Best and safest engine flush

Traveler74

New member
I am looking for the best and safest way to flush my engine oil system and hopefully clean the oil pick-up tube screen at the same time.
I have 195 K miles on the T4R

I watched numerous youtube videos on how to do that with kerosene, diesel fuel, etc but I eventually discovered that those products can damage oil seals. So that is OUT !

Any suggestions on how to safely do an engine flush to clean out sludge, hard gritty bits etc gratefully appreciated.

On the same subject, what do guys think about using a detergent motor oil as a way to help clean the engine ?

Thank you.
 
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BG 109

I use it regularly on my S Series Saturn to keep the oil rings unstuck.

In fact all BG products are awesome.


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Tbh I feel like you would have to keep the diesel in the sump for stupidly long to kill a gasket. I would fill the sump and let it sit overnight before an oil change. This is if you think your oil pressure problem is caused by sludge. Fill with pennzoil platinum. Some people like to change the oil quick. I find keeping that pennzoil for a full interval really cleans that sludge away quickly.
 
Tbh I feel like you would have to keep the diesel in the sump for stupidly long to kill a gasket. I would fill the sump and let it sit overnight before an oil change. This is if you think your oil pressure problem is caused by sludge. Fill with pennzoil platinum. Some people like to change the oil quick. I find keeping that pennzoil for a full interval really cleans that sludge away quickly.


Yes, and I also suspect the screen on the oil pick-up tube is clogged. So, you believe that diesel fuel might clean the screen on the oil pick-up tube if I poured 2-3 quarts of diesel fuel into the oil pan and let it soak for 12-18 hours ? Naturally, I'd drain all oil first.
 
Yes, and I also suspect the screen on the oil pick-up tube is clogged. So, you believe that diesel fuel might clean the screen on the oil pick-up tube if I poured 2-3 quarts of diesel fuel into the oil pan and let it soak for 12-18 hours ? Naturally, I'd drain all oil first.

If I'm filling it then I'd fill it a whole 6 quarts. Not like you are starting it up. I generally do not recommend flushing. Too fast. This needs to be a slow process to minimize the chance of lockup, but since this is already triggering the light you have no other choice.

SLUDGE! 13 Year Late Oil Change & First Start - Daihatsu Cuore Avanzato TR-XX R4 Project Episode 2 - YouTube
 
Being in Mexico see if you can find Mobil 1 High Mileage in the 10w-30 or 40 weight, or even Rotella T6. All will slowly clean the inside of the engine.

Also may want to use a little Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase if you can’t find any of the three above.
 
pulling the pan is not that big a deal. that being said a good oil like said above is a good option with some Marvel. Another alternative to Marvel you could substitute 1/2 a qt of any automatic transmission fluid in your oil change. I would not drive it real hard and plan on changing the oil and filter in about 1,000 miles. Repeat if you it is really bad. :fishing:
 
If I'm filling it then I'd fill it a whole 6 quarts. Not like you are starting it up. I generally do not recommend flushing. Too fast. This needs to be a slow process to minimize the chance of lockup, but since this is already triggering the light you have no other choice.

SLUDGE! 13 Year Late Oil Change & First Start - Daihatsu Cuore Avanzato TR-XX R4 Project Episode 2 - YouTube

I Watched that video. WOW ! If diesel fuel will clean out that nasty mess, I feel certain that it will do wonders for me. thank you, T4R2014

I have heard of Marvel Mystery Oil but I have never used it. After viewing many youtube videos, I'm convinced that it is an excellent product. So, I think the safest method to solve my problem is to 1st use diesel fuel as an over night soak, drain it out and then fill with 5W-30 and a new Toyota oil filter AND add Marvel Mystery oil. If idiot light goes out, I'll run it under a light load and see what happens.
 
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I Watched that video. WOW ! If diesel fuel will clean out that nasty mess, I feel certain that it will do wonders for me. thank you, T4R2014

I have heard of Marvel Mystery Oil but I have never used it. After viewing many youtube videos, I'm convinced that it is an excellent product. So, I think the safest method to solve my problem is to 1st use diesel fuel as an over night soak, drain it out and then fill with 5W-30 and a new Toyota oil filter AND add Marvel Mystery oil. If idiot light goes out, I'll run it under a light load and see what happens.


I ran Rotella T6 5w40 diesel oil in the 96 since it had over 230k miles on it.


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I Watched that video. WOW ! If diesel fuel will clean out that nasty mess, I feel certain that it will do wonders for me. thank you, T4R2014

I have heard of Marvel Mystery Oil but I have never used it. After viewing many youtube videos, I'm convinced that it is an excellent product. So, I think the safest method to solve my problem is to 1st use diesel fuel as an over night soak, drain it out and then fill with 5W-30 and a new Toyota oil filter AND add Marvel Mystery oil. If idiot light goes out, I'll run it under a light load and see what happens.

What brand of oil filter did you put on? You’ve never mentioned. I would swap it for a Toyota filter before doing any of the procedures above. You said in another post that the oil light was not on before you did an oil change, therefore I would suspect it’s related to the oil change you did.
 
What brand of oil filter did you put on? You’ve never mentioned. I would swap it for a Toyota filter before doing any of the procedures above. You said in another post that the oil light was not on before you did an oil change, therefore I would suspect it’s related to the oil change you did.


