Best way to remove exhaust bolts?

Robb235

Senior Member
I need to temporarily remove a section of my exhaust shown in the picture below. It's the bolts on the 3-bolt exhaust flange right before the catalytic converter. I soaked the area in PB Blaster for a couple hours, then put a 12 point 14mm socket on it. Even with a breaker bar, I couldn't break it loose. The socket keeps slipping. I tried a 9/16" on it as well, but it slipped too. What next? Do I need an impact gun?

esu6esup.jpg
 
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Good luck.

I've had to cut them off before.

Try a wrench, using another wrench as a lever. That might work.
 
try using a 6 point 14mm socket.

12 point sockets are truly worthless except on 12 sided bolts.

Really? I've always had better results with 12 point sockets when it come to grip. I'll go pick up a deep well 6 point while those bolts soak in PB Blaster a little while longer.
 
Use a propane torch for plumbing and heat the nuts until they smoke. That will expand the nuts and break the rust bond. They should come off easier then

What he said. Use only a 6 point unless you want to round off the nuts.
 
You sure? It doesn't appear welded to me...

It's a stud and a nut on the bottom. I don't see a nut on top so I assume the stud threads into the flange on the cross-over.

96AFjHG.png
HeiPYb4.png


Actually, that looks like a Cali./two-cat exhaust, but same thing:
4NLjvRK.png
93nIsiN.png


The nuts are 90179-10070 at the dealer, p/n for the stud is shown.
 
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It's a stud and a nut on the bottom. I don't see a nut on top so I assume the stud threads into the flange on the cross-over.

96AFjHG.png
HeiPYb4.png


Actually, that looks like a Cali./two-cat exhaust, but same thing:
4NLjvRK.png
93nIsiN.png


The nuts are 90179-10070 at the dealer, p/n for the stud is shown.

Thanks [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]. Mine actually is the Cali emissions type. All three nuts are completely rounded off now. Now I gotta figure out how to proceed from here.
 
Thanks [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]. Mine actually is the Cali emissions type. All three nuts are completely rounded off now. Now I gotta figure out how to proceed from here.
Sounds like a sawzall will be your best bet.
 
I would have drove it till they were hot, then pb blaster then 6 point, the 6 point didnt round them off the 12 point probably did, never heard anyone say a 12 point was better. hmmm
 
I would have drove it till they were hot, then pb blaster then 6 point, the 6 point didnt round them off the 12 point probably did, never heard anyone say a 12 point was better. hmmm

6 point for whatever reason rounded off a lot a quicker than the 12 point. I only used the 12 point on one nut, and the 6 point on the other two. 6 point rounded them off almost immediately. For some reason I've always had better luck with 12 point sockets?
 
12 points are no no for breaking nuts off. 6 point is much better contact and less chance for slip/rounded off the ends.
 
How about a pair of vice grips now that you've already rounded them?

It's dark outside, so I'll have to screw around with this another time. With the front diff and all being in the way, I don't believe vice grips will fit. I'm thinking my best bet may be to put a cutting wheel on my Dremel and cut the nuts off? Not really sure how to get the studs out. Drill them out?
 
It's dark outside, so I'll have to screw around with this another time. With the front diff and all being in the way, I don't believe vice grips will fit. I'm thinking my best bet may be to put a cutting wheel on my Dremel and cut the nuts off? Not really sure how to get the studs out. Drill them out?

Yeah, no way to use a Sawzall. I'd go with the Dremel, then attempt heat and Vice-Grips on the stud. That will probably fail, so then it's left-hand drill bits on the stud, and then re-tap. Not gonna be fun in that location.
 
I did my mini header recently. My cocktail was drive home from work and PB blast, repeat for 5 days. Then a 6 point impact socket (tighter tolerance reduces rounding) along with a bunch of extensions connected to get to my Y-pipe ( 4 cyl only two nuts can be accessed from wheel well) then add a 18" breaker bar and TA DA! Did that cocktail for all the nuts and did not round one nut or stud.

But now that you have rounded them. You could get s nice set of but/ bolt extractor sockets. I have had this set for over 10 years and have only had to use them once. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-10-p...p-00952166000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
 
Yeah, no way to use a Sawzall. I'd go with the Dremel, then attempt heat and Vice-Grips on the stud. That will probably fail, so then it's left-hand drill bits on the stud, and then re-tap. Not gonna be fun in that location.

Instead of using the nut & stud combo, any reason I couldn't / shouldn't use a flat washer, lock washer, bolt, and nut combo, like my MS Paint diagram?

ada5y5yz.jpg
 
Instead of using the nut & stud combo, any reason I couldn't / shouldn't use a flat washer, lock washer, bolt, and nut combo, like my MS Paint diagram?

ada5y5yz.jpg

No objection from me. Might be hard to hold that nut on top, where as the other set up is all from the bottom, that's all.
 
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