.

ZERO issues, great product !
 
I've ran wheel spacers on many of my vehicles. The key is, proper torque.
They essentially mount as if you have a different offset rims. No difference!
This I would guess was a case of improper torque. I normally torque my lugs to 80-85 ft/lbs. (Never had any issue)
Using Loctite or any other viscus fluid will change the torque value, as compared to dry torque.
I believe 80-85 ft/lbs. is dry torque recommendations.
So with Loctite it would be lower. But still ok to go to that value.
100ft/lbs torque seems a bit high using loctite.
The bolts may have already been at the point of yelding. So just a modest bump could cause them all to fail. (Which seems to be the case)

What ever the reason? I doubt it was the cause of the spacers.

Here in Hawaii I see some pretty F'd up wide ass rims, which put way more stress on the hubs and lugs.
Much more than any Spidertrax spacers.

1.25" spacers on the stock rims make them equal to a rim with 4.25" BS. (Which really isn't that bad)

Just be careful about the amount you torque the studs to, and you should be fine!

Exactly. Stock 4th gen wheels have an offset of +30mm (+1.18"). Add a 1.25" spacer and you're left with -1.75mm (0.07") offset. Very close to the 0" offset FN FX Pro wheels which are very popular on this forum. TRD Pro wheels only have a +4mm offset. I have to believe that the scrub radius difference between these three setups is negligible.
 
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Exactly. Stock 4th gen wheels have an offset of -30mm (-1.18"). Add a 1.25" spacer and you're left with +1.75mm (0.07") offset. Very close to the 0" offset FN FX Pro wheels which are very popular on this forum. TRD Pro wheels only have a -4mm offset. I have to believe that the scrub radius difference between these three setups is negligible.

How did you get to these numbers? Not following, please clarify. Thanks!
Also, isn't the offset positive on the 4th gens (30mm) and 15mm on the 5th gen?
 
Hand Torqued to 85lbs, and checked every time I rotate tires. I haven't had any issues on my 16' Tacoma. Just took them off when I installed Ray-10's.

I've run many wheels spacers in the past, I normally stay away from the low quality stuff. Spridertrax or Bora for me.

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This post definitely makes me want to take mine off or at least double check they're all torqued to spec. Especially since I have a 4-year son I drive all over
 

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