Best "good-enough" shocks for 890s?

Sitting here drinking coffee I had a thought come to me that may be relevant to people who read this thread in the future perhaps trying to decide on a suspension system.

I’ve never personally bought the super high end shocks on anything. Truck, car, snowmobile etc. but I’ve always had the better than average equipment.

One thing we tan into on snowmobiles for a long time was everyone wanting to run fox air shocks. Neat idea, but a bear to manage spring rates due to the extremely progressive nature of an air sprung shock, not to mention highly temperature sensitive. It was always hard to dial in. Either way too much rate for the pogo stick effect, or to little and it was boaty squishy city.

Another friend of mine spends a hilariously large sum regularly (well, technically expenses since he has a recreational vehicle business, but the money is never free…..) on shocks for sleds. The last super boojie set of raptors were so dang soft, it was like driving a jet ski around. Almost hard to ride really. Maybe about 10 years ago another friend has a fancy zbros setup. I forget if they were Elkas or what kind, but It was like riding on a half aired up raft. Super soggy, no confidence, and it wanted to drive into every tree well there was. Again, super Gucci with far too little rate and control.

Why does any of this even matter and what do sleds have to do with 4runners….. Rate is rate, and ride height is ride height.

I think there are applications that a custom valved system can absolutely dominate when the system is tuned properly especially in long travel systems. In a “longer” than stock travel system you have more head (travelroom to work with prior to being maxed out on travel.

The calling card of high end suspension systems seems to be comfort and ride quality which usually equates into lower rates to get there. The side effect of all that in my observations tends to be a very soft ride like arrangement that tends to bottom out very quickly when used in a stockish travel configuration.

I know that the purists will argue that digressive systems aren’t as good as a linear or progressive system in an all out application, and I’ll agree with them there. But I would argue assuming on stockish geometry/travel without going into the realm of long travel anything regardless of the vehicle type, that digressive fit the bill perfectly.

If you go look at any big travel systems whether it’s on a Can-Am or a trophy truck, the one commonality that seems to always be the case is multiple spring rates in their spring stacks. Sure in a multi rate system 2 foot long setup you can do all kinds of cool things. Bit in a single rate rather stockish system it’s too easy to go to far.

I’ve seen several king equipped rigs around town and it’s always the same. Just watch them go through an intersection or go around a corner. They always eat up half of the travel going through a storm gutter, or look like they’re going to roll over around a corner. Obviously I don’t know the full set up, they could have swaybar‘s unhooked, and not enough rate. Just a very casual observation that I’ve seen probably four or five times in the last year now while gassing up my work truck at the busiest intersection on town.

Short story long, I think it’s really important to evaluate what you’re trying to accomplish and what matters most. Obviously those blue shocks are absolutely sexy as hell. I think it’s just important to understand what you’re getting into so that you hopefully don’t end up disappointed or have a lot of drama to get them calibrated properly. It seems like the industry is trending toward all of this super off-road capable stuff that gets tuned for a street drive to maintain compliance on speed bumps which is a bit silly in my opinion. I realize that’s where 99% of the vehicles will live always, but then everybody gets stuck in that mindset.

I’ve never personally valved or rebuilt a set of shocks ever in my life, but I do understand the system, how it works, and how they’re built. If you’re in a high-performance application with a lot of travel, I think the custom systems make all the sense in the world assuming you’re willing to spend the time to get them correct. You’ll probably want more than one set of shocks around to do that well unless you can valve them yourself.

If you’re looking for a one and done OEM level of execution and for them to last a long time, I think some of the custom valved systems out there are not what a guy needs.

Look at the Ford raptor. I love seeing all these raptors around town and I highly doubt any of those shocks are getting service on the interval they’re supposed to be at. Look it up, you’ll be very surprised when you see what the interval is. Lots of guys stating online that they had low charge pressures at the 15-20k mile mark…..

Just some food for thought on a trip deep into the weeds.


Really my main issue is that, to me, all of the shocks I've tried for 3rd gens are horrible. They all handle like like sports cars to me.

And when I say sports car, I mean they travel very little, they're extremely firm, and keep the wheels planted hardcore. Where is, to me, off-road trucks should be very plush and cushiony. I mean if you're going off road around trails you're going to be hitting a lot of bumps and uneven terrain, those bumps should not feel like concrete, I mean it's just not even enjoyable...

