jross20
New member
Timmy to the rescue!!! Man this is much more my speed, haha. Il go ahead and order that grommet.
Will there be any downside from drilling a little hole through that plastic material? Instead of just having the little x cut?
Best options for routing wires through firewall
- Thread starter Doc3g
- Start date
Timmy to the rescue!!! Man this is much more my speed, haha. Il go ahead and order that grommet.
Will there be any downside from drilling a little hole through that plastic material? Instead of just having the little x cut?
Thanks for the video, that looks like a great spot too. I have a 99' SR5 and that entire area is covered with firewall insulation (see pic), which leaves me with a couple of question
- do you know if there is still a grommet in the 99's?
- if there is, is there any harm in removing the insulation in that area for the grommet? (ie, is there something inherently different that makes the 99+ models run hotter in that area?)
- Will the temps in that area be significantly hotter? Sorry about being a newb but I don't know how hot it actually gets in there and my wire says it's rated to 150 C
Thanks!
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mtbtim
Elite Member
You could drill a hole. I just took the path of least resistance and cut an X with a utility blade.
mtbtim
Elite Member
You should probably only remove as much insulation as you need too. I think it's to reduce heat transfer as well as provide some sound deadening. I don't know if the 99 has that same grommet hole. If it doesn't, just do what the other guys suggested and drill your own hole with a hole saw.
So I found that there is a grommet behind the insulation. I'm still considering drilling a hole because the grommet on my truck would pretty much come all the way out and touch the engine unless I cut it down some.
Honestly, I wish there was a way to bring the wires in directly behind the radio, which is where I want them ultimately.
So, I'm opening this up for one more minute before I start hacking away at this. I tore the whole dash apart to see if there was any way to bring a 22 pin weatherpack connector into the passenger side. I've decided to use the weatherpack for organization and because I feel it is simply more watertight than going the grommet route. I found a spot where it would fit but the problem is I'm not entirely sure where this spot would exit exactly into the engine bay.
This image is looking behind the passenger side airbag
<a href="https://imgur.com/Pndjld0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Pndjld0l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Another option is the passenger footwell, but again, I don't really know where this would exit and it looks like it might not even be possible b/c it would be @ the wheel well
<a href="https://imgur.com/uWFukTC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uWFukTCl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
I've relocated the cruise and have a plan for my platforms, plus a worst-case scenario plan where I will run the harness back to the driver side and put the weatherpack next to the factory grommet
<a href="https://imgur.com/WFypcp2"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/WFypcp2l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
The small platform will hold two breakers, while the larger platform will hold the fuse blocks, grounding blocks, relays, etc.
This image is looking behind the passenger side airbag
<a href="https://imgur.com/Pndjld0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Pndjld0l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
Another option is the passenger footwell, but again, I don't really know where this would exit and it looks like it might not even be possible b/c it would be @ the wheel well
<a href="https://imgur.com/uWFukTC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/uWFukTCl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
I've relocated the cruise and have a plan for my platforms, plus a worst-case scenario plan where I will run the harness back to the driver side and put the weatherpack next to the factory grommet
<a href="https://imgur.com/WFypcp2"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/WFypcp2l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
The small platform will hold two breakers, while the larger platform will hold the fuse blocks, grounding blocks, relays, etc.
I agree, ripcord's platform was awesome and I even looked at the machine he used to cut it but soon realized it was several thousand dollars, lol. One thing I did notice though is that on his 2002 at least, the driver's side bay is not as crowded. I took a picture of his bay before the mod vs my bay and you can see there is significantly more room to clear the hood with a platform in that location. If I had more clearance I probably could work something to fit my setup in that space, but there is zero chance of that happening on my 99.
Here is his engine bay before the platform
<a href="https://imgur.com/J5EcAB0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/J5EcAB0l.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
vs my 99
<a href="https://imgur.com/jUFGLAr"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jUFGLArl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
jross20
New member
Ah yeah i wish there was another option... I've tried to come up with some solutions...but there isn't anywhere to mount it that I can figure out ...haha
Perhaps under the dash ....?
cblock406
Member
It will fit, mine looks just like yours, but you seem intent on using the passenger side.
You could probably make another mount for your relays on top of the factory fuse box, or make a bracket to mount them in the fender out of site. Not sure what I’ll do when I get to that point.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3538657-post172.html
You could probably make another mount for your relays on top of the factory fuse box, or make a bracket to mount them in the fender out of site. Not sure what I’ll do when I get to that point.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3538657-post172.html
I've still considered trying it but I have a few issues:
1. With just the bluesea box alone, it still makes contact with the hood and it sure looks like it's bowing. I do have my insulation on my hood still and I notice that you don't, so perhaps if I cut the insulation in that spot it would close.
2. I've got two fuseblocks that I plan on running (two separate circuits) so I would have to use the entire board space for the fuseblocks (assuming I could get the hood to close) which means the breakers, relays, etc would all have to be mounted elsewhere. I didn't originally like the idea of mounting them to the firewall but I need to take a peek inside the fender like you mentioned and see if I think that would look like a clean installation
3. I'll be 100% honest, I don't know what the black box is underneath the proposed panel site (I'm assuming it has something to do w/ the AC) but I do notice that it has a green service cap on it and I am wondering if it would need to be accessed if I needed to have the A/C serviced? One of the goals of my wiring setup is to have things readily accessible and if I install the tray on the passenger side, it won't interfere w/ anything.
I literally tore my entire dash apart, the only viable place would be to mount the computer in the glovebox and use that area where the computer normally sits behind the airbag. I considered it except that I don't want to lose the bulk of my glovebox storage.
This is how I did mine:
Yeah, that looks nice and is likely where I'll be coming in with my weatherpack. How has the weatherpack held up? Also, did you put the pins in the female side? I see conflicting info on which side the pins and barrels actually go into.
I didnt know, my male terminals are in the female part (piece mounted to the firewall), and the female terminals are on the male part (the piece that screws on). Seems to be all good, if its wrong...its not getting changed now
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4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
jross20
New member
That's what I did:
Oh wow, wait did you post that earlier?
I need I need to go to sleep... Haha
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