Truth to tell, I've forgotten the brand name of the filter. I bought it at a Mexican Auto Zone.
I've owned 2 other T4R's and I never encountered any problems using whatever the auto stores had that fit.
Lesson learned. I'll never do THAT again. Genuine Toyota oil filter from now on.
It's entirely possible that the previous Mexican owner did something to this vehicle just to sell it. Maybe he had a problem with the oil light coming on and he put in a super light oil??? Then when I bought it, one of the 1st things I did was change oil and filter to a 10w-40 (thinking that the heavier oil would help me get passed the CA smog test). In any event, when I change the oil AGAIN, I'll be using 5W-30 as recommended by OEM.

PS: when I bought it, I did not have Mexican insurance, and I dared not drive it. In Mexico, even a fender bender will result in an arrest if no Mexican insurance. I've heard horror stories about Mexican jails. During the test drive a Mexican friend drove it for me.
While in the storage lot, I changed the plugs, new battery, new air filter, cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner, oil and filter change, new PCV, drained the radiator and put in fresh coolant. Then when I got insurance and 1st drove it, it broke down. Battery was NOT being recharged. Bad alternator.
 
Truth to tell, I've forgotten the brand name of the filter. I bought it at a Mexican Auto Zone.
I've owned 2 other T4R's and I never encountered any problems using whatever the auto stores had that fit.
Lesson learned. I'll never do THAT again. Genuine Toyota oil filter from now on.
It's entirely possible that the previous Mexican owner did something to this vehicle just to sell it. Maybe he had a problem with the oil light coming on and he put in a super light oil??? Then when I bought it, one of the 1st things I did was change oil and filter to a 10w-40 (thinking that the heavier oil would help me get passed the CA smog test). In any event, when I change the oil AGAIN, I'll be using 5W-30 as recommended by OEM.

PS: when I bought it, I did not have Mexican insurance, and I dared not drive it. In Mexico, even a fender bender will result in an arrest if no Mexican insurance. I've heard horror stories about Mexican jails. During the test drive a Mexican friend drove it for me.
While in the storage lot, I changed the plugs, new battery, new air filter, cleaned the MAF with CRC MAF cleaner, oil and filter change, new PCV, drained the radiator and put in fresh coolant. Then when I got insurance and 1st drove it, it broke down. Battery was NOT being recharged. Bad alternator.

Even the cheapest filter should not cause a light.. otherwise anyone not on T4R.org would need to replace their engine. 10W40 is a factory spec for this engine in Australia. Not the problem. These engines are tough and do not really care about these minuscule details.
 
For the record I’ve never used a OEM oil filter in any brand vehicle I bought.

Since my first 4Runner I’ve used FL400S Motorcraft filters from Walmart on my Saturn and 4Runner.


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Being in Mexico see if you can find Mobil 1 High Mileage in the 10w-30 or 40 weight, or even Rotella T6. All will slowly clean the inside of the engine.

Also may want to use a little Marvel Mystery oil in the crankcase if you can’t find any of the three above.
I personally use both: 4qts of T6 5w40 + 1qt of MMO. Works phenomenal over long durations. Highly recommend, made my valve train look damn near new (I could've swore it even removed some of the orange varnish)
Edit: should be mentioned MMO will bring your oil down from 40 to roughly 30 weight, when used like this. Believe it even says so on the back of the bottle. It's nothing but detergents suspended in 5 weight oil
 
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Just a picture.
6457835f1455430b70438a72ec5f6926.jpg

My collection of BG’s 109 product.


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I personally use both: 4qts of T6 5w40 + 1qt of MMO. Works phenomenal over long durations. Highly recommend, made my valve train look damn near new (I could've swore it even removed some of the orange varnish)
Edit: should be mentioned MMO will bring your oil down from 40 to roughly 30 weight, when used like this. Believe it even says so on the back of the bottle. It's nothing but detergents suspended in 5 weight oil

I used to think MMO was snake oil until my neighbor in Virginia a couple of years ago had a S10 V6 that had a terrible rod knock and the engine drank oil. Poured 1/2 bottle in the engine after an oil change and after about six months later the engine stopped knocking as well as drinking oil. He got another 45,000 miles or so out of it until the transmission bit the dust. It isn’t a cure all but can be helpful in the right application.

T6, as well as the aforementioned Mobil oils as well as Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum, have been good, slow, engine cleaners for me.
 
I personally use both: 4qts of T6 5w40 + 1qt of MMO. Works phenomenal over long durations. Highly recommend, made my valve train look damn near new (I could've swore it even removed some of the orange varnish)
Edit: should be mentioned MMO will bring your oil down from 40 to roughly 30 weight, when used like this. Believe it even says so on the back of the bottle. It's nothing but detergents suspended in 5 weight oil

I used to think MMO was snake oil until my neighbor in Virginia a couple of years ago had a S10 V6 that had a terrible rod knock and the engine drank oil. Poured 1/2 bottle in the engine after an oil change and after about six months later the engine stopped knocking as well as drinking oil. He got another 45,000 miles or so out of it until the transmission bit the dust. It isn’t a cure all but can be helpful in the right application.

T6, as well as the aforementioned Mobil oils as well as Pennzoil Ultra and Platinum, have been good, slow, engine cleaners for me.

Is Marvel Mystery Oil only for the long term OR does it begin to clean engine , especially the screen on the oil pick-up tube, quickly.

2nd question: Since I am getting the oil light only at IDLE, but not at 800 RPMS and up, would driving the T4R do damage to engine ?
 
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