I specifically bought the Kings because everybody said that they were the best ride, and at this point I wasn't necessarily looking for the best but just looking for something that wasn't shit.

Tundra 5100 are entirely too soft
Third gen 5100s are too firm and also too short
Nitro chargers are way too firm
And so far my rear kings are the stiffest shocks I've ever felt.

Now the front kings are a different story, they actually feel pretty good and I think they would be perfect if I had 550 lb coils versus 600, or just some additional weight I guess.

But the rear shocks? I mean good God. I had gone by a few places that sold King shocks because I was curious if they had ever encountered them on a third gen 4Runner. I did find a shop where the guy had worked on one before although it had been many months. He actually walked out with me and jumped up on the rear bumper to shake the truck up and down and immediately was disgusted. "These are stiff as f***, holy shit" where the words that came out of his mouth.

And I can't remember if anyone asked, but I did find a place that let out some of the nitrogen and as far as we could tell it made absolutely no difference.

See when the front Kings hit a bump or drop into a hole or something like that it's firm but is cushioned, it's almost perfect honestly. When the rear wheels hit anything or drop into a hole I mean it's literally like a bomb going off. BAM.

There is a parking lot close to my house that has a speed bump that is laid out diagonally, as in your front right wheel will go over it completely before the left one touches it. It's actually kind of fun because each wheel walks over at one at a time... So with the front, they actually do their thing and there's very little body movement... But as soon as the rears make contact it immediately slams the truck over to one side. I mean I'm not kidding when I say they have no give.

The best way I can describe it is to imagine that you only had a half inch of travel, and as soon as you used up that entire half of an inch you just slammed into the frame. It's stiff as ****.
 
Ya know, dumb question, but I’m going to ask. How much weight do you have in the rig on a regular basis? The 2906 coils might be a better fit than the 2890 you currently have.

Here’s the reason I ask. I always have lifetime rotomold heavy ass cooler with ice, full of water, beer and nonsense. Sometimes the big one even, recovery gear with a shovel, tire repair, all kinds of other stuff, xbull boards, a receiver hitch recovery, Arb twin portable, a full size Kanati 265/75 spare in the stock location, clothes, rifles and fishing poles and almost always 2 adults and 3 kids, and a dog these days……. I’ve never ever even felt the slightest need for the 2890 coil. My 2906 has always been more than enough spring rate and ride height. The front might be .25” higher, if even that. There’s never any hint of sag at all. I can go jump on the back of the rig and it still supports it well.

I have a feeling you might have the wrong coils for the job. Spring rate and ride heights are the major force in the equation. The shocks job is to dampen, not providing the lion share of the spring rate or ride height.
 
Really my main issue is that, to me, all of the shocks I've tried for 3rd gens are horrible. They all handle like like sports cars to me.

And when I say sports car, I mean they travel very little, they're extremely firm, and keep the wheels planted hardcore. Where is, to me, off-road trucks should be very plush and cushiony. I mean if you're going off road around trails you're going to be hitting a lot of bumps and uneven terrain, those bumps should not feel like concrete, I mean it's just not even enjoyable...

I specifically bought the Kings because everybody said that they were the best ride, and at this point I wasn't necessarily looking for the best but just looking for something that wasn't shit.

Tundra 5100 are entirely too soft
Third gen 5100s are too firm and also too short
Nitro chargers are way too firm
And so far my rear kings are the stiffest shocks I've ever felt.

Now the front kings are a different story, they actually feel pretty good and I think they would be perfect if I had 550 lb coils versus 600, or just some additional weight I guess.

But the rear shocks? I mean good God. I had gone by a few places that sold King shocks because I was curious if they had ever encountered them on a third gen 4Runner. I did find a shop where the guy had worked on one before although it had been many months. He actually walked out with me and jumped up on the rear bumper to shake the truck up and down and immediately was disgusted. "These are stiff as f***, holy shit" where the words that came out of his mouth.

And I can't remember if anyone asked, but I did find a place that let out some of the nitrogen and as far as we could tell it made absolutely no difference.

See when the front Kings hit a bump or drop into a hole or something like that it's firm but is cushioned, it's almost perfect honestly. When the rear wheels hit anything or drop into a hole I mean it's literally like a bomb going off. BAM.

There is a parking lot close to my house that has a speed bump that is laid out diagonally, as in your front right wheel will go over it completely before the left one touches it. It's actually kind of fun because each wheel walks over at one at a time... So with the front, they actually do their thing and there's very little body movement... But as soon as the rears make contact it immediately slams the truck over to one side. I mean I'm not kidding when I say they have no give.

The best way I can describe it is to imagine that you only had a half inch of travel, and as soon as you used up that entire half of an inch you just slammed into the frame. It's stiff as ****.

Try loosening and re-torqing all the rear arm bushings and the panhard bushings at ride height. And the rear becomes skippy without adjusting the panhard bar to pull it back in line. Also try test driving it with the rear sway bar removed and see if it feels different. Do you have sway/link poly bushings? They really push the wheels down hard in my experience from stiffening the twist rate like a sports car. And the end link length affects the leverage on it too.
 
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I like the 890s better than 906. They 890 are less stiff. I started with 906, then 906 + 10mm spacers, then 890, then 890 + 10mm spacers because I like having about 1" of rake unloaded. I have the heavy cooler, compressor, etc in the back too. Plus spare tire, towbar.

It is harsh at slow speed though, like the 0.5" of travel thing mentioned. But soaks it up fine at speed, stuff that you'd cringe at the thought of hitting with stock setup. So it's almost opposite of stock. But that's most of the kind of driving I do around here.
 
I don’t know what to tell you then. The guys at wheelers strongly advised against anything heavier than the 2906 when I picked up my setup. They said ride quality would suffer terribly.
 
Try loosening and re-torqing all the rear arm bushings and the panhard bushings at ride height. And the rear becomes skippy without adjusting the panhard bar to pull it back in line. Also try test driving it with the rear sway bar removed and see if it feels different. Do you have sway/link poly bushings? They really push the wheels down hard in my experience from stiffening the twist rate like a sports car. And the end link length affects the leverage on it too.

I've got the panhard bar just about perfectly straight thanks to e dude's (I always forget his name) panhard bar adjustment kit. As for the rear sway bar, it's whatever comes on stock second gen... Front Links I think. Basically the rear sway bar is level from what I can tell, it never gets pulled too tight. As for the front, while I'm thinking of it, I don't have any sway bar currently and it actually rides pretty good.

I'll have to check out that re-torquing. What does that seem to do? Do things get like stuck or something? I'm still pretty sure that it's just the shocks though because when I had those rear tundra 5100s they were just too soft. She would bought him out pretty easily on certain bumps and there was a lot of travel which was nice it just needed to be a bit firmer.

I don’t know what to tell you then. The guys at wheelers strongly advised against anything heavier than the 2906 when I picked up my setup. They said ride quality would suffer terribly.

Say what? I've got 890s
:couch2:
 
I've got the panhard bar just about perfectly straight thanks to e dude's (I always forget his name) panhard bar adjustment kit. As for the rear sway bar, it's whatever comes on stock second gen... Front Links I think. Basically the rear sway bar is level from what I can tell, it never gets pulled too tight. As for the front, while I'm thinking of it, I don't have any sway bar currently and it actually rides pretty good.

I'll have to check out that re-torquing. What does that seem to do? Do things get like stuck or something? I'm still pretty sure that it's just the shocks though because when I had those rear tundra 5100s they were just too soft. She would bought him out pretty easily on certain bumps and there was a lot of travel which was nice it just needed to be a bit firmer.



Say what? I've got 890s
:couch2:

The bushing can bind up, like when you do front shocks and have to fight the UCA bushing with a bottle jack or whatever. I loosen them and the retorque when back on the ground, then you dont have to fight it and the bushing preload is at the new height. If the rears are over torqued or bushing were replaced and it got torqued at a different ride height it might bind them up a bit. Its just a quick easy thing to try before trying different shocks.

I suppose another quick thing to try is greasing the prop shaft and make sure the slip joint isn't locked up or something. You know basically check everything in the rear is moving freely as it should before spending more on the shocks.
 
I don’t know what to tell you then. The guys at wheelers strongly advised against anything heavier than the 2906 when I picked up my setup. They said ride quality would suffer terribly.

I thought 890s are taller and softer than 906. It's 891 that are taller and stiffer. I seem to remember some confusion with them changing the numbers around a few years ago though. 890s have been a staple of 3" lifts for ages. 906 is 2" lift. 891 is for constant load like swingout bumper.
 
E-rated tires are brutal at low speed if not aired down. At 40psi it feels like no suspension at all unless driving at speed on the road. 20-30 feels totally different but you cant drive on the road like that. Even 32psi is on the edge of where you start overheating E tires on the road.
 
I've got the panhard bar just about perfectly straight thanks to e dude's (I always forget his name) panhard bar adjustment kit. As for the rear sway bar, it's whatever comes on stock second gen... Front Links I think. Basically the rear sway bar is level from what I can tell, it never gets pulled too tight. As for the front, while I'm thinking of it, I don't have any sway bar currently and it actually rides pretty good.

I'll have to check out that re-torquing. What does that seem to do? Do things get like stuck or something? I'm still pretty sure that it's just the shocks though because when I had those rear tundra 5100s they were just too soft. She would bought him out pretty easily on certain bumps and there was a lot of travel which was nice it just needed to be a bit firmer.



Say what? I've got 890s
:couch2:


That’s what wheelers told me. We ran through all 3 spring combinations. The guy I spoke to, Steve if I remember right, seemed super knowledgeable. And he strongly advise anything against their lowest entry which was the 2906. He said that unless you had a lot of weight like steel bumpers extra gear tents expedition time stuff he said that he could not recommend those springs because they would just be uncomfortable to live without a daily basis. I told him I didn’t care how it daily that I was looking for pure off-road performance, and he still felt that the entry level spring was the correct one.

I
 
E-rated tires are brutal at low speed if not aired down. At 40psi it feels like no suspension at all unless driving at speed on the road. 20-30 feels totally different but you cant drive on the road like that. Even 32psi is on the edge of where you start overheating E tires on the road.


I’ve yet to get my tires hot doing 60-65 mph at 20 psi. I try to keep it under 60 mph.

I check them religiously, they’ve never been warm even a little bit yet.

I obviously can’t speak to any other tire situation is, but these Kanatis have been pretty great against heat.

You got to air those tires down for sure to do anything with them otherwise the traction and the ride quality suffers tremendously. I picked up a portable viair portable 400p rv compressor just to keep my truck since I like having portable air in my 4runner so much. It’s a little slower than the big twin ARB. I still go from 20 to 40 psi in about 3 minutes though. For wheeling airing down just simply cannot be beat. It changes the experience entirely in my opinion.

But yeah, unless you’re trashing on the tires, I don’t know if I would recommend an E tire. I think unless you’re doing a lot of regular off-roadin, just get a C rated tire and take it a little bit easier while you’re Aired down also.
 
d4f086e69e9e210292aaf1a609151a6c.jpg

From the ARB application guide.
 
I’ve yet to get my tires hot doing 60-65 mph at 20 psi. I try to keep it under 60 mph.

I check them religiously, they’ve never been warm even a little bit yet.

I obviously can’t speak to any other tire situation is, but these Kanatis have been pretty great against heat.

You got to air those tires down for sure to do anything with them otherwise the traction and the ride quality suffers tremendously. I picked up a portable viair portable 400p rv compressor just to keep my truck since I like having portable air in my 4runner so much. It’s a little slower than the big twin ARB. I still go from 20 to 40 psi in about 3 minutes though. For wheeling airing down just simply cannot be beat. It changes the experience entirely in my opinion.

But yeah, unless you’re trashing on the tires, I don’t know if I would recommend an E tire. I think unless you’re doing a lot of regular off-roadin, just get a C rated tire and take it a little bit easier while you’re Aired down also.

I have the same VIAIR it's great. According to this 44psi in E tires is equivalent to 32psi in a P tires. But it feels much worse driving on anything other than smooth pavement with E tires at 44 psi. I seem to get LESS traction on road under 40psi.

LT tires need more air pressure.
 
I have Kings in the front of my 98, and the PO installed spacers in the back and some Skyjacker or other generic white can shock. I installed the Toytec Superflex springs and they were too tall and the spring rate was too low and it made the Runner not sit level and it was too floppy even with both anti-roll bars connected.

I replaced the Toytec springs with OME 2906 springs and OME 60073 shocks and it's worlds better and I didn't have to drop a grand. I also have extended anti-roll bar links, SCS F5 (as light as they come), wheels and D rated Nittos, so my unsprung weight is also helping. This combo works great and I have yet to bottom out either the front or rear.
 
I have the same VIAIR it's great. According to this 44psi in E tires is equivalent to 32psi in a P tires. But it feels much worse driving on anything other than smooth pavement with E tires at 44 psi. I seem to get LESS traction on road under 40psi.

LT tires need more air pressure.


I haven’t noticed a traction difference on the road above 35psi. What I do notice though is the vehicle struggles to get to above 70mph foe the interstate when 35 or below. 36 psi and things start working right at high speed. 38 it gets happy. 40psi makes it feel practically normal. Relative to a stockish tire.

Now, it’s obvious the rig has LTE tires when I drive it. I wish someone made an aggressive AT/MT tire in C, 3ply side wall, and 3PMSF rating. That combo just seems to be such a unicorn. Man that would be awesome. It’d be like adding 20 horsepower at least to the feel of it.

Maybe I should contact the tire companies. I made some suggestions to On X and they incorporated them in the last update. [emoji16]
 
I haven’t noticed a traction difference on the road above 35psi. What I do notice though is the vehicle struggles to get to above 70mph foe the interstate when 35 or below. 36 psi and things start working right at high speed. 38 it gets happy. 40psi makes it feel practically normal. Relative to a stockish tire.

Now, it’s obvious the rig has LTE tires when I drive it. I wish someone made an aggressive AT/MT tire in C, 3ply side wall, and 3PMSF rating. That combo just seems to be such a unicorn. Man that would be awesome. It’d be like adding 20 horsepower at least to the feel of it.

Maybe I should contact the tire companies. I made some suggestions to On X and they incorporated them in the last update. [emoji16]

Duratracs are available in C for 265/75/16. I dont think there's any options for 285 unless you go to 17" wheels. I have fairly worn out KO2s and the tires squeel under about 38 psi, it's counter-intuitive but I'm guessing there's not enough weight on them from the 4runner to grip properly. But over 40psi they start to get harsh and feel sort of "glidy" if you know what I mean and I don't quite trust them. There seems to be a pretty narrow sweet spot for the psi.
 
Best "good-enough" shocks for 890s?

Duratracs are available in C for 265/75/16. I dont think there's any options for 285 unless you go to 17" wheels. I have fairly worn out KO2s and the tires squeel under about 38 psi, it's counter-intuitive but I'm guessing there's not enough weight on them from the 4runner to grip properly. But over 40psi they start to get harsh and feel sort of "glidy" if you know what I mean and I don't quite trust them. There seems to be a pretty narrow sweet spot for the psi.


The Dura track would be perfect if it was a three ply sidewall…… trust me, I checked, like read the side of the tire checked.

In fact, the tires I currently have really look like a Duratrac knock off design.

I agree what you’re saying about the sweet spot, it does seem to be a pretty narrow window. I’m sure it totally has to do with the fact that those tires are not really designed for a vehicle this light.
 
The Dura track would be perfect if it was a three ply sidewall…… trust me, I checked, like read the side of the tire checked.

In fact, the tires I currently have really look like a Duratrac knock off design.

I agree what you’re saying about the sweet spot, it does seem to be a pretty narrow window. I’m sure it totally has to do with the fact that those tires are not really designed for a vehicle this light.

By 3-ply you mean SL rated? The Wildpeaks are available in SL. Duratracs 265s come in C which is supposed to be 6-ply equivalent (product 312018027). And E 10-ply equivalent (product 312034142). Dunno how much difference would be felt between C and E it seems to be personal perception. I'll tell you those E KO2s are damn indestructible and the tread lasts for ages. They get progressively more pretty terrible the wet conditioned though, to the point I use 4hi when it rains hard.
 
By 3-ply you mean SL rated? The Wildpeaks are available in SL. Duratracs 265s come in C which is supposed to be 6-ply equivalent (product 312018027). And E 10-ply equivalent (product 312034142). Dunno how much difference would be felt between C and E it seems to be personal perception. I'll tell you those E KO2s are damn indestructible and the tread lasts for ages. They get progressively more pretty terrible the wet conditioned though, to the point I use 4hi when it rains hard.


No no no. The sidewall plies. Even the BF Goodrich KO2s only come in a 2 ply sidewall in load C. You have to step up to a load D or E for the 3 ply sidewall.

SL rated tires are for the pavement queens. Damn I hate the SL rated tires on my work tundra truck. They’re great for fuel economy and all, but it feels like they are just looking for a place to go flat.
 

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